brake engages late
sayurasem
New Wagonist
Mandalore88 wrote: »This is so true. I used my stock MC on my 96 civic CX with ITR 5-lug brakes. Brakes didn't engage till super low to the floor.
There is also such a thing as running to large of a MC. Putting a 1'' MC on a stock car is gonna suck!
Bringing this up so I don't make new thread, my brakes engages after 1/3 of the pedal is pressed. Basically the first 1/3 of my brake pedal is not engaging. Any help? I just recently changed the booster( old booster was leaking air), new calipers and pads and bleed all for tires. I went to a shop and they did all that.
i feel like the breaks should engage when I immidiately press the brake pedal but instead about an inch or two inch of freeplay.
Comments
I'd jack the car up and have someone spin the wheels and then gently apply the brakes to see when they do actually engage. That would give you a little more idea when it's actually braking to see how far out of adjustment they are.
Is there anyway to measure the master cylinder? Sorry I'm very new to the car world and still learning everyday. I'm done with that shop, is there a way to adjust it my self?
I did several brake testing on the road today and the break does work good, but I just have to stomp on the break all the way in.
is it because of the new calipers? Maybe the caliper's piston need to get lubed or break in? The old caliper piston was leaking (oring around the piston ripped and leak fluid). Or I feel like there is not enough vacuum to help the brake. Ps brake pedal feels normal, not too soft not too hard to press.
That travel is before you actually contact and start moving the master cylinder piston. You should be able to feel the difference when you actually start moving fluid.
I am running the 15/16" master with the push rod adjusted to 0.5mm of a gap and the clevis inside the car adjusted to nearly zero play. I still end up with a bit of take up. I think that is just the nature of having drums.
We will see if things improve as the new brake shoes in the rear bed in and take shape and I continue to chase them with the adjusters.
Uggg brake feel alone would be worth the hassle of getting discs in the rear. I like my brake pedal to be RIGHT there! Making the wagon feel like my EG with the 1" master, nsx calipers and legend GS rotors up front, integra type r setup in the rear, stainless lines, everything adjusted to zero is going to be a tall order.
x2 Any time my Hondas the wagon and previously an 87 Accord) has spongy brakes, it's time to adjust the rear drums. I don't know why, but my Honda's never seem to self adjust.
While driving, try applying the brakes with the ebrake pulled up a few clicks. If the brake pedal feels better, that's your problem.
I'll try this today, if the brake engages better should I be driving with ebrake on few clicks?
The E-brake acts on the bottom of the shoes while the slave cylinder and adjusters act on the top of the shoes. They will wear the shoes differently making the slack worse.
That is a nice tip.
He said I need bigger master cylinder because it would move bigger volume of brake fluid to the brakes. And new booster to help push it.
I have a rev hang when I switch gear is it because the booster? I checked for vacuum leak and can't find any.
Based on what the mechanic is saying though, to me it just sounds like he's giving opinion, not specifically indicating what's wrong with the car. The stock unit isn't going to cause the problems given here. There will be more pedal play in a 7/8 vs a 15/16 before it firms up, but based on what you've described it sounds like something else may be amis.
Back to the booster itself, I don't know that a larger booster is needed to help push it. There are several people who run without the booster entirely so that's just a matter of preference for how much assist you want. I can't recall off the top of my head if going to a 15/16 master cylinder requires a matching booster, I don't think so, but I could be wrong there.
thank you you for the help greenteagod!
For the rev hang/ vacuum, I probably will do a complete hose swap. I know for sure the hose for the pcv valve is kinked and brittle. And maybe it's my throttle cable is jacked up because it's right on top of the engine.
You should be able to lock up the brakes with some degree of control and with both sides locking at the same time. And always the fronts before the rears.
Civic EX of the same gen should have a 15/16" master that is a bolt in affair.
Adjusting the play out of the system is HUGE as well. 1mm of play in the clevis and pushrod works out to 10mm of play at the pedal with the lever ratios.
Sweet thank you! I guess I'll be getting 15/16" master cylinder tomorrow.