Here are a few pics of the spoiler mounted as she sits in the garage on jack stands.
Like I stated before, there are still some blemishes to fix, but it looks fine from the 20ft range and will do for now.
And hatch opens fully without hitting! :encouragement:
Wiring Update. Finished running wires, soldering and heat shrinking on the cabin/ECU side. Added a factory harness clip that will be located on the passenger side shock tower just under existing harness clip for easy disconnect. Got OBD1 dizzy plugs swapped over and stripped OBD1 injectors from the donor harness. Also got wagon harness layed out on new motor and will hopefully get injectors wired up and lengthen the other various sensor wires tonight in order to complete the DPFI => MPFI update. VTEC necessary wires will follow.
Finished all of my connections via plugs and solder! Will pull harness off of new motor and cosmetically fix all of the forks and splits and tidy up the harness as a whole. Compiled a few notes based on my experience to add to a summarized version of the various Swap articles that are already out there. I plan to post a simplified, yet detailed, summary of the swap when its completed. Hopefully it fires up and runs like it is supposed to without any codes...Stay Tuned....
Dont hate on my daughter's "just right height" dora chair! Ha
Coming down to the wire. Trying to get it all up and running by IA this weekend, but still waiting on a few items...with the most important being my Innovative cable to hydro bracket. *fingers crossed*
..... even better if she was helping so you can teach her from the real true basics ....
Oh she "helps" a lot. Still have to keep her from hammering and literally wrenching on the side of the wagon. At least she is interested and knows what a wrench and a honda is. :encouragement:
GSR SWAP UPDATE
After a week of dedicated time and pulling an all nighter last fri and dedicating most of Sat trying to get the swap complete, up and running with the new powerplant and driveable in order to drive to IA. Very dissapointed that I didnt make the deadline and disgusted and bummed to the point that I didnt make the event at all.
Got swap completed and bolted up early Sat morning. Even used a loaner B-series cable tranny from Bam because my hydro conversion kit was on back order. The tranny as is, in retrospect, would have kept me from the IA deadline anyway because I didnt have the stock Bseries clutch cable bracket and my homemade one would not have worked.
Anyway, the motor is in, hooked up, and ran long enough to realize I had a fuel leak. Only had one washer on the banjo fitting at the fuel rail. You actually need one on BOTH sides..duh
With fuel leak fixed went to crank up the motor again, and noticed the fuel pump not priming when I turned the ignition key on and not coming on when trying to crank! WTF!?:mad:
After some research and consulting my local, one-armed-wagon-expert, the diagnostic process would follow starting with the main relay, then to the ignition switch for starters.
Located this handy bit of info for diagnosing the main relay.
First tried the resolder all of the solder joints. Wether they were "dry" like the photo shows or not, I soldered all of the joints
When that didnt seem to fix the non-priming issue, went thru this step by step procedure for 88-91 Civics:
MAIN RELAY TEST
1. Remove the Main relay.
2. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #4 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #5 terminal and the #7 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, go to step 3.
b. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #5 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #2 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #1 terminal and the #3 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, go to step 4.
b.If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #3 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #5 terminal and the #7 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
b. If the fuel pump still does not work, go to harness test.
c. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
MAIN RELAY HARNESS TEST
1. Keep the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Disconnect the main relay electrical connector.
3. Check for continuity between the BLACK wire (pin 2) in the connector and body ground.
4. Attach the positive probe of the voltmeter to the YELLOW/WHITE wire (pin 1) and the negative probe to the BLACK wire (pin 2).
a. Battery voltage should be available.
b. If there is no voltage, check the wiring between the battery and the main relay as well as the ECU fuse (15A) in the main fuse box.
5. Attach the positive probe of the voltmeter to the BLACK/YELLOW wire (pin 5) and the negative probe to the BLACK wire (pin 2).
6. Turn the ignition switch ON.
a. Battery voltage should be available.
b. If there is no voltage available, check #14 fuse and the wiring from the ignition switch to the fuse box, and the wiring from the fuse box to the main relay.
