Be careful with posting charts like that! I've seen a lot of them that are dead wrong.
However, I will verify that all of those are correct, though note that "Integra" is ONLY for the Type-R model, and I'm not going to mention anything about the accord, because some of those are for the 5 door only.
So I know this is a fairly old thread but wanted to post up and see if anyone else is running into the problems I'm having. I purchased a set of calipers/brackets/rotors from another member on here already machined to fit. When i put them on i noticed they fit but the bracket is definitely not centered on the rotor but it does work (I assume this is how it works for everyone). This is causing the bracket to sit quite far out from the hub and as a result I am having trouble getting any of my wheels to fit. I have a set of the 14" stock steelies and 15" mini cooper wheels. The stock steelies hit on the top of the bracket (in the red circle) and the mini wheels hit right across the arch that ties the top and bottom together.
I was able to just touch up the top of the bracket with a grinder a little (removing a very minimal amount of material) and make the steel wheels fit but it is really close. I am weary of grinding on the connecting arch though for strength reasons. Has anyone else run into this problem? Are my brakes going to crush like a soda can and send me to my death if I grind down the rib on that arch a little bit to clear the wheels? I really don't want to buy some new wheels as I just recently bought the mini wheels. I guess I could just go back to the old brakes but I got these so I'd really like to run them.
Things are slow at work today so I've been reading lots about this... Found some threads on honda tech and did some more thinking and it sounds like wheels with 45mm offset don't like to work with the big brakes. But I got thinking and based on how un-centered my rotors are in my brackets I think I could space them out a tiny bit to get them more centered and push my wheels out a little more and maybe clear the bracket. Now I'm sure the correct thing to do would be to try and find some really thin wheel spacers but I did a little searching and didn't come up with much. But we do have 1/2" hardened grade 8 washers here at work which measure about 3/32" think so I grabbed 8 of those and I'm thinking if I slip those in behind my rotors it might just give me the right amount of spacing to center better in the brackets and get my wheels on.
Do not ever use washers to space a wheel! Though I harp on the size of a wheel's contact to the disc, washers are too small.
That is the 10.3" Integra/Civic EX rotor correct? I ran this on my EK a long while ago, and the 14s that came with my car from the factory cleared with no issues, they were 14x5.5", maybe the ones you are using are shaped differently, but the ones I had bowed out enough to clear (they were meant for the 8 "spoke" plastic wheel covers). Hope this helps?
Do not ever use washers to space a wheel! Though I harp on the size of a wheel's contact to the disc, washers are too small.
That is the 10.3" Integra/Civic EX rotor correct? I ran this on my EK a long while ago, and the 14s that came with my car from the factory cleared with no issues, they were 14x5.5", maybe the ones you are using are shaped differently, but the ones I had bowed out enough to clear (they were meant for the 8 "spoke" plastic wheel covers). Hope this helps?
My 14" steelies off my 2000 civic work. The rt4wd 14" wheels fit with some grinding. The 15" mini wheels are the biggest problem now.
I was talking about putting the washers between the hub and rotor not the rotor and the wheel. Just thinking about it to me spacing a wheel with just washers does seem like a bad idea but behind the rotor it seemed like it would be more reasonable to me. Maybe I'm crazy.
Since you seem to be the definitive expert on all thing civic brakes could you make any comment on grinding the arch a bit. Maybe just taking off a 1/16" at most. I have to check and see what I would need to remove to make the wheels fit but I was thinking that might be enough and wouldn't hurt the structural integrity of the brackets.
You'd be alright to grind that bit, the brackets are pretty beefy and would be okay. Washers between the rotor and hub still isn't enough contact area, also the rotor won't be hubcentric anymore. Its much safer to have the brackets milled, PM me and you can send me your brackets for machine work, as I own a milling machine capable of doing this.
