just got a set of 91 accord wagon calipers today at pull-a-part (local salvage yard). got them for $8.48 each!!! the bracket says 25t but bolts up with no problems, no to get new rotors and ss lines!
The bracket will fit no problem (all hondas use the same bolt pattern) but if you don't machine them down then its not going to center the caliper on the rotor! You are going to be dragging a pad on the rotor.
You guys said that I would need EX knuckles to get the 11.1" disk on our wagons, but EX's are hard to come by, so why not DA integra knuckles they should work just as well right? If not, why? I don't understand.
You guys said that I would need EX knuckles to get the 11.1" disk on our wagons, but EX's are hard to come by, so why not DA integra knuckles they should work just as well right? If not, why? I don't understand.
You guys said that I would need EX knuckles to get the 11.1" disk on our wagons, but EX's are hard to come by, so why not DA integra knuckles they should work just as well right? If not, why? I don't understand.
DA's are a bit longer iirc
the driveshafts are too.
Explain a little more, I don't understand what you mean by longer?
*edit*
I also found a guy who used DX knuckles and was still able to have 11.1" brakes.
Any reasons why this will not work with our wagons? http://www.honda-tekh.com/thread?id=3867 <<link
when you guys say knuckles, you mean track rod ends?
im going by the driveshafts being longer, so the TRE's would also need to be too? as theres generally a longer distance from the hub to the underside of the engine bay
just got a set of 91 accord wagon calipers today at pull-a-part (local salvage yard). got them for $8.48 each!!! the bracket says 25t but bolts up with no problems, no to get new rotors and ss lines!
The bracket will fit no problem (all hondas use the same bolt pattern) but if you don't machine them down then its not going to center the caliper on the rotor! You are going to be dragging a pad on the rotor.
yeah my brother is a wiz on the cnc @ his work and is making custom 1/8" adapter pates to sit on the hub behind the rotor so no need to machine caliper. will post pix when he is done
just got my 92-94 vigor calipers same bracket number and caliper number
went to kragens bought my 93 ls rotors and 97 ITR pads
about to find me a 12 pack of blue moon and get down this weekend im not sure if i wanna take the bracket to be machined or if i should jst try to grind it my self. hmm 8)
main reason i woudlnt do the above 11" rotor thing is because the rotors have to be redrilled i just dont swing with more holes in a rotor for somereason. if im not comfortable with these 10" idk what will make me happy im usually content with stock brakes and low end torque heres a secret!
i ride with the ebrake cable up one click- instant pedal response!
just got a set of 91 accord wagon calipers today at pull-a-part (local salvage yard). got them for $8.48 each!!! the bracket says 25t but bolts up with no problems, no to get new rotors and ss lines!
The bracket will fit no problem (all hondas use the same bolt pattern) but if you don't machine them down then its not going to center the caliper on the rotor! You are going to be dragging a pad on the rotor.
yeah my brother is a wiz on the cnc @ his work and is making custom 1/8" adapter pates to sit on the hub behind the rotor so no need to machine caliper. will post pix when he is done
let us know how it goes! i had this thought, but thought the lug nuts would be a bit short. they seem to be pretty short at the moment. so i guess this is why they machined the carrier rather than spacer behind the disc...
You can machine(milling) or grind.I read of 1 guy that ground.Seam to work for him.Just try to do it as parallel ,even & straight as possible.
It is be possible to NOT machine,grind or use spacers by using thinner inner pads.This can be done by using junkyard pads(meaning used pads) or different types or brands of pads.Like I found that OEM pads are much thicker than aftrmkrt. Ceramic pads.This works fine as long as you keep a eye on the pads.
The BAD of NOT machining(milling),grinding or using spacers from not so bad to worse:
1)Inner pads will wearout way b4 outer pads.
2)Inner pad may lock up to the rotor when u bolt it up unless you use a thinner pad.
3)It may rub against the inner wheel.
4)As the inner pad wears out .The metal portion of the inner pad will fall out of the caliper brkt. race & you CRASH :x :!:
The BEST way is to use spacers.I don't like the milling (grinding)for several reasons.The milled caliper brkt mounting tabs become thinner making it weaker where it bolts to the knuckle & the part you just milled is also threaded.It's like using a thinner nut.That lack of Safety I don't want to play with.Using the spacers is only about $50-$100(usd) more than milling, includes the longer studs.Stud installation is fairly easy with minimal tools.