7. Attach the positive probe of the voltmeter to the BLUE/WHITE wire (pin 4) and the negative probe to the BLACK wire (pin 2).
8. Turn the ignition switch to the START position.
a. Approximately 10 volts should be available.
b. If there is no voltage check the #2 (10A) fuse and the wiring between the ignition switch and the fuse box, and from the fuse box to the main relay.
9. Connect a jumper wire between the BLACK/YELLOW wire (pin 5) and the YELLOW/BLACK wire (pin 7).
10. Turn the ignition switch ON.
a. The fuel pump should turn on
b. If the fuel pump does not work, check the wiring between the main relay and the fuel pump, and the wiring from the fuel pump to the ground (BLACK wire).
After running through all the steps above, everything seemed to check out with continuety and adequate voltage. Had to bring in the reinforcements.....
The "Legendary" Bam and his father showed up today to help me diagnose the electrical issues I was having and help me solve the mystery.
After running through all the same test above, we took the working main relay from Fools Gold with similar results...
Next step was to try and swap out the under dash fuse panel. After going through a few hours of the trial and error of going between my existing panel, goldie's and a spare from the donor box, we ended up putting my original fuse box back in. Somehow between the many swaps, Bam put the magical touch on it and it started working. Gotta love 25+ year old electrical components!
With that mystery solved (for now) I will be bleeding the brake system and attempting to get the bseries cable bracket bolted up so I can hit the pavement for a test run!
Thanks again to Bam and his father for coming over and helping out! :encouragement:
shitty buzz dude ! but the motor looks right at home there
my Teg keeps having this no priming fuel pump issue and its the main relay sticking, probably just from old age, but i have another used one im going to stick in when i get minute
you are definatly ahead with this swap unlike me, but luckily the previous owner of the wagon is going to lend me a hand to do the motor swap as he used to have a gsr in there so it makes it easier on my part
Man very nice my gsr is sitting in a shop right now till i can find the time to throw it in i love your car man some day i hope to have as clean of a wagon as u
Thanks man. Trying to get her up and rollin in order to tell if I got the bugs worked out of the motor swap. Will do a write up when I have things confirmed. Good luck with yours!
While I was waiting on getting a b-series cable bracket, I decided to attempt to refinish the Wilwood calipers.
I picked up duplicolor's Caliper kit to to use to put on the finishing touches. Going with Black.
Before painting with the ceramic caliper paint, I taped off all of the pistons and bleed valves and put them in the media blaster.
Top pic Left is how calipers arrived....High temp gunmetal
Top pic Right is one right out of the media blaster, blown out and wiped down.
Middle pic is both calipers blasted and prepped ready for paint
Bottom pic is both coated with the duplicolor black ceramic caliper paint.
And here is the finished calipers with a touch of cream paint waiting to be mounted.
Will mount and bleed system *hopefully* this weekend.
Definitely go with the cream inserts.. Wagons looking great so far. i will follow your build close cause i like where you r going with it.
HAHAHAHA I missed 10 pages of build when i posted that reply
Thanks for all the compliments just wish she ran smooth and sexy. I've kinda hit a few Frustrating setbacks. Haven't been spending too much attention to her lately, As the problems I keep running into are inconsistent but frequent. Don't think they're directly related to the wiring from the swap because I ran it 3 to 4 times without any issues. Initially seem to be main relay, ignition switch or fuse box related, but Bam came over and we seem to relieve that issue. Now there is another random issue that has come up. Still trying to find out if its a spark or fuel related but it. Will crank and idle fine, then will fall on its face after its warmed up and about 2500 rpm and will not run or idle smoothly. Running through the minimal diagnostic things that I know to do to start ruling things out. Just overall frustrating as F*&k!
Yeah I seem to be have the same issue I can get about 5 miles from home and the car idles like shit. Once the car comes up to temp though drives and idles perfect.
All I did was do a tune up with Hoss. check gaps in plugs and check valve clearances. Oh and change out catalyic converter.
I'm too the point of swapping dizzy out to see if that fixes mine.
