'91 RT4WD -AK Style- Build Thread



  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Like it! More?
  • bam-bam wrote: »
    Like it! More?


    except photobocket is doing maintenance at the moment so there will be no images tonight.........

    ..........i like stainless steel
  • oops i lied, photobucket is back up

    didnt get too much accomplished but lucky for eveyone im a photo whore ;-)


    had to bridge a 1/8th gap, my fitting skills have plenty of room for improvment


    and here is why i need everything else spacered,


    i might just pull the engine to accomplish the next subframe, it would honestly be easier
  • r4ptorr4ptor Band Wagon
    wait, you lifted the front end only?
    can the procedure be repeated on the rear too?
    to get the same lift?

    nice progress :smug:
  • r4ptor: yep im gonna spacer all 3 subframes and wherever the suspension attaches to the unibody.

    i managed a little more progress today

    heres where i want the ride height to end up when im all done:


    ha just kidding, put her up on 12x12s to get a better look at what in the world is gonna have to happen here. also the rear subframe uses shorter bolts than the front 2 so i was actually able to make the bolts i needed out of some grade 8, 1/2-20x8 bolts


    there are the spacers and bolts for the rear sub frames all ready to go.........and wouldn't you know it, tomorrow is Veteran's Day and i have the day off. for the spacers i actually used round stock that was (in a previous life) the pump shaft for a Flygt solids handling pump.....................in other words my lift kit is an old poop pump and it isn't going to break.

    and i found out how to cut threads like a BOSS


    thats all for tonight i should have most of tomorrow to tinker as long as it doesn't snow.
  • did 7 hours today, finished the rear and middle spacers. half the day was spent tearing out the front suspension and steering.

    ive been brainstorming about the color scheme for this rig, i was initially thinking of painting it black/blue digicamo, but i think i found my choice


    i actually have a gallon of the legit enamel "old cat yellow" i figure if its good enough for old iron its good enough for my rice burner

    here are the rear spacers


    this is the rear frame dropped 4"


    middle spacers:


    for the middle spacers i used the same pump shaft i used for the rear ones.

    and of course the welder took a shit on my second to last bead so im stalled for the evening


    time for a clean up

    this update made possible by: Redbull, Hostess Cupcakes and Five Finger Death Punch
  • micro update:

    so by this point im pretty much over looking for long m12x1,25 bolts and after reading a very convincing article of the benefits of rolled threads vs. cut threads i finally broke down and switched to SAE. an M12x1.25 can be drilled out and re-tapped to 1/2-20.

    so since ill be drilling and tapping the unibody i figured i dont want to mess it up. i built these guide/bushing dealys, the O.D. of the "guide" is .003" smaller than the recessed pocket in the unibody, the I.D. is the same as the 29/64th drill bit and the shank of the tap....................it looks like THIS pardon my halfwitted description


    and it plays out like this:


    drill out the old m12 threads


    and tap in the 1/2-20 threads

    ive only done 2 so far because thats how many 1/2-20x8" grade 8 bolts i could round up here in town, ACE ordered me 6 more
  • steering shaft extension, started with grade 8 threaded rod, have to fit and cut to length then im going to plug weld it to the existing splines.


    clearance cut for cinch bolt


  • had alot of hood time this morning, unitized the rear spacers and diff spacers. also painted the diff cover.


    had to cut out some of the spare well to clear the rear bracing


    here is the steering shaft extension, still needs the welds once everything is all lined up


    the front is done except for the UCA which i am procrastinating modifying

  • so i got a new camera, it has a much narrower field of view than my iphone but it takes better pitures

    got the rear diff housing all cleaned up, next is bead blasting then paint. as for the diff itself id like to find a rebuild kit, the races are pretty worn:


    i pulled all the races because im a dumbass and dont like wainting for parts

    heres kinda what im goin for here




    i guess ill order diff parts, my goal right now is to get to where i can roll in and out of the shop since im kind of hogging it right now.
  • Awesome work you are doing here! :encouragement:
  • Thanks buddy
  • alright here is what ive figured out so far:

    1) diff. bearing (x2)
    - # on bearing: 4T-CR-0891PX1
    - 68mm Race O.D. tapered roller bearing
    - crossed to #: 32008X (Timken, SKF)

    2) inner pinion bearing
    - # on bearing: 4T 323086PX1
    - 72mm Race O.D. tapered roller bearing
    - crossed to #: 32306 (Timken, SKF)

    3) outer pinion bearing
    - # on bearing:4T 332/28
    - 58mm Race O.D., 28mm Bearing I.D., tapered roller bearing
    - the only number thats getting me anywhere: 332/28
    - honda #: 91125-PH8-008...........looks like im over a barrel for this one, cheapest i could find is $54 + shipping

    axle seals: #710110
    pinion seal: # 223843
  • klumklum Senior Wagonist
    what youre doing.... i like that shit. :encouragement:
  • happy to help, its nice to get these parts #s clarified for everyone

    ive exhausted just about all my resources for the outer pinion bearing, im checking grainger as we speak. i found one outfit stateside that i have to call to get a quote.

  • Yeah, keep it up man, way up =D always a fan of the lifted wagon.
  • back at it again! had a very good day fabbing after work, i think ya'll see where im going with these


    i screwed up and cut 1 7/8" holes instead of 2 1/8" so prepare yourselves for some downright redneck fabrication


    that totally worked flawlessly haha


    4 3/4" of some 2" SCH40 pipe and somehow i managed to run some pretty beads


    total spacing for the rear is 5 1/4". i totally made that number up so we'll see where she sits once i get these bolted in


    kinda took a break from the wagon for awhile to pursue a different hobby.......but at $6.49 a round that certainly didnt last very long.........just sayin, those damn zombies arent going to kill themselves!

