Ok so no drifting, but we want autocross vids! Once again, beautiful car. Con not wait for a write up on some of the more in depth details of this build.
i see jaker seems to be the one on i seen to do a RWD conversion. is there a write up on how he did it?
or is there any write ups on how to do it.
i have a built (vitra,eagle) a6/z6 turbo and i want to dyno it . also i want to toy around with a rwd honda but dont want a s2k also i want to get in to the autocross/ drifting and i think it wouild be bad ass to do it in a honda wagon.
i have the skills and know how and tools to do think kinda work i just would like to see a few other that did it befori tackle it and do it my way.
and yes i know i can just do a f20c s2k swap but i want to try it this way and see how it holds up. and if it dont hold up i will look in to doing some sort or swap.
I finally finished welding in the hard points for the diff subframe, and bolted some stuff in for mock-up. It looks pretty sick with the gigantic driveshaft taking up over 1/2 the tunnel. I'm going to be hard pressed to fit the exhaust without some more massaging. And just when I thought I was done lying on my back,having slag and molten metal falling all over myself.
The diff in the pics is only for mock-up. The one that is fully rebuilt with the OBX LSD is in one of the later pics.
To bump this back up, and ask an opinion from you Jaker:
How confident are you that the RT4WD transmission will withstand moderate off-road [rally] and track abuse with say, 200whp?
I'm considering sourcing another transmission, VC, rear diff and axles, and having the diff & VC welded so I can have either 50/50 AWD or 100% RWD. I'll more than likely be drifting as well, with a max tire size of 205/50HR15 out back. I have no intentions of removing any of the internals from the transmission as you have, as I would prefer to have the option of swapping to an open rear diff and unlocked VC to have the OEM 4WD without swapping transmissions.
I don't think I can comment on the durability of the drivetrain at this point. Once I have some time on the car, and beat on it a bunch, I'll feel a little more confident in my opinions. I myself have some reservations about what I'm doing, but I figure if I don't try, I'll never know. dutchaccord over on H-T has built a twin charged D series rally raid EG with 4WD using a transmission from one of the european 4WD 92-95 generation cars and a bunch of other Honda 4WD parts, and he'll be beating on it soon enough. He's getting tuned on Saturday.
I got some more stuff done on my build. I got my CF hood from cmerce about 2 weeks ago, and it's all mounted up and pretty much ready to go:
Also, over the last day or 2, I welded up a 3" down pipe for my Kamikaze header to snake it's way around the transfer case. I still have to add the O2 sensor bung, and the ball joint flange, and then I'm going to get it ceramic coated to match the upper part of the header. The pipe passes close enough to the transfer case that I'll have to grind the heads of the transfer case bolts down to about 1/2 their height, and the pipe hangs down pretty low, but I won't be running the car that low to the ground, so I don't think it'll be that big a problem. It also gets snuggly with the oil pan, but I think I have enough room that I'll be able to wrap the pipe under the pan.
jaker i have another question. simply pluging the front axles, will that give you rwd? will all the power be send to the rear wheels or do you have to pull the rear diff apart and remove the clutch packs or something of that nature. i was told just plugin the wholes in the front wont send all power to the rear is that true? let me know thanks. i would love to chat if you didnt mind i stil have many questions my number is 941 779 5817 feel free to call anytime thanks jeff
it might work... for a little while, but i would bet there would be a slight delay between pressing the pedal and the actual throttle response... not to mention you would be running a solid rear end, which would just be a really bad idea
The inside of the Wagovan and CRV 4WD transmissions send the power equally to the front and the rear. If there are no front driveshafts, 100% of the power will go to the transfer case and into the driveshaft. In the case of the Wagon driveshaft, that gets translated into some sort of torque split by the viscous coupler in the driveshaft itself. The Wagon rear diff is no different than any other RWD rear diff/pumpkin. However, with the CRV, there's the clutch packs, and oil pumps that vary the output to the back wheels.
