Neville....born from speed.

245

Comments

  • I'm gonna shoot for around 400+ hp. Which probably doesn't require sleeving but I really want a bulletproof motor.

    I was going to go for an A6 build, but two things changed my mind.

    1. There are just more parts our there for Z6 builds.
    2. I'm going to be buying a mold for a clear D16 timing belt cover and make a run of them. I need to have one on the motor in my car and the mold doesn't cover the cover for the A6. :P
  • Nice nice, where did you come across a mold? I'm planning on molding some parts myself, but larger body panels. Though that might be a few years away project. Just curious as to what type of mold you'll be working with.

    I definitely hear you about the bulletproof motor. I'd rather have something with a "conservative" amount of horsepower that I know would last me decades, vs something that was high power but I was worried about when it's gonna blow up.
  • Whats this?

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  • That is the piece Im most excited about.

    4.25 turns lock to lock down to 2.85 with that rack and pinion!

    GTG - I tracked down the guy who had those covers up on Ebay at one point via various old threads and asked if he was going to make another run and he said no because he opened a tool design business but I could buy the mold if I was interested. It seemed like a good investment so I pulled the trigger.
  • That's awesome!
  • A couple updates:

    1. Picked up the mold. This thing weighed about 400 lbs!

    243.jpg

    2. Got this beauty in. :)
    244.jpg

    3. I'm playing with the idea of a B18C B2D swapped RT. Just rolling that around in my head for a while.
  • So it looks like Swap Shop Racing, who worked with Evolution racing on the original B2D kit said there is a 0% chance of getting any more. The first few runs that were made of the B2D were 'prototypes' and there was never any hard CAD drawings or anything that can be used to replicate them. The guys who did the designs also dont work there anymore so he said even if I was going to pay double they couldn't do it.

    B Series with an RT4WD civic transmission is no longer a possibility. :(

    D-Series build continues.
  • Were there even any pictures of what it was? I'm not familiar with motor to transmission swaps like this, but I am familiar with CAD.
  • The only pic on their site is of a B20 in a CRX. There aren't any clear shots that I can see. I suppose you could buy a D2B and use that as a base and then create a new adapter plate, but I think the flywheel was also special and I don't want to make a custom flywheel. :P

    http://www.swapshopracing.com/contents/en-us/d696.html

    There is a link to the kits so you can get an idea of what they look like.
  • Washed and waxed before she goes in for the winter:

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    Found a local Z6 head with dizzy for $200. Stripping down this weekend.

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  • BillBoardBillBoard council member
    ^damn, she looking good. All this work being done to her, makes me miss her. Its like when you see your ex girlfriend that you dumped and she's all hot as fuck and bangs millionaires now. danget.
  • Picked up some Enkei RPF1's in silver this past weekend and I'll be starting on pulling the motor and trans tonight.

    I found a running-but-not-in-great-shape manual RT4WD which I'll be picking up this weekend as a donor for the auto/manual swap. This week I'll pull my motor/trans, next week I'll detail the engine bay, the following weekend I'll do the swap!
  • wow,can't wait to see the finished product!
  • I am very interested and will be following that trans swap. Something I want to do at some point as well.
  • TadasTadas Wagonist
    I was thinking about the same thing, an option to make my meaty wagon turn "faster". When I tried spirited driving it just takes too much wheel turning to get into the corner properly. My question is have you installed the rack and pinion and how did it turn out? I am seriously debating on ordering the same thing!
  • I haven't yet. I'll be pulling the trans/motor tonight I hope and then after that I'll pull the rack and have a go at it. I'm thinking about just buying a whole new rack ($150 maybe?) and then tearing apart the old one so I know what I'm doing when I replace the new one with the Quaife stuff.

    I ordered from King Motorsports btw. I couldn't order from Quaife directly.
  • TadasTadas Wagonist
    I see, please keep us informed of how it goes! Our wagons are like boats to steer, LTL 4.5 we have compared to evo's 2.3 LTL. I know we got a bit more steering angle but still I bet the ratio is way different.
  • This arrived at home yesterday. Manual swap starts tonight. :)

    20160214_185526.jpg

    It's basically a well running engine and transmission (needs 1st gear syncro and reverse syncro) in a rusted to hell frame and 90% broken suspension.

