Yep..!! I Got out of algona man.. Cops there get in to your business way freaking too much.. Can u believe I got pulled over in front of my driveway there one time!!! Lol..!!! I was like I'm already park man??? I'm Like that movie super troopers lol.!!! I guess it freaks them out if you drive a Honda on that area.. I guess that's one of the reason why I sold my EG Honda. Anyways I'm back on the Honda game and I'm loving the wago. I'm Wondering how much are those white rims and can you get em on black.?? I bought my wago already on coil over, don't know which kind but Kinda low and a bit bumpy on the ride. Thinking about redoing it and maybe raise it a little bit nice and even. As of now I'm doing a D15b engine swap and it's about 80% done. It's mounted all the wiring obd0 to obd1 done fired it up and it's starts. Only thing that's bugging me now is the CEL I can't get it to blink on me to get the code. Thought it was the ecu but we tested it on my co workers car and it works no CEL. Don't know if it's the jumper harness, the way I wired it or sensor heek maybe it's vaccum I don't know:(... Can't wait to get it run'n right and start the cosmetic job. Let me know if you can think of anything I'm doing wrong with the swap. It's a jdm D15b with y8 intake manifold and a p28 ECU.. Yep did use a obd0 to obd1 jumper harness made locally by finetune in Tacoma. Had the single wire O2 sensor and now converted to 4 wire. Hmmmm.?? What could be the CEL code be.???
Yep..!! I Got out of algona man.. Cops there get in to your business way freaking too much.. Can u believe I got pulled over in front of my driveway there one time!!! Lol..!!! I was like I'm already park man??? I'm Like that movie super troopers lol.!!! I guess it freaks them out if you drive a Honda on that area.. I guess that's one of the reason why I sold my EG Honda. Anyways I'm back on the Honda game and I'm loving the wago. I'm Wondering how much are those white rims and can you get em on black.?? I bought my wago already on coil over, don't know which kind but Kinda low and a bit bumpy on the ride. Thinking about redoing it and maybe raise it a little bit nice and even. As of now I'm doing a D15b engine swap and it's about 80% done. It's mounted all the wiring obd0 to obd1 done fired it up and it's starts. Only thing that's bugging me now is the CEL I can't get it to blink on me to get the code. Thought it was the ecu but we tested it on my co workers car and it works no CEL. Don't know if it's the jumper harness, the way I wired it or sensor heek maybe it's vaccum I don't know:(... Can't wait to get it run'n right and start the cosmetic job. Let me know if you can think of anything I'm doing wrong with the swap. It's a jdm D15b with y8 intake manifold and a p28 ECU.. Yep did use a obd0 to obd1 jumper harness made locally by finetune in Tacoma. Had the single wire O2 sensor and now converted to 4 wire. Hmmmm.?? What could be the CEL code be.???
ya auburn cops are same way..the wheels were about 575 for that size and powder coat is free for white, black or silver. 40 extra a wheel for chrome lip with a raw center. and the stie also says they will do custom color but not sure how much. as far as the CEL goes, i hate dealing with that. i was lucky on mine and it was the distributor throwing my CEL. i dont know anything about using the jumper harness wish i could be of more help.
...Please let me know if you have ever had that happen due to the car being to low or please tell me how your car is super low and how you did it so there is no wheel hop
i've had my car slammed and never had problems like this.
i've even had it slammed with 3-4 different wheel/tire setups.
i want to say it's the wheels or tires.
i had a similar shaking problem and it turned out one of the wheels was bent (although it was difficult to see).
...Since were on the subject of extended studs I remember reading a few different times that some Acura studs work on our hubs but they are the same length as the extened ARP ones. Way cheaper too. I want to say it was from a Legend?
You could be extending the CV shafts so much because of how low the car is (as it goes lower, they stretch out more) that the inner or outer joints are trying to jump out of the cups, making it shake/vibrate like that. It could be bad enough that the joint would bind, and make the wheel jump around (wheel hop?).
You could be extending the CV shafts so much because of how low the car is (as it goes lower, they stretch out more) that the inner or outer joints are tyring to jump out of the cups, making it shake/vibrate like that. It could be bad enough that the joint would bind, and make the wheel jump around (wheel hop?).
Jaker is right. I have my wagon slammed. But its not a daily driver. I remember on a long trip riding to Eastcoast Honda Meet in VA last year one on my axles binded causing that side to wobble and hop as if my wheel was loose. I had to swap the axle and raise my wagon the rest of the ride.
Jaker, do you think there is a way to compensate the axle extension with a custom lca - I've been toying with the idea for a slightly shortened lca's on front and rear (front obviously being the hardest cause it might have to be made out of cast iron).
I have often considered making (or having some made) custom front lower control arms. I need them to be a bit longer, and I see no reason why they couldn't be made with an adjustment between the shock mount and the outer ball joint to change the length. I wouldn't want to do the adjusting anywhere else, as that would alter too much of the other attachment points (radius rod, sway bar endlink, lower shock mount).
I'm more worried about the radius rod connection being tweaked than anything. The rears I can have made easily with a couple of the cnc machines I have access too, the fronts I don't think would hold up very well as cnc'd aluminum, I'd prefer something stronger.
There were some forged aluminum ones from someone (I think they were OBX) but they were for EG/DC/EK. I bought a set a while back with the intent of adapting them to fit the Wagon, but decided in the end thatit would be too much work. I think you could take the OEM arm, and with proper welding technique you could weld some threaded bosses into the arm, and then have a good thick threaded stub with jam nuts in between to allow changes in length. Or if we could find some high misalignment sphericals, we could just make up a holder which could be welded to the end of a threaded stub to screw into the modified control arm.
