Wow! That is a great brake down! LOL... I was thinking about getting the Sanden just to get a newer one... I also thought about the stuff that I would have to get as well. So, I decided to buy the remanufactured Matsushita compressor kit offered on eBay. I made an offer to the seller and he accepted it. I actually was watching the item already :-) I will install the AC compressor myself, plus the oil, drier, and O rings! I will keep you updated!
Update 07/04/2012: Today, I installed a REMANUFACTURED AC compressor, new expansion valve and new drier! professionally freon filled! The AC blows cold at the begining and then it gets warm after a while.... THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZZZZZZZYYYYYYYYYY! I expended more than $500 today and this AC still does not work properly!!! What that heck?????????????????? HELLLPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How long until it gets warm? Does it slowly get warm? When warm is the compressor still cycling on and off? Are you recirculating the air or drawing in fresh air?
Matsushita- is a weak link but I don’t think it is your problem. Everything is new and should work proper. Assuming you did replace everything and there are no leaks or blockages. Also assuming the AC shop vacuumed the system and pressure tested it before filling the system. You should check the AC pressure and that it is WNL to the temp outside, check that the compressor kicks in, and check that the condenser fan is working "IMO your not pulling enough air through the condenser"
One major problem is that when we convert the R12 to R134a is that at idle the small condenser fan does not pull enough CFM to properly cool the condenser.
Lastly put a heat shield on you manifold if it’s not there and thermal wrap the compressor lines to insure no heat transfer.
How long until it gets warm? Does it slowly get warm? When warm is the compressor still cycling on and off? Are you recirculating the air or drawing in fresh air?
The AC is cold when you first start the AC. After driving the car for about an hour with the AC on, the AC begins feeling some what less cold. That is when the wagon's temperature begins increasing as well. The temperature goes higher than normal to the point that the wagon could overheat. This is all until the AC is turned off. Then the wagon's temperature goes to normal.
Matsushita- is a weak link but I dont think it is your problem. Everything is new and should work proper. Assuming you did replace everything and there are no leaks or blockages. Also assuming the AC shop vacuumed the system and pressure tested it before filling the system. You should check the AC pressure and that it is WNL to the temp outside, check that the compressor kicks in, and check that the condenser fan is working "IMO your not pulling enough air through the condenser"
One major problem is that when we convert the R12 to R134a is that at idle the small condenser fan does not pull enough CFM to properly cool the condenser.
Lastly put a heat shield on you manifold if its not there and thermal wrap the compressor lines to insure no heat transfer.
Yes, the system was vacummed for about 30 minutes and tested the system for leaks. Like I said, the AC works just fine for the first hour. then the AC begins blowing a little warmer and the wagon's temperature increases.
i had a similar problem and it ended up being the piece that goes inside the car, it was a little clogged so it would blow cold then it would not and the top ac line would get warm while the car was running
Look at your fans confirm they are working and blowing good check the direction of airflow "sometimes wiring is switched and the fan blows the wrong direction" it happens.
Then flush the radiator really good it’s an older car and could use a good cooling system flush/cleaning. Replace the thermostat if it has not been done for a longtime.
Lastly flush the condenser if you didn’t replace it can also become clogged.
I know you have put some time and $ into the ac don’t give up you are almost there. My suggestions above are experiences I have had and solutions to the problem.
i had a similar problem and it ended up being the piece that goes inside the car, it was a little clogged so it would blow cold then it would not and the top ac line would get warm while the car was running
I was thinking that since the A/C was vaccumed for a half hour, the AC could not probably be clogged. I think that the AC machine would have advised about it... I am not sure thought.... However, it is crazy.. The AC works fine for the first hour, then it changed to warm and the wagon begins overheating. I think that if the AC would have be clogged, the AC would not work at anytime.
Look at your fans confirm they are working and blowing good check the direction of airflow "sometimes wiring is switched and the fan blows the wrong direction" it happens.
Then flush the radiator really good its an older car and could use a good cooling system flush/cleaning. Replace the thermostat if it has not been done for a longtime.
Lastly flush the condenser if you didnt replace it can also become clogged.
I know you have put some time and $ into the ac dont give up you are almost there. My suggestions above are experiences I have had and solutions to the problem.
When the car is overheating, I have checked under the hood and have seen both radiator fans working blowing to the engine direction. I have already flushed the system myself and no changes.
when the car starts to overheat are you in normal stop and go traffic or on the highway? im guessing traffic.
