Our U-Joint issue is solved!

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Comments

  • They are in business, but still no listing for the rt4wd u-joints.

    Are there any more details?
  • ^^give them a call..they have them in stock
  • Yup. Just call them and tell em what you need.
  • I got tired with the website so I just called them got 3 of em and installed all 3 in about an 1 1/2hrs, found it easier to install joint with one cap on into the inside of yoke then install other cap from outside and press together, works great!!! they seemed to know exactly what you need, kinda like they get this call "all the time" from crazy wago owners or something... :roll: :lol:
  • Everyone, be *sure* to watch the uTube clips, they are very informative!
    WagoDan, I just did mine and used your idea of starting the 1st cap from inside the yoke. It worked great!
    I didn't use a press/vice but a little sledge hammer and a bigA$$ bolt for a drift.
    I recommend using the cap with the grease fitting to start with from the inside so you don't have to worry about bunging it up. You need to start it with the cross piece in place to keep the needle bearings from falling over.
    Take the other 3 caps off {keep them clean!} and start by inserting the uncapped end into the yoke, then position the cap in the opposite hole. This is where it's really helpful to have the edges {*just* the edges!} of the yokes holes filed down smooth.
    Then I used a deep well impact socket to reach through the other yoke hole and around the shaft of the other end of the xPiece to tap the 1st cup partially into it's hole. You don't want to tap it all the way down, just enough to get it started.
    Then lift the xPiece up so the other shaft reaches up through it's hole and start the other cap from the outside. Make *sure* those needle bearings don't fall over when you start the 2nd cap. Smack it on down but not all the way in, just about even with the outside edge of the yoke.
    Put the cClip on the 1st one, spin it around so the open side is out, *then* seat the uJoint from the outside by tapping on the 2nd cap. I say "tap", but you gotta give it a good, firm lick.
    Put on the 2nd cClip and there you have it!
    Be sure to spin those cClips around or there won't be much to hold the cap in place.
  • I haven't installed it yet, waiting for some warmer weather to crawl under the car, but I'll let y'all know how it works.
    On a side note, I took the needle grease fittings out and put regular zerk fittings in to grease them up. Zerks are *much* easier to operate with less waste.
    I then replaced the needle grease fittings because I don't know if the zerk fittings would throw off the balance.
    Any thoughts on that?
  • mtbikerTimtbikerTi Band Wagon
    I put zerks on mine and left them in, I didn't notice any new vibrations.
  • Thanks, mtbikerTi!
    I intend to put a couplaHunnert more miles on them, then crawl back under there and grease them up again. I'll leave them in and see how it acts.
  • ohYeah, I got it in and they work great!
    I'll let y'all know how if there's a problem with the zerks after the 2nd grease.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Bump - u joint info
  • tumal1tumal1 Band Wagon
    stupid question, what is a u joint and what it look like please cause I got a rt too and i'm new on civic 4wd cars. i always own a honda, just never a 4wd thank.
  • GizmoGizmo Wagonist
    Can anyone help me get a set of these to the UK? Or any part numbers to find a local supplier?
  • 503Wagon503Wagon moderator
    Gizmo wrote: »
    Can anyone help me get a set of these to the UK? Or any part numbers to find a local supplier?

    i bet someone would be willing to buy them here and ship them to you if you payed up front. i dont have any time to get to a post office or i would totally help you out.the whole working 8am to 7pm kills my days.
    tumal1 wrote: »
    stupid question, what is a u joint and what it look like please cause I got a rt too and i'm new on civic 4wd cars. i always own a honda, just never a 4wd thank.

    google...hellofa drug. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint
  • Gizmo wrote: »
    Can anyone help me get a set of these to the UK? Or any part numbers to find a local supplier?

    Hey Gizmo I am wanting to buy some of these as well. I can get them shipped to my military address here in Germany and then ship them to you from here locally. There won't be any customs charges then for you. I will see if I can get a hold of a buddy and have him order two sets of these and let you know. You have a PM as well.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I'm willing to help if you need. I've been meaning to order a set myself. 3 or 4 sets wouldn't be much different.
  • As am I. I'm getting ready to order 4 for me. I can ship through my company to you in the UK.
  • shigshig Band Wagon
    Anybody out there have an RT4WD u-joint flange (yoke) they can spare? I'm getting a rear drive shaft rebuilt with these u-joints from Rockford, but one of my flanges is fried and so the project is on hold till I can find one. Rockford does the joints only, not the yokes.
  • ilgasilgas New Wagonist
    Sorry for bumping old thread, but I need your local ( form USA) help.
    Can anyone help me to get a pair of those U-joints (2pcs) from Rockford Drive Line and ship them to Europe, Lithuania?

