I reinstalled the VC this morning. To test I took it out on my barely snow covered driveway, set the ebrake and let the clutch out. The engine died! Tried again with more revs. The engine died!! Tried again with even more revs. The engine died!!! I know the front wheels will move the wagon with the ebrake set, had to do it recently when the brake wouldn't release. They should certainly spin on snow with the brake set. They didn't, the engine DIED!!!!! Until I can put the car on a lift to run the official Honda test, I'm declaring SUCCESS!
I have lots of PDMS left, I had to buy a gallon. Would like to sell most of the leftover, will keep enough for my other wagon. Anyone interested PM me. I can also put together kits with the seals if desired.
Not sure as to exactly what sequence of events led up to the "engine died" result.? Just a tip for "frozen" rear brakes, if moisture gets into the rear brake drum and freezes the shoe(s) to the drum an old trucker's trick is to take a good size hammer, reach under or access the inside of the brake drum and tap on the outer edge of the drum ( you don't have to remove tire), this works on the "big rigs" so would assume it would on our little wagons. I used to have this problem after driving in deep snow and then parking at below freezing temperatures....
Not sure as to exactly what sequence of events led up to the "engine died" result.? Just a tip for "frozen" rear brakes, if moisture gets into the rear brake drum and freezes the shoe(s) to the drum an old trucker's trick is to take a good size hammer, reach under or access the inside of the brake drum and tap on the outer edge of the drum ( you don't have to remove tire), this works on the "big rigs" so would assume it would on our little wagons. I used to have this problem after driving in deep snow and then parking at below freezing temperatures....
If the VC is working properly, the engine should stall if the clutch is engaged while in gear with the ebrake set. This is the essence of the official Honda test, without lifting the wheels off the ground. I mentioned the stuck brake episode because it proved that the front wheels would turn and move the vehicle with the ebrake locked before I repaired the VC.
I did free the ebrake by removing the wheel and tapping on the drum.
Aha! was a little confused. I am still trying to figure out why there is so much involved in calculating the proper VC fluid amount. Would seem to me if we filled the housing (may require duct seal or plumber's putty at bottom) then fill & measure amount of liquid required to complete fill, then subtract 14% of that volume it should be close to what is required. I watched the German VC video and of course I don't speak German, they used something similar to a postage scale to measure the weight ( I think) then added to the housing, but not sure why they kept adding more amounts? It seems that Honda has, in fact, seemed to complicate simplicity. Normally when something has "no user serviceable parts" they usually tack weld or crimp to prevent accessing anything. Earlier I mentioned the "microscopic" burrs on the plates and would agree with the comment about Honda misleading folks to prevent overhauling unit, would guess the plates are manufactured without finish and unpolished, hence microscopic burrs, might as well make lemonade,eh?
I am still trying to figure out why there is so much involved in calculating the proper VC fluid amount. Would seem to me if we filled the housing (may require duct seal or plumber's putty at bottom) then fill & measure amount of liquid required to complete fill, then subtract 14% of that volume it should be close to what is required.
I was thinking along similar lines, except using weight instead of volume. Assemble the coupling after cleaning, weigh it, fill it with water & weigh again. If I had a scale with the capacity and accuracy, I might have tried it.
Took the wagon down today and put it on a lift. The VC passes the official Honda test, the rabbit died! No, wait, wrong test. The ENGINE died! While on the lift, I measured the circumference of the tires. The rears are 1/2 in. smaller than the fronts. Not good. After driving about 20 miles at highway speeds, I checked the temp of the VC, it was just warm to the touch. I'm a happy man.
Now that we have snow, I thought I'd post an update on my VC rebuild. During the warm weather, I disengage the rear-wheel drive. This eliminates the potential hazards associated with my mis-matched summer tires. After rebuilding my VC, I thought I'd try running with the rear-wheel drive engaged (and my mismatched summer tires) to see if I could feel any difference. I could DEFINITELY feel the difference! The road to one of our favorite local watering holes has a long (4-5 mile) downhill grade. I regularly put the car in neutral and coast all the way, occaisionally using the brakes to control speed. This time, not only did I not need the brakes, I actually had to put it in gear and apply power to get over some of the rises and flatter spots. It was like driving with the ebrake partially engaged. That convinced me that I definitely need new, matched snow-tires for winter. Now that we have new, studded tires on both wagons, the drag no longer exists, and both wagons can climb my steep, slippery, snow-covered driveway without hesitation. I purchased a cheap, flexible 6 ft. tape off eBay and measured the circumference of my summer tires, the difference was about 1/2 in., more than twice the recommended maximum of 3/16. I'm sure that's what killed the VC to begin with.
Conclusions:
1. The rebuild was a complete success.
2. Having matched tires front and rear is CRITICAL to the life of your VC. If your tires aren't matched, disengage the RWD until you can get some matched ones.
I still have VC fluid available. PM me if interested.
I recently got in touch with STE and this is what their reply was
Since I'm located in Australia im going to try to have a faulty one in the US sent to them to save on Postage.
