Main relay testing questions.
beauregaardhooligan
New Wagonist
I suspect my main relay since my '89 RT4wd {new cap and rotor} turns over easily but won't start.
There is gas, and you can hear the fuel pump run for a bit when you first turn the key. Also I tried giving it a shot through the air filter box, but it won't fire.
I'm trying to follow the step by step test procedure in the service manual but since I'm not too swuft with elektronikal stuff I figgered I'd better ask.
It says 1st attach batt + to #4 and batt - to #8 then check for continuity between #5 and #7.
I'm using a 12 volt light to test; I'm assuming "continuity" means the light will light, right?
Well it doesn't, but you can hear/feel the relay click/buzz when the connection is made.
Anyone know what that means? Am I doing it wrong?
There is gas, and you can hear the fuel pump run for a bit when you first turn the key. Also I tried giving it a shot through the air filter box, but it won't fire.
I'm trying to follow the step by step test procedure in the service manual but since I'm not too swuft with elektronikal stuff I figgered I'd better ask.
It says 1st attach batt + to #4 and batt - to #8 then check for continuity between #5 and #7.
I'm using a 12 volt light to test; I'm assuming "continuity" means the light will light, right?
Well it doesn't, but you can hear/feel the relay click/buzz when the connection is made.
Anyone know what that means? Am I doing it wrong?
Comments
But yes, if you have the battery hooked up like that and you're checking 5 & 7 it should light up.
Since you have the relay out, how about popping it apart and getting us a good picture of the solder connections. Often times that's what goes on here with the relays and they can be repaired fairly simply.
All that said, I had a recent problem with my car not starting and it was the distributor. You seem to have it narrowed down to the relay but it would be good to make sure. The relay itself is fairly robust so about the only thing I've seen fail on them is some old solder joints.
I do have an ohm meter but I'm really not sure how to use it or interpret the results.
The test light is just a small side marker light so it wouldn't take much to light it I should think.
How would I test a distributor? It seems like all the wiring is internal except for the spark plug wires. I know it's not that old, maybe 5 or so years.
Could the coil be bad?
I guess I need to test the coil next.
Any advice out there?
Excellent guide by ETCG for checking the distributor. Me personally I had to move my car out of the work parking lot so I just ordered a new distributor. But since there's no oil in there I know it's either the ignitor or the coil inside. But yeah, follow this guide, it should help you figure out what's wrong. And you have a spare relay now. Pop the old one open and take a pic of the insides for us, it's easy to tell if any parts in there are bad. Could be a combination of things.
greenTeaGod, thanks for the link! I'll be checking that out tomorrow. I'll try an get a pic of the old MR once I get FERTHER going again. Thanks!
Haydz, good info. Thanks!
As far as his tester goes, I can't afford one like that. Can I rig up my test light to check?
It seems like to me that the high voltage from the coil would burn it out, if it's putting out.
It didn't matter when I switched the polarity.
I'm figgering that means it's no good?