I would focus more on your cooling system of the car- the ac I would say works. It only stops working when the temp of the car rises that being heat transfer.
the ac is putting extra load on the car that it cant compensate for. keep the engine cool the ac will stay cool.
when the car starts to overheat are you in normal stop and go traffic or on the highway? im guessing traffic.
I would focus more on your cooling system of the car- the ac I would say works. It only stops working when the temp of the car rises that being heat transfer.
the ac is putting extra load on the car that it cant compensate for. keep the engine cool the ac will stay cool.
What motor is that? looks like z6 or y8
That is exactly what the especialist said. The temperature increases in highways or local streets. It does not really matters.
The engine is the stock D15b2 block with a D16Y7 head. When I changed the head, I also changed the head gasket and water pump with timing belt:
My sister has a 2008 Civic, when the A/C is on recirculate after a few hours the evaporator will freeze up to the point that there is no more air coming out of the vents. So after the initial cool down of your car change it to bring in outside air and see if you still have a problem.
They are all for the ac system, for the compressor and condenser fan. Your AC is fine and working
I truly think it’s your radiator/cooling system of the car. As long as your motor is tuned proper, a/f ratio is in spec and there are no other factors.
I look at it like this
Radiator is old it has deposits on the tubes inside narrowing the amount of coolant flow, the motor will have this also decreasing the cooling efficiency. Your getting added load on the motor due to the compressor this will demand 100% cooling from a system that is only putting out 75% so during driving the temp will slowly rise to the point where you notice it on the gage.
I recommend a true flush- get the entire cooling system flushed, replace the thermostat and get a quality "new" radiator. replaceing the fans is a bonus because the small condenser fan is already to small and hardly works well for the R134a conversion.
They are all for the ac system, for the compressor and condenser fan. Your AC is fine and working
I truly think it’s your radiator/cooling system of the car. As long as your motor is tuned proper, a/f ratio is in spec and there are no other factors.
I look at it like this
Radiator is old it has deposits on the tubes inside narrowing the amount of coolant flow, the motor will have this also decreasing the cooling efficiency. Your getting added load on the motor due to the compressor this will demand 100% cooling from a system that is only putting out 75% so during driving the temp will slowly rise to the point where you notice it on the gage.
I recommend a true flush- get the entire cooling system flushed, replace the thermostat and get a quality "new" radiator. replaceing the fans is a bonus because the small condenser fan is already to small and hardly works well for the R134a conversion.
This all makes sense.... What if I installed an aftermarket fan right in front of the AC condenser?
If your thinking new fans- consider 2 slim fans to just replace the old ones on there. 2 slim fans would pull more cfm than the oem ones and you can tuck them in the oem location.
Updates: The AC blows cold when the AC is started and after running for a while then AC efficiency decreases to the point that it does not make sense to have the AC on. This weekend the AC did the same. The only difference was that since the outside temperature was not that hot, the car did not overheat.
I was thinking that: The AC is overfilled with PAG oil. When the AC is sitting for a while, the expansion valve is drained reading the exact temperature on evaporator. Since the oil is running for a while, it clogged the system making it poor. I do not know. That is just my theory.
I have this comment from "Lilhatch89" in another website. He seemed to have the same problems with his A/C and seems to be very unhappy with the situation:
"This is simple. The compressor is sh*t, Its no good, get rid of it. Its a cheap as* ebay reman. I made the same mistake. I had an OEM Compressor that lasted two weeks of install before the front pully died. Before it died it blew ICE cold. I replaced it with a cheap as* replacement off ebay two years ago. From the point of install up till about two weeks ago The ac ran like shit, never would get cold, would cut off randmoly because the compressor would build up to much pressure. It would run fine at first but as it ran it would pretty much die off. Ran like this up till about two weeks ago when the pile of sh*t finally gave out. I took it into a shop had them save my Freon, left and went to a pull a part, I bought a OEM Compressor with a warranty, installed it in the parking lot went back and had my system recharged and its back to working in perfect ICE cold condition. Every syptom you have described is exactly what i had going on. This is a prime example you get what you pay for. Either buy a new OEM one or find a local junkyard with one that has a warranty, If you got a good mechanic he should not charge you anything to recover your freon and put it back in for ya.