Will keep this updated
Good morning Sir:
I don`t have any cores for the Honda viscous coupler but I will ask my core guys if they can locate some, unless you can. I have several different viscosity fluids so it would only be a matter of o-rings or seals which I can have made locally. Price would depend on all those factors. If you have a core to send me for R&D I could work up a price, per each, per5,per10
Look forward to working with you on this
Dave Sr.
STE [URL="tel:800-883-6188"]800-883-6188[/URL] [URL="tel:714-956-4545"]714-956-4545[/URL] fax [URL="tel:714-635-3548"]714-635-3548[/URL]
I have an extra "good" one. If they don't have to destroy it for their research, I don't mind sending it out for a rebuild and then get it back when they are done.
I have an extra "good" one. If they don't have to destroy it for their research, I don't mind sending it out for a rebuild and then get it back when they are done.
I can't guarantee anything at the moment, I would rather send one there and let them do what they need in order to be able to rebuild these in the future. Thank you for the offer though!
Just a quick update from STE Couplers. Looks very promising
Hi:
Just got back in town, a long overdue time off. The coupler is all together and I hope to start testing today or tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes. Feels good on the bench test so I think it won`t take to many fluid changes to get it right.
Thanks for the opportunity to help
Dave H.
Hey guys, testing and R & D has been done on the viscous coupler that I sent to STE traction control. This has taken them a few months to do.
They have been able to successfully rebuild it and will now offer their services to the public. Cost is $200 + your core and you pay for shipping.
I'm glad I have been able to help out the wagon community and I hope this will be beneficial to you guys.
Based on what I spent for parts and fluid, this is a totally reasonable price. I would charge at least $300, considering the amount of time it takes plus the materials.
I am not affiliated with Tower Hobbies or the manufacturer Associated Factory Team, however for those looking for low volume (relatively inexpensive) sourcing, you can find the correct viscous fluid here:
Also, here is the website for STE Couplers provided by Grifty
Dave Sr
[/FONT]http://stecouplers.com/ [FONT="]1271 South Talt Avenue
Anaheim, CA 92806.
1-800-883-6188
714-956-4545 (Direct)
714-635-3548 (FAX)[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT=&]
I hope this helps.[/FONT]
Comments
I reinstalled the VC this morning. To test I took it out on my barely snow covered driveway, set the ebrake and let the clutch out. The engine died! Tried again with more revs. The engine died!! Tried again with even more revs. The engine died!!! I know the front wheels will move the wagon with the ebrake set, had to do it recently when the brake wouldn't release. They should certainly spin on snow with the brake set. They didn't, the engine DIED!!!!! Until I can put the car on a lift to run the official Honda test, I'm declaring SUCCESS!
I have lots of PDMS left, I had to buy a gallon. Would like to sell most of the leftover, will keep enough for my other wagon. Anyone interested PM me. I can also put together kits with the seals if desired.
If the VC is working properly, the engine should stall if the clutch is engaged while in gear with the ebrake set. This is the essence of the official Honda test, without lifting the wheels off the ground. I mentioned the stuck brake episode because it proved that the front wheels would turn and move the vehicle with the ebrake locked before I repaired the VC.
I did free the ebrake by removing the wheel and tapping on the drum.
I was thinking along similar lines, except using weight instead of volume. Assemble the coupling after cleaning, weigh it, fill it with water & weigh again. If I had a scale with the capacity and accuracy, I might have tried it.
Conclusions:
1. The rebuild was a complete success.
2. Having matched tires front and rear is CRITICAL to the life of your VC. If your tires aren't matched, disengage the RWD until you can get some matched ones.
I still have VC fluid available. PM me if interested.
I recently got in touch with STE and this is what their reply was
Since I'm located in Australia im going to try to have a faulty one in the US sent to them to save on Postage.
Will keep this updated
I can't guarantee anything at the moment, I would rather send one there and let them do what they need in order to be able to rebuild these in the future. Thank you for the offer though!
They have been able to successfully rebuild it and will now offer their services to the public. Cost is $200 + your core and you pay for shipping.
I'm glad I have been able to help out the wagon community and I hope this will be beneficial to you guys.
Based on what I spent for parts and fluid, this is a totally reasonable price. I would charge at least $300, considering the amount of time it takes plus the materials.
I am not affiliated with Tower Hobbies or the manufacturer Associated Factory Team, however for those looking for low volume (relatively inexpensive) sourcing, you can find the correct viscous fluid here:
https://www.towerhobbies.com/
[FONT=&]Tower Stock# ASCC5459 [/FONT][FONT=&]
Manufacturer Name: Associated Factory Team
[/FONT][FONT=&]Manufacturer Stock# 5459
Also, here is the website for STE Couplers provided by Grifty
Dave Sr
[/FONT]http://stecouplers.com/
[FONT="]1271 South Talt Avenue
Anaheim, CA 92806.
1-800-883-6188
714-956-4545 (Direct)
714-635-3548 (FAX)[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT=&]
I hope this helps.[/FONT]