It's a dynojet, so those numbers are at the wheels. Also, it was done in 2wd. (Keep in mind every dyno reads differently, so numbers don't mean a whole lot.) Dyno tuning on a 4wd dyno would place immense strain on your viscous coupler.
@snow, the reason Garrett uses such a large exhaust housing is so the turbo won't choke up on higher boost. Since im running only 13psi, I can get away with going to a smaller housing for faster spool without sacrificing power.
I pulled my motor back out today. Kind of annoying but necessary. Gonna make a run for the honda dealership tomorrow to pick up a new oil pan gasket and crankshaft seal.
I bought an engine hoist so I'm not always borrowing my friend's, lol.
I got the engine out in three hours working by myself. I'm getting pretty damn quick at this lol.
Part of me wants to buy a crx to throw this motor in and do an ls1 swap on the wagon. lol
It isn't possible for suspension components not connected in any way other than their mounting points to affect each other. FYI lol
This is actually 100% incorrect. Once you set rear anything, you need to remeasure and then make front adjustments. Its not always the case, but more often than not setting something like rear toe will require an adjustment in the front This is why 2 wheel alignments are stupid. They don't take into account the rear settings at all.
This is actually 100% incorrect. Once you set rear anything, you need to remeasure and then make front adjustments. Its not always the case, but more often than not setting something like rear toe will require an adjustment in the front This is why 2 wheel alignments are stupid. They don't take into account the rear settings at all.
In the context I am saying it, it is 100% correct, per Hunter and their alignment class as well as general knowledge. The only reason either would affect each other is the force created by adjustment and non-moving plates on an alignment rack as well as being stationary. It is a great rule of thumb to roll a vehicle back and forth after first adjustments given the time is available to all everything to move back. However, with new technology, it is almost unnecessary since racks have moving plates front and rear to accommodate for exactly what you're saying. And also why you align rear to front for potential issues. I used to do it for a living and have been to many classes from Hunter.
Just fixed my valve cover. I ended up just cutting off the threaded part of the two bolts and sealing the gaskets on with some permatex black. I'll eventually helicoil them, but 3 bolts is holding it on just fine and drilling into my head scares me a little. Haha.
Here's a pic I took of it sitting in the garage next to my blazer
Hello wagon world. Not a whole lot been going on with the wagon, it's mostly been sitting around being a garage queen and hardly getting driven at all. Anyways, I finally sprung for a garrett t3/t04e 50 trim with a stage II turbine wheel and a .48ar exhaust housing, trying to broaden up the powerband a little bit. 2000 miles and the ebay turbo is still going strong, however, the koreans aren't that good at doing math, and measuring the inducer and exducer of the compressor wheel, this thing is not a "50 trim" like advertised but a 57 trim, and that coupled with the .63ar exhaust housing and knockoff turbine and compressor wheels equals ridiculously long spool up, which is not very fun on the street. Anyways, the new turbo should wake it up quite a bit in the midrange, and should be here next week. I was really considering going with a gt28rs, but the breaking point for me was that not only was it almost double the cost, but if it ever goes out I may as well throw it in the trash, since GT ball bearing CHRA's aren't rebuildable and are near $700 from garrett. I'm not made of money, so I went with a rebuildable turbo, haha.
And because an update isn't an update without a pic, here's a pretty nice pic I took today with my Samsung Galaxy S5. (I know, i know, phone pics, but bear with me, this thing actually takes some pretty amazing pics for a phone!)
What's up guys, I just threw in some id1000 injectors and a walboro 255lph fuel pump. I'm about to turn the boost up, shooting for 350-400whp. Upgraded to Neptune so I can run a 3 port solenoid to control boost from the ecu.
Here they are sitting in the rail. Need to put on the Inector clips for them on my harness. I just bought a welder so I am going to try to weld myself up a little exhaust out of 2.5" mandrel bent, to replace the crush bent exhaust I had done at a muffler shop
Bottom end-
75.5mm vitaras
FJD Custom Length Rods
Arp rod bolts
Top end:
Competition cams 59300 cam
Comp cams valve springs
Aspiration:
Garrett t3/t04e 50 trim
Pfab log manifold
2.5" custom Intercooler piping
Knockoff greddy type s Bov
Integra ls throttle body
Edelbrock performer x intake mani
Knockoff tial 38 mm wastegate(probably going to replace soon)
2.5" mandrel bent exhaust I am welding up right now
Suspension and Brakes:
Yonaka coil overs
Skunk 2 front camber kit
Full race traction bar (and radiator)
Spc rear camber and toe links
Inovative 80a engine mounts
Polyurethaned rear different mounts
Vipwryann rear diff bushing mod
Wildwood master cylinder and power brake booster delete
I will try to get in some good pics soon. Thanks for the kind words
I'm trying to get this thing retuned on moar boost, so that's not going to happen until everything's mapped out again for the 1000ccs. But, I will make sure to get you guys a video of it going down the 1/4.