    Also it's RWD only. No idea whats going on there.
  • Out with the Auto.

    4EX05g4WeCMh9BV6p_NnPQdgrX4Q7hrLwssd1ehVtpu1to7R2UwSVq_7qyIDIEC3EJw35w=w1920-h1080-rw-no


    y_AM3_r1xNbZ5skOFCLceHMPBLcnolG-38A33QdDf8eMW1dIicusB7RhozewsDTsUMN8LQ=w1920-h1080-rw-no

    That's about 3h worth of work so far. All pieces and parts labeled and put in baggies. AC fully removed. Tonight I'll be dropping everything and then the rest of the week will be detailing the engine bay. I've decided to get the manual trans rebuilt at a local shop so I won't be up and running as soon as I wanted, but that's ok...still a lot of winter left.
  • Very cool! A lot of work but it will be well worth it.
  • PoozMcgueePoozMcguee New Wagonist
    Very Nice ! After my auto swap, i had to connect the 2 heavy gauge black wires that were going to the auto shifter so it thinks its in park to start, Also had to drill a clutch hole.
    Sort out a plate with a hole for the shifter, to cover the hole where the manual shifter comes up. (use the one from the parts car i guess)
    If you find your battery going flat over about 2 days, and it makes a click when you disconnect the battery, just remove one of the wires on the ignition barrel (by itself on the side) Something to do with needing the key in to move the shifter i think. (was a drain on the brakelight/hazard fuse i think for that, you'll find the one, it'll click again when you disconnect it etc) like a solenoid click.
    Also found it easiest to drop the whole steering column down from the dash to get the pedals in.
  • 50.jpg

    Some new parts arriving.

    Once it warms up I'll get cracking on putting everything in. Right now my garage floor has 2 A6's, a B16A2 block, Z6 head and manual trans hanging out. I need to purge! lol
  • superhatchsuperhatch Moderator
    Parts are coming in slowly. Header should be here today and that's the last piece I need to get the install going.

    Cleaned the engine bay this weekend:

    3.jpg

    I'm moving in a different direction though. After some thought I've decided to build an NA Z6. In the short term I'll be putting in the stock A6 as I'm getting the Z6 built. I should be getting the car back together in the next few weeks. I swapped out the manual transmission cables and took out the AT shifter so progress is being made!
  • superhatchsuperhatch Moderator
    Header arrived!

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  • BillBoardBillBoard council member
    holy moly... loving the progress!!
  • arries289arries289 Wagonist
    That is a wild looking header! Wonder how much heat that baby is going to put in the engine compartment? You going to wrap it? Good job on the build, SH!
  • superhatchsuperhatch Moderator
    arries289 wrote: »
    That is a wild looking header! Wonder how much heat that baby is going to put in the engine compartment? You going to wrap it? Good job on the build, SH!

    I haven't thought about wrapping it yet. I ran a Bisimoto header in my last wagon and head never seemed to be an issue that I could tell. I thought that maybe this one would work with the RT trans but I think it's going to hit a little. It comes unflanged so re-welding shouldn't be too much work. But I've got to get the exhaust custom welded to work with the RT body, and weld up the high flow cat so I'm sure I'll end up paying a grip for all the exhaust welding I need done.
  • ShwagoneerShwagoneer Band Wagon
    This wagon is crazy clean I just wish my damn front end lined up properly on mine lol
  • superhatchsuperhatch Moderator
    Of note...the HKS exhaust needs a LOT of modification to fit. For the most part I used the axle back and the resonator and then used 2.25" piping for the rest of the run. The Hatchback version doesn't work at all for the RT for a variety of reasons. Even the way the muffler sits is different between the two models.
  • superhatchsuperhatch Moderator
    Shwagoneer wrote: »
    This wagon is crazy clean I just wish my damn front end lined up properly on mine lol

    Thanks! That credit really goes to @Billboard for keeping it so clean. It needs a little body work near the rear arches but I'm hopefully putting my own touches on the wagon so that I can consider the torch passed from Bill to me soon. :)
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