No, more like Hapeville or East Point... or one of those communities. I forget the street name (I always do) but it's across the street from a glassworks I think. Or at least across the street from a plant operated by a company I associated with glass when I drove by. Near the Airport.
This place is very closed and in an iffy area of that community. It has an interesting looking lobby but the exterior windows are likely too close to the ground for the safety of guests and guests' possessions.
While trying to decide on a good place to put jack stands under the front of the Wagon for an oil change this weekend I noticed a bushing that had slid out of its collar on the suspension stabilizer bar. Could this be the source of the sharp 'thack!' that I was feeling from the right front whenever I drove any sort of bump? Well, as long as I was under there I persuaded the bushing back into its collar. So far, so good.
bushing on the swaybar in a u-shaped bracket? That'd be a big knocking noise.
That'd be the one. It'll eventually need a new bushing since the shoulder on one side got chewed up during it's slide out of the bracket. But the meat of it was okay so I got it back into place.
Here's a pic of the jack stand. The collar and it's errant bushing are at the right edge of the pic.
How do you guys get the AC so cold? Some days, mine freezes me out, others it blows only cool...
It just can't keep up with 105 and the sun blasting in the windshield.
This is question that can be fully explained by bam-bam but here's the way I think of it; your a/c only works relative to your local ambient temperature. So if it's 85 degrees outside your a/c may be able to get the internal temp down to something like 15 to 20 degrees lower than ambient so it'll be 70 to 65 degrees inside. So on those "nice" days when the ambient temp gets to 105 your a/c can only knock 15 to 20 degrees off of that meaning it'll be 90 to 85 degrees in the car. There's only so much the a/c is capable of doing.
Further help would be window tint (it's not just for kids) or better insulating the cabin of the car, particularly the roof. If your think about a refrigerator there's quite a bit of insulation in the outer walls that helps keep the internal temp low while your car has much less and most of that is on the firewall and floorboard.
How do you guys get the AC so cold? Some days, mine freezes me out, others it blows only cool...
It just can't keep up with 105 and the sun blasting in the windshield.
This is question that can be fully explained by bam-bam but here's the way I think of it; your a/c only works relative to your local ambient temperature. So if it's 85 degrees outside your a/c may be able to get the internal temp down to something like 15 to 20 degrees lower than ambient so it'll be 70 to 65 degrees inside. So on those "nice" days when the ambient temp gets to 105 your a/c can only knock 15 to 20 degrees off of that meaning it'll be 90 to 85 degrees in the car. There's only so much the a/c is capable of doing.
Further help would be window tint (it's not just for kids) or better insulating the cabin of the car, particularly the roof. If your think about a refrigerator there's quite a bit of insulation in the outer walls that helps keep the internal temp low while your car has much less and most of that is on the firewall and floorboard.
Good explination.....Where you on the phone with Bam?lol j/k Anymore updates? Did you get the pods put in yet?
Good explination.....Where you on the phone with Bam?lol j/k Anymore updates? Did you get the pods put in yet?
No, I've just had it explained to me by Bam, lol! He used small words so I could understand. I'm short the pigtails to hook up the speaker pods and short the money to go get them from the Pull-A-Part. AND I screwed up the tracks for the roof rack so I need to get another of those when i get back to P-A-P. Should cost about $20. Depressing.
On a lighter note, I think I've found the right size wheels for my ride! these just happened to be on a Ford Exploder... so I guess I'll still need to find the right lug pattern.
What are those? 12 inches?
Hey it's October! And what does October make you think about?
Stripping a valve cover and intake cover for paint!
I forgot to take a before picture. Here's one at the second coating of stripper.
Weapon of choice is this product from Klean-Strip found at my local Walled*Mart. I don't know the exact name and I've thrown away the empty can. It does work as advertised!
The areas showing discoloration are where the aluminum was exposed and corroded over the years. The faint line on the airbox cover is from a different paint than the original wrinkle; it had been touched up before.
Lucky for me, this is a set that bam-bam gave me to dress up and I still have a serviceable set on the car! I imagine this could be done in one day and re-installed but it'd be hard to allow the paint time to cure. As it is I hope to string together enough warm and clear days to get this done... soonish. Honest to Bob this is one of the wonderful things about living in the South. It October and I'm in shirtsleeves in the back yard working on a painting project!
