1990 Built Turbo (Slow Progress)

I picked up a 1990 Dx Wagon, d15b2 with 270k plus.
I rebuilt the stock motor(Page 1) NEEDED RINGS and bought a reman. head (Not needed, we thought head was cracked due to alot of smoke, it was just the rings)

Got it running great.

I put stock d15b2 back in and drove it around and found it needed a little work(obviously)
Building d16z6 Vitara Motor as you read.
Hit on the suspension stuff and got that out the way.(ball joints, tie rods etc)

Then slapping the almighty eBay turbo kit on it and calling it.

This is for fun, I've built many cars and am going as cheap as i can. I know what works, so don't hate on the ebay parts haha. I want to keep it as sleeper as possible. But i want around 300whp

Follow my new youtube channel

Day 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_iUer1BmZE&t=1s

Day 2:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xDC6XdGoHDA

I was going to do a b series swap, but realized I just really want a single cam turbo. The video talks about the b18 swap, not happening! Staying d16

I will be posting prices of most the stuff to see how much is invested.

Block-D16Z6 ($50)
(BLOCK WORK)$280
-Vitara Pistons 75.5mm ($114.94)
-Eagle H beam rods ($329.99)
-Acl Bearings ($101)
-Arp head studs ($109.39)
-Micropolished crank(Block work)
-Felpro lower end gasket set ($29)
-Timing belt component kit/ GATES ($62)


Head
-stock valves
-Aem Cam gear ($99.90)
-Stock mpfi intake manifold and throttle body
-Felpro oem mls Headgasket kit ($82.75)
-Throttle Body gasket($2.00)



Fuel
-AEM fuel rail
-Aeromotive FPR
-New fuel lines/fittings
-750cc-1000cc (have to see where i want the power)
-walbro 255

Turbo
-Ebay turbo t3/t4(EMUSA) ($120)
-Tial wastegate(already have)
-Ram horn style manifold($85)
-CXracing intercooler kit/comes with BOV($195)
-Upgraded oil feed line kit and sandwich plate
-Heat Wrap, metal ties ($55.00)
-T3/T4 Vband exhaust adapter ($68.00)

Suspension
-Innovative traction bar (wayyy more room) ($248.71)
-Innovative motor mounts($179.99
-Stock suspension for now
-progress 22mm sway bar ($155.33)
-New oem brakes and rotors ($40)
-Moog inner/outer tie rods/lower ball joints ($150)

Drivetrain
-Stage 2-4 clutch
-stock transmission, all new seals ($30)
-upgraded axles? recomendations?
-Prob.will need shifter bushing and new linkage. Ill wait for it to break!

Electronics
-Hondata s300/P28 combo ($687.71)
-Aem A/F guage

-Aem Oil pressure guage---- Got a combo pack of guages for ($469.99)
-Aem Boost guage
-CJ's budget D series harness ($345)

Cooling
-new hoses Oem ($17)
-oem thermostat ($5)
-slim radiator/ fan ($48)








59.jpg

60.jpg

61.jpg

63.jpg

64.jpg

Teaser
65.jpg

15.jpeg

95.jpg
«1

Comments

  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Posting pics soon
  • DP_RT4WDDP_RT4WD New Wagonist
    I think your goal HP is definitely attainable; given the motor is assembled correctly and is coupled with a 'good' tune.

    DPFI to MPFI is not very difficult either, lots of info out there on tha internetz -- my advice would be to get that info from several sources, then compare and contrast each of the 'how-to's that you come across, and formulate your own set of steps in order to get it done.

    Good luck with everything.
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    DP_RT4WD wrote: »
    I think your goal HP is definitely attainable; given the motor is assembled correctly and is coupled with a 'good' tune.

    DPFI to MPFI is not very difficult either, lots of info out there on tha internetz -- my advice would be to get that info from several sources, then compare and contrast each of the 'how-to's that you come across, and formulate your own set of steps in order to get it done.

    Good luck with everything.



    Oh yes! Easily attainable. I've built a few monsters in the day... And I've had this wagon just sitting, so I have to play with it.

    As for the motor, she is in good hands here. It shouldn't take me no more than a month to do. Now the holidays are here I'll probably start early January. Rippin the motor out this month and cleaning everything up and sending it to the machine shop
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Change of plans already! getting a d16 motor, I'm not trying to mate up internals to fit. D15b2 rod journals are smaller than any of the piston rod combos available. Im just not dealing with any of the clearance issues with bearings etc. Scooping a d16y8 from the looks.
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Got around to messing with the wagon tonight. Took AC out and radiator. Un-did all the wiring. I will be re-ringing this motor and getting it running properly again. Also, I will be slowly building my turbo motor. I am going to pull this motor soon. I have my own business and I'm a equipment technician for a University here in Virginia so I am BUSYYYY! More updates soon! Oh and wil motor is out I will be putting an innovative traction bar in, all brake stuff and slim radiator.

