I am sorry to say but 145 is a bhp or at the crank, so it would be ~ -15% of that number to the wheels. Yes I am also a fan of NA. I love the linear torque and the smoothness while revving it out!
Those numbers seemed a bit high! Haha anyway a mild cam and some head work could go a long way. It's a honda, it likes to rev and it likes to be beat. The next engine I build will probably be a NA d series. They can come close in power to b series for less than a b swap, and more importantly keep 4wd! If I wanted a Subaru I would've bought a Subaru!
Would you share what turbo did you get, and how much the whole deal cost?
I would need exhaust mani, turbo itself (wastegate included?), bov, intercooler, IC piping, boost controller, injectors, fuel pump, and probably some more stuff that I am missing here :O
I missed, what internals You have? I have a KKK K14 turbo, but I would suggest You to get at least KKK K16 which You can find cheap in ebay, or slightly bigger would be Garret GT20, because my K14 is useful only till 5k rpm and the rest of rpm takes big one. Both turbos comes with internal wastegate, so just add a MC and You are good to go! I think You mentioned almost all. One trouble is oil return line, because You need to weld a place in oil pan and to get off oil pan You need to take out engine. For fuel pump walbro 255lph is enough, injectors You can buy from evo, also cheap. If You want to go over 0.7bar, You will need a 3 bar map sensor.
Considering that You can get used turbo already with wastegate cheap, I think it's possible that You can get below 500 euros easly and with proper exhaust manifold You can get nice and linear powerband.
I missed, what internals You have? I have a KKK K14 turbo, but I would suggest You to get at least KKK K16 which You can find cheap in ebay, or slightly bigger would be Garret GT20, because my K14 is useful only till 5k rpm and the rest of rpm takes big one. Both turbos comes with internal wastegate, so just add a MC and You are good to go! I think You mentioned almost all. One trouble is oil return line, because You need to weld a place in oil pan and to get off oil pan You need to take out engine. For fuel pump walbro 255lph is enough, injectors You can buy from evo, also cheap. If You want to go over 0.7bar, You will need a 3 bar map sensor.
Considering that You can get used turbo already with wastegate cheap, I think it's possible that You can get below 500 euros easly and with proper exhaust manifold You can get nice and linear powerband.
- Head has been milled to be flat.
- Teikin PM7 75.5 pistons.
- NPR piston rings.
- Oem size head gasket 0.037”.
- 75.5 bigger bore.
- H22 Throttle body (60mm)
- L.L.E crankshaft bearings.
- L.L.E rod bearings.
- New OEM intake/exhaust valve stem seals.
- GMB water pump.
- valve seating job.
- NGK BKR6E spark plugs.
- New spark plug wires.
- 3" intake pipe
- high flow pipercross filter.
- 2.25 exhaust all the way back.
- 4-2-1 Ebay exhaust manifold.
- 2 resonators, bigger muffler.
- Exedy clutch.
- Oil catch can (catches oil from pcv and head).
- New cluch release bearing.
- New belt tensioner.
- Ebay half size radiator.
- all new seals, belts, oils and filter.
- P28 chipped ecu.
- 12.1+ CR.
That turbo does sound very tempting. But I will try and squeeze every bit of power from the NA D series, just for the fun of it. I believe there is nothing like having an NA motor screaming to high rpms!
I don't know if I'd want the KKK in my car. That's racist!
That said, if you have access to ethanol over there you could do a mild turbo and still run the high compression ratio. I don't plan going that high on it but I'm going to do a 10.5:1 turbo build myself on a z6. Or if you have a quick swap harness all set up in the engine bay you could always just build a motor then unplug and pop the new one in and see how you like it. Swap right back as needed if you decide you don't dig the turbo setup.
I don't know if I'd want the KKK in my car. That's racist!
That said, if you have access to ethanol over there you could do a mild turbo and still run the high compression ratio. I don't plan going that high on it but I'm going to do a 10.5:1 turbo build myself on a z6. Or if you have a quick swap harness all set up in the engine bay you could always just build a motor then unplug and pop the new one in and see how you like it. Swap right back as needed if you decide you don't dig the turbo setup.
