Hey, I remember your 86 at the SCCA autocross event at PIR back in September... real clean swap... I hope the civic is gonna be just at totally awesome.
So spent pretty much the whole weekend working on the wagons!!! other than the UFC fight last night!
So the blue one is back up and running, I will be driving it around then posting it up for sale!! I would love to keep it but its just another car I would need to store it. I'm doing a lot of snowborading this year at Mt. hood so its nice to have until the gold one is completed
The Gold wagon now has the D16z6 installed and will take a few weeks to get every thing completely done, but I will update my build thread with what I up to. I will finish off the build with dyno video and some freeway/driving pulls!!
I also got my P28 chiped for Crome tuning, I use the latest version of crome Gold. I also added a four wire pigtail for, two for VTEC, one for checking codes, and the last one is for Flat foot shifting!!
Here's a video of my other car its a 95 Civic coupe, this engine I using came out of that car, so I figured it belonged on my build thread! I'm now using a another sleeve engine in the couple. The video not that good but it high lights the car and build process.
you can see in the beginning of the video the cars that are in my D16 I now using on the wagon.
I have not done anything yet to my RT4wd transmission, however I have made some upgrades to my rear diff bushing!!! there's a slight "thud" that EVERY RT wagon seems to have coming from the rear, good bushings or not! This can be heard under hard acceleration. At least this is my personal experience with this car! I have come up with a cost friendly way of fixing this. I have driven the car well over 2000 miles with this rear bushing mod. This includes a 600+ mile round trip to Spokane WA, so there was plenty of snow! So the 4wd was active several times and no more “thud”.
I know that everything is good as far as bushings including the rear motor mount. With the rear end being a lot tighter it doesn't give the drive train the opportunity to "spring" and unload and break components i.e, rear diff, transfer case so forth. We will see if I’m right soon enough.
In short, this bushing modification will not allow the front mounting bushing of the rear diff to flex up and bump into the rear diff bushings top hat, by removing the stock top hat and effectively adding a spacer.
Warrning: I do not have a lot of power Yet so I will report back if I have any suspected problems with this bushing mod!!
Here’s a quick guide on how to do this….. I have not seen any posts about this so if this is a re-post sorry.
Parts list-
- 2 aftermarket polly strut top mounts ( they come in just about every coilover sleeve kit ) if you don’t have them I can a box full of them!! PM ME if you need them.
Tools-
-Die grinder, or dremel tool
-14mm socket, 5+in extension, wrench to turn it
Step #1 get the bushings, you will need two, they come in all kinds of colors, I mostly see red or black
Step #2On the front of the rear diff housing remove the two support bolts, you can do one at a time, then remove the stock top hats( you will not re-use them but save them anyway ), then opening up the inside of the poly bushings to fit on the top of the stock diff bushing, there is a "nub" that sticks up just remove enough to slide the bushing over it
This is the center of the stock bushing that's why I opened up the bushing so it will slide over
Step#3 Install your poly bushing spacer, then Install the bolts. I then added some lock-tight just in case, then hand tighten or impact. Be careful not to over tighten because you might brake the bolts (I impacted mine, but not a bad Idea to look the torque specs if you have a service book).
Step#4 FEED BACK!!! let me and everyone else know if this works or has any problems!!! Please check over your drive line and all other components before doing this bushing modification.
If you want them, $25/pair shipped to your door or $35 shipped for the a pair that are ready to drop in with no work to be done on the bushing by you!
Comments
good to see you bought NWwarwagon's wagon.
So the blue one is back up and running, I will be driving it around then posting it up for sale!! I would love to keep it but its just another car I would need to store it. I'm doing a lot of snowborading this year at Mt. hood so its nice to have until the gold one is completed
The Gold wagon now has the D16z6 installed and will take a few weeks to get every thing completely done, but I will update my build thread with what I up to. I will finish off the build with dyno video and some freeway/driving pulls!!
Here's a few pics
Z6 and A6 side by side
Now the blue one
There's been so debate if the oil return is fine, but it looks just fine-
Intercooler is not installed yet, this pic just looked cool to me!!
should be fine though
I also got my P28 chiped for Crome tuning, I use the latest version of crome Gold. I also added a four wire pigtail for, two for VTEC, one for checking codes, and the last one is for Flat foot shifting!!
"flat foot shifting" u have something rigged up to your clutch safety switch or something......
Yes its basically a lower rev limit that's turned on by the clutch peddle switch, this is so you never have to lift off the throttle.
got the 3" down pipe build, mounted the radiator, made a custom dump tube, mounted the intercooler and started to plan out the charge pips!!
More to come this weekend!!
I got some progress, just need to button a few more things and I will have her up and running!!
I had to modify my avid Racing traction bar for a front mount bracket, looks like it came that way now!!
Intercooler is all blacked out to keep the "sleeper" feel of this wagon
you can see in the beginning of the video the cars that are in my D16 I now using on the wagon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1YrB60KeEU
wOw
Build is looking great. Sure wish I had a lift for the 4wd install I'll be doing early next year lol.
second that lol
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11406
I have not done anything yet to my RT4wd transmission, however I have made some upgrades to my rear diff bushing!!! there's a slight "thud" that EVERY RT wagon seems to have coming from the rear, good bushings or not! This can be heard under hard acceleration. At least this is my personal experience with this car! I have come up with a cost friendly way of fixing this. I have driven the car well over 2000 miles with this rear bushing mod. This includes a 600+ mile round trip to Spokane WA, so there was plenty of snow! So the 4wd was active several times and no more “thud”.
I know that everything is good as far as bushings including the rear motor mount. With the rear end being a lot tighter it doesn't give the drive train the opportunity to "spring" and unload and break components i.e, rear diff, transfer case so forth. We will see if I’m right soon enough.
In short, this bushing modification will not allow the front mounting bushing of the rear diff to flex up and bump into the rear diff bushings top hat, by removing the stock top hat and effectively adding a spacer.
Warrning: I do not have a lot of power Yet so I will report back if I have any suspected problems with this bushing mod!!
Here’s a quick guide on how to do this….. I have not seen any posts about this so if this is a re-post sorry.
Parts list-
- 2 aftermarket polly strut top mounts ( they come in just about every coilover sleeve kit ) if you don’t have them I can a box full of them!! PM ME if you need them.
Tools-
-Die grinder, or dremel tool
-14mm socket, 5+in extension, wrench to turn it
Step #1 get the bushings, you will need two, they come in all kinds of colors, I mostly see red or black
Step #2On the front of the rear diff housing remove the two support bolts, you can do one at a time, then remove the stock top hats( you will not re-use them but save them anyway ), then opening up the inside of the poly bushings to fit on the top of the stock diff bushing, there is a "nub" that sticks up just remove enough to slide the bushing over it
This is the center of the stock bushing that's why I opened up the bushing so it will slide over
Step#3 Install your poly bushing spacer, then Install the bolts. I then added some lock-tight just in case, then hand tighten or impact. Be careful not to over tighten because you might brake the bolts (I impacted mine, but not a bad Idea to look the torque specs if you have a service book).
Step#4 FEED BACK!!! let me and everyone else know if this works or has any problems!!! Please check over your drive line and all other components before doing this bushing modification.
If you want them, $25/pair shipped to your door or $35 shipped for the a pair that are ready to drop in with no work to be done on the bushing by you!
I will get you that info next time I post...
I few updated pic's, should have her running on Sunday!!