Alright I'll abandon the washers as a permanent fix. Just use them to figure out how much spacer I need or how much I would need to grind. My brackets were already milled the 3mm to fit so i don't think I would want to take any more off that side. If it's not much material I'll probably just grind a little off the calipers if it's a little more than I want to grind I'll track down some real (at most 1/8") wheel spacers to get them to work.
1/8" wheel spacers are okay with aftermarket wheels because most all of em use wheel centering rings and the rings will will center with 1/8" wheel spacers, but any more than that and you may have issues, and past 5mm or more, you may have to swap to extended studs which will require more work. You can grind the brackets a bit, remember that stock 9.5" civic brake brackets don't even have front hangars (thats the part that is hitting)
Just grind the caliper &/or hangar.It's not that much.
:arrow: I would skip the 1/8''(3mm) spacer.I had considered that ,but upon looking @ the thread engagement.Honda already calculated that to the minimal .
Don't machine anymore off the brkt(from your 3mm).My machinist did NOT feel comfortable doing that.
Understandable. I wouldn't want to machine off anymore. I've never noticed a difference in feel from a milled bracket, and have never had a part in any kit I've ever made fail.
Hi guys ,i'm trying to do this conversion but i've problem with the upper retainer
the number 10
What have you modified to avoid that hurts against the rotor??? :roll:
Its called the "pad spring" and assuming your bearings aren't shot, this part does not hit. Also, that picture is not of a type-R caliper if that helps.
Something is wrong. What pads were those ordered for? Where did you get your brackets milled? Can I see a picture of the brakes head on? I've done this setup 8 times and grinding the caliper isnt necessary. Did you grind the caliper bracket on the front?
ok, Ive got 23t brackets and 25t brackets, 17CL15VN calipers and 10.3 in rotors and type-r pads, my question is should I stick with the rt4wd booster and 13/16 master? Or should I get a rt4wd booster with 15/16 master or possibly the 1 inch master and booster? and would I need to change the prop valve? I'm keeping rear drums and the car will me daily driven only. It doesnt seem like the 23t and 25t are different so does it matter which ones I use?
Something is wrong. What pads were those ordered for? Where did you get your brackets milled? Can I see a picture of the brakes head on? I've done this setup 8 times and grinding the caliper isnt necessary. Did you grind the caliper bracket on the front?
I've dismantled the calipers from a DC2,the pads are the DC2,the disc is from an EG6>Ø262-10.3".The brackets was milled by a machinist and they are 3.2mm milled.The problem is not on the disc centering,is in disc outer diameter and calipers inner diameter
ok, Ive got 23t brackets and 25t brackets, 17CL15VN calipers and 10.3 in rotors and type-r pads, my question is should I stick with the rt4wd booster and 13/16 master? Or should I get a rt4wd booster with 15/16 master or possibly the 1 inch master and booster? and would I need to change the prop valve? I'm keeping rear drums and the car will me daily driven only. It doesnt seem like the 23t and 25t are different so does it matter which ones I use?
13/16 MC(4wd booster) is fine.I'd change over to the 15/16(same size as in Type R) when your current one starts to leak.It's better & looks better 'cuz larger fluid reservoir .1" is good ,but a hassle to change out the booster.
Prop valve doesn't need to be changed till you install rear disc.
Something is still wrong. The 10.3" Integra discs don't protrude that much to the 23T bracket. Did your machinist grind the inner part of the bracket? Where it would hit the knuckle around the bearing housing area? You know this has to be grinded too, right?
And by DC2, you mean Integra Type-R, cause the other 94-01 Teg brakes are totally different. Are you from outside the US?
I have a random question.... This setup calls for the Type R caliper, bracket, and pads, and for the LS (or equivalent) rotor.
The bracket has to be milled, and from what I can tell it's because it would otherwise rub the friction area of the rotor. (right?)
So anyway, Other than the fact that the Type R rotors are 5 lug... why wouldn't they work? The reason I ask is, I believe for only one year (94 i think) the type R was a 4x100 bolt pattern. Would those rotors work without all the modification? Or were the 94 brakes totally different?
