That is correct. They are the OEM fenders with some extensive trimming in the front, and the rears will be cut and re-welded to push the opening up to a larger diameter under the flares. The flares are 240SX S13 flares that were trimmed to fit the contours of the Wagon body. I was really pleased at how well they fit around the rear doors.
What did the Supercharger set you back if you don't mind me asking? I would also like to know why you went with the D16Z6 head on the block? I'm looking at building a D16Z6 for my 2WD wagon and I would love to Supercharge it. Also, what engine management are you running? Thanks
What did the Supercharger set you back if you don't mind me asking? I would also like to know why you went with the D16Z6 head on the block? I'm looking at building a D16Z6 for my 2WD wagon and I would love to Supercharge it. Also, what engine management are you running? Thanks
yeah splurge a lil lets hear some engine specs if u havent listed them off already.
The last time I ran this blower kit (2006) it was on a built D16A6 bottom end with a completely stock D16Y7 head. I picked that head because I wasen't interested in messing with Vtec, and the Y7 and Y8 heads have 1mm larger valves than the A6. That didn't turn out as well as expected. The Y7 cam is so wimpy and the ports on the head are so very small that the boost couldn't get into the combustion chamber. I was seeing 23psi on the datalogs, and the Motorola 2.5bar map sensor maxes out at 23psi, so it could very well have been a lot higher. I do know that the IATs were hitting 255 degrees plus. I also think the OEM Honda IAT sensor maxes out at 255.
When I blew the motor due to detonation (cracked the sleeve on cylinder #4) part of the rebuild process included improving the flow through the head to let the boost get to the combustion chamber. I now know that I succeded, as the boost is down to a max of 20psi, which is pretty much where it is supposed to be.
-D16Z6 head, minor port matching to the blower intake manifold and Kamikaze header, and guides and valve grind
-Crower Turbo stage 2 cam
-Crower springs and retainers
-D16A6 block with full iron main caps and OEM aluminum girdle, built with Endyn block posts
-Endyn Rollerwave Wiseco 10.5:1 forced induction configured pistons with skirt coatings
-Eagle rods
-Endyn ported oil pump
-D16Y8 OEM crank pulley
-Skunk2 adjustable cam gear
-60mm B16 TB, bored to 62mm and tapered out to 65mm by Maxbore
-Hondata S300
-Motorola 2.5bar map sensor mounted inside the ECU
-RC Engineering 720cc injectors
-AEM universal remote mount FPR
-All custom AN6 fuel plumbing
-MSD 6A ingition
-S300 datalogging activated by Honda OEM A/C switch on the dash
-Autometer pressure transducers for fuel and oil pressure, monitored and datalogged by S300
-HR Tuning Tunerview II showing many different engine parameters, including aformentioned fuel and oil pressure in addition to IAT in real time
-AEM water injection plumbed into the intake tube between the TB and the supercharger
-LPG solenoid in water feed line between the pump and the nozzle, opened by S300 when ECU sees 1 psi boost (this is to stop vacuum from engine sucking water out of the reservoir under normal driving)
-Fault trigger output from AEM water injection to S300 to switch to secondary maps retuned to be safe for engine with no water injection
-Race Logic traction control system using 4 wheel speed sensors from OEM Honda ABS system (custom mounted), and controlling injectors to limit wheelspin as well as launch control.
The Endyn kit was expensive, plain and simple. The manifold kit with the fuel rail, intake tube from TB to blower (custom hydro formed), pulley brackets, pulleys, and various other mechanical bits was $2,500. That does not include the M62, or the porting of the blower. But then the prices of some of the new manifolds being marketed for the K series stuff ($2,000 up to $3,000) are pretty high as well, and I got more than just a manifold.
After reading the latest cam test by SpeedFactory, I'm considering contacting Bisi about a custom blower cam along the same lines as his 2.4 turbo cam. Then again I may just wait to see what the power numbers are with the current setup.
Dynos once I actually go to the dyno. Not sure when that will happen. Gotta save up some coin. Probably going to take it to Speed Factory for that one. I'll see about the pics sans-hood sometime soon. I may be taking it off for some cooling "modifications".
The latest super street does a z6 cam test with 6 cams. Bisis 2.4 cam made 81hp over a stock cam with 19lbs on a vitara build. Crazy stuff. It's the cam Ill be putting in my z6 for sure.
If the drivetain holds together for the next little while, I'll probably be looking to Bisi for a custom grind to suit the supercharged setup. I'm running the Crower cam from that test (Turbo stage 2), and I suspect I can get more from a better, custom cam.
What Honda was the Racelogicsetup for? I know there were a few kits they had for CRX's but I understood the UK guys cleaned them out a while back.
What slip have you got dialed in?
Is the header 3" under the sump, or a little smaller to clear the diff?
My Race Logic is the universal one with digital adjuster and launch control. I am implementing my own wheel speed sensors, using Honda ABS rings on my front hubs/rear axles, and Honda sensors. However, I'm wiring it on my own, and I've made up my own front sensor mounts. I've still to make the sensor mounts for the rear. I'll be mounting them on the diff housing, as I had DSS put the ABS rings on the inner axle cups. There was no room for this on the outside at the wheel. Once I have the kit installed, I'll start playing with the setup. I think I'll start at 10% slip. That seemed to work really well on my buddy's turbocharged 240SX.
The exhaust is full 3" from the flange at the front of the engine by the dipstick all the way to the tailpipe.
