Running coolant lines along the driver side by the strut tower.
Perrin intercooler coupler cut to fit.
LHT 70mm throttle body port matched, S-tube is completely ported as well on the throttle body side and SC unit side.
Still need to gut the airbox.
Need to remove that K&N sticker
Had to use that same Fuel Rail Reg spacer with my setup as well. LMK how that traction bar bolts in, works. I may need to go that route with mine, as I can assume Im prob gonna have traction issue with my setups full potential. Exhaust work is awesome as well. Keep at it.
Had to use that same Fuel Rail Reg spacer with my setup as well. LMK how that traction bar bolts in, works. I may need to go that route with mine, as I can assume Im prob gonna have traction issue with my setups full potential. Exhaust work is awesome as well. Keep at it.
ESP.net is in Olympia Washington which is a i think a 1.5hr drive from me and I will pay them a personal visit. I'll most likely purchase a package deal to keep the price low and if anything i'll post up on my build thread. I'm going to try to price out a full set traction bar, front and rear strut bar but we'll see I haven't made up my mind yet.
Fuel Tuck'd dot com fuel filter tucked kit installed just missing fitting to fuel rail.
Custom IAT spacer and gasket
88-91 Mishimoto hose kit and heater hose used to refresh all lines.
Can't wait to see your new set-up bro. Your track'd out wagon with a K-swap is going to be smooth and an instant 200hp+ upgrade. I love them wheels you got too. We will definitely meet up once were both done or at a certain point with our builds once again...
Finally got that fuel rail fitting.
Initially prior to install S-tube fitment wasn't correct. S-tube was hitting manifold intercooler end cap.
Got a spacer custom fab'd for s-tube fitment.
As you can see S-tube fitment is not an issue.
Got that AEM water/meter kit nozzle and line finally hooked up. Needed to have that nozzle installed prior to throttle body.
AEM water/meth kit line routing to fire wall.
Got that prismatic powders in "New York Yellow" for my Y8 VC to mimic that Spoon Sports yellow.
New York yellow 2lbs.
Using the OEM windshield washer bottle for my W2A reserve tank.
Vision Technica oil catch tank.
Vision Technica EF specific front/rear strut bar.
Will need to get the rear strut bar custom fab'd for perfect rear wagon fitment.
That Vision Technica stamp tho...
Will need to cut that Spoon Sports top hose for correct fitment like my Skunk2 hoses. Skunk2 hoses will be for sale shortly along with the rad cap.
More Spoon Sports goodies and saving up for Spoon Sports calipers.
That anodized blue tho...
Is it possible to keep PS and/or AC with that Sidewinder header? What are the advantages of that design vs. a "standard" performance header?
Build is looking awesome!
Due to header piping snaking to the driver-side PS/AC will need to be removed. Honestly I would have to take a look at an engine bay with PS/AC existing and compare to my engine bay in order to make a better judgement but from my eyes due to header routing you can't. As far as 4-1 vs 4-2-1 here is a article from redline360.com >> http://www.redline360.com/garage/4-1-vs-4-2-1-headers-what-is-the-difference-what-makes-more-power
I'm planing on dyno testing different header designs on my finished engine set-up to see differences between each of them. Since i would rather have more mid-range torque a 4-2-1 design would make sense based on redline360.com's explanation but i'm using a 4-1 design. Since i'm supercharged the characteristics of a JRSC should give me that mid-range i'm looking for and based off of redine360.com's explanation of a 4-1 header i should see more top end plus i really love the design. I don't know if these principles carry over to SC'd applications but i guess i'll be testing this out since i really would like to know. I already sold my 4-2-1 header to a site member up north so i'll have to source another.
My wire-worx.com raychem breakout D-Series stage 4 mil-spec engine harness finally arrived. Another step closer to hearing my engine run...
Im thinking i should've opt for wireworx.com black firewall mil-spec plate...
