(EE/EY/EF) Brake Upgrade Discussion

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Comments

  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    My setup:

    DA6 knuckles
    BB1 Prelude VTEC calipers
    2007 MINI rotors (280mm - 11.02")

    The DA6 knuckles work perfectly with the amount I have lowered the car and I do not have excessive camber. Everything bolts together incredibly easily and fits perfectly. The braking power is absolutely awesome.

    Next I will be changing the booster, master cylinder, prop valve and I will use braided brake hoses.
  • I have the chance to get a aem big brake set up. Its off a da. Will oy fit amd work???
  • oddomatikoddomatik New Wagonist
    I have done extensive (OEM) brake upgrades on my CRX both front and rear, and a few things are missing from this sticky. First, make sure to use the proper prop valve, which will send the proper amount of braking force to front vs. rear. Otherwise, you could find yourself in a dangerous/unpredictable braking situation. I took this from CRX community How-to's:

    1725 valve (88-91 CRX with rear drums)
    2040 valve (90-91 CRX Si) - used with 9.5" front brakes matched with rear discs.
    4040 valve (90-93 Integra) - used with 10.3" front brakes matched with rear discs.
    3540 valve (90-91 Civic Ex and some 88-91 Preludes) - used with 10.3" front brakes matched with rear drums.

    Another thing I didn't quite agree with was the notion that brake upgrades are not needed unless you race... In wagons that go fast or even stock wagons on roads like I live on, brake upgrades are a necessity.

    http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=19803

    One thing I hadn't looked into is how the rears are different on RT4WD. I see mention in this thread that there might be some complexity involved there, so do your own research before purchasing anything.

    In all honesty, 10.3" brakes up front under 14" rims and rear disc brakes is plenty to feel comfortable stopping from high speeds, even on a track. I just did rear discs on the CRX and the slightly improved braking wasn't worth the effort unless you race purely at the track and are going for times.

    I'll probably go for 10.3" Civic EX knuckles up front with a 3540 prop and stick with that for my RT4WD. DA knuckles can be used as well, though they're designed for a slightly wider chassis. Lots of people run them with no issues.
  • quartersquarters Council Member
    oddomatik wrote: »
    3540 valve (90-91 Civic Ex and some 88-91 Preludes) - used with 10.3" front brakes matched with rear drums.

    this is what I need, thanks for the info!
  • oddomatikoddomatik New Wagonist
    quarters wrote: »
    this is what I need, thanks for the info!

    RT4WD has bigger drum. While it should not be a safety concern and might be as close as you can get, it should be stated that '88-'89 Accord LXi might be a better match as some research shows they had 239mm rear drums (like RT4WD) and 261mm fronts (10.3" like Integra). Unfortunately I do not have the number stamped on it. The Honda part # is 46210-SE0-A02 if you want to track down that perfect match. I will look for a matching LXi next time at the junkyard. Some initial research at 3geez.com shows that it might be 4040 (found in most integras) and widely available on eBay, though that might have been with the rear discs. Also might be that the small rear discs and larger drums might need approximately the same braking power, resulting in the same prop valve.
  • TremekTremek New Wagonist
    Thanks for all the intel here guys. Doing a 10.3" conversion on my RT4WD, have the EX knuckles/calipers/discs ready, just ordered a new 15/16" master cylinder and a 3540 proportioning valve to get this moving.

    Do I also need to switch to a different power brake booster? Thanks!
  • Tremek wrote: »
    Thanks for all the intel here guys. Doing a 10.3" conversion on my RT4WD, have the EX knuckles/calipers/discs ready, just ordered a new 15/16" master cylinder and a 3540 proportioning valve to get this moving.

    Do I also need to switch to a different power brake booster? Thanks!

    No, you shouldn't have to change the booster.
  • I guess I could add something to this Upgrade page:

    The DC booster and master cylinder (1") can be fitted to the EF chassis. The rear most brake line that comes into the master cylinder needs to be moved to the other side and have the fitting changed. I just bent mine to the correct shape and reused the fitting that came with my junkyard MC.

    29.jpg
  • MLT2WDMLT2WD Band Wagon
    (not directly about upgrades) My stock calipers are leaking from the pistons and I can't find replacement rubber rings.
    1st option: Do the seals off a Civic fit? If so I'll just get a set of those.
    2nd option: Do the Integra / accord calipers + disks bolt on,(witch tend to be easier to find + y not upgrade!) or do I need to do some proper modding?
    ( I need the easiest option, cos I don't have a proper place to work, an i only have the most basic tools)
  • fro08fro08 Band Wagon
    Was wondering if there was a straight forward way to swap some rear disk brakes onto the back of my 1990 Honda civic wagon... And retain the parking brake?
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    No. There is a bracket available in the marketplace but the parking brake function is not ready yet.
  • fro08fro08 Band Wagon
    What if I switched in a complete rear setup of an 90 Integra?
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    No. Do some more reading before asking more questions - this has been answered.
  • rti intracrti intrac Senior Wagonist
    Was running exactly the same setup as Haydz but have gone to mg rotors and a 15/16 master.
    They are 282mm and the right offset for prelude/odyssey calipers. You even can use the stock retaining screws.
    You need to use the caliper brackets stamped 25t. (I had a 23t caliper with the mini rotors and they cleared ok)

    I have read/heard people say the mini rotors warp with really hard braking. Mine were fine but I never took them on the track
    Here is the part number off the box

    18.jpg
    And installed
    19.jpg
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