OK. You wanted videos, so here are a few. I autocrossed for the 1st time today. I trailered the car to the site, for fear of being stranded if anything broke. I'm glad to say it held together beautifully. I had some pretty extensive rubbing with the back tires. They were rubbing on the inside of the fenderwell, just above and outside of where the shock goes up into the body. This made me turn away a few passengers, as it would have made the rubbing much worse.
Unfortunately the course was very tight. I didn't get above 50 mph, and never above 6,000rpm in 2nd gear. I was also battling some pretty good understeer. The front tires were pretty heat cycled, and the rears were brand new. I know the car will shine on a more wide open course. Oh, and I let it go pretty good on one of the runs coming off the sweeper at the back of the course, and looped it.
Sorry for the shaky nature of the videos. My 13 year old cameraman (my son) isn't used to long range shots. Enjoy:
Man that was a super tight course. The wagon seemed like it was too big for the course! I can only imagine that the skyline felt like a tank through those cones. Cant wait for more vids!
I washed up the car after yesterday's autocross, and took some pics of it before taking off the race wheels. The overall diameter is about 1" more than the street wheels/tires, so it raises the car up about 1/2". I'm surprised how much higher it makes it look.
When I painted the rear quarters, I didn't get quite enough paint on there, and it looks kinda blotchy. When I paint the rest of it (roof and A/B pillars) I'll shoot some more on there to make it look right.
Comments
:shock: 20psi!
:shock: 9000 Rpm!
> insert "jaw dropped wide open" emoticon
Are you sure you're not building an airplane
looks like stock fenders with some bolt-on fender flares
yeah splurge a lil lets hear some engine specs if u havent listed them off already.
When I blew the motor due to detonation (cracked the sleeve on cylinder #4) part of the rebuild process included improving the flow through the head to let the boost get to the combustion chamber. I now know that I succeded, as the boost is down to a max of 20psi, which is pretty much where it is supposed to be.
-D16Z6 head, minor port matching to the blower intake manifold and Kamikaze header, and guides and valve grind
-Crower Turbo stage 2 cam
-Crower springs and retainers
-D16A6 block with full iron main caps and OEM aluminum girdle, built with Endyn block posts
-Endyn Rollerwave Wiseco 10.5:1 forced induction configured pistons with skirt coatings
-Eagle rods
-Endyn ported oil pump
-D16Y8 OEM crank pulley
-Skunk2 adjustable cam gear
-60mm B16 TB, bored to 62mm and tapered out to 65mm by Maxbore
-Hondata S300
-Motorola 2.5bar map sensor mounted inside the ECU
-RC Engineering 720cc injectors
-AEM universal remote mount FPR
-All custom AN6 fuel plumbing
-MSD 6A ingition
-S300 datalogging activated by Honda OEM A/C switch on the dash
-Autometer pressure transducers for fuel and oil pressure, monitored and datalogged by S300
-HR Tuning Tunerview II showing many different engine parameters, including aformentioned fuel and oil pressure in addition to IAT in real time
-AEM water injection plumbed into the intake tube between the TB and the supercharger
-LPG solenoid in water feed line between the pump and the nozzle, opened by S300 when ECU sees 1 psi boost (this is to stop vacuum from engine sucking water out of the reservoir under normal driving)
-Fault trigger output from AEM water injection to S300 to switch to secondary maps retuned to be safe for engine with no water injection
-Race Logic traction control system using 4 wheel speed sensors from OEM Honda ABS system (custom mounted), and controlling injectors to limit wheelspin as well as launch control.
The Endyn kit was expensive, plain and simple. The manifold kit with the fuel rail, intake tube from TB to blower (custom hydro formed), pulley brackets, pulleys, and various other mechanical bits was $2,500. That does not include the M62, or the porting of the blower. But then the prices of some of the new manifolds being marketed for the K series stuff ($2,000 up to $3,000) are pretty high as well, and I got more than just a manifold.
After reading the latest cam test by SpeedFactory, I'm considering contacting Bisi about a custom blower cam along the same lines as his 2.4 turbo cam. Then again I may just wait to see what the power numbers are with the current setup.
That's freakin sweet! Always thought about rigging that to do something else.
how about some under the hood shots particularly around the intake manifold? yes i did see the picture on page one.
detailed pictures of the blower would help too.
when you going to get some dyno charts posted?
What Honda was the Racelogicsetup for? I know there were a few kits they had for CRX's but I understood the UK guys cleaned them out a while back.
What slip have you got dialed in?
Is the header 3" under the sump, or a little smaller to clear the diff?
The exhaust is full 3" from the flange at the front of the engine by the dipstick all the way to the tailpipe.
Unfortunately the course was very tight. I didn't get above 50 mph, and never above 6,000rpm in 2nd gear. I was also battling some pretty good understeer. The front tires were pretty heat cycled, and the rears were brand new. I know the car will shine on a more wide open course. Oh, and I let it go pretty good on one of the runs coming off the sweeper at the back of the course, and looped it.
Sorry for the shaky nature of the videos. My 13 year old cameraman (my son) isn't used to long range shots. Enjoy:
http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/pp10 ... ne13-4.mp4
http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/pp10 ... ne13-6.mp4
http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/pp10 ... ne13-7.mp4
When I painted the rear quarters, I didn't get quite enough paint on there, and it looks kinda blotchy. When I paint the rest of it (roof and A/B pillars) I'll shoot some more on there to make it look right.
Hella flush enough for you?
Is that enough rubber for you guys?