Neville....born from speed.



  • SPWSPW Senior Wagonist

    Good work! Keep the updates coming. Love the convenience of instagram/facebook but there is something about forums that keeps me coming back even though its slow around here.

  • Looks really nice! It's great that you're bringing back updates to the forum, it needs it to stay alive! Once I get back to work on my Shuttle I'll do the same.

  • Clutch is on, and trans is back together. I'm a little concerned about the shifter cable and a stage 3/4 clutch pressure plate so I have another on standby just in case.

    Exedy OEM flywheel replacement, 14lbs

    ACT 6 pad sprung race disk 621211, For 1987 Prelude Si (Allows for correct spline match to 88 trans while being 220mm to mach 91 flywheel)

    ACT P/PL MaXX Xtreme H023XX

  • So this is the exhaust thats coming off. Its a mix of an HKS Sport exhaust for the Hatchback (used the muffler and the resinator) and some other 2.25" piping and a flex.

    I cant find any butt shots with it on, but it looks like the EF mounting due to the hanger positions. I'll be putting it up for sale if anyone semi-local to WI is interested.

    Just got my bungs for my valve cover which I got BNIB from Honda. It's actually got some flash on it that I need to clean up.

    And then I just have to cut and weld on this TIAL v-band mount.

    Oh, I also need to make a 3" exhaust. King Motorsports said they could make one for about $1200, but I think I can do it for half that in parts so I'm going to have a crack at it.

  • this build is coming along nicely, i never built an engine before but I'm really interested to attempt it cause i wanna learn too. im not sure if it's just me but the pictures aren't working

  • Hmm, all the pics still work for me. They were originally linked from my google photos so they should still be active.

    Here is a direct link to the folder for reference:

    Just got all my parts for the exhaust:

    • 3" ebay stainless exhaust kit.
    • 4 stainless vband clamp kits
    • stainless hangers
    • stainless flex pipe
    • 12" vibrant resonator
    • Vibrant Streetpower 3" muffler
    • o2 bungs
    • heat shielding wrap
    • poly hanger bushings

    Really happy with the wall thickness and quality of the stainless kit. All total parts came to about $450.

  • The link works good I can see all the pictures in that link that you’ve posted. Are you keeping or selling that mixed HKS exhaust ? Also that EBay kit looks great I’m interested on how it’ll sound I need an exhaust for my red wagon.

  • I’ll be selling the mixed hks exhaust, once I get a for sale post together.

  • Alright I’m interested in it I’m from Chicago depending on how far in Wisconsin you are if you don’t mind I can probably pick it up

  • Progress on the exhaust has been pretty slow. I just got in two 3" shipping tubes and plan on mocking up a down pipe, but I'm waiting on my friend to weld the wastegate flange to my header, and then the AN bungs on the valve cover. I did mock up the space I have available for a radiator and its...not a lot. 18x9x5.5. Gonna need to get something custom. Boo.

    Pics as soon as I make any actual progress.

  • superhatchsuperhatch Moderator
    edited April 2020

    So the AN10 bungs and header are done and I did some mock up last night using the downpipe I had handy. It's still tight and I will 100% need a custom radiator at some point. Right now the Mishimoto EG will have to do the gangster lean.

    Things left to do:

    • Mount breather chamber and run lines.
    • remove Ebay BOV mount and weld on Tial mount to charge pipe
    • Mount and wire Hondata boost controller.
    • Tidy up wiring.
    • Run vacuum lines.
    • Cut and weld AN16 fittings to radiator. (AN16 modified thermostat housing and radiator neck on head coming from SpeedFactory)
    • Mock up downpipe to correct dimensions.
    • Weld new angles for wastegate pipe.
    • Figure out routing and weld exhaust.
    • Send out valve cover for wrinkle coating.
    • Remove driveshaft??
    • Get a tune.
    • Get custom radiator made.

    Not too much left. I'm debating removing the driveshaft after we get the exhaust routed so that it will be easier to tow, and I won't have to worry about driveline issues on the dyno.

  • @superhatch looking like it’s about their. Check marking one thing at a time, looks good better in person. I remember you saying you wanted to kind of oval out the exhaust if I’m not mistaken for clearance issues if any occurs, wrinkle coating is going to look great I wanna ask what color but I’ll wait I don’t want to spoil it haha getting closer, I would do the same take the driveshaft off just to be on the safe side

  • It looks like go-autoworks has a 14.5x10.5x5.75 radiator which I just mocked up and would fit snugly, but worth a try.

    @Vtec_Shuttle I'm just going to go with black. lol The red one I already have is a different red than the OE paint on the wagon and I think it just looks off a bit in person. FYI you can still buy a BNIB Y8 valve cover from Honda :)

  • @superhatch black will look very nice, I never new they still have Y8 valve cover noted

  • I was amazed at how many BNIB honda parts were available for EGs.

  • SPWSPW Senior Wagonist

    Can't wait to see this guy running! Have you looked into speedfactory radiators? If you want it mounted in that corner it just might fit there. If not, it can be mounted sideways.

  • @SPW look at that adorable radiator haha wow i never knew you can it that small mind blow

  • @SPW I just ordered the go-autoworks rad, but I'll check out speed factory if that one doesn't fit. That one in your build looks like it would be perfect for me.

    I;m assuming it's this one:

    It's almost the same dimensions as the go-autoworks so we'll see how it fits!

