try rerunning the wires to your dizzy. i did that and that is when i noticed the b10-b12 pins were in the wrong spots. and check your dizzy plug pins. mine were actually a lil loose. good luck dude. mine just went out again and it is getting old fast.
i did have the B10 and B12 backwards when i first did the MPFI swap almost 1.5 years ago, so i know thats right now. i jammed the plugs together as best i could. car is fine now, but who knows...
its like a girl PMSing every so often, then not. so i cant check it really :x
so i was driving around, ya know, nothing special. i go to the bank. stop the car. come back after 3 minutes, crank it up, its all good. start to take off and i stalled it, basically like didnt give enough gas i guess. so i crank it back up, it starts, but instantly the CEL comes on, and it starts sputtering real bad. anyways i drive it back to my parking spot at school, and the ride was rough. if i gave gas it bogged.
so i checked the CEL, and now its the code 4 AND code 16.. injectors.
i am starting to wonder if all these problems may be related to the fact that i have an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump??
back to code 4, i have already replaced all those parts and checked things over so much, and now this fuel injector issue.. fishy.
Just an idea: Did you add a plug for the swap wiring where you can unplug it with the engine harness? I'm just thinking that those 2 codes could be in those 4 wires.
The reason this occurs to me is that I've had Intake sensor codes repeatedly, and it comes down to water intrusion/corrosion in the plug each time.(I probably wash my engine too much :oops: )
Inspect that connection well. If you have a meter measure resistance thru it.
still waiting/looking for a civic EX wiring harness so i can just switch over the entire car, but until then... i did some "diagnosing". checked the spark plugs, and they were all sitting in oil, plug 3 was quite literally halfway drowned in oil. took them out, cleaned up the tubes and whatever.
cranked up the car, let it run a bit.. white smoke poured out initially then eventually was down to just a tiny bit coming out. basically steam. when i revved it, black deposits spewed out. it tremendous numbers. also blue smoke (burning oil). that doesnt bother me, as an engine with 310,000 miles would burn some oil. its the black deposits, which im assuming is carbon, that bothers me.
i put a box behind the tailpipe and revved the engine to 6000 rpms. i let off the accelerator soon as it hit 6000 rpms. went to look at the box, it was completely black. looked like someone threw a water balloon full of flat-black paint at it. :shock:
also when i first hit the gas it hesitates for a split second.
i know i know, its prolly BS electrical crap. but i thought i might as well share.
EDIT: found this awesome article... please take the time to read it lol...
Carbon Build-Up
Carbon is a natural byproduct of the combustion process and is vented through the exhaust system. It is normal for a thin layer of carbon to cover the parts of the engine and exhaust that come into contact with the combustion process or engine exhaust. Since the introduction of unleaded fuel, carbon deposits have been greatly reduced. Normally, carbon does not present a problem.
However, through the introduction of contaminents such as oil or overly rich air/fuel ratios, carbon build-up can become excessive and reduce engine performance and require costly service or repairs.
Driving habits can also impact the amount of carbon build up. Highway driving tends to cause the engine to get sufficiently hot so as to burn away some contaminents that would otherwise become deposits. Unfortunately, short trips tend to promote the build up of carbon deposits. Having said that, in general, there are two main causes of excessive carbon buildup; burned oil and overly rich air/fuel mixtures.
Oil-based carbon build-up occurs when piston rings become worn and oil is able to leak past the rings from the crankcase. Oil can also leak from valves into the combustion chamber. Typically oil-based deposits appear as dark black and have a gummy, tar-like consistency.
Carbon tends to coat any surface that may be exposed to either the combustion process or handle engine exhaust. It is often most evident on fuel injectors, engine valves and combustion chambers. Deposits also form on the throttle body, spark plugs, intake manifold as well as in the catalytic converter and oxygen sensors. If carbon buildup is present in the EGR passages, it is probably the result of oil leaking down the valve stems. An automobile that is burning oil will tend to emit exhaust that has a bluish tint and may be a little heavier than normal.
By contrast, fuel-based carbon build-up occurs when an engine burns an excessively rich air/fuel mixture. Too much fuel will tend to produce a relatively large amount of carbon waste that is not as thick as oil deposits but it is hard, dry and tougher to remove.
Causes of fuel-based deposits often include a computer fault, a bad or leaking fuel injector or other potential reasons that cause and excessive amount of fuel to be burned during the combustion process.
