Pebbles' resto-thread
bam-bam
Council Member
You've all seen this car, Revmaynard picked it up awhile back, there's a thread somewhere...
Brought it home 5 days ago and just now got time to work on it...
Replaced the pedal assembly :x :x :x PITA
Don't let anybody tell you all EF pedals will interchange- they will not.
Also changed the alternator...TWICE
junkyard one I tried first was NFG.
Brought it home 5 days ago and just now got time to work on it...
Replaced the pedal assembly :x :x :x PITA
Don't let anybody tell you all EF pedals will interchange- they will not.
Also changed the alternator...TWICE
junkyard one I tried first was NFG.
Comments
If you've never seen this sight, I hope you don't
The sedan pedals I put in did bolt up, but the clutch pedal interfered with some HVAC, and the clutch interlock switch, too
so I welded and reinforced the existing assembly. Don't think It'll break there again!
Here's THE rust spot:
none here
needs a muffler and a cat
got it all back together and it moved under its own power :shock:
held 11.789 gallons... isn't full capacity 11.8??
list of coming repairs:
both cv axles and tranny seals
brake booster (leaking vacuum)
driver window regulator and inside door latch and weatherstrip
replace antenna
headliner and re-bond roof bows
speakers and pods
hatch struts
muffler/cat/exhaust heat shield rattles
door switch for dome light
new windshield
seats or covers
that oughta keep me busy for a week or two!
oh, and AC repairs! I think the belt is off because of a faulty tensioner pulley bearing (fingers crossed). This time I'll remove the evaporator and clean it BEFORE charging the system.
1)Brake booster from a '90 DX auto wagon is not the same as '91 5spd. Auto is 230mm, 5spd is 205mm. The larger one may fit, if you remove the intake manifold for access! So much for partscar freebies!
2) Before removing the booster,check the condition of the rubber seal behind the master cylinder :oops: I think that's all it was. Testing with the bamomatic oral vacuum simulator seems to confirm.
3) I'm a stubborn sort, and I haven't done it yet, but I think I'll have to remove the GD steering column and pedals AGAIN to finish the job :evil:
Finished putting the pedals/brake booster/dash back together
Replaced window regulator and inside door handle and driver's door latch
New cV axles and output shaft seals, trans oil change
Took out "test pipe", installed cat., tacked rattling heat shields
put a tailpipe on existing muffler
Took apart a junkyard backseat, cleaned the cover-
SWMBO did a lot more scrubbing.
wagovans ftmfw!!
Coming right along...
blammo.
let the smoke out
ventilated the block.
oil light was no bullshit
no swap. stockers FTW.
fix it! That block is now scrap iron, but I have spares. May even get a used engine, we'll see. Still only two of us, and have 6 cars insured...
Performance? 312K mi, still 34 mpg? that's performance!
just my personal opinions, lets see it running again
do a SOHC VTEC swap. little extra power, excellent reliablility, and great gas mileage (hell, prolly even better then some D15B2s)
as in cowbell,
MOOH..WELL TO SEE I'LL SAY ... MINE IS BIGGER THAN YOURS
: )
LOCATION
http://maps.google.nl/maps?hl=nl&ie=UTF ... 3&t=h&z=17
reminds me ... hilarious, "we need more cowbells"
and you know bam, it alll happens in 'time' ...
ok, so educate me. i know exactly zip about swaps. what do i look for?
stay d-series.