You could be extending the CV shafts so much because of how low the car is (as it goes lower, they stretch out more) that the inner or outer joints are trying to jump out of the cups, making it shake/vibrate like that. It could be bad enough that the joint would bind, and make the wheel jump around (wheel hop?).
thanks Jaker i wanna agree with you cause all that happened in one day while changing wheels and dropping car all the way down.. its a lil better now but does it around corners if i go hard now. any idea if its possible to get longer axles?
If memory serves me right, the EK axles are slightly longer than the EF ones (don't know for sure about the EG ones). However, I don't know how much longer they need to be. You'd have to do some careful measuring to know exactly how much longer you need them to be, and know if the EK ones will work or not.
If memory serves me right, the EK axles are slightly longer than the EF ones (don't know for sure about the EG ones). However, I don't know how much longer they need to be. You'd have to do some careful measuring to know exactly how much longer you need them to be, and know if the EK ones will work or not.
Sorry. Don't know that much about B series axles. I know there are some differences in lengths, but have no idea which is which. At the very least, you could come up with a number of what length you need and get them custom made by Drive Shaft Shop, but that'd be coin $$$. If you know exactly what inner and outer joints you have on your current axles, you could buy just the CV axle shaft in a custom length from Frank at DSS and swap your existing parts over. That'd be the cheapest custom axle solution.
Sorry. Don't know that much about B series axles. I know there are some differences in lengths, but have no idea which is which. At the very least, you could come up with a number of what length you need and get them custom made by Drive Shaft Shop, but that'd be coin $$$. If you know exactly what inner and outer joints you have on your current axles, you could buy just the CV axle shaft in a custom length from Frank at DSS and swap your existing parts over. That'd be the cheapest custom axle solution.
Thanks for the info Jaker... im gonna try to get more positive camber and see how she rides.
Thanks for the info Jaker... im gonna try to get more positive camber and see how she rides.
If you're gonna go back down really low, positive camber will make it worse. That'll pull the hub out further.
oh it will. dam. was gonna do that. i notice also the grease getting shot out from axles and there new with no rips in them. its like to preasure of the angle is pushing it out of the clamp
You could be extending the CV shafts so much because of how low the car is (as it goes lower, they stretch out more) that the inner or outer joints are trying to jump out of the cups, making it shake/vibrate like that. It could be bad enough that the joint would bind, and make the wheel jump around (wheel hop?).
never thought about that.
i was curious about the axles.
i searched and found the following:
Sorry. Don't know that much about B series axles. I know there are some differences in lengths, but have no idea which is which. At the very least, you could come up with a number of what length you need and get them custom made by Drive Shaft Shop, but that'd be coin $$$. If you know exactly what inner and outer joints you have on your current axles, you could buy just the CV axle shaft in a custom length from Frank at DSS and swap your existing parts over. That'd be the cheapest custom axle solution.
If you can find a longer B series axle(say from a crv) with the correct inboard, you can have the shaft cut and resplined to the correct outboard.. I have them done all the time by a local shop in langley BC (RND Customs) http://www.rndcustoms.ca/
on average it's 8o bucks per axle
thanks for all the help guys. great search on axle lengths. wish i didnt have the integra axles to deal with.. went to buget wrecking today just for a new valve cover and got lucky they had one brown wagon there.. got the rear spare tire cover, rear carpet, hatch struts and over flow bottle thats clean unlike what i had. all for just 30 bucks. SCORE.. some new shots also. put red pin stripe on and my buddys s2000. ya we have to drive up on blocks to get a jack under. show 1-29-11
What the heck is the big black metal folding contraption? Don't tell me that's the spare
Tire cover? lawlz if it is! Is it stock or fabricated? Cool
If it's fabbed, crappy if it's stock.
Comments
ya auburn cops are same way..the wheels were about 575 for that size and powder coat is free for white, black or silver. 40 extra a wheel for chrome lip with a raw center. and the stie also says they will do custom color but not sure how much. as far as the CEL goes, i hate dealing with that. i was lucky on mine and it was the distributor throwing my CEL. i dont know anything about using the jumper harness wish i could be of more help.
i've even had it slammed with 3-4 different wheel/tire setups.
i want to say it's the wheels or tires.
i had a similar shaking problem and it turned out one of the wheels was bent (although it was difficult to see).
sounds interesting.
have you found any more info.
diamondracingwheels.com. have to call and order. it takes about 3 weeks
thanks Jaker i wanna agree with you cause all that happened in one day while changing wheels and dropping car all the way down.. its a lil better now but does it around corners if i go hard now. any idea if its possible to get longer axles?
But which one would work with a b18a1
Thanks for the info Jaker... im gonna try to get more positive camber and see how she rides.
If you're gonna go back down really low, positive camber will make it worse. That'll pull the hub out further.
oh it will. dam. was gonna do that. i notice also the grease getting shot out from axles and there new with no rips in them. its like to preasure of the angle is pushing it out of the clamp
i believe the EK & EG axles are the same.
never thought about that.
i was curious about the axles.
i searched and found the following:
EMPI CV JOINT HALF SHAFT (ef, awd) - 23.8125 in. overall compressed length; 27-spline inner stub; 26-spline outer stub
EMPI CV JOINT HALF SHAFT (ef, fwd) - 35.5 in. overall compressed length; 25-spline inner stub; 26-spline outer stub
EMPI CV JOINT HALF SHAFT (ek, fwd) - 35.625 in. overall compressed length; 25-spline inner stub; 26-spline outer stub
EMPI CV JOINT HALF SHAFT (eg, fwd) - 35.625 in. overall compressed length; 25-spline inner stub; 26-spline outer stub
on average it's 8o bucks per axle
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5281/533 ... 467b_o.jpg
Tire cover? lawlz if it is! Is it stock or fabricated? Cool
If it's fabbed, crappy if it's stock.