Bay side
Cabin side
Have you tried closing your hood with that half size skunk2 radiator? It seems to be a major problem that the cap hits some of the webbing of the hood and will not close. I had this problem and have read about many others with the same issue.
The price aint sexy lol but hey gotta pay to play plus you don't take that much of a hit if you save up for what you want. Saving up just takes time and waiting sucks....
Have you tried closing your hood with that half size skunk2 radiator? It seems to be a major problem that the cap hits some of the webbing of the hood and will not close. I had this problem and have read about many others with the same issue.
Kickass work goin on in here!!
Performed hood modification back in September forgot to add picture for reference but here it is >>
Just wondering what happens to the shock tower plugs then, do you simply tuck them inside the car and no longer use them?
Had both shock tower fuse box/plugs relocated under the dash when I had my 1st mil-spec cannon plug set up back in summer of 2013. If you look at page 9 comment #202 7th picture down with my hand in it you almost see the shock tower fuse box with the red lines. The shock tower plugs are to the left in that picture but you cant see it.
Using them hose clamps
Bosch pump front view
Bosch pump held on by custom bracket
Bosch pump fitted under windshield washer bottle
Circulation fill point
Circulation pull point, still need to locate a U joint to connect pump to bottle.
Exhaust system completed
Picked up some OEM goodies. Ignition wire set, ZFR5F-11 spark plugs, MAP sensor and Y8 timing cover top/mid/bottom pieces.
I'm glad i read the above, as my pulley is off approx 3mm, which leads to the belt leaning to one side. I was going to make a spacer, but its good to know pulley boys are on it!
I would look into revising the coolant tank though. after lots of research, my coolant tank is being mounted on the firewall and having the coolant enter it at the highest point (Where your brake booster is since yours is LHD)
i had circulation issues with air in the system and having the tank below the highest point just made it a pig to remove all the air.
Modified bumper support and had to cut grill to fit LHT w2a radiator.
Finally found a near mint/unpainted minus grill EF9 front bumper locally. Needed to cut the grill anyway so this works out. Still need to source a RTI w/fogs front bumper and if anyone has one LMK!....
Used a Perrin battery tie down.
Bottle mounted
Modified panel to fit strut bar mount.
Strut bar out at machine shop getting cut and re-welded to fit wagon measurements.
Rear set-up minus modified rear strut bar.
Just need to install this near mint blue carpet to clean up the rear.
That w2a radiator stickin out just a bit...
I'm glad i read the above, as my pulley is off approx 3mm, which leads to the belt leaning to one side. I was going to make a spacer, but its good to know pulley boys are on it!
I would look into revising the coolant tank though. after lots of research, my coolant tank is being mounted on the firewall and having the coolant enter it at the highest point (Where your brake booster is since yours is LHD)
i had circulation issues with air in the system and having the tank below the highest point just made it a pig to remove all the air.
Nice... I'm glad my build thread had some useful information you could use. I initially found out about the blower pulley spacer issue from pulleyboys.com's website as they stated in there description about JRSC d-series specific generation differences. I also found the same info on honda-tech D-series JRSC threads which is where i found the picture I posted pages back.
Well as far as the p-trap issue a manual T fill point will be installed on the manifold return line at the highest point. Upon W2A system coolant fill the plan is the have one person remove the W2A radiator and hold it vertically while filling the system from the manual T fill point to remove the air pocket. Once that's done start the system and let run for a couple cycles then mount the radiator back to its mounting point. We'll see if that actually fixes the p-trap air pocket issue..... The good thing is at any point i have the option to manually fill coolant on the manifold return line side where in theory the air pocket should be. Well, i hope that fixes the air pocket issue and if not at least i tried and will update my page with findings. Still loving your video logs on youtube BTW and i like the instrumentals you play at the end of every show. You should post the song credits in the description so i can search for the MP3 and bump it.
Your exhaust looks good... Tucked in really well... It looks pretty tight... Does it vibrate against anything?
