Starting to get a little discouraged , don't know how to go about getting it all to fit. Looks like I'll have to remove the power steering lines to get access to the alternator pulley area. I've seen two installs where they had to beat in the fender for clearance. Maybe I'm just tired, bed for now, more head scratching in the morning.
OK! A little sleep and some back to basics poking around got us here:
I don't think we'll HAVE to smash in the fender for clearance, everything seems to move freely. The only challenge now is figuring out the best way to route the power steering hoses. I think we'll buy some new hose and route them over the top of the end of the charger then down to the hard lines.
A question we can't figure out. How does the whole FMU thing work? Does it go before or after the fuel rail? More research is needed. How does the setup for the stock FPR look? The FMU is the blue thing.
:!: *Did some searching* Do I even need the FMU? I'm running stock injectors right now and plan and getting a tune on a chipped p06 ecu.
Did you get the adapter harness for the TA sensor?
"You will be adding a wire harness extension (with resistor) to the TA sensorwires."
Or did you just make one? Know what resistor to use?
I'm just using the stock intake temp sensor, no pressure switch/resistor/relay. I didn't get any of those pieces with my kit, but this is how i understand it:
The JRSC kit used the pressure switch to identify boost, then the relay to resistor to "lie" to the ECU about intake temps while in boost. I guess it also signaled a jRSC control box to take over timing?
The rising rate FMU is used to ramp up the fuel pressure to force more fuel from the stock injectors.
I'm using only the manifold, the supercharger, the s-pipe, and the belt adapter assembly. The engine is stock except for DSM 450cc injectors. If you're having it chipped and tuned there's no need for the electrical side of the Jackson controller, and if you use larger injectors there's no need for the FMU. You can just add fuel by increasing pulse width.
That makes sense,I was guessing that the resistor was used for some sort of trickery. I guess the only thing I'll look at is the FMU as I don't know if i'm going to go with bigger injectors or not. I really only need it to run enough to drive it to a shop to get tuned.
I didn't see what ecu setup you are running; what are you plans for your tune?
*Oh ya If, you have it, what did you do with the last coolant line that runs behind under the stock manifold out of the oil filter area? There are not any more spots on the JR mani for it; we were gonna T it into the line leaving the throttle body area back into the main flow. I'm assuming this line is for *used* coolant heading back to the radiator.
I have one plugged off right behind the water pump on the steel transfer pipe. The JRSC has one less nipple than some stock intakes.
Think of it this way: Go from the the brass nipple sticking up by #4 intake runner to the FITV, from the FITV to the EACV, from the EACV back to the steel pipe behind the thermostat housing.
So it's just a loop that goes through those two valves. Makes it easier for me to look at it that way.
Just throwing it in, I believe they were tested and designed to run and a stock engine. I wouldn't up the boost much without at least a small rebuild. I plan on running stock boost on a conservative tune. Hoping for 130-150 hp.
We did it!!! Strangely enough there are no issues...so far. I drove it down to the gas station to get a tank of 91 and it ran nice with some noticeable boost. The is some hesitation on acceleration as well as what seems like a lack of fuel. All expected with no tune and stock injectors.The next course of action is converting to OBD1 and getting a solid tune. Totally happy with the results, pictures tomorrow.
Sorry for the late pictures
So far everything is running pretty good with stock ecu, internals, and tune. I have a idle hunting issue now that i'm assuming is the fitv. Strange that it started acting up right after I put the SC on.
Got a cheap boost gauge to see where it was at; it shows 2-3lbs of boost most of the time until i get past 5k rpm then it pushes to 4-5. Anything seem odd about that?
I talked to a guy from Moss motors about the charger and he was pretty adamant that the kit was designed to used on a stock motor, no tune needed. THe main thing that needs to be managed is AFR. I'll be picking up a wideband O2 soon to make sure everythings safe. If AFR is too high in boost I just need to get more fuel in whether that be through more pressure or tricking the ecu.
@BAMBAM- Talked to the guy about that TA "resistor" harness, it was an old design the later abandoned for that JR fuel management system. Like you said the resistor was meant to trick the ecu into thining the engine was cold while in boost in order to get more fuel in the engine. They since found better ways to do it.
Custom intake pipe :P, it's prebent exhaust pipe from auto parts store wrapped in electrical tape. It works
Happy to report 25 very spirited mpg last tank . The SC really gives this pig some nice driveability, Can pass on the freeway with out even dropping to 3rd (automatic).
I'm happy with the results for just slapping the SC on with a FMU. It was done on a mustang dyno which they say reads about 10% low. My AFR is perfect they said so there's really no need to do much else. Stock HP to the crank is 105 which is probably about 70 whp, so call it a gain of 40 whp? I'll take it.
