Couldn't find the rear strut mounts anywhere. Got all the pieces from my parts manager for a bit over $100. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have my lift installed and I'll be able to report how the Accord springs work.
...so I go to put the struts together, and the springs are way too big diameter-wise. The inside of the spring pocket measures at only 4". I have to find a spring 4" or slightly smaller, which means all the ones I listed won't work. Back to the drawing board...
you need to remove the spacers. That's the one thing wrong with your method of lifting the wagon. Relocating that pivot without moving the other three locating points is putting you in a bind.
We've got a local that did the lift w/o the spacers... makes me nervous personally
I've had a set of new rear springs on intergalactic back order through Acura for 3 months now. I just got an email saying they were canceling my order and sending me a refund check. Does anyone know the dimensions of the rear Integra springs? I tried asking the Acura people and they won't tell me.
I've had a set of new rear springs on intergalactic back order through Acura for 3 months now. I just got an email saying they were canceling my order and sending me a refund check. Does anyone know the dimensions of the rear Integra springs? I tried asking the Acura people and they won't tell me.
Not sure of rates on a DA, but you can still get DA springs from Acura, apparently:
I also need to get some front and rear springs, but I'll probably just look through Ground Control's boneyard or order some Eibach's with their recommendations. I'll let you know what I come up with. I'm also looking at Odyssey springs as a possibility, just whatever I can get away with to maximize lift and maintain some level of comfort. I was inspired by this post:
I also recommend when you finish this you check your bushings frequently. I have no idea how quickly some of the worn out bushings in the suspension will wear out for good with the lift.
To minimize the chance of this, tighten all components at ride height, not at full droop.
i.e... when you get to the point that all bolts are in after getting everything beat into place, just leave them untightened. Take a jack and place it under your rotor or control arm, then jack up the hub to be about where you expect the components will sit when the car has wheels and is sitting on the ground. At that time, tighten everything. This will minimize twisting torque against the bushings when the car is at rest, and lessen it under compression over bumpy roads.
Overall, everything is pretty maxed out with the Accord fronts on, so this is very important.
I found out today that '91 Accord front struts are the exact same dimensions. Only place that has those is Rock Auto, and they're in Europe. I'm getting antsy, so I pulled the trigger on those. If that doesn't work, I'll give some of the ones you posted above a shot, oddomatik. Thanks for the info.
I found out today that '91 Accord front struts are the exact same dimensions. Only place that has those is Rock Auto, and they're in Europe. I'm getting antsy, so I pulled the trigger on those. If that doesn't work, I'll give some of the ones you posted above a shot, oddomatik. Thanks for the info.
RockAuto is US-based, you might be looking at their KYB Euro products. They have a few in the US depending on what you're looking for but many are non-stock and need to be ordered (presumably from out of country). Here, for example, are Raybestos 2.2L Accord springs:
I'm about to pull the trigger on some '98 Odyssey front springs, and I'll swap my wagon springs to the rear. I'll then decide if I need to get some taller rear springs.
So my lift has been shelved, for various reasons. As some may already know, I can confirm that Odyssey springs work well and offer a bit stiffer ride.
What caused me to shelf the lift? I only got 1.25-1.5" of lift when all was said and done, and experienced some major wobble under acceleration. After returning back to stock, the wobble was still there, so it was not due to the lift, but rather as a result of the process of lifting. I am pretty sure I bent an axle somehow (even though I was careful). I removed and attempted to straighten the axle, and the wobble has somewhat diminished.
Another thing I had issues with was the rubbing at droop. The uprights/knuckles were well into the spring at droop. This was not noticeable on the street, but offroad there would be loud clanging noises when trying to turn in some cases. That was the knuckles momentarily binding on the springs, then popping free.
When I'm ready financially to retackle the lift, I'll look into possible differences in Accord struts. It's possible either A) the Accord I picked from had struts from a different model (they have Honda PNs on them), or the trim level I picked from has shorter struts.
I will likely be looking into taller knuckles, adjustable radius arms, and extended axles when tackling this next time. I am toying with the idea of swapping my GC coilovers and innovative competition traction bar (adjustable radius arms) from the CRX to see what kind of lift we can get. Probably best for mocking things up.
All righty. I got the Accord springs in and they fit perfectly. Almost. I failed to take into account that the front springs have to support the weight of an entire drivetrain. So while it fits, there's a fender gap between the quarter panel and tire you can stick your head in. Literally. The parts counter guy did it when the wagon was on the ground. So it has a bit of a nose down stance to it, it's lifted. It actually rides much better than it did. The original springs and struts must've been THAT bad off. The only issue I've run into so far is the right front tire rubs the inside fender liner at full left lock. E tires are hilariously set in on the body now as well. I'm thinking some wheel spacers may be in order. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow.
Also, oddomatik, I noticed the same spring binding as you describe when I threw my fronts on while it was on the lift. It looks like you could grind that block that hangs off the back of the front knuckle down some for clearance.
Has anyone else had a problem running or not running the rear spacers? I'm hoping to have enough room in my garage ove the next month or so... And I'm torn between the accord suspension swap, or building cups on my top hats like a spacer..
After getting some adjustable rear toe links, replacing my already knackered front axles, and just about every bit of my suspension, here it is. It's so tall in the rear, one of the parts counter people can fit his whole head inbetween the quarter panel and tire while it's on the ground.
So far, it's still driving normally. It's just very bouncy.
