Layspeed's $100 1990 DX - B18B1 - 100+ Good Photos =D

I just realized I don't have a thread for my $100 beater I bought in October of 2010. I searched for it and couldn't find it! It looks pretty much like the day I bought it. Haven't done a whole lot to it except drive the hell out of it. It had 387xxx KM on the clock when I bought it and it's at around 402xxx KM now. I've changed the oil 3 times during this period. It did have an oil leak and burns oil so really the oil was always semi fresh
I finally got around to doing a major maintenance on it last winter.
I replaced the:
Timing belt
Water pump
Cam seal
Front crank seal
Valve cover gasket/spark plug tube seals/grommets
Spark Plugs
Fuel Filter
Distributor Cap/Rotor
It had rust, a busted out back window, warped rotors, missing the exhaust from the axle back, no stereo, noisy L/F wheel bearing (still does), seeping radiator (still does), faulty wiper arm linkages causing the wipers to smack against the cowl and the left side of the windshield at times, crack along the lower edge of the front windshield (still does!) when I first got it. Also the first day I brought it home, I noticed it rode a little funky and upon checking the front suspension, I found the R/F spring rusted and broken at the top! I was gonna take the suspension out and just cut the springs to level everything out for the meantime. Well, I started with the L/R strut and the lower shock bolt was seized to the LCA bushing. I snapped the head off the bolt and said "Fuck it!" I cut all four springs in the car. Took me about 2 hours with a million cuts with a die grinder :roll:
Three of the tires had leaks varying from 2 days to 2 weeks so I found a set of Pontiac Wave 15" alloys that had fairly new Goodyear snow tires and got a deal for $200. I eventually adapted the original chrome center caps to fit into the wheels to fake everyone out haha. Surprisingly, it drove fairly well through the little bit of snow we got here in BC the last two winters. This thing has been pretty awesome and I've always wanted one. It's got the typical Honda reliability I've become accustomed to and so far hasn't left me (or my wife) anywhere. Well once in front of our place when the rotor screw magically backed off.
I've got kids and am now spoiled with the luxury of power door locks in a few vehicles so I had to install 4 actuators and a generic switch on the dash to lock and unlock. My buddy Old Skool hooked me up with a Viper alarm/remote starter combo which is friggin' awesome in the winter! I also put in a Sony CD/mp3 deck with an Ipod cable he had laying around (which he thought DIDN'T work!) I think I put some different speakers in the front doors too that I found at the wreckers, can't remember now. Oh ya, since I couldn't find a back window for it locally, I drove down to damn near Seattle, Wa. to pick up a complete hatch assembly. It was a bonus that it was white also! We had to tweak the shit out of it to make it fit properly though because the car it came off of was it in one of the rear quarters.
I think that's about it...so I've been kicking the idea around lately to do a simple B18A1 swap from a 90-91 Acura Integra. I've found a pretty good deal on the swap package for the major parts. I know I can do the DPFI-->MPFI wiring myself. I've been scouring the web and forums for the past couple of days to find a definitive answer as to whether I absolutely need to buy an EF B-series swap mount kit or is there a some special combination of factory or oem Honda/Acura mounts that can work? I'm on a REALLY tight budget, as I'm pretty close to moving out of province for a job offer in the next few months. If anyone knows the answer to that one question I have, please let me know. Thanks. Now I guess on to the few photos I have of the $100 beater, most are from the first week I bought it.
#1

#2

#3

#4

#5

#6

#7

#8

#9

#10 - Stupid Integra airbox with NO filter and no battery hold down!