All in all i'm pretty happy with it, it's a pretty damn easy 40-50 whp. The 4spd auto in this car is just a pig though so I think you lose a lot of the zip you would normal have with a manual. You also have to learn to drive a little different with the auto as far as making it downshift or no downshift when you want. It's pretty neat being able to go up grades in 4th gear now that I would normally do at 5k rpm in 3rd. It is a pretty unique fun project I'd have to say.
I supposed it's time for some updates! The car is still running great with no major problems. I blew out the header gasket on my used ebay header, no surprise, and had to replace it a few times due poor installation on my part.
I got tired of putting a towel under my left butt check in order to make the seat sit level so I swapped seat bottoms from pasenger to driver. After a little research on this great forum I dove in and found it to be pretty straight forward yet a lttle tedious. I just hace the driver seat done for now and what a comfort difference it make.
I installed some speaker pods a while back, they are in fantastic shape. The sound isn't as good as I'd like, I need to add some filler in the pods and seal up some air leaks. I also think my stock radio is dieing, the back right speaker goes in and out. I pulled the deck out and wiggled the harness to find it makes the sound cut in and out, so I think the issue is the unit itself or bad wires.
I went to a time attack last night in the Wagon which was my first time ever doing any sort of timed track event. It was super fun and the car ran great for being an automatic wagon in standard configuration. The gearing actually worked out pretty good for the small couse. I stuck in secound for pretty much the whole track minus a few tight turns where I could have dropped to first for a brief moment but I didn't feel like pushing the car that hard. If I were to do anymore track time I would need to lower the car some and get some summer tires. The car is a blast to drive around a track though. I was running 58 second laps, slowest of the night :cool:. My friend in his stock 86 BMW 325e was running 57's. It looked like stockish Miatas were running 53-54 and a brand new FR-S was running about 49-52. Actuall there was a FIT running about 50-53's, seemed lowered with some bolt ons.
Too long without updates, sorry! The car is now un-supercharged :nightmare:, went back to stock. While the fmu did it's job, running on stock ecu with an automatic had it's hiccups. If i didn't control the throttle just right it did funny things at neutral vacuum, 0 psi, and would bog and throw a code. I figured the fmu was ready for boost to come on at 0 psi and would start to give more fuel, but if i didn't actually push to car into boost i guess it would go rich and trow a code or something. In the end the supercharger was great power and fun for the money and ease of install. It's not like the car was crazy fast or anything, so I decided I'd had my fun and moved on. But DAYUM I forgot how slow this RT auto pig was :smug:, it's just a DD cruiser so it's cool.
Other than that nothing else has changed. I'll post some updated pics soon.
Too long without updates, sorry! The car is now un-supercharged :nightmare:, went back to stock. While the fmu did it's job, running on stock ecu with an automatic had it's hiccups. If i didn't control the throttle just right it did funny things at neutral vacuum, 0 psi, and would bog and throw a code. I figured the fmu was ready for boost to come on at 0 psi and would start to give more fuel, but if i didn't actually push to car into boost i guess it would go rich and trow a code or something. In the end the supercharger was great power and fun for the money and ease of install. It's not like the car was crazy fast or anything, so I decided I'd had my fun and moved on. But DAYUM I forgot how slow this RT auto pig was :smug:, it's just a DD cruiser so it's cool.
Other than that nothing else has changed. I'll post some updated pics soon.
nice wagon met you once i believe i was gonna trade you my ferio eg sedan for it in norco nice wagon btw
nice wagon met you once i believe i was gonna trade you my ferio eg sedan for it in norco nice wagon btw
Ya I remember, thanks.
No it wasn't tuned, just had the FMU. When I had it dyno'd the guy said the AFRs looked good and tunning it with such low boost wouldn't do much. I had a bung put it for a wide band but never installed it lol, The plug for it seized so I just said screw it.
Drmorty, you'll have a ton of fun with that. While the 4sp auto is kind of a pig the long gears make for some long sexy whining shifts :tickled_pink:
Decided to do a little trail riding after a rain storm here, turned around half way in as I didn't realize there was so much clay on the trail. That stuff doesn't look real muddy but man when you get in it is extra slick. I was afraid I was gonna just slide off the trail. The Ole Girl did well.
Comments
I don't think we'll HAVE to smash in the fender for clearance, everything seems to move freely. The only challenge now is figuring out the best way to route the power steering hoses. I think we'll buy some new hose and route them over the top of the end of the charger then down to the hard lines.
A question we can't figure out. How does the whole FMU thing work? Does it go before or after the fuel rail? More research is needed. How does the setup for the stock FPR look? The FMU is the blue thing.
:!: *Did some searching* Do I even need the FMU? I'm running stock injectors right now and plan and getting a tune on a chipped p06 ecu.
those questions are covered in the instructions. IIRC, the power steering lines are supposed to go up and over the shock tower.
I didn't use the FMU with mine, but I have 450cc injectors and a tune.
Did you get the adapter harness for the TA sensor?
"You will be adding a wire harness extension (with resistor) to the TA sensorwires."
Or did you just make one? Know what resistor to use?
