have any of you guys that have lifted your cars had an alignment done? were you able to get within specs up front (+/-1 degree of camber)?
i cant seem to get rid of the positive camber my car has up front. im starting to wonder if something happened to the attachment points on the chassis at some point. ive had 3 different sets of spindles on the front and all gave me postive camber. ive also tried 3 sets of uca's and a different set of lca's. ive got 1 degree of postitive camber even with a 3 degree spc balljoint installed. i really dont want to stack camberkits to fix this issue, lol.
im not really lifted per say. setup is kyb agx struts and springs from a eg, and ex knuckles.
... I wanna run 195/75/14 bfg all terrains on my rt.
while i think those tires would look very badass on a wagon, they weigh 13lbs more than a regular all season tire...on each corner. i wasnt willing to give up what little power i had and throw mpgs in the garbage for looks. while not near as cool looking, i got toyo studless snows instead. just going from a 195/75/14 to a 185/60/14 made a huge difference in acceleration and there was only a few lbs difference. i couldnt imagine the difference with 10 more lbs on each corner draining hp. not an issue for everyone, but thought id at least mention it to you.
and damn trevor. wtf is going on with this car? im at a loss.
no one else with a lifted wagon has had thier car aligned??
lmao...no and rude, hahaha. actually that side is just a smidge better than unrolled side.
thing that surprises me is that if stuff was bending due to abuse, i would think it would bend in my favor and gain me some negative camber. guess im going to have to stack camberkits
would love to hear from anyone else that has done any of these lift ideas where thier alignments end up in front.
thanks man. thats interesting. i wonder wtf is going on with my car?? if i can lower a wagon 3" and not run into camber issues, youd think i would be able to be a little higher than stock and be able to get back to zero's. this really confuses the hell out of me.
if you used oem bushings, did you clock your trailing arm bushings accordingly when you replaced them?
thanks man. thats interesting. i wonder wtf is going on with my car?? if i can lower a wagon 3" and not run into camber issues, youd think i would be able to be a little higher than stock and be able to get back to zero's. this really confuses the hell out of me.
if you used oem bushings, did you clock your trailing arm bushings accordingly when you replaced them?
I used energy bushings when I did them. All i have to work with is a rear adjustable upper arm in the back. I did spacer where the trailing arm actually bolts to the frame. I've got those 2 inch spacers in there with longer bolts. Bone stock up front. I want to get some adjustable upper arms to bring the camber a bit negative just for personal preferences but meh.
ok, ya, energy suspension bushings arent clockable. prolly a good choice for the lifted cars.
and i have the +/-3 degree spc adjustable balljoints up front on some 90-91 a-arms. they are maxed out to gain negative camber, but i still have .02ish degrees of positive camber on each front wheel and im maybe an inch higher than stock...at the absolute most. just doesnt compute its like i need some longer lca's.
Is there a good axle to use in a lifted wagon? I have had the DA Integra axles so far (from autozone)..and I blew through my pass axle after a few thousand miles. It also loves to pop out of the transmission. Its one thing around town but AAA doesnt do free tows when I am 350 miles away in the Colorado backcountry
Are you replacing the locking washer (Not sure of the exact name) that is on the end of the axle when you change them out? It prevents them from pulling out under normal conditions but you can pry it out of there with a screwdriver or a pry bar when replacing the axle.
Yeah the new axles always come with a new one so Im positive I replaced that. I am thinking I need to get proper RT axles..but part numbers are iffy in this thread so I want to 100% confirm or see if theres something else I should run http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?8749-Wagon-RT4WD-Axles/page5
i run actual wagon axles. they're the same cost just usuall require special order. the integra axles are about a quarter inch shorter than the actual wagon axle. that quarter inch goes a long way in my experience.
i run actual wagon axles. they're the same cost just usuall require special order. the integra axles are about a quarter inch shorter than the actual wagon axle. that quarter inch goes a long way in my experience.