  • made some more progress today, made a quick pass with the mill to make room for the nuts


    and what i suspected might be a problem turned out to be a problem........as suspected........


    the struts are not straight up and down so the new mount sticks out from the body by about and inch or so. in this picture i have a floor jack under the LCA pushing upwards until i takes the rear off the block. needless to say i will need to drop the rear suspension arms in order to install the strut spacers. right now im working on a jig to drop the upper toe arm thingys accurately, there will be a little bit o' hack-n-slash on the unibody to get a spot to build the mount. im not sure if im going to build it to the unibody or the tubular frame spacer or both.

    ill leave this teaser (mostly for myself)


    the wifey is outta town for work for 4-7 weeks so i now have plenty of time for projects, stay tuned...
  • so i think ive solved the upper toe arm dilema.......

    about 3" below the stock mount on the body is a pinch seam in the unibody, i cut out the overhand and made a template for a piece of 3/16" steel and cut it out with a plasma to marry it back together and give me a solid area to build my mount. also i cut 3 holes to allow for some plug welds for strength..............its hard to describe, ill take some pics tomorrow. anyhow, instead of sticking with the stock suspension arm which has that stupib 2 bolt flange im going to go to heim joints because racecar. that and its alot easier to build to ears on the mount.

    here is my new suspension arm i built today, i started with 1" round stock, im not too sure what kind of steel this is but it is magnetic and dense, also i could only bend a 10' section about 7 degrees with one end in a vice so to say the least this is some badass stuff. these are obviously not the rod ends im going to use, just for illustrative purposes. i can make these suspension arms in all lengthes and i have about 2" of adjustment since one end is RH and the other is LH thread.


  • spent a bit of time on the end mill today,

    i figured while im at it ill try and fix the trailing arms bushing "plunge" issue. i started with some 1.25" stainless round stock and turned it down to 1.17" on the lathe. then the joy of machining stainless really set in........i hate this stuff. this is a replacment pivot shaft for the trailing arm, i used some 308L rod to weld the disc onto the shaft.

    i feel that solid stock will be a little bit stronger than the stock pipe with the ends smushed

  • No pictograph updates today but i did manage a little more progress. Well..........it looks like im in for the long haul, in order to reinforce all the suspension points with pipe, i had to remove the fuel tank. THERE'S SO MUCH ROOM FOR ACTIVITIES! so looks like a fuel cell is in my future before this rig will run again. its interesting, in the unibody on either side of where the tank was it looks JUST LIKE frame rails, kind of convenient, so it looks like my next step is to start tying everything together with pipe, i would like to add it to the subframe spacer so ill have to weld plates to the unibody and make a bolt on flange for the pipe. otherwise the spacer would be welded to the unibody. its brainstorming for now.
  • I lied there is a pictograph, finished my toe links with rod ends from Summit Racing

  • had some time this week to work on the rear suspension, this is a frame for the front to links that will eventually be tied to the rear tubular frame. started with plates to build a bolt on mount for the chassis, i simply welded some grade 8 1/2-20 nuts on the back of 2 of the plates.


    then welded them to the chassis, i will say im not very proud of these welds, this rosin core isnt gonna cut it, i need to set up my tig unit but im a lazy piece of shit


    sorry for the bad pics, my new camera broke already


    MATH! chillin with my homeboy Pythagoras


    wound up with some really nice welds on this part


    here it is all installed, just need to weld on the ears for the heim joints. this isnt perfect but its close enough, any discrepancies in the dimensions can be made up with the adjustable links

  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Nice work! Raising the bar even higher.
  • Thanks man! Wish I'd paid just a little more attention in high school geometry haha

    The X and Y axis layout isn't too bad it's when I try to figure the Z axis I lose it, I need a buddy who knows CAD.
  • Made a little more progress, finished one of the toe arm mounts today, turned out pretty good IMO, especially since i havent the faintest clue what the hell im doing haha. it turns out the rod ends i got from Summit arent going to work very well, i have one 1/2 x 1/2 end with a 1.25" wide head, it has a misalign angle of 60 degrees where as the other 1/2 x 1/2 ends are only .625" wide and have a max misalign angle of 20 degrees. that being said ill have to order 3 more of the 1.25 ends. anyhow here's today's hack n' slash montage

  • JaudetteJaudette Wagonist
    got her to where she'll roll out of the shop, RH side is more or less done, im gonna do the left side then add all the reinforcements so this is far from over.

    new solid stainless trailing arm pivot shaft w/ anti-plunge plate


    upper control arm mount


    heres basically the rear, im gonna raise and reposition the front toe arm mounts down the road but it articulates pretty well even like this


    out the shop and on the back burner.......taking a break


    its been a really weird winter, like it didnt snow AT ALL..............
  • Wagon 3.0 ETA spring 2017. Stay tuned. 1.jpeg[/URL]
  • Hit it hard today after almost 2 years of absence. Nothing like a little Friday hack-n-slash!





    Ladies and Gentlemen this is the death of my civic wagon, I had alot of fun with it and have grown rather sentimental towards it but.......

    As much fun as i had and learning I did building that lift kit dealy I realized it was all for looks and a bit to chincy for real-world use. That being said I would like to apologize to any "purists" on the forum, I suggest you divert your gaze......
  • 1993 Hilux 22re 4wd








    So there you have it. I will say that once the engine/trans and fuel tank are installed it will ride a bit lower. I built the rear frame to accommodate this body, it should look rather natural being as the body is riding FLAT on the frame.
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