    I wrote an email to Rockford - they have them on stock. Now is only the shipping issue.
  • The driveshaft issue is solved if you have serviceable flanges.

    All 6 flanges (from 2 complete drive shafts) were deformed, but I was able to find 3 that were somewhat useable, but I had to tack the bearing caps in place.

    THIS IS NOT A PROBLEM WITH THE ROCKFORD PRODUCT! I just wanted to make sure that was clear...but it is clearly a problem with using 20+ year old drive-line parts.

    Are the flanges for our wagons available?

    ilgas wrote: »
    Sorry for bumping old thread, but I need your local ( form USA) help.
    Can anyone help me to get a pair of those U-joints (2pcs) from Rockford Drive Line and ship them to Europe, Lithuania?

    I wrote an email to Rockford - they have them on stock. Now is only the shipping issue.

    I should be able to do this. Send me an email > cd.one.racing@gmail.com
  • Dealing with my 91 RTs vibration issue, and we've narrowed it down to the u joints. I have it at a reputable driveline shop here in Oregon. I mentioned the Rockford parts and they said that staked in U joints aren't sold to repair drivelines anymore because of the possibility of it coming off during driving? Has anyone else encountered this?
  • bkmc24bkmc24 Senior Wagonist
    Did you call rockford? A lot of people are negative on swapping out staked in joints, but it has been proven over and over to work.

    Call Rockford and ask if the joint is still available. Go from there.
  • So does anyone have a vendor they like for these? I don't think Rockford sells directly to the unwashed masses.
  • Have you tried calling or emailing them? I have bought several sets from them. They're the only ones who have it to my knowledge. Feel like I'm beating a dead horse here but it says this same thing about 30 times in this thread.
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    both emailed and called and bought less than a month ago directly. Give them a ring.
  • thaddeusssthaddeusss Band Wagon
    does anyone know if the earlier 4wd shafts are different from the later ones? I have an 86, I took it into a driveshaft shop and gave them the part # for the replacement, they said it would take expensive machine work because the inner lip of the flanges are not flat/square, and the inner retainer ring on the replacement joint would be stressed or not fit. those of you who have done the replacement, did you see this issue? should I give up on the shop and get my own hands dirty instead? I'm pretty busy and didn't want to deal with it, but...
  • AbideAbide Council Member
    Every place i called wouldnt take it after they found out it was a staked in, even if i was ordering the ujoints. It's a pain but it's doable yourself. Get a big hammer a good punch and vise.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJIL1vJDILY These will pretty much walk you right through it.
  • Just had my tailshaft uni's rebuilt at a shop, turns out there is a mitsubishi that uses the exact same staked in type unis with the same dimensions. They didn't have a part number for them sorry but they just measured up the uni's and cross referenced it on their computer and it came up as a mitsubishi part, apparently a common and easily obtainable part.
    I know not having part numbers doesn't help much but atleast you know there is something available off the shelf somewhere. I'll see if I can get more detailed info next time im around there
  • klumklum Senior Wagonist
    Just had my tailshaft uni's rebuilt at a shop, turns out there is a mitsubishi that uses the exact same staked in type unis with the same dimensions. They didn't have a part number for them sorry but they just measured up the uni's and cross referenced it on their computer and it came up as a mitsubishi part, apparently a common and easily obtainable part.
    I know not having part numbers doesn't help much but atleast you know there is something available off the shelf somewhere. I'll see if I can get more detailed info next time im around there

    well it cant be hard to track that down how many rwd mistubishis have been available there where you live?
  • Good point. Rvr hyper sports gear which use evo running gear, various lancer evolutions, sigma, scorpian, galant,mitsubishi starion and mitsubishi cordia,4wd magnas which use legnum running gear that could also be evo based, a range of light trucks, outlander 4wds, pajero, challenger. Im probably forgetting a few.
    I'll be heading back there as im going to try and find suitable bearing carrier's to use on the wagon and see if I can get an exact part number for the uni's aswell
  • I was reading this thread and i was just wondering if you found out which mitsubishi car that the driveshaft shop used u-joint out of
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