This may be redundant but have you checked to make sure the 4 wheel drive shift lever (towing disengage) is in the proper position for 4 wheel drive.? It is located on the top of the transmission (very hard to see, look slightly behind the distributor and down to the top of the tranny), there is a 10mm nut that you have to loosen (Caution: just a couple of turns) and then the other 10mm bolt can be turned to engage/disengage 4 wheel drive. Just a thought.
Oh NO, Mr. Bill, sounds like someone before you didn't use the old "Lefty Loosy" "Righty Tighty" method. I remember the warning note that states, "Don't loosen the locking bolt to far, because is can be a major effort to repair", or some such. On the wagon I am trying to maintain at the moment I can't seem to get the lever to engage the four wheel selection, it has a "spongy" type rebound when I try to engage it, and something tells me that isn't normal. Wonder what your chances would be to try and spot or tack weld something to whatever is left of the bolt, long shot I know. You might be able to figure out another method of holding, or wedging the lever in the 4 wheel mode assuming you can move the lever.
Chances are the broken piece of bolt is not seized and you could probably unscrew it relatively easily. Then again, I have been wrong before!
I would imagine it would have to be seized to break in the first place.... I was considering trying to cut a phillips head into it and use an impact screwdriver to try to back int out. don't know.
Sounds like your problem, while a bummer, may not stop the 4 wheel engagement, fingers crossed. Thanks for the tip on moving the selector, I tried "rocking" the car but had it in gear and pushing on the bumper, Neutral position of shifter makes more sense.
I have been using a mixture ( 50/50) of charcoal starting fluid and automatic transmission fluid on my old Ford tractor to break loose old rusty bolts, seems to work better than WD-40, PB Blaster etc. if you can occasionally spray the lever assembly for a few days it may help break loose the "stuck". On another note, not sure what shape your wagon is in, but one of mine rusted out at the rear wheel wishbone, the "A" frame collapsed and the wheel folded out, luckily I was just backing out of the parking lot when it happened.
Not yet, really glad to hear yours seems to be working, I think I would check the outside of the VC for any "leaks", looks like you might have found a simple way of "testing" the VC also.
At the moment my 99 Civic is down for timing belt problems and since that is a daily driver my "hobby honda's" will have to wait for awhile. Never have figured out why the little wagons were not more popular, for me it is a great little utility vehicle. My experience, for what it is worth, never, ever let a Honda overheat, the distributor "ignitors" were a source of trouble and the Main Power Relay was undersized and the solder joints were pathetic.
Might be a good idea to take a few digital photo's of all running gear and where needed put punch marks or match marks to aid in reassembly, this might save a lot of time as far as balancing issues. Those ziplock bag are great for small parts and you can write on them as to where they came from. Also from the school of hard knocks is make a list of what order you take things apart, made the mistake of "bagging" parts, etc, but then forgot the reassembly order, cost me hours and hours of frustration. If possible apply lots of penetrating oil a few days before dis assembly and always wear safety goggles, (saves hours of washing gunk out of your eyes).....
:shock: I have found more information on some of the issues we are having with our "Vicious Viscous" Couplers. Please take with several grains of salt or salt substitute.
VC's life span seems to run between a low of 40,000 miles (60KM) to a high of 125,000 miles (200Km). Depending on several factors, the number one cause of VC fluid failure (turns to a gel like substance) is "Stress", this stress is most often caused by: Improper tire pressures, Different tire diameters (tires should be within .08in (2mm) to .16in (4mm). Tire tread depth should be within .04 to .08 in (1 to 2 mm) *These seem to me to be pretty "tight" as far as wear but the overall idea is to make sure all four tires are as close being the same as possible..
Naturally the best bet would be never, ever mix tire brands or even different models from the same manufacturer. Needless to say it would probably be really hard on a VC to use the Mickey Mouse spare for any distance.
I read a small excerpt from a Mechanical text book that may help in solving the difficulty in determining the proper fluid level when refilling, it seems these little buggers are filled by weight not volume, of course this process would put it out of reach for the "shade tree" mechanic, other sources range from completely full, to a critical 80% to 86% with the optimum being 84% to 86% full.
Another little nugget was the plate construction, the plates have microscopic "burrs" on their surfaces when they are manufactured again something we couldn't do at home.
Some of the failure indications were; Hard steering, Tires "scuffing" on turns, especially backing up, When turning a sharp corner it feels as though you were applying the brakes. These symptoms must be addressed as soon as possible because a VC failure can lead to really, really extensive damage to everything from the trans axle to any or all of the running gear.