ok got some more work done. the other pics are from about a week ago.
Can i edit the post thread title??
I shaved the engine bay. It was pretty easy with good results. There are a few harnesses that need to be lengthened to pull the fuse box thru to the passenger kick panel. If you want some more pics of that i can take some.
Hmm ... 20 ft/mi isn't much at all ... could even be countered with a slightly different size tire. I'd imagine the viscous coupling can absorb that difference without committing suicide.
This may be a worthwhile alternative to my thoughts of going F2D or building a 3-stage VTEC D15B/D17A hybrid.
Sorry its been so long since i've been on here. I've had the engine apart..... again and just finished putting it all together yesturday... it fired up nicely. Ill get some pics and videos up here soon. I'm having trouble getting videos up. I use a digi cam and shoot short videos on it. But i dont know how to convert edit and post them up to youtube.com
I've been driving the car around, carefully breaking in the new rings. Its really quite easy to work on a honda engine. I want to install new bushings in all the suspension before hooking up the 4wd. Any idea where i can get a poly kit ? i also need to get a new spring set up for all four... any ideas welcome
I can drive around without a drive shaft. I dont think the 4wd can be turned off. the output shaft spins but it has no effect on the fwd function of the car. a 1996-2000 crv with a b20 dohc engine. i would'nt use an automatic
I drove mine around without any driveline for about a month before I figured out how to make my own. Basically was just like an other fwd vehicle.
The manual CRV trannies are hard to find, but not impossable by any means. When I was priceing parts for my swap I found 5-6 just in the NW alone. Try using www.car-parts.com Thats where I originally sourced everything for my awd b-swap.
And no, the crv trannies are not like the RT trannies where you can disengage. They put power to the rear output shaft all the time.
I have a 2000 CRV 4WD 5 Speed transmission and a spare transfer case for sale. I'm not giving it away, but will sell it for a reasonable sum of money if someone is interested. Remember that shipping will probably be somewhere around $80 or so by FedEx ground depending on how far it has to go. It would also have to go to a business address. The weight limit for residential delivery is 75 lbs.
So does the 4WD get disengaged on the rear diff like the INTRAC then?
Im not familiar with the intrac system, but the rear diff I have (from a 98 crv) has some kind of hydrolic clutchpack that engages when theres a difference in wheel speed front vs rear. It engages pretty much instantly.
Yeah that's the same as INTRAC but what i meant was do the CRV rear diffs have the engage/disengage level on the diff? Because it would have to be somewhere?
The two diffs are geared differently...as are the trannies. If you use the crv tranny, youll need to match it up with the crv diff and the crv driveline.
If your going full time 4wd neither diff supposidly will hold up. They arent designed to be used the entire time. Apparently they overheat. No perosnal experience, but just what Ive read.
The Wagon diff has no special shenanigans inside. Just a plain ring and pinion with an open diff. There would be no issue there as far as full time 4WD other than the fact that the rear wheels would be driven at a slightly slower speed than the fronts. That could easily be addressed by running the appropriate tire diameters front and rear.
The final reduction from the ring gear in the transmission to the driveshaft is .434:1 so for every full revolution of the ring gear, the driveshaft turns .434 revolutions. The final drive at the rear differential in the Wagon diff is 2.529:1, so for every full revolution of the back wheels, the driveshaft needs to turn 2.529 times. This is where I get confused, and someone needs to make me understand more clearly. My math tells me that using these numbers, for every full revolution of the front wheels, the rear wheels would turn 1.098 times. That doesn't make sense to me. That means that the rear wheels are constantly being overdriven, NOT!
EDIT OK, that just doesn't make any sense. The drive shaft actually turns faster than the front wheels, that's for sure. Using the ratios in the Wagovan transmission transfer case, the driveshaft turns 2.526 revolutions for every revolution of the front wheels (actual tooth counts of the transfer case gears). Now with the 2.529:1 ratio in the rear diff, we know that the rear wheels will be driven at 99.88% the speed of the fronts. Now I just need to count some teeth on some CRV transfer case gears. Someone find me some time for that.
EDIT #2 I found time to do the counting. The ring gear inside the CRV transmission that drives the output to the transfer case is 69t, and the gear driven off that one is 30t. Then the bevel gears are 21t to 19t (just like the wagon). That gives a ratio of 2.5421 rotations of the driveshaft for every rotation of the front wheels. Then with the Helms rear end ratio of 2.533, that means the rear wheels spin 100.359% the speed of the front wheels. That means there's some sort of trickery going on inside the rear diff that lets the front wheels spin that .36% slower than the rears and not portion any torque to the rear wheels till there's a greater speed difference.