The JRSC kit used the pressure switch to identify boost, then the relay to resistor to "lie" to the ECU about intake temps while in boost. I guess it also signaled a jRSC control box to take over timing?
The rising rate FMU is used to ramp up the fuel pressure to force more fuel from the stock injectors.
I'm using only the manifold, the supercharger, the s-pipe, and the belt adapter assembly. The engine is stock except for DSM 450cc injectors. If you're having it chipped and tuned there's no need for the electrical side of the Jackson controller, and if you use larger injectors there's no need for the FMU. You can just add fuel by increasing pulse width.
I didn't see what ecu setup you are running; what are you plans for your tune?
*Oh ya If, you have it, what did you do with the last coolant line that runs behind under the stock manifold out of the oil filter area? There are not any more spots on the JR mani for it; we were gonna T it into the line leaving the throttle body area back into the main flow. I'm assuming this line is for *used* coolant heading back to the radiator.
Think of it this way: Go from the the brass nipple sticking up by #4 intake runner to the FITV, from the FITV to the EACV, from the EACV back to the steel pipe behind the thermostat housing.
So it's just a loop that goes through those two valves. Makes it easier for me to look at it that way.
Turns out we do need to frame beating, the belt rubs the fender a bit.
Disassembly, smash frame, go vroom.
So far everything is running pretty good with stock ecu, internals, and tune. I have a idle hunting issue now that i'm assuming is the fitv. Strange that it started acting up right after I put the SC on.
Got a cheap boost gauge to see where it was at; it shows 2-3lbs of boost most of the time until i get past 5k rpm then it pushes to 4-5. Anything seem odd about that?
I talked to a guy from Moss motors about the charger and he was pretty adamant that the kit was designed to used on a stock motor, no tune needed. THe main thing that needs to be managed is AFR. I'll be picking up a wideband O2 soon to make sure everythings safe. If AFR is too high in boost I just need to get more fuel in whether that be through more pressure or tricking the ecu.
@BAMBAM- Talked to the guy about that TA "resistor" harness, it was an old design the later abandoned for that JR fuel management system. Like you said the resistor was meant to trick the ecu into thining the engine was cold while in boost in order to get more fuel in the engine. They since found better ways to do it.
Custom intake pipe :P, it's prebent exhaust pipe from auto parts store wrapped in electrical tape. It works
Engine bay
Recycling stock bolt holes for FMU
111 hp and 124 Ft/lbs
I'm happy with the results for just slapping the SC on with a FMU. It was done on a mustang dyno which they say reads about 10% low. My AFR is perfect they said so there's really no need to do much else. Stock HP to the crank is 105 which is probably about 70 whp, so call it a gain of 40 whp? I'll take it.
*Forgot to mention it was done in 2wd.*
From a stop
http://youtu.be/t8no1LX9k4M
on freeway
http://youtu.be/PXzk0fho8Z0
*Crap isn't there a specific way I'm supposed to add videos, I searched and can't find it.*
I got tired of putting a towel under my left butt check in order to make the seat sit level so I swapped seat bottoms from pasenger to driver. After a little research on this great forum I dove in and found it to be pretty straight forward yet a lttle tedious. I just hace the driver seat done for now and what a comfort difference it make.
I installed some speaker pods a while back, they are in fantastic shape. The sound isn't as good as I'd like, I need to add some filler in the pods and seal up some air leaks. I also think my stock radio is dieing, the back right speaker goes in and out. I pulled the deck out and wiggled the harness to find it makes the sound cut in and out, so I think the issue is the unit itself or bad wires.
I went to a time attack last night in the Wagon which was my first time ever doing any sort of timed track event. It was super fun and the car ran great for being an automatic wagon in standard configuration. The gearing actually worked out pretty good for the small couse. I stuck in secound for pretty much the whole track minus a few tight turns where I could have dropped to first for a brief moment but I didn't feel like pushing the car that hard. If I were to do anymore track time I would need to lower the car some and get some summer tires. The car is a blast to drive around a track though. I was running 58 second laps, slowest of the night :cool:. My friend in his stock 86 BMW 325e was running 57's. It looked like stockish Miatas were running 53-54 and a brand new FR-S was running about 49-52. Actuall there was a FIT running about 50-53's, seemed lowered with some bolt ons.
Other than that nothing else has changed. I'll post some updated pics soon.
Did you get yours tuned??? and did you run a wideband o2?
nice wagon met you once i believe i was gonna trade you my ferio eg sedan for it in norco nice wagon btw
No it wasn't tuned, just had the FMU. When I had it dyno'd the guy said the AFRs looked good and tunning it with such low boost wouldn't do much. I had a bung put it for a wide band but never installed it lol, The plug for it seized so I just said screw it.
Drmorty, you'll have a ton of fun with that. While the 4sp auto is kind of a pig the long gears make for some long sexy whining shifts :tickled_pink:
And driving with my bitches.