Why You look at it like that, KKK turbines just has a wider compressor map, if You want something similar from Garrett, You need to make a hybrid (that's what I will do actually)
ps. I had that numbers with 10.9:1 CR on 98 octane fuel, now I will have 8.4:1 CR, because I don't want to run ethanol, I can't buy it in my town..
To Tadas: You could go till 250hp with stock rods, I wouldn't go higher if I want the engine to live longer..
It has been a while, and I have a few bits and things to update.
First, I have run into problems, my coolant leaked through an old hose and the engine kinda sorta overheated.
I did sort out the problem I think, but I will still have to change the head gasket, and that means I will probably be adding a 59300 comp cam, springs, intake mani and ported head.
Also, I did change a few parts out, I did put new front lower ball-joints, new steering arms, a modified rear strut bar - this made the steering feel much more alive, the car is planted.
I did put a front blacked out honda badge, ordered a set of sohc VTEC side decals and put new ignition wires because old ones shocked me a few times.
And you guys will love this, I got an OEM HONDA MIDWING. My gosh I kept asking the guy for it for almost a year now.
It is painted and on the car now, I simply love it.
Smaller things - I did change the interior lights to LED's, there is an oil leak, the tires rub on the inside of the front bumper, the power steering sometimes chirps, there are missing rear window rubber parts and other minor things like a need to change brake fluid to a new one, switch out a radiator back to half size and put in a better condition headlights from the other honda sedan that I bought for parts.
Oh, car also finally got polished.
Here are a few pics of things:
Lastly, the first show my honda will go to will happen the next weekend, so I need to hurry and get all this mess sorted out.
I will get you pics when it is all done.
So all in all the car is ALMOST show ready, and ALMOST enjoyable to ride. It is a true love and hate relationship, this b**** sometimes takes away all my time and money, but whenever I see it standing there all shiny with that new midwing, those wide fenders and that stance, hell it is worth every minute and every penny spent.
I have a few things to get done before I go to the show.
- Change the radiator and antifreeze, make a bracket for it.
- Respray rear Honda badge and wipers black.
- Stick new isolation material under the hood.
- Get OEM like stickers.
The progression of this wagon amazes me! One of my favorite builds! The only thing I have noticed that I would change or make different is maybe changing the shifter boot to black leather instead of matching material.
That brown interior. I still can not get enough of! I am obsessed with it.
That is exactly why I got another whole wagon, to make sure all the little bits and pieces of it are there, and nothing is missing. It will be as complete as possible.
So, you probably know that last summer my engine overheated, because it was 30C+ outside, I got stuck in a traffic jam, and I had a leaky radiator hose.
Head gasket blew, head got wiggly.
The time came and now I took the head off the engine.
Current plan is to get the head milled off and sent to a porting specialist.
Furthermore, I will have a custom intake manifold made, add a comp cam 59300 camshaft, BC racing stiffer valve springs, and maybe an adjustable cam gear.
Lastly, I will order all new radiator hoses as well as a slim fan, and have a custom radiator made, so that overheating would never become an issue again.
After I solve these problems, I will have the car back on the dyno.
I will also do some little things, such as rebuilding LMA's that cause ticking noises and other minor things.
I might even take and post pictures of all this if you guys want to see me back at work!
It has been almost a year since I have been away due to work reasons.
BUT I AM BACK!
First thing first, I plan on buying new tools to work on my wagon, and I will keep you guys updated.
Now the fun part - you know my engine overheated and that I took it apart.
Here is the past specs of the engine:
D16z6 (blown gasket) Engine:
- Head has been milled to be flat.
- Teikin PM7 75.5 pistons.
- NPR piston rings.
- Oem size head gasket 0.037”.
- 75.5 bigger bore.
- H22 Throttle body (60mm)
- Comp Cam 59300 camshaft.
- L.L.E crankshaft bearings.
- L.L.E rod bearings.
- New OEM intake/exhaust valve stem seals.
- GMB water pump.
- valve seating job.
- NGK BKR6E spark plugs.
- New spark plug wires.