Next up I think I'll give it a once over with some sort of abrasive; either Scotch-brite or fine grain similar product from Norton meant to simulate #0 steel wool. I'll see what it takes to get the remaining paint off and / or smooth it out in less obvious places.
One thing I can't remember from other folks doing this: Do you mask off the lettering you want to end up bare or do you paint it and scrape the paint off later with a razor? I think I've heard it both ways.
Good explination.....Where you on the phone with Bam?lol j/k Anymore updates? Did you get the pods put in yet?
No, I've just had it explained to me by Bam, lol! He used small words so I could understand. I'm short the pigtails to hook up the speaker pods and short the money to go get them from the Pull-A-Part. AND I screwed up the tracks for the roof rack so I need to get another of those when i get back to P-A-P. Should cost about $20. Depressing.
On a lighter note, I think I've found the right size wheels for my ride! these just happened to be on a Ford Exploder... so I guess I'll still need to find the right lug pattern.
What are those? 12 inches?
I'm not sure: I couldn't get close enough in traffic. Certainly could have been considering the pointy center caps. It just cracked me up to see such itty-bitty weenie wheels on an SUV.
Remember when I said I had ordered a window regulator for the left front door? Well, I thought I'd get it installed today.
Start with one of these.
Once you get the window crank off be sure that you have these three parts: crank, trim ring and clip to hold the whole thing together.
A good idea is to go ahead and install the clip on the crank. That way it'll be easy to locate when you want to put the thing back together.
Here's what you DON'T want to have happen when you try to move the window crank post. (Click the pic to see a vid clip... Can't figure out how to embed it properly.)
Here's a picture of the plastic moisture barrier on the inside of the door. Handle it carefully. It's the only brittle 20 year old plastic I've found on my wagon.
Find these two brass-looking bolts at the bottom of the glass. You'll need to roll the window up a little from the bottom so that the front one lines up with the access hole. Loosen these bolts but DO NOT remove them completely. the are in "keyhole" slots and the window is meant to slide forward and out of the keyholes.
Next thing you lift the glass out of the door sort of like how a Lamborghini door opens. Once it's out put it some where safe.
Pull out the brand new part from your favorite online Honda parts source. Notice that the clever folks at Honda put green 'witness' marks on two bolts, where the spring is supposed to be, and one end of the shorter track. These are where you'll attach it first.
The bolts slide into these keyholes just behind the crank post.
The end of the track will attach to one of the two hole at the top of this pic. I bolted the marked end toward the rear.
Here's the bolts on the bottom of the glass. You probably want to loosen these as much as possible while keeping the fully threaded into the tab so that you'll have an easier time hitting the keyholes in the bottom slider.
Reassemble all parts in reverse order of what's seen above.
way to go.
Did you lube the window tracks before you finished it all up?
I see "The Master" has taught you well young one, welcome to the dark side of working on your own car.
I did not lube the tracks and it's something I'll need to go back in and do. Remedial work, you know?
Somewhere around here I've got some spray-on dry-lube silicon (goes on in a spray but dries down almost immediately.) I'm wondering if that will be my best bet for lubing the tracks. What do you think?
can you sand it will fine grit sandpaper?
Mine is the bare alum color.
I've got a really good idea for my b series cover but need to find somebody that is good with airbrushes.
Can I? Well, I suppose. Will I? Probably not, lol.
No, the piece is molded with a texture to the surface of the cover (because it was intended to be painted with wrinkle paint.) In order to get it smooth enough for gloss paint I'd need to grind it down. So I'll either paint it as is (once clean and free of corrosion) or I'll prepare the surface a different way and then paint for color. I guess in reality I could just paint the textured surface and see how close to wrinkle it looks, lol.
Somebody on the boards says they do custom painted valve covers in the sig line... I'll have to look for him.
ETA: 503Wagon is the user whose sig line says, "Pm me if you're interested in a custom painted valve cover."
Buy a can of filler-primer. Just regular automotive primer, it has high solids to fill surface textures. Apply coats until the can is gone, following drying time directions blahblah. Between that and several coats of gloss enamel you'll flow right over that texture.
Hint: never paint cold metal. Especially if you desire a glossy finish.
Comments
looked like the hotel that rents by the minute off fulton industrial blvd right as you get off the exit.
Usually has lots of lot lizards in it.
It just can't keep up with 105 and the sun blasting in the windshield.
Here's a pic of the jack stand. The collar and it's errant bushing are at the right edge of the pic.