:edit: the four bolt type R could be JDM only. Not sure. But I do know they DO exist.
ah i see now that 5 lug Type R rotors are also about 20 mm larger... the mounting point for the bracket on the spindle must be farther out than a wagon spindle...
No. the mounting points for the caliper are identical relative to the center of the knuckle on ALL Hondas with 10.3" or larger factory brakes, and I mean every single model. ANY honda with 9.5" or smaller stock brakes has the mounting tabs located farther inward.
Lets make this easier cause I've done myt homework. Leave any parts belonging to the 4x114.3 Type-R alone.
Comments
Good deal! This brake setup kicks ass, doesn't it?
And
However, I will verify that all of those are correct, though note that "Integra" is ONLY for the Type-R model, and I'm not going to mention anything about the accord, because some of those are for the 5 door only.
I was able to just touch up the top of the bracket with a grinder a little (removing a very minimal amount of material) and make the steel wheels fit but it is really close. I am weary of grinding on the connecting arch though for strength reasons. Has anyone else run into this problem? Are my brakes going to crush like a soda can and send me to my death if I grind down the rib on that arch a little bit to clear the wheels? I really don't want to buy some new wheels as I just recently bought the mini wheels. I guess I could just go back to the old brakes but I got these so I'd really like to run them.
Any ideas?
That is the 10.3" Integra/Civic EX rotor correct? I ran this on my EK a long while ago, and the 14s that came with my car from the factory cleared with no issues, they were 14x5.5", maybe the ones you are using are shaped differently, but the ones I had bowed out enough to clear (they were meant for the 8 "spoke" plastic wheel covers). Hope this helps?
My 14" steelies off my 2000 civic work. The rt4wd 14" wheels fit with some grinding. The 15" mini wheels are the biggest problem now.
I was talking about putting the washers between the hub and rotor not the rotor and the wheel. Just thinking about it to me spacing a wheel with just washers does seem like a bad idea but behind the rotor it seemed like it would be more reasonable to me. Maybe I'm crazy.
Since you seem to be the definitive expert on all thing civic brakes could you make any comment on grinding the arch a bit. Maybe just taking off a 1/16" at most. I have to check and see what I would need to remove to make the wheels fit but I was thinking that might be enough and wouldn't hurt the structural integrity of the brackets.
:arrow: I would skip the 1/8''(3mm) spacer.I had considered that ,but upon looking @ the thread engagement.Honda already calculated that to the minimal .
Don't machine anymore off the brkt(from your 3mm).My machinist did NOT feel comfortable doing that.
the number 10
What have you modified to avoid that hurts against the rotor??? :roll:
http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda ... k_03=19764
I've installed the brakes but i've grinded a bit the caliper and noy installed the upper retainer
13/16 MC(4wd booster) is fine.I'd change over to the 15/16(same size as in Type R) when your current one starts to leak.It's better & looks better 'cuz larger fluid reservoir .1" is good ,but a hassle to change out the booster.
Prop valve doesn't need to be changed till you install rear disc.
And by DC2, you mean Integra Type-R, cause the other 94-01 Teg brakes are totally different. Are you from outside the US?
The bracket has to be milled, and from what I can tell it's because it would otherwise rub the friction area of the rotor. (right?)
So anyway, Other than the fact that the Type R rotors are 5 lug... why wouldn't they work? The reason I ask is, I believe for only one year (94 i think) the type R was a 4x100 bolt pattern. Would those rotors work without all the modification? Or were the 94 brakes totally different?
:edit: the four bolt type R could be JDM only. Not sure. But I do know they DO exist.
Lets make this easier cause I've done myt homework. Leave any parts belonging to the 4x114.3 Type-R alone.
Well, I'll take your word for it. You seem to know your stuff. The name says it all.