- 3" intake pipe
- high flow pipercross filter.
- 2.25 exhaust all the way back.
- 4-2-1 Ebay exhaust manifold.
- 2 resonators, bigger muffler.
- Exedy clutch.
- Oil catch can (catches oil from pcv and head).
- New cluch release bearing.
- New belt tensioner.
- Ebay half size radiator.
- all new seals, belts, oils and filter.
- P28 chipped ecu.
- 12.1+ CR.
And here is the new and planned additions: - Head milling to flat. - Valve cover color change. - ARP cylinder head stud kit. - Head porting and polish (professional). - Port matching to Intake/exhaust manifold. - Comp cam 59300 camshaft. - BC racing single valve spring set. - AEM adjustable cam gear. - Custom made intake manifold. - LMA rebuild (for noise). - Distributor rebuild. - Rings and gaskets. - Mishimoto radiator hoses. - Custom radiator. - Slim radiator fan. - Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump. - Testing of fuel injectors. - Custom power steering bracket.
Tell me what you think!
I will add pictures of what progress has been made, and update this regularly, it might be a motivation for the other guys stalling their project just like I was.
Also, thank you all who have been working on their wagons and keeping up with their threads, it keeps me motivated, even if it has been such a long project!
So, I encountered a problem. Right when I was starting to get ready to put the head back on, I spotted that MY FRIKKIN SLEEVES STARTED TO RUST after standing for this long.
This might have to do with a fire that happened during the winter, hot and cold mixing or whatever the case was. But I have no choice but to redo the whole engine again.
First things first, I spent some money on new wrenching tools:
Then here comes the new parts:
And also all kinds of additional gaskets rubber bands and so on.
Further! We go to the engine removal. It took me frikkin 3 days to get the lower arm to get unstuck in order to remove the axle from transmission. But I did not give in.
I also got the head of the d16z6 properly ported flowed and matched with exaust and intake manifolds. Got the BC valve springs installed and the valve job too.
Next update will come with new and restored engine parts. Also, the old taiwanese bearings got rekt because some trash got into the engine somehow.
Comments
Considering that You can get used turbo already with wastegate cheap, I think it's possible that You can get below 500 euros easly and with proper exhaust manifold You can get nice and linear powerband.
This is what I currently have in the engine:
D16z6 Engine:
- Head has been milled to be flat.
- Teikin PM7 75.5 pistons.
- NPR piston rings.
- Oem size head gasket 0.037”.
- 75.5 bigger bore.
- H22 Throttle body (60mm)
- L.L.E crankshaft bearings.
- L.L.E rod bearings.
- New OEM intake/exhaust valve stem seals.
- GMB water pump.
- valve seating job.
- NGK BKR6E spark plugs.
- New spark plug wires.
- 3" intake pipe
- high flow pipercross filter.
- 2.25 exhaust all the way back.
- 4-2-1 Ebay exhaust manifold.
- 2 resonators, bigger muffler.
- Exedy clutch.
- Oil catch can (catches oil from pcv and head).
- New cluch release bearing.
- New belt tensioner.
- Ebay half size radiator.
- all new seals, belts, oils and filter.
- P28 chipped ecu.
- 12.1+ CR.
That turbo does sound very tempting. But I will try and squeeze every bit of power from the NA D series, just for the fun of it. I believe there is nothing like having an NA motor screaming to high rpms!
Next engine tho will be low CR turbo build.
That said, if you have access to ethanol over there you could do a mild turbo and still run the high compression ratio. I don't plan going that high on it but I'm going to do a 10.5:1 turbo build myself on a z6. Or if you have a quick swap harness all set up in the engine bay you could always just build a motor then unplug and pop the new one in and see how you like it. Swap right back as needed if you decide you don't dig the turbo setup.
Why You look at it like that, KKK turbines just has a wider compressor map, if You want something similar from Garrett, You need to make a hybrid (that's what I will do actually)
ps. I had that numbers with 10.9:1 CR on 98 octane fuel, now I will have 8.4:1 CR, because I don't want to run ethanol, I can't buy it in my town..