For "Street & Show" milling is fine.That lack of Safety I don't want to play with.No hate mail please.You decide.
Wheel spacers don't usually work 'cuz you need to grind down the O.D. to fit it under the rotor hat.There are usually too many holes in them to have any metal left after you grind it down.
:idea: You can make your own.Depending on the caliper/rotor combo you'll need a 1/8-3/16" thick alum.You don't even need a tight fit for the spindle nut center.Most peeps used the 1/8" spacer.I had to use a 3/16"(4.7mm) spacer for even pad wear.
I'm with you on the 4-lug thing.I went a step further & did the BIG Brake on the 9.5" rotors. :arrow: I could run 13" wheels.
thanks SiWagon
i certainly see your point. i dont think it will matter that much, and machining is the cheaper option. if i grind I can do it myself, im sure a fabricator wont charge much to mill it down 3.2mm
spacers are about £10 for a pair, and for the hassle and ease of upgrade, im going to choose grinding. purely because if i need to change nuts, i may as well just get EF9 front hubs etc.
The spacer would go between the rotor and the hub. The hub is what your wheel studs are pressed into. Instead of a spacer you could just put washers on before you install the rotor. You might have to get longer screws that bolt the rotor to the hub, the countersunk screws that are a pain to get off. Or you could just pay an automotive machine shop $20-30 to mill off the 1/8 of material and call it a day.
My opinion would be to mill so you don't have to give up the strength in the wheel studs. If you worry about the bracket thickness after milling, measure the thickness of the the milled bracket and compare that to the thickness of the stock bracket on your wagon. Not much difference. I wouldn't grind the brackets, the pads need to contact the rotor at the same time or you lose your braking pressure, grinding is too sloppy. Completely unsafe in my book.
To each his own, I say do it properly now so you don't have to worry about it later.
There is no loss of strength if you go with longer studs.Another way to look at the bracket issue is to imagine the bracket with 1/8-3/16" milled off.Doesn't look like much left.On top off that there's a lot less threads left too.Several other racers shared my view.This was confirmed when my machinist said he WOULD NOT recommend milling,when I originally asked him to mill the bracket.He does a lot of machining for racers."It's your brakes :!: ",he said.
:arrow: Well...There you go you have both sides of the story.You make the call.
On other cars I'd run wheel spacers,but NOT on the Civic.Even with a 1/8" wheel spacer it DOESN'T leave much threads engaged to the nut.Run longer studs with wider (hub or wheel)spacers.
i am running a prelude/legend 11.1" brake upgrade on DA front knuckles. i shaved the inside of the 23T bracket coz i dont have access to a milling machine. it works just fine even with a few hard stopping braking. The wagon nose dived though coz its has massive front brakes. I may need to change the prop valve to 40-40 to even it out. Thats my 0.02 cents there.
i am running a prelude/legend 11.1" brake upgrade on DA front knuckles. i shaved the inside of the 23T bracket coz i dont have access to a milling machine. it works just fine even with a few hard stopping braking. The wagon nose dived though coz its has massive front brakes. I may need to change the prop valve to 40-40 to even it out. Thats my 0.02 cents there.
wagon............4ever........................
yeh, we do this upgrade on Civic's over here. they need about 2mm shaving off. or the better option is using MG ZR 160/ZS 180 front calipers - they bolt striaght onto EF9/EF8 hubs, with no mods needed
do you have any pics of your brake upgrade ricefighter?
i am running a prelude/legend 11.1" brake upgrade on DA front knuckles. i shaved the inside of the 23T bracket coz i dont have access to a milling machine. it works just fine even with a few hard stopping braking. The wagon nose dived though coz its has massive front brakes. I may need to change the prop valve to 40-40 to even it out. Thats my 0.02 cents there.
wagon............4ever........................
yeh, we do this upgrade on Civic's over here. they need about 2mm shaving off. or the better option is using MG ZR 160/ZS 180 front calipers - they bolt striaght onto EF9/EF8 hubs, with no mods needed
do you have any pics of your brake upgrade ricefighter?
Comments
Going to use EF9 discs/rotors too.
The bracket will fit no problem (all hondas use the same bolt pattern) but if you don't machine them down then its not going to center the caliper on the rotor! You are going to be dragging a pad on the rotor.
:? I'm confused.Aren't EF9 calipers just Civic 2WD calipers?
EF9 discs are 262mm, same as EF8/DA6/EG6/EK4 and early spec DC2
The other Civic 4g HB's have 242mm front brakes.