Really excited about this next update, a few posts back I said I ordered a new turbo, well they came back and told me that at the exhaust housing I wanted was discontinued from garrett, so I canceled the order. Well I waited a bit, and just now I put in an order for a gt28rs ball bearing unit, and everything I'm going to need plumbing wise. I actually ordered one with a custom t3 .64ar 5 bolt housing, so it can drop almost right into my setup. Also I am redoing my exhaust when that gets here, I have a bunch of 2.5" stainless steel mandrel bends I'm going to weld up
I was really hung up about possibly going with a gt2871r so I could make more power at the track, but I realized whatever I want more at the track I can just make up with nitrous.
I broke down and ordered a real tial 38mm gate today. I don't see that there's anything wrong with my cheapo ebay gate, but it just makes me feel a little better.
Comments
ps. what kind of turbo you have, too lazy to go back and find
@snow, the reason Garrett uses such a large exhaust housing is so the turbo won't choke up on higher boost. Since im running only 13psi, I can get away with going to a smaller housing for faster spool without sacrificing power.
I pulled my motor back out today. Kind of annoying but necessary. Gonna make a run for the honda dealership tomorrow to pick up a new oil pan gasket and crankshaft seal.
I bought an engine hoist so I'm not always borrowing my friend's, lol.
I got the engine out in three hours working by myself. I'm getting pretty damn quick at this lol.
Part of me wants to buy a crx to throw this motor in and do an ls1 swap on the wagon. lol
I'll figure it out and update. Pretty far from the springs but its an open lapping event, all are welcome!
Goodies came in today!
This is actually 100% incorrect. Once you set rear anything, you need to remeasure and then make front adjustments. Its not always the case, but more often than not setting something like rear toe will require an adjustment in the front This is why 2 wheel alignments are stupid. They don't take into account the rear settings at all.
In the context I am saying it, it is 100% correct, per Hunter and their alignment class as well as general knowledge. The only reason either would affect each other is the force created by adjustment and non-moving plates on an alignment rack as well as being stationary. It is a great rule of thumb to roll a vehicle back and forth after first adjustments given the time is available to all everything to move back. However, with new technology, it is almost unnecessary since racks have moving plates front and rear to accommodate for exactly what you're saying. And also why you align rear to front for potential issues. I used to do it for a living and have been to many classes from Hunter.
It makes sense to me that adjusting rear toe could throw off the front alignment. It would effect the geometry of the entire car
I still have to get an m6 x 1.0 helicoil set because I stripped out two of my valve cover studs a long while back.
Just fixed my valve cover. I ended up just cutting off the threaded part of the two bolts and sealing the gaskets on with some permatex black. I'll eventually helicoil them, but 3 bolts is holding it on just fine and drilling into my head scares me a little. Haha.
Here's a pic I took of it sitting in the garage next to my blazer
And because an update isn't an update without a pic, here's a pretty nice pic I took today with my Samsung Galaxy S5. (I know, i know, phone pics, but bear with me, this thing actually takes some pretty amazing pics for a phone!)
An
Here they are sitting in the rail. Need to put on the Inector clips for them on my harness. I just bought a welder so I am going to try to weld myself up a little exhaust out of 2.5" mandrel bent, to replace the crush bent exhaust I had done at a muffler shop
Moar info, moar pics, moar updates!
P.s. I really want to see this wagon in action!
Bottom end-
75.5mm vitaras
FJD Custom Length Rods
Arp rod bolts
Top end:
Competition cams 59300 cam
Comp cams valve springs
Aspiration:
Garrett t3/t04e 50 trim
Pfab log manifold
2.5" custom Intercooler piping
Knockoff greddy type s Bov
Integra ls throttle body
Edelbrock performer x intake mani
Knockoff tial 38 mm wastegate(probably going to replace soon)
2.5" mandrel bent exhaust I am welding up right now
Suspension and Brakes:
Yonaka coil overs
Skunk 2 front camber kit
Full race traction bar (and radiator)
Spc rear camber and toe links
Inovative 80a engine mounts
Polyurethaned rear different mounts
Vipwryann rear diff bushing mod
Wildwood master cylinder and power brake booster delete
I will try to get in some good pics soon. Thanks for the kind words