To Tadas: You could go till 250hp with stock rods, I wouldn't go higher if I want the engine to live longer..
First, I have run into problems, my coolant leaked through an old hose and the engine kinda sorta overheated.
I did sort out the problem I think, but I will still have to change the head gasket, and that means I will probably be adding a 59300 comp cam, springs, intake mani and ported head.
Also, I did change a few parts out, I did put new front lower ball-joints, new steering arms, a modified rear strut bar - this made the steering feel much more alive, the car is planted.
I did put a front blacked out honda badge, ordered a set of sohc VTEC side decals and put new ignition wires because old ones shocked me a few times.
And you guys will love this, I got an OEM HONDA MIDWING. My gosh I kept asking the guy for it for almost a year now.
It is painted and on the car now, I simply love it.
Smaller things - I did change the interior lights to LED's, there is an oil leak, the tires rub on the inside of the front bumper, the power steering sometimes chirps, there are missing rear window rubber parts and other minor things like a need to change brake fluid to a new one, switch out a radiator back to half size and put in a better condition headlights from the other honda sedan that I bought for parts.
Oh, car also finally got polished.
Here are a few pics of things:
Lastly, the first show my honda will go to will happen the next weekend, so I need to hurry and get all this mess sorted out.
I will get you pics when it is all done.
So all in all the car is ALMOST show ready, and ALMOST enjoyable to ride. It is a true love and hate relationship, this b**** sometimes takes away all my time and money, but whenever I see it standing there all shiny with that new midwing, those wide fenders and that stance, hell it is worth every minute and every penny spent.
He already said that the painter didn't want to do it.
Correct! I do however plan on doing the job myself.
Also, today I took out the headlight out of my sedan and put it in the wagon. They look much better.
Here is a shot of work being done:
It is always good fun to work on the car on sunday.
So the brake fluid got changed yesterday, and it seems like it makes a world of difference in stopping power.
Pedal feels firm and confident now.
For anyone not having changed their brake fluid in a long while I really recommend doing so and getting this fluid.
Also, ds2500 ferodo brake pads help a lot.
Oh and a video,
Tell me what you think about the sound. It is all motor sound, no exhaust.
[video]http://vid1315.photobucket.com/albums/t596/tadasbartkus13/Mobile Uploads/IMG_6854_zps32abe325.mp4[/video]
I have a few things to get done before I go to the show.
- Change the radiator and antifreeze, make a bracket for it.
- Respray rear Honda badge and wipers black.
- Stick new isolation material under the hood.
- Get OEM like stickers.
Hood with a bit of sound insulation
hood with full on sound deadening material that is heat resistant. It was a b*tch to find.
Custom rear strut bar that is a perfect fit for Shuttle.
More updates from the trip coming soon!
First and foremost I have passed the technical inspection and have gotten all the paperwork restored and completed.
What a joy it is to finally drive the wagon legally!
Oh, but I had to slap stock wheels on the wagon to pass the tech, because my tires still stick out of the wide fenders.
Here are the pics at tech inspection:
And a pic of completely new exhaust, it is 2.25" all the way, from 4-2-1 header.
It is super quiet, but I like it that way.
Also, an older picture of the new aluminium radiator being test-fitted. I will need to make proper brackets for it during the winter.
My friend sleeping in the car during car show. Girls sometimes get tired of your gearhead thoughts.
I got spotted by another friend heading from a car show.
Thats the best way to check your phone while driving!
Girlfriend taking care of the wagon!
Interior pics for the show.
And one more pic before I put my wagon away to the garage for the season.
I will post the rest of the pics from the 2 shows I attended next time. Oh and to do list for the winter. For now I wanna look for a car cover.
I've always wanted to do this - cover my project car and put it away for the winter.
I do have more pictures of my wagon from the show, but I have posted some of them in wide fender thread.
Here is the news - I bought another civic wagon rt4wd just to take all the little bits and pieces that my wagon is missing.
Also, to have another working gearbox and viscous couplier just in case mine gives out.
These things are getting much harder to find, and the one I got had all the little details I need.
P.s. it did good on the snowy lake!