Thanks! Where did you get yours from? I am worried that they just list regular civic/teg axles as the RT axles at autozone (just with a different part # even tho its the same) or other parts sites..I want to make sure I actually get the real deal
Thanks! Where did you get yours from? I am worried that they just list regular civic/teg axles as the RT axles at autozone (just with a different part # even tho its the same) or other parts sites..I want to make sure I actually get the real deal
Took a gamble on the autozone RT axles since I had a giftcard. They are def longer than the DA axles. So far much better driving them...hopefully they actually hold up for a long time.
Out of curiousity, would the list of accord/integra parts work with a 85 wagon 4wd?
I dont believe so. I believe the front is the same as my 87, which is a torsion setup and spring/strut in the front, then a seperate shock and spring in the rear. There is a guy here on the forum who lifted one....poke through the build threads.
Comments
Define "strut spacers"
i cant seem to get rid of the positive camber my car has up front. im starting to wonder if something happened to the attachment points on the chassis at some point. ive had 3 different sets of spindles on the front and all gave me postive camber. ive also tried 3 sets of uca's and a different set of lca's. ive got 1 degree of postitive camber even with a 3 degree spc balljoint installed. i really dont want to stack camberkits to fix this issue, lol.
im not really lifted per say. setup is kyb agx struts and springs from a eg, and ex knuckles.
while i think those tires would look very badass on a wagon, they weigh 13lbs more than a regular all season tire...on each corner. i wasnt willing to give up what little power i had and throw mpgs in the garbage for looks. while not near as cool looking, i got toyo studless snows instead. just going from a 195/75/14 to a 185/60/14 made a huge difference in acceleration and there was only a few lbs difference. i couldnt imagine the difference with 10 more lbs on each corner draining hp. not an issue for everyone, but thought id at least mention it to you.
and damn trevor. wtf is going on with this car? im at a loss.
no one else with a lifted wagon has had thier car aligned??
thing that surprises me is that if stuff was bending due to abuse, i would think it would bend in my favor and gain me some negative camber. guess im going to have to stack camberkits
would love to hear from anyone else that has done any of these lift ideas where thier alignments end up in front.
My front is at positive .3 on both sides. I'm running stock upper control arms.
total lift is 3-4 inches. give or take. i've never actually measured without the larger tires so i'm estimating.
here is one of the finished sheets of one algnment...well i'll post the before and then after haha
I have since fixed my rear toe issues. The trailing arm bushings were toasted and throwing weird numbers.
if you used oem bushings, did you clock your trailing arm bushings accordingly when you replaced them?
I used energy bushings when I did them. All i have to work with is a rear adjustable upper arm in the back. I did spacer where the trailing arm actually bolts to the frame. I've got those 2 inch spacers in there with longer bolts. Bone stock up front. I want to get some adjustable upper arms to bring the camber a bit negative just for personal preferences but meh.
and i have the +/-3 degree spc adjustable balljoints up front on some 90-91 a-arms. they are maxed out to gain negative camber, but i still have .02ish degrees of positive camber on each front wheel and im maybe an inch higher than stock...at the absolute most. just doesnt compute
Thanks! Where did you get yours from? I am worried that they just list regular civic/teg axles as the RT axles at autozone (just with a different part # even tho its the same) or other parts sites..I want to make sure I actually get the real deal
got mine through napa
what honda/acura has the longest suspension? how many inches would i get from each?
integra Da
integra dc2
civic eg
civic wagon
accord
i used the same setup as 503 with accord fronts and da rears but i want to try something different this time around.
i plan on lifting a del sol. i want about 2.5" suspension lift to clear some bigger tires and have some more suspension travel.
i figure this is the best place to ask. i learned some good info from here when i had my wagon
I dont believe so. I believe the front is the same as my 87, which is a torsion setup and spring/strut in the front, then a seperate shock and spring in the rear. There is a guy here on the forum who lifted one....poke through the build threads.