I hope my exhaust system doesn't vibrate but haven't started my engine yet so we'll see. Still waiting on HA Motorsports Hondata S300 V3/P28 ECU which is scheduled to be at my door step tomorrow. I'll most likely post up a video of my car running if there isn't any bugs to take care of after first start. wagon has been down for over a year plus now so who knows what what will happen upon start. I really hope everything will be a success.
I don'tthink you have enough wheels yet haha . This thread is awesome!
Funny thing is i'm waiting on the 3-spoke F1 Honda steering wheel in picture below. Been waiting for over a month now coming all the way from Poland. I'm just missing the 3-spoke red/black/gray steering wheel 2nd row to the far right. I've never seen that steering wheel for sale before but i'm always on the hunt so we'll see just takes patients and time.
So much Awesomeness in here! Wish I could see this thing in person.
Thanks...If you ever make it out to the PNW i'll be glad to meet up with you. Show you my wagon in person and go for a cruz or meet up with other PNW wagon owners on CW dot com or even if you want to i'll take you to EFparts down in salem to check out his shop/EF yard.
WOW! So much wagon love in here. Great job Beastmode! You coming to the Honda meet in Seattle? I hope to see this ride there.
Well it all depends upon start up and tuning. If first start up and tuning goes well i'll try my best to make it out there.
Look what arrived late afternoon today.
HA Motorsports packed everything very nicely.
Its official and cant wait to connect ECU on the cabin side as the engine bay is all connected just have to fill and cycle all fluids.
I want to be there but it all comes down to first start up and tuning. I haven't been to any shows, car meets and just meets in general since 2013 I think...it has been a while.
The missing piece to my W2A plumbing system.
2x 8an bungs installed and powder coated to mimic spoon yellow. Just need to sand and polish letters and final clear coat application.
Love that hood damper setup. I was trying to square something like that away with some DIY parts. Finally got it to where it fully closes and opens to the max on one damper. Took a lot of doing though and not as clean as those =D
You must be dying inside to get this beast on the road again, such a motivational build!
Can't turn back now have to finish what I started just takes to damm long. Acquiring parts for specific reasons keeps me going to see this plan thru. The bad thing is my wagon is due for DEQ September of this year. I'll make sure she passes...
Love that hood damper setup. I was trying to square something like that away with some DIY parts. Finally got it to where it fully closes and opens to the max on one damper. Took a lot of doing though and not as clean as those =D
I wanted some polished hood dampers and loved Vision Technica Sport's finish and made it work. Had to cut a portion of the bracket and changed the mounting location which worked out. Are you going to post up your DIY EF wagon hood dampers? I would really like to see what you used as the damper.
Picked up a netbook for tuning, data logging and bit map saving purposes only. It's a IBM Lenovo Ideapad S10 10.1in widescreen, windows XP, 1.6ghz Intel Atom N270, 2gb of ram and Bluetooth. Hondata states laptop minimum is windows xp, 7 or 8 and 1gb of ram. I think I met the minimum specs with the $100.00 laptop I just purchased off of craigslist before going in to work today.
Also downloaded Hondata's Smanager software V2.3.7 and S300 USB driver.
Will be using HA Motorsports E-Tuning service for real world driving conditions. I'll eventually go to TrackForged for peak power tuning. I'm basically going to save both bit maps so I can switch it up for different situations.
Are you going to post up your DIY EF wagon hood dampers? I would really like to see what you used as the damper
I will if I can sort out a bracket I like. I still get a little bit of flex on things. Right now it's a bit ghetto looking since I have a piece of aluminum angle riveted to a steel bracket with the ball on it and then welded a ball to the wide of the engine bay, sort of where yours is mounted just there in the engine bay not the where the fender bolts up itself. I have about 4 extra dampers hanging around now from trial and error. I got them too high rated though so if I have two on there it'll just bend the hood so I'm running just one on the drivers side. With the geometry of things though JR Products GSNI-5200-60 Gas Spring is the damper I went with. So it's definitely not as clean as yours, when I'm happy with it though I'll post it up =D
Nice score on that cheapie laptop. I'd love for there to be a management solution via iPad. I've seen OBDII bluetooth modules that allow for that, which seem pretty sweet. Custom tweaking an ECU though that would be another matter.
