alrighty, this actually happened a few weeks ago, i guess its expected putting 300+ HP into a 100 HP car............nevermind you i was trying to impress a girl
that was a new Rockford u-joint, i guess dropping the clutch with a spooled turbo at 5500 rpm isnt the brightest idea........
anyways, i replaced the u-joint and learned my lesson, thank god for the extra u-joints.
it was a beautiful solstice weekend so in spirit of enjoying the 22hrs of daylight i pulled an all-nighter. primarily i just installed the energy-suspension bushings.
heres my shade tree method since i dont have a hydraulic press
front LCA
front sway bar link
rear LCA
Also started undoing my half-assery from the initial build, i used spade terminals for the OBD-0 to OBD-1 conversion on my dizzy and just went back and soldered everything.
also installed the Skunk2 UCA w/ energy suspension bushings
and thats it for the time being, still leakin oil like a MOFO, have to replace the RF lower ball-joint and the oil pan gasket before i can drive this beater
Also, the guy doing the turbo build asked for a pic of how i routed the 3" exhaust, these are kind of shitty pics but heres what my iphone could get
welding in a strip here to increase rigidity and make it not look like ass
trimmed to underside to clear the charge piping, its a tight fit
and here we are for today, much better
and heres on the agenda next, the sides of my scoop, i decided to build my own out of sheet metal because i dont feel like paying $160 bux for an oem subaru one and because being original was kinda the idea behind this build, im going to try and bring the top sheet to my buddy at the plumbing store so he can use the brake to cut it, i dont forsee getting accurate enough cuts with shears.
Hey guys I need a little help, and yes I used the search engine it just has very broad results. I remember seeing in someone else's thread there is a company the makes aftermarket mounts for the rear diff, anyone know?
Thanks, I'm still gonna get a subaru one, I measured it will actually fit perfectly, it's weird how stuff works out sometimes. As for the mounts I just picked up an 80a polyurinestain pour kit from the PO over lunch and my new febest rear mount is due to arrive tomorrow. Headin up to anchorage on Saturday to go pick parts of a parts rig so hopefully I can get some doors with fewer dents.
Also got her up and running a week ago, NO LEAKS! This is the first time I have actually daily driven this rig and it's awesome. Also been brainstorming about a lift, however im getting married in a few weeks and that seems to be taking up most of my time and money
So You made it all stiffer or hard like rock? Each have it's own opinion, I personally think, that all drivetrain parts should move that much how they can when you stamp on the gas pedal hard! If they are very stiff and don't move, than all bad force takes the tranny, and that's much worse..
Hope You understand what I mean, hard to express if english is not so good
Well it's always raining so maybe a solid 5days? I tried to find 3m window weld but no one in town has it. I think the loctite will be sufficient, plus it was a new mount. Honestly if I were to do the pour method for diff mounts again I'd go with 94a instead of 80a
Snow bird I hear ya for sure, it's the torque mount on the rear that takes the beating so in hind sight I'm actually glad I went with the tube stuff, on the flip side the diff em was SO loose I think that's why I snapped the input u-joint. I'll be the Ginea pig
Snow bird I hear ya for sure, it's the torque mount on the rear that takes the beating so in hind sight I'm actually glad I went with the tube stuff, on the flip side the diff em was SO loose I think that's why I snapped the input u-joint. I'll be the Ginea pig
Snow bird (it's meant snowboard)
Maybe Your diff mount (bushing) was damaged. And one more specific information to save your drivetrain. When You launch from zero, you should get all your drivetrain in little force by letting the clutch a little bit loose and holding the e-brake (to not start moving forward). In this way, when you let your clutch totaly off, it would only be half the force on drivetrain.
yep, I understand pre-loading the drivetrain, something I just thought of though, how would pre-loading work with the viscous coupler?
That's the right question, because it doesn't start working till front wheels start spinning! I have tried this start to train it, but it's not very useful with 125 hp
I have thought about building a VC eliminator and going full 50/50 AWD but that's not a priority right now, maybe down the road. I do have an extra tranny so maybe I'll give it a whirl some day.