What this all means to the guys planning on running the CRV transmission with the Wagon rear diff is that the rear wheels will be driven 100.5% the speed of the fronts so 1/2 of a percent faster. I think that would be such a small difference that you would not even notice. To put it in perspective, that's 26.4 feet over a full mile, or like having a 1/10 of an inch diameter difference between your front and your rear tires. This could ultimately lead to a rear biased torque split for those of you not using a viscous coupler or fr/rr diff.
I shaved the engine bay. It was pretty easy with good results. There are a few harnesses that need to be lengthened to pull the fuse box thru to the passenger kick panel. If you want some more pics of that i can take some.
Just started doing a partial tuck on my wagon. Yep.... more pics of it if you could!
Seeing a blue bay minus all the wires got me excited about my tuck again!
Comments
bump for some pix...
YARRRR MATEY! Just edit your first post in this thread, you can edit the thread title from there.
wagon....................4ever......................................................
This may be a worthwhile alternative to my thoughts of going F2D or building a 3-stage VTEC D15B/D17A hybrid.
In for more pics!
nice set-up bro!
i had the same color same motor on my wagon before but i used an Integra tranny so everthing bolts up....
and you wouldn't be 4wd with the Integ trans like this one is with the CRV drivetrain
Sorry its been so long since i've been on here. I've had the engine apart..... again and just finished putting it all together yesturday... it fired up nicely. Ill get some pics and videos up here soon. I'm having trouble getting videos up. I use a digi cam and shoot short videos on it. But i dont know how to convert edit and post them up to youtube.com
I've been driving the car around, carefully breaking in the new rings. Its really quite easy to work on a honda engine. I want to install new bushings in all the suspension before hooking up the 4wd. Any idea where i can get a poly kit ? i also need to get a new spring set up for all four... any ideas welcome
The manual CRV trannies are hard to find, but not impossable by any means. When I was priceing parts for my swap I found 5-6 just in the NW alone. Try using www.car-parts.com Thats where I originally sourced everything for my awd b-swap.
And no, the crv trannies are not like the RT trannies where you can disengage. They put power to the rear output shaft all the time.
Im not familiar with the intrac system, but the rear diff I have (from a 98 crv) has some kind of hydrolic clutchpack that engages when theres a difference in wheel speed front vs rear. It engages pretty much instantly.
Heres a pic of the two diffs. Crv is closer and you can see how big the front of it is compared to the farther RT diff.
If your going full time 4wd neither diff supposidly will hold up. They arent designed to be used the entire time. Apparently they overheat. No perosnal experience, but just what Ive read.
The final reduction from the ring gear in the transmission to the driveshaft is .434:1 so for every full revolution of the ring gear, the driveshaft turns .434 revolutions. The final drive at the rear differential in the Wagon diff is 2.529:1, so for every full revolution of the back wheels, the driveshaft needs to turn 2.529 times. This is where I get confused, and someone needs to make me understand more clearly. My math tells me that using these numbers, for every full revolution of the front wheels, the rear wheels would turn 1.098 times. That doesn't make sense to me. That means that the rear wheels are constantly being overdriven, NOT!
EDIT OK, that just doesn't make any sense. The drive shaft actually turns faster than the front wheels, that's for sure. Using the ratios in the Wagovan transmission transfer case, the driveshaft turns 2.526 revolutions for every revolution of the front wheels (actual tooth counts of the transfer case gears). Now with the 2.529:1 ratio in the rear diff, we know that the rear wheels will be driven at 99.88% the speed of the fronts. Now I just need to count some teeth on some CRV transfer case gears. Someone find me some time for that.
EDIT #2 I found time to do the counting. The ring gear inside the CRV transmission that drives the output to the transfer case is 69t, and the gear driven off that one is 30t. Then the bevel gears are 21t to 19t (just like the wagon). That gives a ratio of 2.5421 rotations of the driveshaft for every rotation of the front wheels. Then with the Helms rear end ratio of 2.533, that means the rear wheels spin 100.359% the speed of the front wheels. That means there's some sort of trickery going on inside the rear diff that lets the front wheels spin that .36% slower than the rears and not portion any torque to the rear wheels till there's a greater speed difference.
What this all means to the guys planning on running the CRV transmission with the Wagon rear diff is that the rear wheels will be driven 100.5% the speed of the fronts so 1/2 of a percent faster. I think that would be such a small difference that you would not even notice. To put it in perspective, that's 26.4 feet over a full mile, or like having a 1/10 of an inch diameter difference between your front and your rear tires. This could ultimately lead to a rear biased torque split for those of you not using a viscous coupler or fr/rr diff.
EVAN!!!! post some updates with quality pics!
Just started doing a partial tuck on my wagon. Yep.... more pics of it if you could!
Seeing a blue bay minus all the wires got me excited about my tuck again!