That Mil-spec wire setup is absolutely awesome though. If my engine bay was ever that clean I'd not know who I was anymore. Quite Jealous, and keep up the awesome work.
I will if I can sort out a bracket I like. I still get a little bit of flex on things. Right now it's a bit ghetto looking since I have a piece of aluminum angle riveted to a steel bracket with the ball on it and then welded a ball to the wide of the engine bay, sort of where yours is mounted just there in the engine bay not the where the fender bolts up itself. I have about 4 extra dampers hanging around now from trial and error. I got them too high rated though so if I have two on there it'll just bend the hood so I'm running just one on the drivers side. With the geometry of things though JR Products GSNI-5200-60 Gas Spring is the damper I went with. So it's definitely not as clean as yours, when I'm happy with it though I'll post it up =D
Nice score on that cheapie laptop. I'd love for there to be a management solution via iPad. I've seen OBDII bluetooth modules that allow for that, which seem pretty sweet. Custom tweaking an ECU though that would be another matter.
That Mil-spec wire setup is absolutely awesome though. If my engine bay was ever that clean I'd not know who I was anymore. Quite Jealous, and keep up the awesome work.
Hopefully your DIY EF wagon hood damper “How to”set comes out clean and in good working order to where others would want to perform. It sucks that a lot of companies always forget about the wagon.They should have a EF chassis disclaimer stating fits EF chassis except wagon model. Yeah mil-spec engine harness is pretty trick looking kinda looks like I don’t even have an engine harness hooked up. Got that mil-spec plate/engine bay firewall connection hidden real low which is to my liking…
Big thanks to Kevin @Big Civic Hatch Auto Parts for the lower center console indigo ring cigarette lighter w/ash try light set. I wonder how it looks lit up.
Got that that valve cover back powder coated spoon sports yellow w/polished letters.
ATE Dot 4 Type-200 brake fluid.
Engine bay 90% complete.
Specs >>
-Vehicle: 1990 Honda Civic Wagon RT4wd 5-speed w/SL.
-D-series Jackson Racing Supercharger M45 blower 4-rib 3.2in blower pulley/6.29in OEM Y8 crank pulley setup.
-OEM 2bar map sensor. **my pulley setup should yield 10-12psi.
-Skunk2 pro series cam gear(304-05-5170).
-Bisimoto level 2.4 Y8 turbo street/race billet cam, V-tec. Intake: 268 Exhaust: 248.
-Supertech valves springs(SPRK-H1002S) & titanium retainers(Ret-H1002/T1).
-ARP D16Z6 w/Y8 head stud kit(208-4301).
-RC engineering 750cc fuel injectors(SH4-750h).
-SRP 9.0:1 CR 75.25mm coated turbo pistons(149179).
-Eagle H-beam connecting rods w/ARP rod bolts(CRS5394H3D).
-ACL race bearing kit D16Z6(BK1956H).
-Balanced polished crankshaft.
-Y8 head port, valve job and resurface.
-Z6 block hot tank, bore and hone cylinder.
-Tanabe VLS wideband air/fuel ratio with 4.9 bosch sensor.
-HA Motorsports Hondata S300 V3/P28 OBD1 ECU.
-AEM fuel pressure regulator w/AEM fuel rail.
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump.
-LHT Performance 70mm throttle body.
-Spec-D tuning sidwinder 4-1 header with Tanabe medalion touring exhaust 2.5in set-up.
-M45 blower unit has been fully rebuilt to OEM specs by PSE superchargers, 0 miles.
-JRSC manifold has been serviced by LHT Performance with ported s-tube/manifold & runners, 2 manifold intercooler cores and intercooler core radiator, 0 miles.
