Today I disassembled a RT4wd viscous coupler that was no good not working at all. it came out of my blue wagon!! I will post some detailed pic's for you guys very shortly.....
I may have a rebuild solution coming the this thing............
Viscous coupling is a one mechanical device, Viscous coupling Device transfers torque and rotation by the medium of a viscous fluid. Viscous Coupler device essentially differs from fluid couplings such as torque converters.
The big question here should be this:
Are there spider/differential gears "between" the FWD portion of the transmission and the transfer-case portion? If there are, then creating a one-piece driveshaft or somehow locking the VC together will not cause a failure when driving on pavement. The spider gears will allow the rear wheels to turn at different speeds than the front. This is how most normal 4x4s work that have "full-time 4wd". It will likely decrease MPG, however.
are you able to make virtually a viscous coupler delete?
OK, sooo, question; when looking at a b series swap you cant keep the rt rear dif due to a difference in ratio, creating the rear wheels to spin faster than they would with a crv dif.
My question is what if you put a crv dif (I know that it is weaker then the rt dif but for the sake of arguement) in with the stock rt trans, transfer and vc.... this would in theory create a vc preload correct?
i also dont think that welding the VC would be a good idea either...the beauty of the system is the slip. unless your going to go rock crawling, i cant see the need for full time (or even part time) locked 4wd. my 04 Pilot can lock the rear diff and i cannot notice the difference between locked and unlocked on slippery surfaces. i have YET to run into a situation where i the VTM4 was failing and i needed to lock the rear. (i must say though...the pilot is kind of apples to oranges, because of its ability to transfer 100% tq to 1 wheel....thats where an open diff car would suffer.....BUT if you locked the VC, the rear diff is still open...so thats a moot point really....but for conversation sake i threw that in lol)
i know this is a wagon forum....but on my CRV this is what i plan to do
b20 5spd trans, custom 2 piece driveline with wagon VC, welded TCD unit (dual pump clutch unit on front of the rear diff...replacement of the VC) and stock crv rear end with welded diff (or phantom slip if welded diff proves to be too much stress on a DD...in "theory" it should be fine to DD because the rear is only in use when front wheels slip....normal driving, or parking, or slow speed turning, shouldnt be enough wheel speed difference to engage the rear wheels)
best of everything IMO (outside of a true LSD in the rear....i have yet to find someone thats retro-fitted an LSD into a crv rear end though) b-series motor/trans, instant, and FULL locking VC (instead of clutchs that never fully lock in the TCD unit) and a rear end that puts power to both wheels equally, ONLY when engaged.
so for a
d-series RT4WD...straight up wagon stuff is best.
b-series RT4WD...b20 trans/transfer, VC, welded TCD, stock or welded diff. (crv diff would be ideal, wagon diff would require tire offsets)
just my .02!
You would still cause considerable stress on a welded rear diff in 2wd mode. The rear diff allows the rear tires to turn at differing speeds to each other, even when coasting, and welding will cancel that. One or the other of the tires will drag or chirp in a turn as they try to match speeds. It would probably be worse than if there was power applied to them as that would at least allow the inside tire to break traction more easily.
You can find LSDs for the Wagons rear diff (would love to see one built for the front, too).
Yes the car hates going around corners...slowly.. but at speed it is amazing how well mannered it is.
However, what I was trying to understand is in the case of the automatic where the front final drive for the front wheels is 4.333... the rear end is still is at 4.4, this means the front and rear differential ratios don't have to be the same right and it can still work right?
DIY rebuilding your VC
Mine would engage and disengage pretty much seamlessly depending on front wheel spin and it didn't matter which front wheel was spinning, I could detect an immeadiate change in handling when the VC "locked up", especially in deep snow.
Unfortunately I own three of the 1988 RT's and all of them have bad VC's and I haven't found any suggestions on how to repair, other than it is a non repairable item and a case of "too bad, so sad" from Honda.