The 'what's it worth?' thread for buying and selling
Haydz
Moderator
One thread for this stuff from now on. Any future posts of this nature will be merged into this one.
So you can post a reply if: you want to know how much your wagon is worth OR you want to know how much another wagon for sale is worth.
Please do not ask what other members cars are worth.
So you can post a reply if: you want to know how much your wagon is worth OR you want to know how much another wagon for sale is worth.
Please do not ask what other members cars are worth.
Comments
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?sid=733005 ... ad=4120620
as long the interior is clean, mileage is low, engine purrs and no rust.
come on-its an rt.
id sell mine $5000.00
its an ebay seller. he originally wanted $179 plus shipping. i got him down to $129 until he sent me pics, then i was like whoa this bumper isnt that nice. thanks for the opinion! this thread is a good idea
http://s827.photobucket.com/albums/zz193/domwash/
Here are a few pictures of the car:
http://s1191.photobucket.com/albums/z461/spanningtree/
Any thoughts on a fair asking price?
ENGINE
• 1983 Accord 4-port 1800cc “EK1” Engine – 148,000 miles on rebuilt engine w/new Genuine Honda cam, rockers, oil pump, STD pistons, rings, exhaust valves, bearings, seals, clutch and pressure plate at the time of rebuild. Still looks very clean inside the valve cover! This is the most desirable 4-port "1751" head with all the exhaust valves toward the outside of the head for even heat distribution and a fully counterweighted crankshaft.
• Oil changed every 3000 miles using Honda or Denso filters and Valvoline oil. Uses 1 quart between oil changes.
• Valves just adjusted. Timing belt due in 6,000 miles
• Coolant changed every 30,000 miles using Honda OL999-9011 Blue coolant
• Lightened flywheel
• 1G Prelude large capacity radiator
• 1G OEM Prelude oil cooler with 2 stage Prelude oil pump
• OEM Honda (Sumitomo) plug wires
• Recent OEM Honda heater core
• Canadian EK1 exhaust manifold (Canada EK1’s had no air-injection so it makes the Accord engine look like a Civic) port polished and JET Hot black ceramic coated
• Large diameter center section 1987 OEM Integra exhaust from the cat-back (bolts in up to rear axle!)
• 2” Stainless steel Genie Turbo muffler and hand built stainless axle back exhaust
• Lifetime warranty Kragen (CSK) alternator
• The Accord engine looks and smogs like the original 1.5Civic. Just passed California smog with 26 of 220 PPM allowed HC. / 0.0 of 2.0% allowed CO.
• Compression 150 / 152 / 150 / 148 psi
TRANSMISSION
• Original Civic Wagon (closer ratio than non-wagon Civic or Accord) transmission with 2.92 1st / 1.76 2nd / 1.18 3rd / .85 4th / .71 5th / 4.428 final drive.
• Rebuilt at 237,000 miles with Genuine Honda Synchros, bearings and seals.
• All rebuilt shift linkage, shifts great!
• Lifetime warranty NAPA CV axles
• Transmission oil changed every 30,000 miles with genuine Honda/Acura Manual Transmission lube
SUSPENSION / BRAKES
• Custom wound heavy front springs – 200 lb/in rate
• Extra leaf spring added in the rear with 1 1/2" lowering blocks
• KYB front struts / heavy duty rear shocks
• Spherical bearing upper strut mount (nonadjustable caster/camber plates)
• Front control arms custom fabricated with spherical bearing inner pivots
• Custom front sub-frame ‘g-load’ brace.
• Custom rear sway bar
• 1987 Integra front brakes with fresh rebuilt calipers and new AXXIS brake pads
• Lifetime warranty Kragen (CSK) Brake booster
3 sets of WHEELS & TIRES
• 1983 Accord rims (13 X 5.0”) with worn Falken Ziex 185/60/13 tires
• 1989 Accord LX-I alloy wheels (14 X 5.5”) with brand new BF Goodrich Comp TA Super-Sport 185/60/14 tires.
