Everything you need for Z6 swap into RT4WD Wagon

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  • AbideAbide Council Member
    man, this has been far less fun than i imagined took a whole day of fighting ball joints and breaking stuff but the motor is finally out and my god is that trans huge. and now i cant get the crank pulley off my zc with a fairly large 1/2" impact. not really sure where to go from where. about to unbolt the trans and get a giant pipe on it i guess.

    the z6 ended up having the keyway almost torn out of it and my crank pulley has a decent chip in it too. I'm a little scared of it coming out of time or having some serious vibrations, but the motor is already mine and the nearly dead zc is already out. still have to swap all the rt parts to the z6.


    Edit: everything is off but the pulley that was on the zc when i got it isnt even CLOSE to fitting on the z6 its not snug at all. the bolt is completely different threads and when i use the z6 bolt it's to long to even put pressure on the a6/zc pulley. Anyone have any ideas?
  • I think the ZC pulley may be different than the A6 pulley. Most people I've talked to have said the A6 pulley fits fine on the Z6.

    Someone told me once that some of the JDM d-series cranks have a smaller end where the pulley slides on, Is your Z6 a JDM motor? Where did you purchase it from?
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    my engine when i bought it was a zc actually. my friends d15b pulleys fit fine except the power steering was a 3 rib. its looking like it might be driveable tomorrow. ive had some other issues but they were balljoint related and not anything pertaining to the zc. we'll see what crops up tomorrow evening after work.
  • Just added a little diagram I made of the vacuum hoses. Might help to visualize where things go.
  • Thanks for the pic of the vacuum hoses, very timely as I have just got a z6 into my 88 rt and couldn't remember where they went. Just got the wiring to finish. Making my own OBD0 to OBD1 adapter harness but having difficulty with what goes to where in the engine bay with respect to the wiring. I am using the d16z6 harness connected to the engine but am using the d16a6 harness connected to the vehicle. Any suggestions about where to look for answers?
    Thanks
    Chuck
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    I dont remember anything being different but the dizzy, radiator fan switch, vtec switches, and extending the IAT sensor cords (but if youre using a z6 engine harness i dont think you have anything to worry about.

    I consier my swap a half success, just a bad crank on the new motor. so the whole pulley issue killed it for me. Since i dont wanna pull it again, swap cranks and keep going that route i'm just doing a vitara build on my zc bottom with a z6 head with y7 rockers :confused: we'll see how it goes
  • AlaskaB16AlaskaB16 New Wagonist
    You guys probably already know this, but a P05 or P06 can be modified into a P28/30/72 pretty easily. I mention this because often times the p28 is tough to find or the price is sky high while a 20 min or less solder job on a $30 ECU will do everything a p28 will. I've done a few myself. Chipped with all sorts of fuel maps for various set ups.

    Funny though. I ditched my z6 a long time ago for a B16 that got a taste of boost. Now here I am trying to learn about the motor I couldn't have given any less thought about all those years ago.... Ah well. Great write up!
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    not to mention an auto p28 that gets looked over first thing is just one removed resistor and one resistor replaced with a jumper. I actually chipped 4 tonight. 1 p06 and 2 auto p28s and one manual p28
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Sticky'd until quicklinks return...
  • Ok guys I am back on my z6 swap trying to sort out what is going wrong.
    I had a code 10 but fixed that.
    At moment I do not have any codes and the motor will rev to 3k then bogg back down to 1k before I can give it gas again.
    If I rev it past 3k it will do the same thing start to bogg back down before I can give it gas again.

    Also thought it might be the TPS sensor.
    When I unplug the TPS sensor no code comes on!? Suppose to throw a code right??
    If it is not making good contact for some reason I assume this could be the culprit also??

    Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    picked up a new crank for mine today to replace the stripped out one. guess it's time to pull it back out again! planning a totally different build but i may throw the z6 in there for the time being if i can get the crank swapped in a reasonable amount of time.
  • Forgive me if I over looked this.

    You can swap the cooling system outlets on the head from the A6 to the Z6 and be able to use the stock upper radiator hose.

    This will also help with proper routing of the A/C lines. (lol, who keeps A/C?)
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    LowFlyin' wrote: »
    This will also help with proper routing of the A/C lines. (lol, who keeps A/C?)


    Lol i did! We'll see if it stays on the next go round with motor #2
  • My engine started missing on one cylinder at idle. So, I had a 1991 CRX si engine D16a6 swapped into my 1990 Real Time All Wheel Drive wagon. The mileage has dropped from 27mpg to about 17mpg. I imagine it is something with the fuel injection, or the computer unit, or the ignition timing. The car idles very high when cold – about 1700rpm. Could not get the right pulley for power steering so do not have power steering. Any ideas on improving the mpg appreciated.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    The CRX Si d16a6 is identical to your original engine. You should have no problems with power steering.

    As for mileage, sounds like you're running rich for some reason. Any codes? Check o2 sensor.
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    almost time for round 2, a whole year later. I'm excited. but not about having to drill the block this time.
  • Ok so here's a quick question, I haven't found any sort of information yet but have searched. I had my swap done in here in Denver a couple months ago and took the wagon to the mountains to see how she handles. The first climb up hill it was holding fine at 70 in 4th gear but then started to die and dropped to 60 so I downshifted to 3rd and gained speed back but while pulling in 3rd it was in vtec for a bit and the CEI came on. I took it to the shop that did the swap and they said because of the rt4wd oil pan and because I was going up hill the oil pickup couldn't get the oil it needed and the CEI was because vtec wasn't getting enough oil. So they blame the oil pan and said there is nothing that can be done. When I drive in the city I can pull through all gears full RPM and no CEI. Has anyone else had this problem with going up hills in a rt4wd d16z6 swap? or does this sound like BS from the shop?

    Thank you
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Bs. Bsbsbsbsbs.
  • haha thats what I thought. Its so weird that it only does it pulling up hill if its in vtec for a while. I had an engine mount bolt break off today as well so its sitting at their shop waiting. do you think they used the z6 oil pickup?
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Sorry, i only said BS so many times because once wasn''t enough characters.

    If the z6 pickup was the issue, it would be against the floor of the sump on level ground, too. Maybe the knock sensor is picking up some noise on the pulls uphill? Timing set right? Just brainstorming on the things that enable VTEC...
  • I was thinking knock sensor too because one of the motor mount bolts on the driver side was missing and I believe it was vibrating because two days later after going to the mountains the other motor mount bolt sheared off. thank you for helping toss around ideas.
  • actually, correct me if I'm wrong but the d16z6 does not come with a knock sensor, correct?
  • actually, correct me if I'm wrong but the d16z6 does not come with a knock sensor, correct?

    Mine doesn't have one.
  • So I had both bolts replaced for the engine mount and went on another drive in the mountains today, thinking the vibrations set the light off before. No luck. It seems if the car it's under heavy load and pulling in third gear the check engine light will kick on at 5200rpm. If I cycle the key off and on the light goes away till the next hill and I need to pull in third. I don't know what to do. I think I'm just gonna take it back to the shop that did the swap but I wanna go in with as much knowledge as possible. Any ideas would be useful. Thanks in advance.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    So, what is the code that sets when the light comes on?
  • Does the cei need to be on to check or does it store the code? If I turn the car off the light no longer is on. I've never pulled codes on an obd1 before but I know I could figure it out.
  • I think they said it was an oil pressure vtec code that's why they started to blame the oil pick-up and said there wasn't anything they could do about it. I don't really accept that as an answer.
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    revisited this yet again this weekend
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSCc4DFku6A

    seems to be an okay showing of a swap. May help someone somehow.
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