Also your over heating issue is probably caused by the sh*tty compressor. My Sh*tty compresor would build up some much pressure it would choke the engine out before it finally shut down for 5 minutes and kick back on, in most cases sending my car into over heating"
Swag man,
soooo its a perfect time to do this, Pull the condenser use ac flush- flush the thing good or replace it all together. the flush is 13$ or so, and you use and air compressor to blow out the cleaner. blowing the hot line makes me think you have a clog in the condenser. not a compressor that is building to much pressure.
then pull the evaporator and do the same thing- inspect the whole unit if you have never pulled it out you may find a rats nest built in it or a bunch of crud.
Look at the expansion valve - thats all you can do with it haha not funny i know. I wouldent try to clean it.
when you pull the lines replace the orings.
also cleaning the system means you have to replace some of the oil lost.
I have the cheap ebay reman it works fantastic- it blows nice and cold :cool: I am happy with it.
Swag man,
soooo its a perfect time to do this, Pull the condenser use ac flush- flush the thing good or replace it all together. the flush is 13$ or so, and you use and air compressor to blow out the cleaner. blowing the hot line makes me think you have a clog in the condenser. not a compressor that is building to much pressure.
Yes, that is what I am planning on doing. I was thinking about it because the system was already vacuumed and filled. But like you say, now that the system is going to be apart, I will definitely do everything that I was suggested to do... This AC has to FREEZE the inside!! I AM NOT GOING TO GIVE UP!!!! LOL!!!
then pull the evaporator and do the same thing- inspect the whole unit if you have never pulled it out you may find a rats nest built in it or a bunch of crud.
Look at the expansion valve - thats all you can do with it haha not funny i know. I wouldent try to clean it.
when you pull the lines replace the orings.
also cleaning the system means you have to replace some of the oil lost.
I have the cheap ebay reman it works fantastic- it blows nice and cold :cool: I am happy with it.
LOL, I have taken the evaporator and I just found dust and some dirt (Thanks God). I even changed the expansion valve. I am also buying the O ring kit to replace them all. I will also drain the oil out of the compressor and replace the drier (It will be a big job but the AC should blow cold after that.
I am also thinking that the compressor is just fine.
Swag man,
soooo its a perfect time to do this, Pull the condenser use ac flush- flush the thing good or replace it all together. the flush is 13$ or so, and you use and air compressor to blow out the cleaner. blowing the hot line makes me think you have a clog in the condenser. not a compressor that is building to much pressure.
The blown A/C hose was the one that had the leak and the one that the mechanic fixed.
I found out the cause of the AC hose leakage. Since the mechanic cut the hose to repair the hose end leaking, the AC got shorter causing contact with the exhaust manifold. The heat of the manifold burned the hose making a little hole on it.... I should have noticed that before it happened
Please let me know if someone has this AC hose for sale:
Comments
OK cool look forward to the update
I will!!!!!!!!!!
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3035110
http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=2.&threadid=23479&STARTPAGE=1&FTVAR_MSGDBTABLE=
Very nice links!
One major problem is that when we convert the R12 to R134a is that at idle the small condenser fan does not pull enough CFM to properly cool the condenser.
Lastly put a heat shield on you manifold if it’s not there and thermal wrap the compressor lines to insure no heat transfer.
The AC is cold when you first start the AC. After driving the car for about an hour with the AC on, the AC begins feeling some what less cold. That is when the wagon's temperature begins increasing as well. The temperature goes higher than normal to the point that the wagon could overheat. This is all until the AC is turned off. Then the wagon's temperature goes to normal.
Yes, the system was vacummed for about 30 minutes and tested the system for leaks. Like I said, the AC works just fine for the first hour. then the AC begins blowing a little warmer and the wagon's temperature increases.
AC off = no overheating
Look at your fans confirm they are working and blowing good check the direction of airflow "sometimes wiring is switched and the fan blows the wrong direction" it happens.
Then flush the radiator really good it’s an older car and could use a good cooling system flush/cleaning. Replace the thermostat if it has not been done for a longtime.
Lastly flush the condenser if you didn’t replace it can also become clogged.
I know you have put some time and $ into the ac don’t give up you are almost there. My suggestions above are experiences I have had and solutions to the problem.
I was thinking that since the A/C was vaccumed for a half hour, the AC could not probably be clogged. I think that the AC machine would have advised about it... I am not sure thought.... However, it is crazy.. The AC works fine for the first hour, then it changed to warm and the wagon begins overheating. I think that if the AC would have be clogged, the AC would not work at anytime.
When the car is overheating, I have checked under the hood and have seen both radiator fans working blowing to the engine direction. I have already flushed the system myself and no changes.