-AEM V2 water/meth kit using 500cc/min injector nozzle. Solution mix: Boost juice 49% methanol/51% water.
-NOTE: D16z6 block with D16Y8 engine set up has been broken in for at-least 400miles while NA without the JRSC setup.
Comments
Perrin intercooler coupler cut to fit.
LHT 70mm throttle body port matched, S-tube is completely ported as well on the throttle body side and SC unit side.
Still need to gut the airbox.
Need to remove that K&N sticker
ESP.net is in Olympia Washington which is a i think a 1.5hr drive from me and I will pay them a personal visit. I'll most likely purchase a package deal to keep the price low and if anything i'll post up on my build thread. I'm going to try to price out a full set traction bar, front and rear strut bar but we'll see I haven't made up my mind yet.
Fuel Tuck'd dot com fuel filter tucked kit installed just missing fitting to fuel rail.
Custom IAT spacer and gasket
88-91 Mishimoto hose kit and heater hose used to refresh all lines.
Finally got that fuel rail fitting.
Initially prior to install S-tube fitment wasn't correct. S-tube was hitting manifold intercooler end cap.
Got a spacer custom fab'd for s-tube fitment.
As you can see S-tube fitment is not an issue.
Got that AEM water/meter kit nozzle and line finally hooked up. Needed to have that nozzle installed prior to throttle body.
AEM water/meth kit line routing to fire wall.
Got that prismatic powders in "New York Yellow" for my Y8 VC to mimic that Spoon Sports yellow.
New York yellow 2lbs.
Using the OEM windshield washer bottle for my W2A reserve tank.
Vision Technica oil catch tank.
Vision Technica EF specific front/rear strut bar.
Will need to get the rear strut bar custom fab'd for perfect rear wagon fitment.
That Vision Technica stamp tho...
Will need to cut that Spoon Sports top hose for correct fitment like my Skunk2 hoses. Skunk2 hoses will be for sale shortly along with the rad cap.
More Spoon Sports goodies and saving up for Spoon Sports calipers.
That anodized blue tho...
Build is looking awesome!
Due to header piping snaking to the driver-side PS/AC will need to be removed. Honestly I would have to take a look at an engine bay with PS/AC existing and compare to my engine bay in order to make a better judgement but from my eyes due to header routing you can't. As far as 4-1 vs 4-2-1 here is a article from redline360.com >> http://www.redline360.com/garage/4-1-vs-4-2-1-headers-what-is-the-difference-what-makes-more-power
I'm planing on dyno testing different header designs on my finished engine set-up to see differences between each of them. Since i would rather have more mid-range torque a 4-2-1 design would make sense based on redline360.com's explanation but i'm using a 4-1 design. Since i'm supercharged the characteristics of a JRSC should give me that mid-range i'm looking for and based off of redine360.com's explanation of a 4-1 header i should see more top end plus i really love the design. I don't know if these principles carry over to SC'd applications but i guess i'll be testing this out since i really would like to know. I already sold my 4-2-1 header to a site member up north so i'll have to source another.
My wire-worx.com raychem breakout D-Series stage 4 mil-spec engine harness finally arrived. Another step closer to hearing my engine run...
Im thinking i should've opt for wireworx.com black firewall mil-spec plate...
Bay side
Cabin side
Kickass work goin on in here!!
The price aint sexy lol but hey gotta pay to play plus you don't take that much of a hit if you save up for what you want. Saving up just takes time and waiting sucks....
Performed hood modification back in September forgot to add picture for reference but here it is >>
Had both shock tower fuse box/plugs relocated under the dash when I had my 1st mil-spec cannon plug set up back in summer of 2013. If you look at page 9 comment #202 7th picture down with my hand in it you almost see the shock tower fuse box with the red lines. The shock tower plugs are to the left in that picture but you cant see it.
Bosch pump front view
Bosch pump held on by custom bracket
Bosch pump fitted under windshield washer bottle
Circulation fill point
Circulation pull point, still need to locate a U joint to connect pump to bottle.