That is exactly why I got another whole wagon, to make sure all the little bits and pieces of it are there, and nothing is missing. It will be as complete as possible.
I thought I would share them, because no one else understands better how cool these little bits are!
And my gf dressed in super winter clothing
My plan is to swap most of these to my main wagon!
My personal favourites are the 4wd steering wheel badge and OEM sunroof visor.
I have been looking at the stock car, and realized mine has so many small pieces and bits missing.
So yesterday I did a little removal and install.
I also installed 4 hood stops, I bet it will make a world of difference!
So, you probably know that last summer my engine overheated, because it was 30C+ outside, I got stuck in a traffic jam, and I had a leaky radiator hose.
Head gasket blew, head got wiggly.
The time came and now I took the head off the engine.
Current plan is to get the head milled off and sent to a porting specialist.
Furthermore, I will have a custom intake manifold made, add a comp cam 59300 camshaft, BC racing stiffer valve springs, and maybe an adjustable cam gear.
Lastly, I will order all new radiator hoses as well as a slim fan, and have a custom radiator made, so that overheating would never become an issue again.
After I solve these problems, I will have the car back on the dyno.
I will also do some little things, such as rebuilding LMA's that cause ticking noises and other minor things.
I might even take and post pictures of all this if you guys want to see me back at work!
I am not a real honda red guy, so I went with turtle/mint green!
Tell me what you think!!
It has been almost a year since I have been away due to work reasons.
BUT I AM BACK!
First thing first, I plan on buying new tools to work on my wagon, and I will keep you guys updated.
Now the fun part - you know my engine overheated and that I took it apart.
Here is the past specs of the engine:
D16z6 (blown gasket) Engine:
- Head has been milled to be flat.
- Teikin PM7 75.5 pistons.
- NPR piston rings.
- Oem size head gasket 0.037”.
- 75.5 bigger bore.
- H22 Throttle body (60mm)
- Comp Cam 59300 camshaft.
- L.L.E crankshaft bearings.
- L.L.E rod bearings.
- New OEM intake/exhaust valve stem seals.
- GMB water pump.
- valve seating job.
- NGK BKR6E spark plugs.
- New spark plug wires.
- 3" intake pipe
- high flow pipercross filter.
- 2.25 exhaust all the way back.
- 4-2-1 Ebay exhaust manifold.
- 2 resonators, bigger muffler.
- Exedy clutch.
- Oil catch can (catches oil from pcv and head).
- New cluch release bearing.
- New belt tensioner.
- Ebay half size radiator.
- all new seals, belts, oils and filter.
- P28 chipped ecu.
- 12.1+ CR.
And here is the new and planned additions:
- Head milling to flat.
- Valve cover color change.
- ARP cylinder head stud kit.
- Head porting and polish (professional).
- Port matching to Intake/exhaust manifold.
- Comp cam 59300 camshaft.
- BC racing single valve spring set.
- AEM adjustable cam gear.
- Custom made intake manifold.
- LMA rebuild (for noise).
- Distributor rebuild.
- Rings and gaskets.
- Mishimoto radiator hoses.
- Custom radiator.
- Slim radiator fan.
- Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump.
- Testing of fuel injectors.
- Custom power steering bracket.
Tell me what you think!
I will add pictures of what progress has been made, and update this regularly, it might be a motivation for the other guys stalling their project just like I was.
Also, thank you all who have been working on their wagons and keeping up with their threads, it keeps me motivated, even if it has been such a long project!
This might have to do with a fire that happened during the winter, hot and cold mixing or whatever the case was. But I have no choice but to redo the whole engine again.
First things first, I spent some money on new wrenching tools:
Then here comes the new parts:
And also all kinds of additional gaskets rubber bands and so on.
Further! We go to the engine removal. It took me frikkin 3 days to get the lower arm to get unstuck in order to remove the axle from transmission. But I did not give in.
I also got the head of the d16z6 properly ported flowed and matched with exaust and intake manifolds. Got the BC valve springs installed and the valve job too.
Next update will come with new and restored engine parts. Also, the old taiwanese bearings got rekt because some trash got into the engine somehow.