Now there is another random issue that has come up. Still trying to find out if its a spark or fuel related but it. Will crank and idle fine, then will fall on its face after its warmed up and about 2500 rpm and will not run or idle smoothly. Running through the minimal diagnostic things that I know to do to start ruling things out. Just overall frustrating as F*&k!
FINALLY!!!!!!!
Long story short....Thought this was a distributor problem based on my symptoms. Fortunately have a GSR swap in my EG that I just took dizzy from it and put it on wagon. Still had same symptoms. Wagon dizzy on EG ran fine, so NOT distributor. Started going through dizzy connections in wiring harness and discovered the ground on the thermostat housing was not tight. :dejection: Tightened and then VIOLA!:victorious:
I hate it when its something stupid like that, but glad that is all it was. My sanity has returned. Will be doing a basic check of valves and rechecking timing and brakes seemed to be rubbing a bit. Hope they are just seating in a bit and getting rid of minor rust build up. I still will take a look at them and make sure Ive got things on correctly.
After that, on to some more planned wagon-love customization. STAY TUNED!
Comments
Like I stated before, there are still some blemishes to fix, but it looks fine from the 20ft range and will do for now.
And hatch opens fully without hitting! :encouragement:
Now back to wiring....:disturbed:
Soldering is fun!
My Work Station over the past week:
:encouragement:
Coming down to the wire. Trying to get it all up and running by IA this weekend, but still waiting on a few items...with the most important being my Innovative cable to hydro bracket. *fingers crossed*
im willing to help ..
and the chair was a cool touch to the job @ hand ..... even better if she was helping so you can teach her from the real true basics ....
Oh she "helps" a lot. Still have to keep her from hammering and literally wrenching on the side of the wagon. At least she is interested and knows what a wrench and a honda is. :encouragement:
My son is more of a ragging theory, he is the one saying Dad when is gonna be done.
My daughter is the one saying what do you need me to do.
After a week of dedicated time and pulling an all nighter last fri and dedicating most of Sat trying to get the swap complete, up and running with the new powerplant and driveable in order to drive to IA. Very dissapointed that I didnt make the deadline and disgusted and bummed to the point that I didnt make the event at all.
Got swap completed and bolted up early Sat morning. Even used a loaner B-series cable tranny from Bam because my hydro conversion kit was on back order. The tranny as is, in retrospect, would have kept me from the IA deadline anyway because I didnt have the stock Bseries clutch cable bracket and my homemade one would not have worked.
Anyway, the motor is in, hooked up, and ran long enough to realize I had a fuel leak. Only had one washer on the banjo fitting at the fuel rail. You actually need one on BOTH sides..duh
With fuel leak fixed went to crank up the motor again, and noticed the fuel pump not priming when I turned the ignition key on and not coming on when trying to crank! WTF!?:mad:
After some research and consulting my local, one-armed-wagon-expert, the diagnostic process would follow starting with the main relay, then to the ignition switch for starters.
Located this handy bit of info for diagnosing the main relay.
First tried the resolder all of the solder joints. Wether they were "dry" like the photo shows or not, I soldered all of the joints
When that didnt seem to fix the non-priming issue, went thru this step by step procedure for 88-91 Civics:
MAIN RELAY TEST
1. Remove the Main relay.
2. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #4 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #5 terminal and the #7 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, go to step 3.
b. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #5 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #2 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #1 terminal and the #3 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, go to step 4.
b.If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #3 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #5 terminal and the #7 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
b. If the fuel pump still does not work, go to harness test.
c. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
MAIN RELAY HARNESS TEST
1. Keep the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Disconnect the main relay electrical connector.
3. Check for continuity between the BLACK wire (pin 2) in the connector and body ground.
4. Attach the positive probe of the voltmeter to the YELLOW/WHITE wire (pin 1) and the negative probe to the BLACK wire (pin 2).
a. Battery voltage should be available.
b. If there is no voltage, check the wiring between the battery and the main relay as well as the ECU fuse (15A) in the main fuse box.
5. Attach the positive probe of the voltmeter to the BLACK/YELLOW wire (pin 5) and the negative probe to the BLACK wire (pin 2).