DA's are a bit longer iirc
the driveshafts are too.
Explain a little more, I don't understand what you mean by longer?
*edit*
I also found a guy who used DX knuckles and was still able to have 11.1" brakes.
Any reasons why this will not work with our wagons?
http://www.honda-tekh.com/thread?id=3867 <<link
im going by the driveshafts being longer, so the TRE's would also need to be too? as theres generally a longer distance from the hub to the underside of the engine bay
i could be wrong, im just thinking out loud
yeah my brother is a wiz on the cnc @ his work and is making custom 1/8" adapter pates to sit on the hub behind the rotor so no need to machine caliper. will post pix when he is done
went to kragens bought my 93 ls rotors and 97 ITR pads
about to find me a 12 pack of blue moon and get down this weekend im not sure if i wanna take the bracket to be machined or if i should jst try to grind it my self. hmm 8)
oh cuz the pads will drag? wont they just wear with time?
i ride with the ebrake cable up one click- instant pedal response!
let us know how it goes! i had this thought, but thought the lug nuts would be a bit short. they seem to be pretty short at the moment. so i guess this is why they machined the carrier rather than spacer behind the disc...
You can machine(milling) or grind.I read of 1 guy that ground.Seam to work for him.Just try to do it as parallel ,even & straight as possible.
It is be possible to NOT machine,grind or use spacers by using thinner inner pads.This can be done by using junkyard pads(meaning used pads) or different types or brands of pads.Like I found that OEM pads are much thicker than aftrmkrt. Ceramic pads.This works fine as long as you keep a eye on the pads.
The BAD of NOT machining(milling),grinding or using spacers from not so bad to worse:
1)Inner pads will wearout way b4 outer pads.
2)Inner pad may lock up to the rotor when u bolt it up unless you use a thinner pad.
3)It may rub against the inner wheel.
4)As the inner pad wears out .The metal portion of the inner pad will fall out of the caliper brkt. race & you CRASH :x :!:
The BEST way is to use spacers.I don't like the milling (grinding)for several reasons.The milled caliper brkt mounting tabs become thinner making it weaker where it bolts to the knuckle & the part you just milled is also threaded.It's like using a thinner nut.That lack of Safety I don't want to play with.Using the spacers is only about $50-$100(usd) more than milling, includes the longer studs.Stud installation is fairly easy with minimal tools.
For "Street & Show" milling is fine.That lack of Safety I don't want to play with.No hate mail please.You decide.
:idea: You can make your own.Depending on the caliper/rotor combo you'll need a 1/8-3/16" thick alum.You don't even need a tight fit for the spindle nut center.Most peeps used the 1/8" spacer.I had to use a 3/16"(4.7mm) spacer for even pad wear.
I'm with you on the 4-lug thing.I went a step further & did the BIG Brake on the 9.5" rotors. :arrow: I could run 13" wheels.
i certainly see your point. i dont think it will matter that much, and machining is the cheaper option. if i grind I can do it myself, im sure a fabricator wont charge much to mill it down 3.2mm
spacers are about £10 for a pair, and for the hassle and ease of upgrade, im going to choose grinding. purely because if i need to change nuts, i may as well just get EF9 front hubs etc.
just my input/thinking out loud.
My opinion would be to mill so you don't have to give up the strength in the wheel studs. If you worry about the bracket thickness after milling, measure the thickness of the the milled bracket and compare that to the thickness of the stock bracket on your wagon. Not much difference. I wouldn't grind the brackets, the pads need to contact the rotor at the same time or you lose your braking pressure, grinding is too sloppy. Completely unsafe in my book.
To each his own, I say do it properly now so you don't have to worry about it later.
:arrow: Well...There you go you have both sides of the story.You make the call.
On other cars I'd run wheel spacers,but NOT on the Civic.Even with a 1/8" wheel spacer it DOESN'T leave much threads engaged to the nut.Run longer studs with wider (hub or wheel)spacers.
wagon............4ever........................
yeh, we do this upgrade on Civic's over here. they need about 2mm shaving off. or the better option is using MG ZR 160/ZS 180 front calipers - they bolt striaght onto EF9/EF8 hubs, with no mods needed
do you have any pics of your brake upgrade ricefighter?
they still ok to use ?
ill try to post some pics after thanks giving.
wagon..................4ever................
If they use the 23t bracket, I think it will work...