is there a diagram with all the grounding points?

1991 civic wagon rt.

looking for some damage from an electrical short that happened when the alternator cable shorted out.

i can sense there is still some damage left over from the short even with some replaced parts. i need to isolate the problem further and find out where there might be damaged wires. my first search is the grounds. i wanted to see where there might be issues. is there a diagram of where all the points of grounds are for the cabin wires and possibly the engine bay?


after replacing many parts it has worked much better but not back to the original state. so i know there is some more issues.


replaced already with brand oem parts:
alternator.
fuse box under the hood.
engine cable.
battery.
ecu. now with hondata.

tomorrow im replacing the ignition cable in the steering cluster. i hope that will solve some of power issues im having.

Comments

  • My alt charge wire shorted to the casing and all it did was blew a main fuse. After fixing the short and replacing the main fuse everything should have been fine if it were factory. WHat problems are you still having?
  • 949949 Senior Wagonist
    which main fuse?
    my car just did some sparking. then heated up and melted the power cable on the engine harness. i never needed to replace any fuse. there was arcing of power i assume when it did.

    im pretty intuned with my daily driven wagon. therefore i notice very slight changes. i notice something similar to white noise from the radio when i press the brakes or turn the key to acc. also the tps sensor is sensitive to any power changes. it goes out often. after replacing it, it will run fine for a week of driving, about a few hundred miles, and it will act like it is not calibrated. but i can calibrate it again with my hondara it will be fine again just for a shorter while. then will need to be replaced. the tps seems to get burned internally everytime.
  • double check that little fuse box under the hood- they were common to have ELD's fail- I tested 3 till i found one that was just right for my RT. Also it might be worth trying another ECU, the diodes dry out or leak "random but I spent a good part of a month looking into it"- My 88rt ecu was crap! open it up and the inside looked new but the car ran and drove horrible I just cant explain how bad it really was. I borrowed a pr4 ls ecu it ran great so i bought a 91 si pm6.
    I also put the 88rt ecu in my friends si, it maid his car stall and idle really bad-
    no codes/check engine light.
  • 949 wrote: »
    which main fuse?
    my car just did some sparking. then heated up and melted the power cable on the engine harness. i never needed to replace any fuse. there was arcing of power i assume when it did.

    im pretty intuned with my daily driven wagon. therefore i notice very slight changes. i notice something similar to white noise from the radio when i press the brakes or turn the key to acc. also the tps sensor is sensitive to any power changes. it goes out often. after replacing it, it will run fine for a week of driving, about a few hundred miles, and it will act like it is not calibrated. but i can calibrate it again with my hondara it will be fine again just for a shorter while. then will need to be replaced. the tps seems to get burned internally everytime.

    I don't remember but I belive there are only 2 or 3 main fuses. It was a 60 amp I believe. You definitely should have blown a main fuse when that arc'd. Depending on how badly that charge wire melted/burned, it might have burned the insulation off of your tps wires and now they short? Just testing theroys mang. I know what you mean though about small things being easily noticed with a car you drive every day. Im always trippin on shit, haha. I also feel ya with the tps thing. Mines calibrated and still seems to manage to be a pain in my ass. Its a Honda thing.
  • 949949 Senior Wagonist
    hey thanks guys. i will definitely look in to everything you guys have listed here for sure as my next step after the grounding wires. (its cheaper to fix next)

    well i changed out the ignition wires today.
    well the out come....no real fix there.
    i did notice that the start up was stronger but that was never an issue. oh well. its a 20 year old car so i dont mind replacing that event tho it wasnt broken. wish it was that so i can call it day.

    i think the next cheaper fix or repair is the grounding points. they do look pretty corroded. so tomorrow im going to replace them. but i only can find two in the engine bay.
    do you guys know where all of them might be? in the engine bay as well as the cabin?

    double check that little fuse box under the hood- they were common to have ELD's fail- I tested 3 till i found one that was just right for my RT.

    Also it might be worth trying another ECU, the diodes dry out or leak "random but I spent a good part of a month looking into it"- My 88rt ecu was crap! open it up and the inside looked new but the car ran and drove horrible I just cant explain how bad it really was. I borrowed a pr4 ls ecu it ran great so i bought a 91 si pm6.

    I also put the 88rt ecu in my friends si, it maid his car stall and idle really bad-
    no codes/check engine light.

    ELD: i agree with you on the ELD and that was the first thing i swapped out. i was able to swap it with another used one. it helped a little but nothing really nocticable.

    i now have a p28 hondata ecu. i converted to obd1. to see if the issue would go away but still no resolution even with an obd1 swap. but i do follow you. it may look good but it might still be bad. im not sure how soon i can try another one out because they are very expensive for a new ecu with hondata S300/turbo chipped.

    CEL: no cel here either.




    Swap'd-D wrote: »
    I don't remember but I belive there are only 2 or 3 main fuses. It was a 60 amp I believe. You definitely should have blown a main fuse when that arc'd. Depending on how badly that charge wire melted/burned, it might have burned the insulation off of your tps wires and now they short? Just testing theroys mang. I know what you mean though about small things being easily noticed with a car you drive every day. Im always trippin on shit, haha. I also feel ya with the tps thing. Mines calibrated and still seems to manage to be a pain in my ass. Its a Honda thing.

    fuses: i dont recall if it was blown or not. all i know is i was able to drive home after seeing some smoke under the hood while driving. the wire connecting the alternator to the batt was melting. since i didnt want to worry i bought a brand new engine harness from honda, its all brand new now. that would also include the tps wire. its all attached and new as well.

    can you point me towards the right direction with where all the fuses i need to check would be located at on the car?

    is there a relay connected to any of this?

    thanks!


    well the main issue right now, which is getting worse, is the TPS sensor. it just seems to just be damaged on the earlier part of the coil (about 2%-15% of the TPS rotation). the car just stuters till i can press pass that area with the gas pedal. there is definitly a short or something. i have replaced the tps sensors many times already and now i just want to fix the issue instead of replacing another one just to run for a few hundred miles again.
  • 949949 Senior Wagonist
    shoot someone just bought the one i was gonna get.
  • 949949 Senior Wagonist
    i just did the upgrade/replacement on the grounds in the engine bay. i used 0 awg gauge ground wire. the stock oem ones were shot and corroded. i did notice a small difference. the tps blip was reduced and happen a lot less times. i wont know for sure till i drive it a bit longer. this confirms that its more electrical than hardware alone. i thought the blip would constantly happen at around 3k rpm but after this it was smooth at times. so that means that the tps is not physically damaged as i thought before. now i need to also look for a short somewhere as well.
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