• Custom made race rims (13 X 7.0”) with old & hard 215/50/13 BF Goodrich Comp TA R1 tires. Custom rims are made from OEM Accord steel wheel centers that were cut from the skinny 5.0” outer sections and re-welded into Diamond Racing wheel’s .095” lightweight spun 7” shells with safety beads.
CHASSIS / BODY
• A California car since new – never been hit
• The car was originally metallic silver, but was re-painted a blue tinted machinery grey (Ford Paint code FM 8123) about 12 years ago when the original clear coat started peeling. Body de-badged of all logos.
• The car looks great from ~20 feet away, but get close, and you’ll see plenty of door dings, scratches and general body waves from people leaning on the car.
• Vitaloni Tornado / EMPI Mini Sprint exterior mirrors
• Paint is still in reasonably good shape, keep it waxed up and it should last another 5 – 10 year….however if you are looking for a classic show Honda, it should definitely be re-done.
• Battery moved to under the rear trunk floor
INTERIOR
• 1987 Integra steering wheel
• Factory gage cluster, tachometer, cable, and cam-drive housing from Sport optioned Civic
• Kenwood 2 way speakers in the OEM dash location
• New black carpet in the trunk area
EXTRAS
• Factory 1983 Honda Accord Service Manual
• 1983 Accord Owner’s Manual
• Factory 1980 Honda Civic Service Manual
• Clymer 1976-85 Accord & Prelude Shop Manual
• Spare Accord cylinder head
• Spare carburetor, ignition coil, voltage regulator, electronic ignition module, radiator fan, and misc. smog parts
• Spare catalytic converter hollowed out with a straight thru pipe welded in place
• Spare under-dash fan blower, various interior and dash bits, and too many other spare parts to list
PROBLEMS
• Those that know these old Hondas know that the CVCC carburetors are finicky. This carburetor has never let me down, but it does start rough especially when the temperatures are cold. It takes a few minutes to warm up and smooth out.
• The fast idle does not come down on its’ own and requires a tap on the throttle pedal to kick it down. When it is cold, it takes a long time to come off fast idle.
• The e-brake cable is broken
• The radio needs replaced. It has a burned out LCD display so you can’t tell what radio station you’re listening to and the cassette player doesn’t work.
• The antenna was kinked from backing up under a tree. I repaired it with an internal sleeve, but it now no-longer collapses.
• The rear window hot-wire defroster does not work
• There are two cracks on the passenger side of the windshield
• The plastic trim in the front and rear window rubber has mostly disintegrated.
• There is a small amount of rust under the rain gutters above the rear quarter windows
• The roof rail channel trim pieces are long gone, and the seam sealer and paint in the channels is peeling.
• On hot days, the rear-view mirror does not hold its position and vibrates down until you are looking at the back seat.
• Some of the plastic is broken around the edges of the rear-view mirror
• Wipers are truly intermittent (needs a new relay?)
• Wiper blades are shot (I use Rain-X)
• There are some scratches on the driver’s side window where beach sand got into the felt scraper and scratched the window when it was rolled down.
• The climate control panel is for an A/C car, so the label is wrong for two positions: 1)Max AC = everything off. 2) Min AC = vent.
- complete MPFI swap (intake manifold, dizzy, injector box, Pm6 ecu)
- rt 6spd transmission
i'm a bit out of the loop, what's this stuff worth.
-tranny? idk...
You are better off searching for a thread that I made showing you can use the one from an Odyssey (35 shipped vs a "rare" wagon one with the JDM tax thrown on top of it).
thanks yeah i saw that thread. Some more searching has found me a new one for £100 - but suppose people would not pay that eh!
Back on topic now.
and how much for the t-bar that has the hood loop and latch.
thanks
hahaha
Man ive still not seen the big Hooplaa over these dumb under seat junk boxes .... i think i have 2 or 3 of them floating around .... (think one was used to drain my oil once ) LMAO