hey there fellas. new updates, picked up a oem roof rack, well at least i think its oem?, and installed a front lip. the swap is coming along. hopefully in a week or two it well be sitting in its new home. hahaha. well that is it for now, and pics well be coming soon. the weather sucks here, so dont want to wash her till it is good out here.
finally got off my lazy ass and started cleaning and tuning up the LS motor. hopefully the motor will be in this weekend. fingers crossed X"X. hahaha. well definately have pics when it is all said and done. wish me luck fellas..
dang no luv?! hahaha. any who. started the swap. dropped the old motor, and bam the wind picks up and gets the dirt everywher. sucks balls. but atleast i got to modify the harness and make it more stealth. well "TRY" and get pics, no promises. funking wind sucks here.
o and i might just sell the roof rack and also pulled and aftermarket cruise control if any body wants it. roof rack is a maybe but the cruise control is for sale.
hahaha. yup, hopefully can get pics up tomarrow evening, MAYBE!! jajaj. will have pics of the swap plus the exhaust i constructed for it, plus its revision. hahaha.
welp ls motor is in but getting a code 4, dont know what that means. sucks balls. took me two and a half days putting in the motor thru the bottom. shit was hard. sucks having no help. but i made it, just need to fix this damn code for problem and rev past 3500 rpms. any help or advise fellas?
damn it, got the new distributor off of distributer king and now it wont even fire. anybody else have this problem? gonna check for spark later on today when it cools off.
code 4 = crank angle sensor, located in the distributor. your new dizzy may be faulty, i had to go through FIVE different ones from Advance auto before i got one that worked. and even now it didnt function fully... i ended up just getting a used OEM one from a member on here.
ok got it to work. they pinned the two white wires wrong. repinned and she started but still getting a code 4 and cant rev past 3400. gonna recheck the rechecking of the wires again. the dizzy has a life time warranty so, if i still cant get it by sunday, i will send it back. damn it, should have just stayed dpfi, atleast it ran then.
DAMN IT!!!! why us wagodizzle, hahaha. any body want to buy a wagon with a ls b-swap?! hahaha. im about to just give up.
checked the ecu pin outs again, looks good. only thing i can think of is the distributor. any one have any ideas?
this is not my first dpfi to mpfi conversion. did it on a crx before and it ran good, despite spun bearings in that ls. damn it this sucks balls.
o yeah can somebody send me detailed pics of the wiring on the distributor, where the plugs meet each other. dont know mine are hooked up right, that is the only thing i can think of. maybe the wiring on my old distributor was off, and the new one was correct?!.
somebody, as in someone with a good running obd0 b18a1 swap. im pretty sure it is wired correct. other wise it would not even run. dont kno why im getting a code 4 still. i was freakin excited when the new dizzy came in. installed it, and BAM, motor wouldnt fire. put the old one back in and she started right up. but still with a code 4. and compared wiring to the new dizzy. noticed the two white wires were in different pin outs. switched them and now the new dizzy starts the car. still gettin the code 4 and not being able to rev past 3400. DDDAAAAAMMMMMNNNNNN IIITTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Check the 2 wires you ran for CKP, should be 2 blue wires on the distributor? I think from C1 and C2 on the ECU but don't quote me on that. Try reversing them, I had that problem with efguy's ZC. I have a hard time seeing what color the stripe is on those old blue wires.
Tip: on the few MPFI swaps I've done, I used the shielded blue pair of wires with ground that was in the OE MPFI harness, grounded to the thermostat. Idk why it was originally done that way, but I bet there's a good reason.
OOOO YEEESSSSS. thanks bam-bam. that might be it. actually when the one is grounded where should the other side go? i used the covered blue sheild but didnt strip for the ground. where would i run the other side, plug side?
WOOOooooOOOOOOOHHHHHOOOOOOOOoooooooOOO!!!!! SHE IS ALIVE. totally reran wires to distributor, checked the pins at b10 and b12. BINGO, had the pins in b12 and b14. repinned them, and bam, she revved past 3400rpms. but now the battery light wont go out. gonna have to solder the wires and rewrap the harness. thanks fellas for all the help. yessssss. man i am hyped. just need to bleed the brakes, and im rolling, and will definitely get pics up this weekend.
haha go figure.
i guess i could have mentioned that i also got my B10 and B12 wires mixed up when i first did my swap and couldnt figure it out for a month
oh well, have fun!!!
prematurally got excited. now the timing is off. i think the timing jumped a few teeth. now the timing wont even get close to being where it should be. cam gear arrows point up and the hash marks are straight across. the crank pulley set at TDC. even put some drill bits in the lil holder holes behind the cam gears. double check the marks when i rotate the crank with ratchet. start the car and shoot the timing light and it is off about 3/4's of an inch to an inch off the hash marks on the crank pulley, every time the #1 fires. done this like 4 or 5 times now and still get it in the same spot. any body have any clues??? any help would be appreciated.
YeaH BBoooyyyyyyy!! b18b came in this morning. fuggin clean motor. cant wait to put this one in and tear apart the b18a1 and sacrifice it. hahaha. gonna build an lsvtec, the right way, and drop that in later. HMO for the ftmfw!!
well try an get pics up. some much to do and not enough time.
all said and done, b18b powered 89 wago. will take pics today and have pics posted today. still not rolling though. test drove it last nite, and had a loud ticking sound. jacked it up wiggled the front passenger and wheel and bam, it moved a good 1/4 of an inch i would say, FUCK. damn it, and i was soooo hyped that it ran fuggin good. so now just got to source a good used front arm and install.
not sure about the drop but the rears were still a lil higher than the fronts. so i cut a coil off. and the pics will come manana. got busy today so tomarrow they will be up.
Comments
o and i might just sell the roof rack and also pulled and aftermarket cruise control if any body wants it. roof rack is a maybe but the cruise control is for sale.
with posting pix
thank goodness for the lifetime warranty too, if it wasnt for that i'd be screwed.
x2
checked the ecu pin outs again, looks good. only thing i can think of is the distributor. any one have any ideas?
this is not my first dpfi to mpfi conversion. did it on a crx before and it ran good, despite spun bearings in that ls. damn it this sucks balls.
o yeah can somebody send me detailed pics of the wiring on the distributor, where the plugs meet each other. dont know mine are hooked up right, that is the only thing i can think of. maybe the wiring on my old distributor was off, and the new one was correct?!.
and i do love a not an always good struggle...
meaning, yeah common
show us pix you trying
'how to fry a perfect engine'
i prefer medium, someone
could do that 1 bj later ...
Tip: on the few MPFI swaps I've done, I used the shielded blue pair of wires with ground that was in the OE MPFI harness, grounded to the thermostat. Idk why it was originally done that way, but I bet there's a good reason.
standard...as in iso/country
high amp
owh yeah
and money too
and the answer is...
i guess i could have mentioned that i also got my B10 and B12 wires mixed up when i first did my swap and couldnt figure it out for a month
oh well, have fun!!!
well try an get pics up. some much to do and not enough time.