In general, carbon deposits can cause a drastic drop in both fuel economy and performance. Because so many automobiles on the road rely on computers and sensors for optimal engine performance, it is easy to see how carbon deposits can play havoc with modern engines. For example, most automobiles rely on an onboard computer to adjust the air/fuel ratio in accordance to the O2 readings for optimal performance. Because oxygen sensors are exposed to engine exhaust, it is easy to see how susptible they are to contamination from carbon-deposits. Incorrect oxygen sensor readings causes the computer to make performance adjustments based on incorrect data.
Particularly thick deposits also tends to increase engine compression simply because the carbon deposits take up more space inside the combustion chamber. Abnormally high compression may result in spark knock (detonation), particularly when driving under load or accelerating. In more extreme conditions, if carbon deposits are thick enough, the top of the piston may actually come into contact with the carbon-coated cylinder head or valves. When this happens, the sound resembles a hammer noise or like a rod bearing has gone bad.
Carbon build-up can also result in excessive auto emissions. Here's how: An excessively rich fuel mixture or burned oil can create a heavy carbon residue that coats the inside of the catalytic converter. If left unchecked, excessive carbon deposits can make the catalytic converter ineffective at burning residual fuel vapors (hydrocarbons). A sufficiently compromised catalytic converter will need to be replaced. In addition, if your state requires annual auto emissions testing, you may fail simply because your catalytic converter is unable to reduce your vehicle's auto emission
lets see, so by burning the oil i may be causing this build up which would cause poor performance, etc. but oddly this engine performed fine in the car it came from. just becoming rough in mine.
which leads me to Fuel Injectors (keep in mind i had a code 16 CEL). overly rich fuel mixture causes carbon spitting. could this be because of my Walbro fuel pump? faulty injectors? how can i know if they are messed up. and why would they be? (oil..?). today, listening to the injectors/fuel rail there was a weird-ish sound, kinda like an electrical current or something like that..
there are probably like 49085 problems wrong all at the same time. still havent gotten to code 4, crank angle sensor and the random bursts of malfunction along those lines. *sigh*
well, its mainly had big issues here and there since i UN-installed my supercharger and got this replacement engine from bam-bam.
my old engine though did have some issues previous to the supercharger as far back as a year, i would say. it always ran fine, but not 100% completely smooth like it could have. i narrowed down that issue to a prematurely worn dizzy cap, so i got another, which solved the issue but then THAT one wore down too in like a month, so i replaced the distributor and it seemed to run alright, but then i got the supercharger right after lol :roll:
And in installing the supercharger you would have used a non stock fuel pressure regulator right? Or at least one that came with the unit? And when you reinstalled everything to stock, which pressure reg did you install?
evol, could you do me a favor (or anybody with an RT4WD)... take a picture of the vacuum lines around the MAP sensor and intake manifold? i just want to make sure its correct. i used to know where a diagram of the lines was but can't find it. also pictures are worth more to me.
also going to change the fuel pump back to stock, soon as the 10 gallons i have in there are used up
This probably won't help you seeing how I don't use a charcoal canister or a purge solenoid, no emissions where I live. As you can see, one vacuum line from the top of the TB to the MAP sensor. The bigger red line goes to the charcoal canister but I don't have one so you can see its plugged on my TB.
Another thing about vacuums lines on Honda's, if they are the OEM lines then you can tell by the numbers on them where they go. The line I have going from the TB to the MAP says 7 on it but I think its actually a longer line I scavenged from somewhere else instead of the OEM MAP sensor line.
In this vacuum diagram you can see the numbers, there should be numbers that coincide with the diagram printed on the vacuum lines.
hmm, i do not have the purge solenoid control valve on mine (or maybe the dashpot control solenoid valve???)
also i have no 3-way joint A, or B.
here is a picture of mine...
i have the 21 line plugged into the wrong thing. i do not have a dashpot solenoid valve, also my dashpot only has one line going from it. so that doesnt matter.
i had the line going from the purge solenoid valve going into the TB and the MAP line going to the charcoal canister
anyways, its all hooked up correct. and it possibly *seems* better, could be a state of mind, but i just drove a lap around the neighborhood. we shall see in due time
i was listening to the engine idle, and it seems like the injectors are ticking quite loudly. is this normal? its much more pronounced then the valve ticking.
Hi all, this is another "smoke" question. I notice blue smoke and hesitation after going down a steep hill in gear in my '90 2WD with 192K. Does this indicate worn rings, valves, or both? The smoke and hesitation stop after a little bit of normal driving, and it doesn't throw any error codes. It's the original engine, not rebuilt.... yet!