If I was keeping the Wagon driveshaft, I would either eliminate or find some way of welding up the viscous coupler or as I am doing, replace the whole driveshaft.
thanks again jaker also how much was your driveshaft and does a cf one have to be used or can i just use a normal shaft that a shop could custom make?! and your driveshaft is a one piece correct?! and what is better to hold more power 1 or 2 piece let me know thanks soo much for all your help also where you get that cf hood soo sexy!!!
The one and only reason I went CF was because I didn't want to deal with having a center bearing and the mounting that I would have had to fabricate for it (my chassis started as a FWD). The driveshaft could not reasonably have been made that long, one piece in any other material. OK, I wanted the bling too, but that was secondary.
It was 1K . You could do a 2 piece easily if you are starting with the RT4WD chassis or your willing to mount the center bearing support on your FWD chassis. Pretty much any decent driveshaft shop should be able to do the fabrication. Either way you go, it should be good for 400+ horsepower. I told the guy at ACPT that I was going to be putting 400 through the rear wheels, and he said it would easily handle that kind of power.
The CF hood was custom made for me by cmerce, and he's making more. Look here:
ook yea i have the rt4wd shell already so i guess 2 piece is the way to go and i think most shops can do it for like 100 bucks or so.
if im not mistaken. i will be makin just under 400hp i just got a fully built d16a6!!! will post pics soon. and your not worried about the rear diff gettin overheated i heat alot of the fellow wagon doods stressing that?! with 100 percent od the power to the rear but i dont see why it would its an open diff like any other rwd car.
I'm not worried about overheating the rear diff. It's basically the same size as a Miata rear diff, and I'm not road racing the car, only autocross and street driving. I did buy some good diff oil though, Red Line Lightweight Shock Proof.
If I were going to road race the car, I would install a diff cooler.
I'm not worried about overheating the rear diff. It's basically the same size as a Miata rear diff, and I'm not road racing the car, only autocross and street driving. I did buy some good diff oil though, Red Line Lightweight Shock Proof.
If I were going to road race the car, I would install a diff cooler.
Hey Jaker if you want the Nissan S13 over here comes with a stock diff cooler and electric diff cooler pump. Rather cheap if you ever want one. I will be putting one on both my AE86's.
ACPT (the company that made the driveshaft) could not source u-joints that were compatible with the OEM Honda flanges on my differential and transfer case. They tried OEM and aftermarket and there was nothing available (as most of you already know). The next option was to adapt something that was readily available (off the shelf north american iron u-joints) to my Honda flanges. This also makes it much easier to repair/replace if I should have a u-joint failure.
Thanks for the head's up Ragen. If I decide I need a cooler I'll certainly look you up. I got the wheels today from that guy in PA. Turns out he only showed pics of the 1 good wheel. The other one is kind of beat up. I've messaged him for a partial refund. Let's see if he's a stand up guy!
Pipe's finished, but I won't have any pics of it installed for quite a while. The motor's out of the car again for some other work, and I don't see myself getting back to it for some time. I've been busy with other things for the last little while, and there's more to be done. In-laws are coming for Christmas, and I've been told that I have to finish the kitchen reno that I started in June 2008 before they get here in mid-December.
My latest project:
I still have to finish some outside trim work, insulate the inside walls and ceiling, put in some electrical (not in that order ) and install the workbench. Then when that's done I get to work on the kitchen . I'm just glad I got the roof on before the Monsoons came.
Here's some pics of the downpipe. I don't know yet how well the wrap is going to clear the oil pan and transfer case. We'll see when I put it back together.
Comments
wagon..............................4ever......................
or is there any write ups on how to do it.
i have a built (vitra,eagle) a6/z6 turbo and i want to dyno it . also i want to toy around with a rwd honda but dont want a s2k also i want to get in to the autocross/ drifting and i think it wouild be bad ass to do it in a honda wagon.
i have the skills and know how and tools to do think kinda work i just would like to see a few other that did it befori tackle it and do it my way.
and yes i know i can just do a f20c s2k swap but i want to try it this way and see how it holds up. and if it dont hold up i will look in to doing some sort or swap.