    27.jpg

    28.jpg

    29.jpg
  • nice can't wait to see the progress, I'm doing about the same thing with my wago. I have a d16z6 going to go turbo with.
  • Macan724Macan724 Band Wagon
    I like it! The only thing I will recommend is to look into getting a different radiator. I have the Greddy 15G setup and my wastegate still touches the fan housing... and it's 1/4 the size of yours. After doing some research, the radiator from the 1985 VW Scirocco is the best option, in my opinion. I've used stock, and multiple half-size-style, and none of them fit properly; even with the innovation traction bar.

    I also had many issues with cooling... but I'm also in FL.

    Hit me up if you need any advise. I have a fully built D16Z6 (Vitara pistons and eagle rods) w/ greddy 15g and Hondata s300. Only difference is its rt4wd... which takes up a ton of engine space.

    http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/radiator/spectra-premium-radiator/volkswagen/scirocco/1985/4-cylinders-a-1-8l-fi-sohc/781054_827501_0_22309/

    http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/154407-radiator-upgrade-88-91-civic-crx.html
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    I'm getting the dual core radiator/halfsize. I've used them in The past, they are like a 1ft1/2 wide. It will clear with no problem. Fitment I'm not worried about either, I'm a welder and can put it wherever really haha. We will see, I just pulled the motor. Pics up soon
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Got the Motor out yesterday, everything is in good shape from the looks.
    Tranny was fine just needs cleaning and seals
    Remember, I will be rebuilding this one and putting it into the car then swapping to MPFI and mocking up the turbo kit afterwards. When thats done the built D16y8 motor will be swapped in.

    NEW PARTS TO BUY to keep rolling
    -clutch kit
    -axle seals/tranny
    -lower end gasket kit.
    -piston rings
    -head gasket
    -Tie rods
    -Upper/lower Ball joints
    -Brake pads/rotors
    -Innovative motor mounts
    -Innovative traction bar
    -VHT Cast iron paint
    ...Misc. small things here and there...

    More updates soon! Check out my youtube channel with the build and just my daily life.

    Day 1:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_iUer1BmZE

    Day 2:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDC6XdGoHDA



    30.jpg

    31.jpg

    32.jpg

    33.jpg

    34.jpg
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Check the channels
  • Youtube link didn't work
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Day 1:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_iUer1BmZE&t=1s

    Day 2:
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xDC6XdGoHDA

    I was going to do a b series swap, but realized I just really want a single cam turbo. The video talks about the b18 swap, not happening! Staying d16
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    sohawk wrote: »
    Youtube link didn't work

    Day 1:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_iUer1BmZE&t=1s

    Day 2:
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xDC6XdGoHDA

    I was going to do a b series swap, but realized I just really want a single cam turbo. The video talks about the b18 swap, not happening! Staying d16
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Day 3:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcxdT9b_sMw

    Other Junk:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcxdT9b_sMw#t=425.946828357


    MORE PICS COMING SOON, I've been having uploading errors
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    -I tore the motor down, bearings looked good (rod and mains).

    -Oil rings were seized up, but the other rings were fine. Thats why my compression was good and oil was still getting to the top. Going to hone the cylinders(checked out fine) and then install new rings.

    -Cleaned and painted the block aswell as the transmission. I have new seals and lower end gasket kit for the block.

    -Exedy Clutch kit arrived.

    12.jpg

    13.jpg

    I cleaned it with diesel fuel.
    14.jpg

    15.jpg

    Painted with Dupli color Cast Iron Engine Enamel

    16.jpg



    17.jpg

    18.jpg
  • Sub'd to the youtube channel. I'll be keeping a close eye on the build!
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    superhatch wrote: »
    Sub'd to the youtube channel. I'll be keeping a close eye on the build!


    Haha nice man! Just something fun to do
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    I managed to get around to rebuilding the d15. I put new rings in the motor and cleaned it up nicely. I reused the bearings. Plastigauge checked out fine.
    -Hopefully everything is good to go. Waiting on new headgasket and lower end crank seals.
    -Motor should be ready to drop in this coming week.
    ONE THING I DID NOT DO WAS RE-HONE THE CYLINDERS...ooops, found the oil flow holes on the pistons to be stopped up. Gave them a good cleaning aswell.