6. Turn the ignition switch ON.
a. Battery voltage should be available.
b. If there is no voltage available, check #14 fuse and the wiring from the ignition switch to the fuse box, and the wiring from the fuse box to the main relay.
7. Attach the positive probe of the voltmeter to the BLUE/WHITE wire (pin 4) and the negative probe to the BLACK wire (pin 2).
8. Turn the ignition switch to the START position.
a. Approximately 10 volts should be available.
b. If there is no voltage check the #2 (10A) fuse and the wiring between the ignition switch and the fuse box, and from the fuse box to the main relay.
9. Connect a jumper wire between the BLACK/YELLOW wire (pin 5) and the YELLOW/BLACK wire (pin 7).
10. Turn the ignition switch ON.
a. The fuel pump should turn on
b. If the fuel pump does not work, check the wiring between the main relay and the fuel pump, and the wiring from the fuel pump to the ground (BLACK wire).
After running through all the steps above, everything seemed to check out with continuety and adequate voltage. Had to bring in the reinforcements.....
The "Legendary" Bam and his father showed up today to help me diagnose the electrical issues I was having and help me solve the mystery.
After running through all the same test above, we took the working main relay from Fools Gold with similar results...
Next step was to try and swap out the under dash fuse panel. After going through a few hours of the trial and error of going between my existing panel, goldie's and a spare from the donor box, we ended up putting my original fuse box back in. Somehow between the many swaps, Bam put the magical touch on it and it started working. Gotta love 25+ year old electrical components!
With that mystery solved (for now) I will be bleeding the brake system and attempting to get the bseries cable bracket bolted up so I can hit the pavement for a test run!
Thanks again to Bam and his father for coming over and helping out! :encouragement:
Always have a back up for just in case kind of thing in the glove box.
I've towed a car home from work before cause of this issue and it fires up first time off the dolly.
my Teg keeps having this no priming fuel pump issue and its the main relay sticking, probably just from old age, but i have another used one im going to stick in when i get minute
you are definatly ahead with this swap unlike me, but luckily the previous owner of the wagon is going to lend me a hand to do the motor swap as he used to have a gsr in there
While I was waiting on getting a b-series cable bracket, I decided to attempt to refinish the Wilwood calipers.
I picked up duplicolor's Caliper kit to to use to put on the finishing touches. Going with Black.
Before painting with the ceramic caliper paint, I taped off all of the pistons and bleed valves and put them in the media blaster.
Top pic Left is how calipers arrived....High temp gunmetal
Top pic Right is one right out of the media blaster, blown out and wiped down.
Middle pic is both calipers blasted and prepped ready for paint
Bottom pic is both coated with the duplicolor black ceramic caliper paint.
And here is the finished calipers with a touch of cream paint waiting to be mounted.
Will mount and bleed system *hopefully* this weekend.
HAHAHAHA I missed 10 pages of build when i posted that reply
it lives again!
Finally was able to get her out off of jackstands and under power from the newly swapped powerplant!
Mounted up! Had to use a 1/4" spacer to ensure full clearance.
All I did was do a tune up with Hoss. check gaps in plugs and check valve clearances. Oh and change out catalyic converter.
I'm too the point of swapping dizzy out to see if that fixes mine.
FINALLY!!!!!!!
Long story short....Thought this was a distributor problem based on my symptoms. Fortunately have a GSR swap in my EG that I just took dizzy from it and put it on wagon. Still had same symptoms. Wagon dizzy on EG ran fine, so NOT distributor. Started going through dizzy connections in wiring harness and discovered the ground on the thermostat housing was not tight. :dejection: Tightened and then VIOLA!:victorious:
I hate it when its something stupid like that, but glad that is all it was. My sanity has returned. Will be doing a basic check of valves and rechecking timing and brakes seemed to be rubbing a bit. Hope they are just seating in a bit and getting rid of minor rust build up. I still will take a look at them and make sure Ive got things on correctly.
After that, on to some more planned wagon-love customization. STAY TUNED!