I was thinking of doing that as well, but it's difficult to do this math to pick the correct tire sizes to compensate for the difference in rotation between front and rear so I never got past the thinking stage. It does seem that the VC locks up incredibly fast though- I can do full boost 1st gear pulls and I don't even hear the front tires chirp.
I have thought about building a VC eliminator and going full 50/50 AWD but that's not a priority right now, maybe down the road. I do have an extra tranny so maybe I'll give it a whirl some day.
I also have an extra tranny And yeah, the rear wheels starts spinning within a second after front wheels..
"the pipe in the middle is 1 1/4" plus the 1/4" plate for a total of 1 3/4" lift.
gonna lift the front first then figure how much lift I need for the rear."
On mine, with 1.5" spacers up front, I have 3.25" on the rear. I've been meaning to add another half inch to the rears, but that will involve installing toe adjusters and a re-alignment.
Comments
that was a new Rockford u-joint, i guess dropping the clutch with a spooled turbo at 5500 rpm isnt the brightest idea........
anyways, i replaced the u-joint and learned my lesson, thank god for the extra u-joints.
it was a beautiful solstice weekend so in spirit of enjoying the 22hrs of daylight i pulled an all-nighter. primarily i just installed the energy-suspension bushings.
heres my shade tree method since i dont have a hydraulic press
front LCA
front sway bar link
rear LCA
Also started undoing my half-assery from the initial build, i used spade terminals for the OBD-0 to OBD-1 conversion on my dizzy and just went back and soldered everything.
also installed the Skunk2 UCA w/ energy suspension bushings
and thats it for the time being, still leakin oil like a MOFO, have to replace the RF lower ball-joint and the oil pan gasket before i can drive this beater
Also, the guy doing the turbo build asked for a pic of how i routed the 3" exhaust, these are kind of shitty pics but heres what my iphone could get
found some extra metal to play with
welding in a strip here to increase rigidity and make it not look like ass
trimmed to underside to clear the charge piping, its a tight fit
and here we are for today, much better
and heres on the agenda next, the sides of my scoop, i decided to build my own out of sheet metal because i dont feel like paying $160 bux for an oem subaru one and because being original was kinda the idea behind this build, im going to try and bring the top sheet to my buddy at the plumbing store so he can use the brake to cut it, i dont forsee getting accurate enough cuts with shears.
also welded in the venturi for the exhaust scavenged crank case ventilation
and took a flapper disc to the downpipe and coated it with that 1200 degree crap
Also got her up and running a week ago, NO LEAKS! This is the first time I have actually daily driven this rig and it's awesome. Also been brainstorming about a lift, however im getting married in a few weeks and that seems to be taking up most of my time and money
o come on! :P
you don't have a couple sections of 1-2" od pipe sitting around you can use to bend the corners?
cut a sheet out of that other hood
you can do it!
upper diff mount
Forsch 80A Liquid Polyurinestain
cured the next day, these came out AWESOME, tough as nails
i dont have any poly spring isolators to install above the mounts so i cut these out of an old conveyor belt
also removed the vibration damper
unfortunately the poly leaked out of the rear mount over night before it could set up so im back to the old school method
i think ill let this cure for about a week before i install it, haha
Hope You understand what I mean, hard to express if english is not so good
Maybe Your diff mount (bushing) was damaged. And one more specific information to save your drivetrain. When You launch from zero, you should get all your drivetrain in little force by letting the clutch a little bit loose and holding the e-brake (to not start moving forward). In this way, when you let your clutch totaly off, it would only be half the force on drivetrain.
Again I hope You understand what I wrote
just tacked them together for the time being, ill let my fianc
I just made myself something like this, will post it a bit later..
today i was a welders assistant to my lady, im just a silly mechanic apparently so ill let the professionals do the welding ;-)
all welded up and ready to fit it up and drill the holes, after that bead blasting and paint before the install
gonna lift the front first then figure how much lift I need for the rear."
On mine, with 1.5" spacers up front, I have 3.25" on the rear. I've been meaning to add another half inch to the rears, but that will involve installing toe adjusters and a re-alignment.
Nice fab and welding skills!