The diff in the pics is only for mock-up. The one that is fully rebuilt with the OBX LSD is in one of the later pics.
Here's the engine bay as it currently stands:
And the hatch area/storage/clean room!
I've really got to read up on the rear LSD installation and modification, it would work wonders with my planned D17 stroker.
OT but; Quite seriously considering getting a D17 block for my D15B head and chucking a bit of boost up it's arse.
How confident are you that the RT4WD transmission will withstand moderate off-road [rally] and track abuse with say, 200whp?
I'm considering sourcing another transmission, VC, rear diff and axles, and having the diff & VC welded so I can have either 50/50 AWD or 100% RWD. I'll more than likely be drifting as well, with a max tire size of 205/50HR15 out back. I have no intentions of removing any of the internals from the transmission as you have, as I would prefer to have the option of swapping to an open rear diff and unlocked VC to have the OEM 4WD without swapping transmissions.
I don't think I can comment on the durability of the drivetrain at this point. Once I have some time on the car, and beat on it a bunch, I'll feel a little more confident in my opinions. I myself have some reservations about what I'm doing, but I figure if I don't try, I'll never know. dutchaccord over on H-T has built a twin charged D series rally raid EG with 4WD using a transmission from one of the european 4WD 92-95 generation cars and a bunch of other Honda 4WD parts, and he'll be beating on it soon enough. He's getting tuned on Saturday.
I got some more stuff done on my build. I got my CF hood from cmerce about 2 weeks ago, and it's all mounted up and pretty much ready to go:
Also, over the last day or 2, I welded up a 3" down pipe for my Kamikaze header to snake it's way around the transfer case. I still have to add the O2 sensor bung, and the ball joint flange, and then I'm going to get it ceramic coated to match the upper part of the header. The pipe passes close enough to the transfer case that I'll have to grind the heads of the transfer case bolts down to about 1/2 their height, and the pipe hangs down pretty low, but I won't be running the car that low to the ground, so I don't think it'll be that big a problem. It also gets snuggly with the oil pan, but I think I have enough room that I'll be able to wrap the pipe under the pan.
mattyj
If I was keeping the Wagon driveshaft, I would either eliminate or find some way of welding up the viscous coupler or as I am doing, replace the whole driveshaft.
WTF is the stuffed animal but doing under there???
jaker....the guy..d above your post is my buddy that rebuilt my tranny for me....if you got trans questions...hes the man
CF hood is epic.
It was 1K
The CF hood was custom made for me by cmerce, and he's making more. Look here:
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4912
if im not mistaken. i will be makin just under 400hp i just got a fully built d16a6!!! will post pics soon. and your not worried about the rear diff gettin overheated i heat alot of the fellow wagon doods stressing that?! with 100 percent od the power to the rear but i dont see why it would its an open diff like any other rwd car.
If I were going to road race the car, I would install a diff cooler.
Hey Jaker if you want the Nissan S13 over here comes with a stock diff cooler and electric diff cooler pump. Rather cheap if you ever want one. I will be putting one on both my AE86's.
Thanks for the head's up Ragen. If I decide I need a cooler I'll certainly look you up. I got the wheels today from that guy in PA. Turns out he only showed pics of the 1 good wheel. The other one is kind of beat up. I've messaged him for a partial refund. Let's see if he's a stand up guy!
I love your confidence in our driveline, Jaker. Really makes me think I can get away with some stupidly-awesome stuff without breaking things.
Clearance and if your thoughts were correct ?
I keep looking at it and it scares me.
My latest project:
I still have to finish some outside trim work, insulate the inside walls and ceiling, put in some electrical (not in that order
Here's some pics of the downpipe. I don't know yet how well the wrap is going to clear the oil pan and transfer case. We'll see when I put it back together.