    Plasti-gauge on the crank

    31.jpg

    Bolted a few things on it
    32.jpg

    BLOCK complete(besides oil pan and oil pump
    33.jpg
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Picked up a full long block d16y8 for $90. Had rod knock.
    I tore the head off and realized the #1 rod had broke. I will probably need a new crank, but at least the cylinders looked fine.

    *I told y'all that i didn't hone the d15b2 so I tore it back apart and honed it. That will be installed this coming week. Then i will swap the intake manifold and wiring to convert it to MPFI.

    Here are some pictures of the y8.

    *sorry having troubles uploading. Uploads will be here monday

  • Macan724Macan724 Band Wagon
    Subscribed on YouTube!
  • Macan724Macan724 Band Wagon
    Have you considered just using the Y8 head? Since you did all the work with the block, rebuild that y8 head and make it a Turbo Mini Me.
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Update Pictures


    Flex-Hone 3" cylineder bore
    For $25, a machine shop would have charged $150 or more.
    1.png

    2.png

    D15b2 all stock motor back together minus Timing belt and oil pan
    Watch my youtube video to see where i F**ked up majorly with the hone.

    3.png
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Last week I got the motor finished completley and mounted clutch and transmission. Lets hope she runs good!
    Once Running, i will hit on the brakes, suspension, ball joints, tie rods etc.
    After all that I want to take it to pass inspection then mount the D16y8 Intake manifold

    75.jpg

    76.jpg
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Motor installed

    Finally! I installed the motor and it started no problem. Most the smoke is gone now. It has some smoke due to having oil all throughout the exhuast from ring blow by.
    I only drove it up and down my drive way 100 yards or so, letting the rpms slow it down!

    It is not road worthy yet.
    NEEDS:
    -Battery
    -Brakes/rotors
    -Inner/outer tie rods
    -Lower ball joints
    -Tires

    1)Once the above is installed i will be able to drive it and break it in some more.
    2)I will be mounting my Innovative Traction bar and Dual core radiator after everything is good.
    3)Then swap the manifolds and harness etc. To go to OBD1 and to MPFI(getting it ready for the D16y8)


    12.jpg


    13.jpg

  • AbideAbide Council Member
    nice work! cant wait to see how it runs when you get the boosty bits on there.
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    I finally broke in the stock motor and it DOES NOT SMOKE anymore! Ive put about 10 miles on her and filled it up with gas. (NO tags or Inspection) Have to be careful. Here are some things I've done the last couple weeks
    -I installed new front brakes and rotors
    -Cleaned the car inside and out.


    Things that will be down in the next few weeks
    -Install dual core (eBay) radiator
    -New inner and outer tie rods
    -Lower ball joints
    -Windshield wipers
    -Tires 175-70-13, I can get all 4 for about $200 New (Hancook)


    I need to also install my innovative traction bar and buy the d series innovative motor mounts.

    177.jpg

    178.jpg

    186.jpg


    187.jpg

    188.jpg

    189.jpg

    190.jpg

    191.jpg

    192.jpg
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Guys I have a question. Answer me only if you know it will work!! do not guess

    First off let me say I HATE WIRING. So I was going to buy a conversion harness to swap from dpfi to mpfi and obd0-obd1 all in one harness(CJSWiring harness)

    This is truly a budget build and im trying to find ways around the expensive stuff to make it work just fine

    MY question is,

    The car is obd0 and dpfi
    I have a d16y8 manifold i will be putting on the d15b2
    I want to know if i can swap in a complete engine harness from a 92-95 civic (obd1) and hook up a P28 ecu(92-95 obd1)
    with that being said, I will be swapping the dizzy and alternator to obd1 units.

    So basically rip the old factory wiring harness out and put a complete obd1 harness in and plug a p28 ecu up. Be mindful, i will have a MPFI intake manifold, obd1 dizzy and obd1 alternator, so the motor will be ready.


  • AbideAbide Council Member
    I know just swapping the whole harness will be lacking some things. namely in the cluster. most of those are going to want a VSS. which you can wire in easily, but then your cluster isnt going to show speed or count miles. you can tie the wire in from the cluster though. There's probably a few more things that are on the chassis harness that youll have to splice in, but i cant think of anything off the top of my head. I'm sure you can make it work but its not going to direct swap.
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    Hey thanks a lot, didn't think about the cluster issue at all.
  • JLane91JLane91 New Wagonist
    So from the looks I'm prob. Just going to buy the CJs wiring harness.
Sign In or Register to comment.