Exhaust system completed
Picked up some OEM goodies. Ignition wire set, ZFR5F-11 spark plugs, MAP sensor and Y8 timing cover top/mid/bottom pieces.
I would look into revising the coolant tank though. after lots of research, my coolant tank is being mounted on the firewall and having the coolant enter it at the highest point (Where your brake booster is since yours is LHD)
i had circulation issues with air in the system and having the tank below the highest point just made it a pig to remove all the air.
Tucked in really well... It looks pretty tight... Does it vibrate against anything?
Finally found a near mint/unpainted minus grill EF9 front bumper locally. Needed to cut the grill anyway so this works out. Still need to source a RTI w/fogs front bumper and if anyone has one LMK!....
Used a Perrin battery tie down.
Bottle mounted
Modified panel to fit strut bar mount.
Strut bar out at machine shop getting cut and re-welded to fit wagon measurements.
Rear set-up minus modified rear strut bar.
Just need to install this near mint blue carpet to clean up the rear.
That w2a radiator stickin out just a bit...
Nice... I'm glad my build thread had some useful information you could use. I initially found out about the blower pulley spacer issue from pulleyboys.com's website as they stated in there description about JRSC d-series specific generation differences. I also found the same info on honda-tech D-series JRSC threads which is where i found the picture I posted pages back.
Well as far as the p-trap issue a manual T fill point will be installed on the manifold return line at the highest point. Upon W2A system coolant fill the plan is the have one person remove the W2A radiator and hold it vertically while filling the system from the manual T fill point to remove the air pocket. Once that's done start the system and let run for a couple cycles then mount the radiator back to its mounting point. We'll see if that actually fixes the p-trap air pocket issue..... The good thing is at any point i have the option to manually fill coolant on the manifold return line side where in theory the air pocket should be. Well, i hope that fixes the air pocket issue and if not at least i tried and will update my page with findings. Still loving your video logs on youtube BTW and i like the instrumentals you play at the end of every show. You should post the song credits in the description so i can search for the MP3 and bump it.
Wire worx mil-spec engine harness mounting to fire wall plate.
Spoon sports radiator hoses modified for wagon fitment.
Cut off piece of the top hose.
DC2 hoses
Vision Technica Sport EK hood dampers modified for wagon fitment.
Vision Technica Sport EF rear tower strut brace modified for wagon fitment.
Vision Technica Sport oil catch tank.
Thanks...If you ever make it out to the PNW i'll be glad to meet up with you. Show you my wagon in person and go for a cruz or meet up with other PNW wagon owners on CW dot com or even if you want to i'll take you to EFparts down in salem to check out his shop/EF yard.
Well it all depends upon start up and tuning. If first start up and tuning goes well i'll try my best to make it out there.
Look what arrived late afternoon today.
HA Motorsports packed everything very nicely.
Its official and cant wait to connect ECU on the cabin side as the engine bay is all connected just have to fill and cycle all fluids.
The missing piece to my W2A plumbing system.
2x 8an bungs installed and powder coated to mimic spoon yellow. Just need to sand and polish letters and final clear coat application.
I wanted some polished hood dampers and loved Vision Technica Sport's finish and made it work. Had to cut a portion of the bracket and changed the mounting location which worked out. Are you going to post up your DIY EF wagon hood dampers? I would really like to see what you used as the damper.
Picked up a netbook for tuning, data logging and bit map saving purposes only. It's a IBM Lenovo Ideapad S10 10.1in widescreen, windows XP, 1.6ghz Intel Atom N270, 2gb of ram and Bluetooth. Hondata states laptop minimum is windows xp, 7 or 8 and 1gb of ram. I think I met the minimum specs with the $100.00 laptop I just purchased off of craigslist before going in to work today.
Also downloaded Hondata's Smanager software V2.3.7 and S300 USB driver.