Further help would be window tint (it's not just for kids) or better insulating the cabin of the car, particularly the roof. If your think about a refrigerator there's quite a bit of insulation in the outer walls that helps keep the internal temp low while your car has much less and most of that is on the firewall and floorboard.
On a lighter note, I think I've found the right size wheels for my ride! these just happened to be on a Ford Exploder... so I guess I'll still need to find the right lug pattern.
What are those? 12 inches?
Stripping a valve cover and intake cover for paint!
I forgot to take a before picture. Here's one at the second coating of stripper.
Weapon of choice is this product from Klean-Strip found at my local Walled*Mart. I don't know the exact name and I've thrown away the empty can. It does work as advertised!
The areas showing discoloration are where the aluminum was exposed and corroded over the years. The faint line on the airbox cover is from a different paint than the original wrinkle; it had been touched up before.
Lucky for me, this is a set that bam-bam gave me to dress up and I still have a serviceable set on the car! I imagine this could be done in one day and re-installed but it'd be hard to allow the paint time to cure. As it is I hope to string together enough warm and clear days to get this done... soonish. Honest to Bob this is one of the wonderful things about living in the South. It October and I'm in shirtsleeves in the back yard working on a painting project!
Next up I think I'll give it a once over with some sort of abrasive; either Scotch-brite or fine grain similar product from Norton meant to simulate #0 steel wool. I'll see what it takes to get the remaining paint off and / or smooth it out in less obvious places.
One thing I can't remember from other folks doing this: Do you mask off the lettering you want to end up bare or do you paint it and scrape the paint off later with a razor? I think I've heard it both ways.
They arent dayton wire wheels are they?lol
Start with one of these.
Once you get the window crank off be sure that you have these three parts: crank, trim ring and clip to hold the whole thing together.
A good idea is to go ahead and install the clip on the crank. That way it'll be easy to locate when you want to put the thing back together.
Here's what you DON'T want to have happen when you try to move the window crank post. (Click the pic to see a vid clip... Can't figure out how to embed it properly.)
Here's a picture of the plastic moisture barrier on the inside of the door. Handle it carefully. It's the only brittle 20 year old plastic I've found on my wagon.
Find these two brass-looking bolts at the bottom of the glass. You'll need to roll the window up a little from the bottom so that the front one lines up with the access hole. Loosen these bolts but DO NOT remove them completely. the are in "keyhole" slots and the window is meant to slide forward and out of the keyholes.
Next thing you lift the glass out of the door sort of like how a Lamborghini door opens. Once it's out put it some where safe.
Pull out the brand new part from your favorite online Honda parts source. Notice that the clever folks at Honda put green 'witness' marks on two bolts, where the spring is supposed to be, and one end of the shorter track. These are where you'll attach it first.
The bolts slide into these keyholes just behind the crank post.
The end of the track will attach to one of the two hole at the top of this pic. I bolted the marked end toward the rear.
Here's the bolts on the bottom of the glass. You probably want to loosen these as much as possible while keeping the fully threaded into the tab so that you'll have an easier time hitting the keyholes in the bottom slider.
Reassemble all parts in reverse order of what's seen above.
LOL, I bet. I bet it's as smooth as silk though.
Did you lube the window tracks before you finished it all up?
I see "The Master" has taught you well young one, welcome to the dark side of working on your own car.
Somewhere around here I've got some spray-on dry-lube silicon (goes on in a spray but dries down almost immediately.) I'm wondering if that will be my best bet for lubing the tracks. What do you think?
I did that on mine plus also bearings grease on gear rack.
Mine is the bare alum color.
I've got a really good idea for my b series cover but need to find somebody that is good with airbrushes.
No, the piece is molded with a texture to the surface of the cover (because it was intended to be painted with wrinkle paint.) In order to get it smooth enough for gloss paint I'd need to grind it down. So I'll either paint it as is (once clean and free of corrosion) or I'll prepare the surface a different way and then paint for color. I guess in reality I could just paint the textured surface and see how close to wrinkle it looks, lol.
Somebody on the boards says they do custom painted valve covers in the sig line... I'll have to look for him.
ETA: 503Wagon is the user whose sig line says, "Pm me if you're interested in a custom painted valve cover."
I'm the same way, a clean textured black on looks good.
red also looks good.
Hint: never paint cold metal. Especially if you desire a glossy finish.