  • BillBoardBillBoard council member

    Wowzer. Looking good under the hood!

    I like that people seem to be using the website again? Thanks Quarantine!

  • SPWSPW Senior Wagonist

    Nice! go-autoworks does do some good work. They are almost identical in size. I think you should be able to get away with it. I'm interested to see how your going about on mounting it.

    Super cute !?

  • Just got my rad from Go-Autoworks/CSF. It fits more perfectly than I could imagine and it came with AN16 fittings so now I just have to wait for SpeedFactory to get done modifying my thermostat and upper coolant port to AN16 fittings and I should be gtg!

    With this in place I have a ton of room for the down pipe so I can start doing a mock up of that and once that's done I can make brackets and bolt down all of the front end pieces. I feel like my entire front end is zip ties right now.

  • The radiator looks really good fits snug in the corner, getting a little closer

  • SPWSPW Senior Wagonist

    Fits like a glove!

  • Now that II have my radiator situation fixed it's time to mock up my downpipe. Took about an hour or so, used a 3" shipping tube and some painters tape! I will need to get some flush bolts/nuts for the transfer case to fit a 3" pipe through that area.

  • superhatchsuperhatch Moderator
    edited May 2020

    Now that the weather had warmed up I've been trying to do one thing per day on the car.

    Thursday I replaced the Innovative rear mount with a Hasport 92A racing mount. The idea is that I'll likely not be running a front mount and the very solid rear mount along with the softer (but still poly) side mounts will keep vibration to a minimum but keep the motor from torquing the driveshaft. I hopped on a Midnight Oil and they said a rear 92A was all I needed, we'll see!

    Friday was running gauge wiring through the firewall, pulling the ECU to solder in the components for the Hondata boost controller and pulling the CD player from the lower part of the console. I'd like to put the gauges here and I have an idea how to do it.

    The shape

    I'll need to make is going to require a jig, or form of some sort which

    I'm going to work on tomorrow.  But the basic idea is to take a 8x9

    piece of black plexiglass and then do this: . That should allow me to

    mold the piece into the curve of the lower console as seen below:

    Saturday I took the day off and did yard work but today I made some progress on the coolant lines. I had ordered some AN16 lines and connectors and went to work trying to make it work. With the coolant nozzle options for the head I don't have a lot of choices so I had the AN16 bung welded onto the nozzle. I would have liked it closer, but it is what it is.

    The thermostat to to the bottom of the radiator is an easy run and worked great, the upper hose is another story. The AN16 adapters are BIG, and there isn't a lot of room even if I were to use a standard rubber hose, so this was the best option I could come up with without putting a kink in the lines.


    I might order another 90* piece and give this layout a try:

    Any other ideas of how I could run the coolant lines? One other thought was booth adapters pointing down and running the line down and then back up right behind the radiator. I can also do it with less line buy running it down below the thermostat line, but I'm not sure if there is an issue having the top line running below the bottom line. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

  • SPWSPW Senior Wagonist

    That's the first thing I noticed when I got my radiator in. Those fittings are huge. That's a super tight fit. Can that radiator be mounted horizontal? Probably would hit the manifold it looks like. If it could it would probably help with the routing of the hoses. Maybe even a tucked radiator?

  • superhatchsuperhatch Moderator

    I recently struggled my way through some AN10 fittings for my catch can, and then when it came time to put on my AN16 fittings for the coolant lines I realized that the process wasn't the same. With the larger hose and fittings it was basically impossible to push the hose with the nylon wrap into the fitting so here is what I ended up doing: 

    Step 1: cut the nylon wrap about 1" from the top of the hose (distance based on fitting requirement). I used a box cutter and made about 10 light pulls on the nylon. I did this 4 times around the hose.



    Step 2: use a needle nose to roll the nylon off the hose down about 1". That seemed like a good distance for the AN16, the AN10 ended up being about .75". After you pull it back cut away as much loose nylon as you can.



    Step 3: Tightly wrap some electrical tape around the exposed nylon and then spray with a tiny bit of your favorite lubricant and use your finger to wipe it all around the tape area.



    Step 4: slide on the hose side of the fitting. 


    Step 5: Enjoy cool AN fitting lines!


  • superhatchsuperhatch Moderator

    @SPW The radiator won't fit sideways because of the downpipe. I'm going to try it like this for starters and then adjust if needed.

  • Even with all that's going on in the world it's been a busy summer for me and progress has been slow but I still managed to get some stuff done.

    One of my projects was to make a 3 gauge center console using the JDM lower console. To accomplish this I bought a piece of 1/4" black plexiglass, put it on a cookie sheet with tin foil underneath at 350 degrees for about 15 minutes. I then took the lower console piece and covered it in tin foil to prevent any melting, then took the plexi out of the oven and held it on the console piece to create the shape. I then had to do some cutting and grinding to make it fit, but for V1 it's not too bad.

    V2 is going to change the angle a bit and use some different positioning for the gauges. You can see that the main portion is a bit concave and so it's actually kinda hard to see the gauges if not looking directly at the plate. 

    Next up was working on changing the board over to wideband and wiring in the gauge output wires.

    Finally we made some progress on the exhaust. My welder friend did his first pie cut piece and I think it turned out pretty well! Next up is tacking up the rest of the exhaust and then it's on to the Dyno!!


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