Will be using HA Motorsports E-Tuning service for real world driving conditions. I'll eventually go to TrackForged for peak power tuning. I'm basically going to save both bit maps so I can switch it up for different situations.
Got my replacement fluids minus brake fluid.
I will if I can sort out a bracket I like. I still get a little bit of flex on things. Right now it's a bit ghetto looking since I have a piece of aluminum angle riveted to a steel bracket with the ball on it and then welded a ball to the wide of the engine bay, sort of where yours is mounted just there in the engine bay not the where the fender bolts up itself. I have about 4 extra dampers hanging around now from trial and error. I got them too high rated though so if I have two on there it'll just bend the hood so I'm running just one on the drivers side. With the geometry of things though JR Products GSNI-5200-60 Gas Spring is the damper I went with. So it's definitely not as clean as yours, when I'm happy with it though I'll post it up =D
Nice score on that cheapie laptop. I'd love for there to be a management solution via iPad. I've seen OBDII bluetooth modules that allow for that, which seem pretty sweet. Custom tweaking an ECU though that would be another matter.
That Mil-spec wire setup is absolutely awesome though. If my engine bay was ever that clean I'd not know who I was anymore. Quite Jealous, and keep up the awesome work.
Hopefully your DIY EF wagon hood damper “How to”set comes out clean and in good working order to where others would want to perform. It sucks that a lot of companies always forget about the wagon.They should have a EF chassis disclaimer stating fits EF chassis except wagon model. Yeah mil-spec engine harness is pretty trick looking kinda looks like I don’t even have an engine harness hooked up. Got that mil-spec plate/engine bay firewall connection hidden real low which is to my liking…
Big thanks to Kevin @Big Civic Hatch Auto Parts for the lower center console indigo ring cigarette lighter w/ash try light set. I wonder how it looks lit up.
Got that that valve cover back powder coated spoon sports yellow w/polished letters.
ATE Dot 4 Type-200 brake fluid.
Engine bay 90% complete.
Specs >>
-Vehicle: 1990 Honda Civic Wagon RT4wd 5-speed w/SL.
-D-series Jackson Racing Supercharger M45 blower 4-rib 3.2in blower pulley/6.29in OEM Y8 crank pulley setup.
-OEM 2bar map sensor. **my pulley setup should yield 10-12psi.
-Skunk2 pro series cam gear(304-05-5170).
-Bisimoto level 2.4 Y8 turbo street/race billet cam, V-tec. Intake: 268 Exhaust: 248.
-Supertech valves springs(SPRK-H1002S) & titanium retainers(Ret-H1002/T1).
-ARP D16Z6 w/Y8 head stud kit(208-4301).
-RC engineering 750cc fuel injectors(SH4-750h).
-SRP 9.0:1 CR 75.25mm coated turbo pistons(149179).
-Eagle H-beam connecting rods w/ARP rod bolts(CRS5394H3D).
-ACL race bearing kit D16Z6(BK1956H).
-Balanced polished crankshaft.
-Y8 head port, valve job and resurface.
-Z6 block hot tank, bore and hone cylinder.
-Tanabe VLS wideband air/fuel ratio with 4.9 bosch sensor.
-HA Motorsports Hondata S300 V3/P28 OBD1 ECU.
-AEM fuel pressure regulator w/AEM fuel rail.
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump.
-LHT Performance 70mm throttle body.
-Spec-D tuning sidwinder 4-1 header with Tanabe medalion touring exhaust 2.5in set-up.
-M45 blower unit has been fully rebuilt to OEM specs by PSE superchargers, 0 miles.
-JRSC manifold has been serviced by LHT Performance with ported s-tube/manifold & runners, 2 manifold intercooler cores and intercooler core radiator, 0 miles.
-AEM V2 water/meth kit using 500cc/min injector nozzle. Solution mix: Boost juice 49% methanol/51% water.
-NOTE: D16z6 block with D16Y8 engine set up has been broken in for at-least 400miles while NA without the JRSC setup.