I had this same thing on my 1990 civic RT4wd. was starting hard, and then running really erratically, and then failed me, going down the road. It was just a tiny screw holding the rotor that was missing!
Comments
its like a girl PMSing every so often, then not. so i cant check it really :x
so i was driving around, ya know, nothing special. i go to the bank. stop the car. come back after 3 minutes, crank it up, its all good. start to take off and i stalled it, basically like didnt give enough gas i guess. so i crank it back up, it starts, but instantly the CEL comes on, and it starts sputtering real bad. anyways i drive it back to my parking spot at school, and the ride was rough. if i gave gas it bogged.
so i checked the CEL, and now its the code 4 AND code 16.. injectors.
i am starting to wonder if all these problems may be related to the fact that i have an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump??
back to code 4, i have already replaced all those parts and checked things over so much, and now this fuel injector issue.. fishy.
:x
The reason this occurs to me is that I've had Intake sensor codes repeatedly, and it comes down to water intrusion/corrosion in the plug each time.(I probably wash my engine too much :oops: )
Inspect that connection well. If you have a meter measure resistance thru it.
and it is POURING rain... :shock:
i dont have a meter though. i'll check that plug when the rain stops down pouring.
cranked up the car, let it run a bit.. white smoke poured out initially then eventually was down to just a tiny bit coming out. basically steam. when i revved it, black deposits spewed out. it tremendous numbers. also blue smoke (burning oil). that doesnt bother me, as an engine with 310,000 miles would burn some oil. its the black deposits, which im assuming is carbon, that bothers me.
i put a box behind the tailpipe and revved the engine to 6000 rpms. i let off the accelerator soon as it hit 6000 rpms. went to look at the box, it was completely black. looked like someone threw a water balloon full of flat-black paint at it. :shock:
also when i first hit the gas it hesitates for a split second.
i know i know, its prolly BS electrical crap. but i thought i might as well share.
EDIT: found this awesome article... please take the time to read it lol...
lets see, so by burning the oil i may be causing this build up which would cause poor performance, etc. but oddly this engine performed fine in the car it came from. just becoming rough in mine.
which leads me to Fuel Injectors (keep in mind i had a code 16 CEL). overly rich fuel mixture causes carbon spitting. could this be because of my Walbro fuel pump? faulty injectors? how can i know if they are messed up. and why would they be? (oil..?). today, listening to the injectors/fuel rail there was a weird-ish sound, kinda like an electrical current or something like that..
there are probably like 49085 problems wrong all at the same time. still havent gotten to code 4, crank angle sensor and the random bursts of malfunction along those lines. *sigh*
people please help me, i need answers!!!!
-ECU
-injectors
-fuel rail
-etc
FUEL PUMP is aftermarket. its a Walbro 255cc (i think) unit.
Umm... at this point, if I were you I'd be doing anything it takes to hunt the issue down. How long has this been going on?
my old engine though did have some issues previous to the supercharger as far back as a year, i would say. it always ran fine, but not 100% completely smooth like it could have. i narrowed down that issue to a prematurely worn dizzy cap, so i got another, which solved the issue but then THAT one wore down too in like a month, so i replaced the distributor and it seemed to run alright, but then i got the supercharger right after lol :roll:
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-MAP Sensor
-Fuel Pump
evol, could you do me a favor (or anybody with an RT4WD)... take a picture of the vacuum lines around the MAP sensor and intake manifold? i just want to make sure its correct. i used to know where a diagram of the lines was but can't find it. also pictures are worth more to me.
also going to change the fuel pump back to stock, soon as the 10 gallons i have in there are used up
Another thing about vacuums lines on Honda's, if they are the OEM lines then you can tell by the numbers on them where they go. The line I have going from the TB to the MAP says 7 on it but I think its actually a longer line I scavenged from somewhere else instead of the OEM MAP sensor line.
In this vacuum diagram you can see the numbers, there should be numbers that coincide with the diagram printed on the vacuum lines.
also i have no 3-way joint A, or B.
here is a picture of mine...
i have the 21 line plugged into the wrong thing. i do not have a dashpot solenoid valve, also my dashpot only has one line going from it. so that doesnt matter.
i had the line going from the purge solenoid valve going into the TB and the MAP line going to the charcoal canister
anyways, its all hooked up correct. and it possibly *seems* better, could be a state of mind, but i just drove a lap around the neighborhood. we shall see in due time
*crosses fingers real tight*
thanks so much evol!
i was listening to the engine idle, and it seems like the injectors are ticking quite loudly. is this normal? its much more pronounced then the valve ticking.
Thanks, JB