How to Remove Headliner? HALP

maxwellsmart1919maxwellsmart1919 Band Wagon
in Bodywork & Cosmetic Modifications
I've looked around quite a bit and Maybe I'm just not looking hard enough but I can't find a proper write up on how to remove the headliner to get to my busted hatch hinges. Anyone care to help?

Comments

  • truckslammertruckslammer Moderator
    Try this Bro: http://www.civicwagon.com/content.php?188-How-to-Remove-Tailgate-and-Replace-Tailgate-Hinges Should be exactly what you are looking for and more. Good luck!
  • maxwellsmart1919maxwellsmart1919 Band Wagon
    Yeah I saw that, the problem is he doesn't explain exactly what to remove and I want to avoid taking things off and possibly ripping something.
    Thankyou
  • ee4wagoonee4wagoon Wagonist
    headliner. remove the OH shit handles (3), sun visors, mirror, both dome lights, the interior trim, and the little tacs in center.
  • klumklum Senior Wagonist
    you gotta disconnect the seat belts to do this someone correct me if im wrong
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    Ok, I keep seeing things like "just pop out the trim", but no details or pics. I have broken enough pieces elsewhere to be gun-shy. Could someone PLEASE post a couple of pics of how to free the trim from the bottom (where it's tucked behind the lower piece) and how to detach at the top without breaking anything? I'm sure it's simple once you know how, but I don't.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    That top trim in the interior is pretty bloody strong, you'd have to be pulling at an odd angle to break it. Start from the bottom. The clips are every 25-30cm. I'm sure someone else will chime in with a pic to help.
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    Ok, I got it. Managed to get the headliner out without completely removing the trim and only minor damage. That thing is like an egg shell! Hoping the fabric will provide some reinforcement. Now I have to figure out how to reattach the support ribs.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I used an industrial adhesive for semi trailers, because I got it from work.

    If I were you, I'd go to your local auto paint and body supply store and just ask what is used to bond metal ribs to skins. I would give preference to a product that cures flexible, over the epoxy 2part adhesive.
    Be sure to clean and etch the metal.

    Mine has held up for several years now.
  • greenteagodgreenteagod Moderator
    I mentioned it in another thread, I think you were on that one too MrWhoopie but I'm a fan of the polyurethane construction adhesive. A.k.a liquid nails. It has a bit of flex to it when cured and is strong as hell. And will likely outlast the car.
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    greenteagod wrote: »
    I mentioned it in another thread, I think you were on that one too MrWhoopie but I'm a fan of the polyurethane construction adhesive. A.k.a liquid nails. It has a bit of flex to it when cured and is strong as hell. And will likely outlast the car.

    That's exactly what I bought. After I realized that a thick layer of the old adhesive was still there, I decided that the metal to metal bonding products probably were not applicable. For future reference, what I got was Loctite PL Premium Construction Adhesive, "3x Stronger Than Ordinary Adhesives" urethane. , Retail UPC 0-7934068666-3. Looking forward to getting this job done.
  • greenteagodgreenteagod Moderator
    Yep, I've used that as well, it dries fairly stiff but still has a bit of give to it. Should be great.
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