Recirculating the inside air.
I would focus more on your cooling system of the car- the ac I would say works. It only stops working when the temp of the car rises that being heat transfer.
the ac is putting extra load on the car that it cant compensate for. keep the engine cool the ac will stay cool.
What motor is that? looks like z6 or y8
That is exactly what the especialist said. The temperature increases in highways or local streets. It does not really matters.
The engine is the stock D15b2 block with a D16Y7 head. When I changed the head, I also changed the head gasket and water pump with timing belt:
http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?9409-Description-Updated-Please-Read-D16y7-Head-on-D15b2-Block!&p=119036&viewfull=1#post119036
Also, I noticed that there are 2 relays next to the battery and another relay next to one of the radiator fan, which relay does what?
I truly think it’s your radiator/cooling system of the car. As long as your motor is tuned proper, a/f ratio is in spec and there are no other factors.
I look at it like this
Radiator is old it has deposits on the tubes inside narrowing the amount of coolant flow, the motor will have this also decreasing the cooling efficiency. Your getting added load on the motor due to the compressor this will demand 100% cooling from a system that is only putting out 75% so during driving the temp will slowly rise to the point where you notice it on the gage.
I recommend a true flush- get the entire cooling system flushed, replace the thermostat and get a quality "new" radiator. replaceing the fans is a bonus because the small condenser fan is already to small and hardly works well for the R134a conversion.
This all makes sense.... What if I installed an aftermarket fan right in front of the AC condenser?
I was thinking that: The AC is overfilled with PAG oil. When the AC is sitting for a while, the expansion valve is drained reading the exact temperature on evaporator. Since the oil is running for a while, it clogged the system making it poor. I do not know. That is just my theory.
I have this comment from "Lilhatch89" in another website. He seemed to have the same problems with his A/C and seems to be very unhappy with the situation:
"This is simple. The compressor is sh*t, Its no good, get rid of it. Its a cheap as* ebay reman. I made the same mistake. I had an OEM Compressor that lasted two weeks of install before the front pully died. Before it died it blew ICE cold. I replaced it with a cheap as* replacement off ebay two years ago. From the point of install up till about two weeks ago The ac ran like shit, never would get cold, would cut off randmoly because the compressor would build up to much pressure. It would run fine at first but as it ran it would pretty much die off. Ran like this up till about two weeks ago when the pile of sh*t finally gave out. I took it into a shop had them save my Freon, left and went to a pull a part, I bought a OEM Compressor with a warranty, installed it in the parking lot went back and had my system recharged and its back to working in perfect ICE cold condition. Every syptom you have described is exactly what i had going on. This is a prime example you get what you pay for. Either buy a new OEM one or find a local junkyard with one that has a warranty, If you got a good mechanic he should not charge you anything to recover your freon and put it back in for ya.
Also your over heating issue is probably caused by the sh*tty compressor. My Sh*tty compresor would build up some much pressure it would choke the engine out before it finally shut down for 5 minutes and kick back on, in most cases sending my car into over heating"
What you guys think????
soooo its a perfect time to do this, Pull the condenser use ac flush- flush the thing good or replace it all together. the flush is 13$ or so, and you use and air compressor to blow out the cleaner. blowing the hot line makes me think you have a clog in the condenser. not a compressor that is building to much pressure.
then pull the evaporator and do the same thing- inspect the whole unit if you have never pulled it out you may find a rats nest built in it or a bunch of crud.
Look at the expansion valve - thats all you can do with it haha not funny i know. I wouldent try to clean it.
when you pull the lines replace the orings.
also cleaning the system means you have to replace some of the oil lost.
I have the cheap ebay reman it works fantastic- it blows nice and cold :cool: I am happy with it.
Yes, that is what I am planning on doing. I was thinking about it because the system was already vacuumed and filled. But like you say, now that the system is going to be apart, I will definitely do everything that I was suggested to do... This AC has to FREEZE the inside!! I AM NOT GOING TO GIVE UP!!!! LOL!!!
LOL, I have taken the evaporator and I just found dust and some dirt (Thanks God). I even changed the expansion valve. I am also buying the O ring kit to replace them all. I will also drain the oil out of the compressor and replace the drier (It will be a big job but the AC should blow cold after that.
I am also thinking that the compressor is just fine.
The blown A/C hose was the one that had the leak and the one that the mechanic fixed.
Please let me know if someone has this AC hose for sale: