Driveshaft Shop interest

So I noticed our basic option is U-Joint replacement. I emailed DSS and asked if they would consider making some sort of replacements for us and he seemed open to the idea. Only catch was they to have one to see what they can do and I have no spares. Anyone think they would be willing to send one to them? I'd even go as far to help on shipping to get something made entirely from such a reputable shop.
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Comments

  • NobiZeroNobiZero New Wagonist
    If I didn't live in the Northeast where the snow is constantly pounding us, I'd volunteer. My driveshaft is in sad shape anyway. If they can hang on til we get some warmer weather, I'll let them borrow mine.
  • How long are you thinking something like this would take?
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    Not sure. I'll email them and ask. And same for me. I live in SD and am consistently getting snow...I would really like to have replacement driveshafts instead dealing with U-Joint replacement..
  • Yeah I'm in the process of replacing my u joints right now. Have em pressed out and ready to put the new ones in. But I'm not opposed to just getting some replacements as long as it's not gonna keep my car off the road forever...if that's the case I'll just finish replacing the u joints and hope I didn't screw anything up, hahaha
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    Yeah, replacing seems easy enough. If I can get a DSS replacement however, I would much prefer that over this fix on a 20+ year old part system. Which leads me to, if you actually have your stuff out, would you mind doing some measuring for me to send to the guy I am talking with at DSS? He sent me the following photo and wanted this info;

    641.jpg

    Hook me up?
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    I think ive got one complete i could probably send if no one else does.
  • I will bring my calipers home and try to get this for ya over the weekend.
    bkmc24 wrote: »
    Yeah, replacing seems easy enough. If I can get a DSS replacement however, I would much prefer that over this fix on a 20+ year old part system. Which leads me to, if you actually have your stuff out, would you mind doing some measuring for me to send to the guy I am talking with at DSS? He sent me the following photo and wanted this info;

    641.jpg

    Hook me up?
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    Sweet. Thanks man. Lmk. And if you want to send your shafts abide lmk and I can have them email you with info on what to do. Would be ultra legit if this could happen.
  • So are we talking like just replacement u-joints or 100% replacement driveshaft?
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    503Wagon wrote: »
    So are we talking like just replacement u-joints or 100% replacement driveshaft?


    My goal is as close to 100% as possible. I don't really want to have to just swap new U-Joints into an old shaft. I want to be able to order new parts entirely and swap them out, then maybe rebuild the old shafts for fun/spares. I also figured everyone else would like you have the luxury as well and more so backed by such a reputable company. Not saying rockford isn't, just personal preference.
  • While you're at it, get info on a one piece driveline like Jaker had before. I want one.
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    Sounds good. Any links to provide for them to reference for help?
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    Anyone have a picture of the driveshaft tunnel with it entirely installed and taken out? DSS wants to know how much larger a shaft we can accommodate for the one-piece design.
  • 503Wagon503Wagon moderator
    93.jpg

    94.jpg

    95.jpg

    thats the best i have.
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    Sweet. Thanks! I sent it to DSS. Hopefully that and one of our members samples can provide enough to get us a one-piece and replacements.

    How did that driveshaft work without the coupler? Did it affect anything poorly or did it work better?
  • If I'm not mistaken, on that particular setup, it was full RWD, with the front axles deleted. I'm really not sure how the car would behave with a solid shaft and 4wd. I've always wondered about this though. Would you get the typical 4wd-screeching-tires when turning sharply? PErsonally, Jaker's RWD was the only one I've seen with a solid driveshaft, and I'd only heard people talk about solid shafts in relation to RWD conversions.
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    Interesting. Well if anyone wants a solid driveshaft, they said they could do it. 3.25inch carbon fiber tube. Just need to get them length and the flange details. Still waiting on normal replacements. Quoted at $1,400 roughly for the solid shaft...
  • bkmc24 wrote: »
    Yeah, replacing seems easy enough. If I can get a DSS replacement however, I would much prefer that over this fix on a 20+ year old part system. Which leads me to, if you actually have your stuff out, would you mind doing some measuring for me to send to the guy I am talking with at DSS? He sent me the following photo and wanted this info;

    Hook me up?

    Here are your dimensions as best I could measure, on a very quick sketch of the part (hard to measure hole centerline to centerline). I would say that it could be +/- ~0.5mm or so.

    When I measured from the outermost edge of each bolt hole, and then subtracted the diameter of the holes (8mm), I was measuring 51.5 and 61.5mm as the centerline distances. But when I just eyeballed the center of each hole, I was getting 51 and 61mm.

    Let me know if ya want any other dimensions...

    118.jpg
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    Sweet. Thanks man. I'll see if they need any other ones. I also have contacted a local driveshaft shop and the guy claims he is able to get me an entire replacement, but I doubt it. Says he will call me back.
  • 503Wagon503Wagon moderator
    $1400 for a one piece.....ouchy.
  • NobiZeroNobiZero New Wagonist
    As long as there aren't lockers or welded differentials involved, I don't see how running full time 4wd would bind anything. The gear ratios in the front and rear diffs are the same so it should be alright. How much would the driveshaft shop charge for a regular steel one piece driveshaft as opposed to the carbon fiber?
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    Idk. I can ask. An issue we already have run into is they don't stock our flange or anything compatible. We will see what they say.
  • Well I suppose, for a single piece driveshaft, we could always re-use the stock flanges and just go through the u-joint replacement process for those 2 joints...but that would mean that the driveshaft side would have to have compatible "flanges" or whatever you would call that...
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    Thats what I just told them. They also said unless we can get a 5 inch tube under there, aluminum is out due to length.
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    AAAAAnd he is speculating about a grand for just normal replacement shafts. He also said that he is not a fan of the replacement joints we use from Rockford as they will have an amount of play he cannot balance out. So, we shall see.
  • Well that blows! Not good to hear that they don't like the Rockford U joints, since I'm about to be putting them in my car! hahaha
  • NobiZeroNobiZero New Wagonist
    Well, poo. I guess there's no other flanges we could use? Nothing with better U-Joints?

    I just got an 05 CR-V in at work, and it got my brain working. It's got an 81.5" 2 piece driveshaft, and the flanges look VERY similar. All we'd have to do is drill and tap for the carrier bearing if it fits, and voila! VC delete. I assume the rubber insulated carrier would help with driveline harshness these things have. The front flange, bolt center to bolt center is 1 7/8" by 2 1/8" and the rear is the same. (sorry, my tape measure is cheap and only has inches printed on it.)
  • NobiZero wrote: »
    Well, poo. I guess there's no other flanges we could use? Nothing with better U-Joints?

    I just got an 05 CR-V in at work, and it got my brain working. It's got an 81.5" 2 piece driveshaft, and the flanges look VERY similar. All we'd have to do is drill and tap for the carrier bearing if it fits, and voila! VC delete. I assume the rubber insulated carrier would help with driveline harshness these things have. The front flange, bolt center to bolt center is 1 7/8" by 2 1/8" and the rear is the same. (sorry, my tape measure is cheap and only has inches printed on it.)

    Those bolt center to bolt center measurements are different from ours, which is about 2.4" by 2"

    :c
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    No joke man. But he said they could build adaptors for it, I am just not crazy about another connection/joint. But, if Abide sends in his entire drive train they may be able to make something cheaper and better.

    I also am talking to a local drivetrain shop and they seem to claim they can find me everything I need, but I am not holding my breath. I'll keep trying!
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    NobiZero wrote: »
    As long as there aren't lockers or welded differentials involved, I don't see how running full time 4wd would bind anything. The gear ratios in the front and rear diffs are the same so it should be alright.

    rear is geared higher and drags until the front spins, this is fundamental in how RT4WD works to my understanding
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