How did you run the rear brake lines? (I'm guessing you're taking about the hard lines inside) I'm at the same stage... I ripped all my factory lines out and am replacing with stainless steel. Just wondering your routing...
Oh okay. Thank you for the picture. I'm debating whether or not to weld the rear outlet for the brake lines shut and just use a bulk head to go into the rear fender.
Very nice, how much ground clearance have you gained at the rockers?
A bunch. I'll have to get a measurement when it gets back on the ground.
These here don't help with rocker clearance, but are necessary to protect the goodies
PorterWagonneer was over here tonight helping out with his superior welding skills. He would have finished, but we were having a contest to see what ran out first...
The gas
Or the wire
The wire won. While Pat was welding, I cut pieces for the new front strut spacers, ans modded on the battery tray to drop it
Also played with AC mount, cleaned up a compressor and some lines to use.
We're really picking up steam now! Hope to hear it run this weekend...
made the new strut spacers to drop the front a half-inch today, after going to town to get gas and wire. Then Pat came and welded some more, finishing the skidplate thingies.
Tomorrow I'll install the front suspension along with the brakes and cv axles...
Since the trailing arm pivots are dropped four inches, they were left exposed. Also, the mounts for the toe- in compensator links were below the floorpan. The slanted portion is a combination brace and skidplate. The new outer cover just ties it all together.
I got around to reading the replies around midnight last night and literally just busted out laughing when I read your response. It was definitely a classic.
Guess i'll have to go whole hog, huh? Put a shovel on the other side of the roof basket and jerrycans on the back?
In update news: I started on the exhaust last night, should be finished today. well, finished back to the rear diff crossmember. from there to the bumper I'll run a straight pipe for now. The rest will wait until after the hitch is installed.
even i need a hi-lift jack to get my wagon up.my low profile jack doesnt even get the tires off the ground. i have a 3ton that does...but what happens when i get a flat haha.
Comments
I really can't say specifically. I just don't like the idea of another piece sandwiched in there. Had a bad experience once with a dune buggy.
All I did was move the hardline mount on the trailing arm higher, to allow the fllex hose to reach. The steel line on the body is unaltered.
I hate when people cut these boots
I had to depin the plug to replace one that had been opened with a razor.
Also cut some pieces for the side of the rear skidplates
Ground clearance makes me grin
A bunch. I'll have to get a measurement when it gets back on the ground.
These here don't help with rocker clearance, but are necessary to protect the goodies
PorterWagonneer was over here tonight helping out with his superior welding skills. He would have finished, but we were having a contest to see what ran out first...
The gas
Or the wire
The wire won. While Pat was welding, I cut pieces for the new front strut spacers, ans modded on the battery tray to drop it
Also played with AC mount, cleaned up a compressor and some lines to use.
We're really picking up steam now! Hope to hear it run this weekend...
Nice work!
Tomorrow I'll install the front suspension along with the brakes and cv axles...
Hopefully she'll steer freely once that's done.
Swapped out the front struts/spacers for some a half-inch shorter
Dad still just shaking his head
As she sits now. I need to lift the back another inch and a half to level it i think. That will wait until after it's tuned. No time right now!
The question is: what kind of jack am I to carry along with me? The original jacking points are 18"+ from the ground.
HI-LIFT Lift-Mate for use with HI-LIFT Jacks, Model# LM-100 | Farm Jacks | Northern Tool + Equipment
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... s-_-144215
I got around to reading the replies around midnight last night and literally just busted out laughing when I read your response. It was definitely a classic.
In update news: I started on the exhaust last night, should be finished today. well, finished back to the rear diff crossmember. from there to the bumper I'll run a straight pipe for now. The rest will wait until after the hitch is installed.
I'll take two perfectly good stock jacks and destroy one of them for parts to make the other one go higher!
Just got get a Harbor Freight Farm Jack and mount it on the roof/utility rack...
Dad, actually wondering if you know that Honda came out with a 4wd CRV...
Then wondering if you noticed the 13 Jeep Cherokees for sale on the way over from his house...
And, then dad wondering if you are compensating for something by trying to make Little Things Bigger!!!
I wanted it to be one-piece, to go over the driveline but not have an extra joint. Whole assembly can be removed by dropping the rear shaft.
As I said before, the axleback section will be completed after the hitch is done.