so i did this but i didnt grind my pads down and im not sure whats going on i bled the brakes back to front.
i got oil on the pads during the install are they useless?
car doest stop for shit lol
so i did this but i didnt grind my pads down and im not sure whats going on i bled the brakes back to front.
i got oil on the pads during the install are they useless?
car doest stop for shit lol
dont you need to grind the pads so they will fit in, around the disc..? do they fit in then?
yes... oil on the pads will screw them up, the mix of chemicals wont be good. take them out and soak in brake cleaner. but you might want to get new ones. cheap enough for peace of mind. brakes are something you dont want failing on you!
So I ground down the pads apparently I manGed to. Bend one of the pads the metAL seperAted from the ceramic maybe I didn't bleed them enough still the pedal isn't firm when I apply the brAkes . Does Ne one know what could b going on? How far did you grind the pads down? Could my caliper be bad
So I ground down the pads apparently I manGed to. Bend one of the pads the metAL seperAted from the ceramic maybe I didn't bleed them enough still the pedal isn't firm when I apply the brAkes . Does Ne one know what could b going on? How far did you grind the pads down? Could my caliper be bad
yeah i grinded wayy more than that , and they still make noise.. maybe my bracket wasnt milled correctly... no no pics as of now but i plan to work on it today before work so maybe around then i could snapa few pictures
yeah i grinded wayy more than that , and they still make noise.. maybe my bracket wasnt milled correctly... no no pics as of now but i plan to work on it today before work so maybe around then i could snapa few pictures
Sometimes the springs in the top of the caliper rub the rotor, if you pull your calipers off you might see the spring up inside the caliper, it looks kind of like and upside down W. Also, did you upgrade your master cylinder? Could be the cause for the weak pedal, bigger calipers need more fluid pushed to them.
If it's the clip I'm thinking of you can buy it new or pulled from a junker.
Yes klum it probably pressed in at a angle .So no full engagement & using the rotor hat as the braking surface.Klum needs to grind off enough material to clear the hat.In some cases this is up to the pad surface.If klum bent the pad...I'd say the pad should be replaced.It's not the MC.Klum has the larger 4WD MC.Klum should pull the caliper to check for smooth operation & if everything is still straight.
If it's the clip I'm thinking of you can buy it new or pulled from a junker.
Yes klum it probably pressed in at a angle .So no full engagement & using the rotor hat as the braking surface.Klum needs to grind off enough material to clear the hat.In some cases this is up to the pad surface.If klum bent the pad...I'd say the pad should be replaced.It's not the MC.Klum has the larger 4WD MC.Klum should pull the caliper to check for smooth operation & if everything is still straight.
my bad i didnt even see that post, im gunna do that now though ! i think the caliper might not be workin right as well
PUll back the little rubber boots on the caliper and see how the slides look like. All my Hondas have had problems there where the grease gets old or the boot fails and the slide starts to rust. This will also give you some poor braking if they are not moving in and out properly.
You don't need to swap out your MC.You have the larger one.The largest straight swap(88-91 prelude Si, 88-89 accord LXi& 90-91 Civic EX) is only slightly larger.The Teg swaps are larger ,but will need a Booster swap too.Depending on the Teg swap it'll need brake line bending or flaring.
What kind of pads are you running?
Hopefully you reinstalled the rotor screws? :shock:
nahh i didnt lol i couldnt find any.. so wait the problem im having isnt the master cyl? cuz mines already beffy enough for the bigger brakes? im runnning ceramic pads
or maybe my booster is bad?
Were your brakes fine before installing the calipers? If yes, then you can eliminate the booster and master cylinder. Did you bleed all 4 brakes when you re-bled them?
thats what im saying haha i rebled and rebled .. maybe the caliper sucks in air? im not seeing a loss in brake fluid nor am i seeing any fluid where i park or on the brake setup.
im about to just take my shit to a shop tomoro and drop the grusome 60$ to have them bleed the brakes im dumbfounded, unless the brackets need to be milled a certain way im confused. maybe I'll try to replace the seperated brake pads first and then spend the money on a pro bleed job. idk. either way. its been pissing me off and i only got 3 more days until i work again and then it will only be another week until i start school then ill be really screwed with my time.
:shock: WHAT :!: You still haven't replaced the separated pad.I mentioned that some 14 postings ago.
The problem isn't the bleeding.If there was still air in there your pedal would sink.
The only thing that milling does is to clear the pads from rubbing(or locking) the rotor during install and to get even pad life(so the inner & outer pads wear out @ the same time).Unless the milling was way off,but I read about some guy who did his milling w/a hand grinder w/no prob.I've seen factory calipers that were 1/32" off.
Comments
Acura Legend's have the dual like the NSX
Yes
i got oil on the pads during the install are they useless?
car doest stop for shit lol
dont you need to grind the pads so they will fit in, around the disc..? do they fit in then?
yes... oil on the pads will screw them up, the mix of chemicals wont be good. take them out and soak in brake cleaner. but you might want to get new ones. cheap enough for peace of mind. brakes are something you dont want failing on you!
my brakes suckkk lol
lol, yes, thats properly why mate. :roll:
the pad has separated??? got any pics?
this is how it should be:
Sometimes the springs in the top of the caliper rub the rotor, if you pull your calipers off you might see the spring up inside the caliper, it looks kind of like and upside down W. Also, did you upgrade your master cylinder? Could be the cause for the weak pedal, bigger calipers need more fluid pushed to them.
Yes klum it probably pressed in at a angle .So no full engagement & using the rotor hat as the braking surface.Klum needs to grind off enough material to clear the hat.In some cases this is up to the pad surface.If klum bent the pad...I'd say the pad should be replaced.It's not the MC.Klum has the larger 4WD MC.Klum should pull the caliper to check for smooth operation & if everything is still straight.
my bad i didnt even see that post, im gunna do that now though ! i think the caliper might not be workin right as well
What kind of pads are you running?
Hopefully you reinstalled the rotor screws? :shock:
or maybe my booster is bad?
im about to just take my shit to a shop tomoro and drop the grusome 60$ to have them bleed the brakes im dumbfounded, unless the brackets need to be milled a certain way im confused. maybe I'll try to replace the seperated brake pads first and then spend the money on a pro bleed job. idk. either way. its been pissing me off and i only got 3 more days until i work again and then it will only be another week until i start school then ill be really screwed with my time.
The problem isn't the bleeding.If there was still air in there your pedal would sink.
The only thing that milling does is to clear the pads from rubbing(or locking) the rotor during install and to get even pad life(so the inner & outer pads wear out @ the same time).Unless the milling was way off,but I read about some guy who did his milling w/a hand grinder w/no prob.I've seen factory calipers that were 1/32" off.