Since I work at a dealership, I'm trying to get my hands on a set of 14" x 5.5" steel wheels from a later model Civic. We get them in a lot with curb rash and minor denting. The manager sells them for $15, or what he'd get for them in scrap value. I've got one so far. Once I get a set, I think I'm going to get a set of these: http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire-selector/category/truck-tires/all-terrain-t-a-ko/tire-details#techspecs
in 195/75/14
So I am in the middle of lifting my RT and the Accord springs do give 2" of lift up front but they hit the knuckle really hard on full droop. To the point of creating a hard bind and potentially bending a strut. Yes I did grind the ABS sensor lug off the back of the knuckle for extra clearance. This is hitting below that point.
I did some testing and with the stock smaller diameter wagon spring you can get 1.25" of additional droop over stock and then the spring starts touching the knuckle. If you get out the grinder and remove the 1/16" of casting flash from the backside of the knuckle you can just get 1.5" of droop.
So an Accord spring at 2" of droop makes a hard bind. To me that is not acceptable.
How have you all worked around that or do you just run it with binding at full droop? Did I miss something?
Maybe I missed this in the thread, but is anyone dropping the cross members to regain some geometry? I've only JUST started looking at this and know its common when doing subarus, so just wanted to touch on that. Thanks guys.
Long story short, you can either buy some spacers for your stock struts, get struts meant for another model like I did, or go nuts (in the most awe inspiring way I've ever seen) and weld a whole second floor to it like bam-bam did.
Comments
I decided to pull the trigger and get the '00 Accord springs. As soon as I find some rear strut mounts, I'll let everyone know how they fit.
We've got a local that did the lift w/o the spacers... makes me nervous personally
Not sure of rates on a DA, but you can still get DA springs from Acura, apparently:
http://www.acurapartsnow.com/oem-part/acura/integra-sedan/1993/ls/5-speed-manual/chassis/rear-shock-absorber/spring-rr/52441sk8a22
Call your local dealer and see if they can get them, or order from acurapartsnow.
These threads might also prove useful:
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/44-suspension-performance/339916-honda-spring-rates-reference-material.html
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/18-suspension-brakes/49444-spring-coilover-specs-5.html
I also need to get some front and rear springs, but I'll probably just look through Ground Control's boneyard or order some Eibach's with their recommendations. I'll let you know what I come up with. I'm also looking at Odyssey springs as a possibility, just whatever I can get away with to maximize lift and maintain some level of comfort. I was inspired by this post:
http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=42672908&postcount=9
Also, what about pulling some good DA springs from a junkyard?
EDIT: Also found this: http://www.tein.com/tech_info/a32.html
To minimize the chance of this, tighten all components at ride height, not at full droop.
i.e... when you get to the point that all bolts are in after getting everything beat into place, just leave them untightened. Take a jack and place it under your rotor or control arm, then jack up the hub to be about where you expect the components will sit when the car has wheels and is sitting on the ground. At that time, tighten everything. This will minimize twisting torque against the bushings when the car is at rest, and lessen it under compression over bumpy roads.
Overall, everything is pretty maxed out with the Accord fronts on, so this is very important.
RockAuto is US-based, you might be looking at their KYB Euro products. They have a few in the US depending on what you're looking for but many are non-stock and need to be ordered (presumably from out of country). Here, for example, are Raybestos 2.2L Accord springs:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1029060&cc=1167106
They have both front and rear.
I'm about to pull the trigger on some '98 Odyssey front springs, and I'll swap my wagon springs to the rear. I'll then decide if I need to get some taller rear springs.
What caused me to shelf the lift? I only got 1.25-1.5" of lift when all was said and done, and experienced some major wobble under acceleration. After returning back to stock, the wobble was still there, so it was not due to the lift, but rather as a result of the process of lifting. I am pretty sure I bent an axle somehow (even though I was careful). I removed and attempted to straighten the axle, and the wobble has somewhat diminished.
Another thing I had issues with was the rubbing at droop. The uprights/knuckles were well into the spring at droop. This was not noticeable on the street, but offroad there would be loud clanging noises when trying to turn in some cases. That was the knuckles momentarily binding on the springs, then popping free.
When I'm ready financially to retackle the lift, I'll look into possible differences in Accord struts. It's possible either A) the Accord I picked from had struts from a different model (they have Honda PNs on them), or
I will likely be looking into taller knuckles, adjustable radius arms, and extended axles when tackling this next time. I am toying with the idea of swapping my GC coilovers and innovative competition traction bar (adjustable radius arms) from the CRX to see what kind of lift we can get. Probably best for mocking things up.
So far, it's still driving normally. It's just very bouncy.
http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire-selector/category/truck-tires/all-terrain-t-a-ko/tire-details#techspecs
in 195/75/14
I did some testing and with the stock smaller diameter wagon spring you can get 1.25" of additional droop over stock and then the spring starts touching the knuckle. If you get out the grinder and remove the 1/16" of casting flash from the backside of the knuckle you can just get 1.5" of droop.
So an Accord spring at 2" of droop makes a hard bind. To me that is not acceptable.
How have you all worked around that or do you just run it with binding at full droop? Did I miss something?
i'm going to assume somewhere in those 49 pages is some sort of drop.
yes, in effect it's a body lift. Dropped everything 4"
This is where you fail.
He takes the time to document the process. Yet you're too lazy to skim through it.
Fucking fail.
Think I am going to do strut spacers on the stock springs for a 1.5" lift. Should be plenty to clear the 195/75r14 All-Terrains.