#11

#12

#13

#14

#15

#16

#17

#18 - How it currently looks but before the Honda center caps were put on

#19

I replaced the:
Timing belt
Water pump
Cam seal
Front crank seal
Valve cover gasket/spark plug tube seals/grommets
Spark Plugs
Fuel Filter
Distributor Cap/Rotor
It had rust, a busted out back window, warped rotors, missing the exhaust from the axle back, no stereo, noisy L/F wheel bearing (still does), seeping radiator (still does), faulty wiper arm linkages causing the wipers to smack against the cowl and the left side of the windshield at times, crack along the lower edge of the front windshield (still does!) when I first got it. Also the first day I brought it home, I noticed it rode a little funky and upon checking the front suspension, I found the R/F spring rusted and broken at the top! I was gonna take the suspension out and just cut the springs to level everything out for the meantime. Well, I started with the L/R strut and the lower shock bolt was seized to the LCA bushing. I snapped the head off the bolt and said "Fuck it!" I cut all four springs in the car. Took me about 2 hours with a million cuts with a die grinder :roll:
Three of the tires had leaks varying from 2 days to 2 weeks so I found a set of Pontiac Wave 15" alloys that had fairly new Goodyear snow tires and got a deal for $200. I eventually adapted the original chrome center caps to fit into the wheels to fake everyone out haha. Surprisingly, it drove fairly well through the little bit of snow we got here in BC the last two winters. This thing has been pretty awesome and I've always wanted one. It's got the typical Honda reliability I've become accustomed to and so far hasn't left me (or my wife) anywhere. Well once in front of our place when the rotor screw magically backed off.
I've got kids and am now spoiled with the luxury of power door locks in a few vehicles so I had to install 4 actuators and a generic switch on the dash to lock and unlock. My buddy Old Skool hooked me up with a Viper alarm/remote starter combo which is friggin' awesome in the winter! I also put in a Sony CD/mp3 deck with an Ipod cable he had laying around (which he thought DIDN'T work!) I think I put some different speakers in the front doors too that I found at the wreckers, can't remember now. Oh ya, since I couldn't find a back window for it locally, I drove down to damn near Seattle, Wa. to pick up a complete hatch assembly. It was a bonus that it was white also! We had to tweak the shit out of it to make it fit properly though because the car it came off of was it in one of the rear quarters.
I think that's about it...so I've been kicking the idea around lately to do a simple B18A1 swap from a 90-91 Acura Integra. I've found a pretty good deal on the swap package for the major parts. I know I can do the DPFI-->MPFI wiring myself. I've been scouring the web and forums for the past couple of days to find a definitive answer as to whether I absolutely need to buy an EF B-series swap mount kit or is there a some special combination of factory or oem Honda/Acura mounts that can work? I'm on a REALLY tight budget, as I'm pretty close to moving out of province for a job offer in the next few months. If anyone knows the answer to that one question I have, please let me know. Thanks. Now I guess on to the few photos I have of the $100 beater, most are from the first week I bought it.
#1

#2

#3

#4

#5

#6

#7

#8

#9

#10 - Stupid Integra airbox with NO filter and no battery hold down!

#11

#12

#13

#14

#15

#16

#17

#18 - How it currently looks but before the Honda center caps were put on

#19

Comments
I'm not positively sure about your question, but I think you need aftermarket mounts. I don't know of any combination of OE stuff to get you there.
It should! I should've just swapped the glass over as now I've got two different shades of faded white.
I saw those on ebay the other night. I can't trust them. One of the listings was saying if you made a video of you installing the mounts (a tutorial basically), you could get the mounts for free or some shit.
These are the mounts I'm going to get. The aluminum mounts are too baller and shiny for me...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250858524811?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Lay just stuff a nice stock B20 in that bad boy. They were go enough to move a cr-v for the most part. It would be great in that wag.
It really depends how you like to drive the car, do you want to keep the rpm's low and shift or rev it up a bit more like a regular honda with the B18.
The B20's are very common on the valley, just have to ask around. Having said that the cost alone of the B20 might be close to the B18 and mounts. It depends on what deal is out there.
On my crv-vtec I used the B16 intake manifold over the type r manifold for the same reason honda made that long giraff looking manifold. To keep more torque down low. Down side the shorter runner manifold make more power up top and overall. But the torque curve get's shifted towards the top aswell.
Also, I have another question regarding the OBD0 TO OBD1 conversion. I have no problems doing the wiring myself, even it it takes me a while, but (in your opinion) be best to just hard wire the OBD1 ECU plugs to the OBD0 harness and add the necessary MPFI wiring or doing the MPFI conversion then get an ECU Jumper harness? I've been reading all kinds of different and sometimes contradicting threads on the web the last few days and I'm thoroughly confused on which route to take. I guess most of it comes down to personal preference or skill level or time/money. I know for a fact that if I convert to OBD1 I will not be going BACK to OBD0 so hard wiring the OBD1 ECU plugs makes sense to me in that regard. The MPFI conversion and distributor wiring seems pretty straight forward. I guess I'm more thinking out loud than asking now but feel free to add your 2cents anyone. And the price of a jumper harness ranges from ~$50-200! I've read threads about making your own and am tempted to give it a shot, but again my focus goes back to the "why not hard wire it?" Haha!
Another quick question about fueling. I was thinking of changing the fuel pump with another new OE type replacement since the one in the car has over 400K Km on it! You think I should just upgrade at the same time? Anyone have personal experience with anything else other than the "walbro 255" that I see all the time? Thanks!
Now that you mention about hood clearance, I haven't swaped a B20 in an 88-91 chassis so I couln't tell you for sure if it clear's the hood and fire wall. Or you can just put the B18B intake manifold on the B20.
As far as the fuel pump I always upgraded to the walboro 255 because it was more cost effective over the oem one. But if you don't need or will never need that much fuel you're just going to be heating it up with that pump, so stick with a stock one.
Also, I think I'm going to cancel the insurance on my '90 and put my '78 back on the road for a month so I don't have to rush and get this swap done in a weekend. I'd like to do it right and make it clean. No not a "tucked" kind of clean; just an OEM looking, no dirt kind of clean.
Parts Ordered (NEW): Will add to this as I go
1. Innovative EF B-series mounts - Black Steel with 60a bushings
2. B18B1 Head Gasket Set - it was more cost effective than buying separate gaskets and seals
3. '90-91 Integra Clutch Kit
4. New EF '88-91 Civic Radiator
5. Timing Belt, Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley, Waterpump, Front Crankshaft Seal, (2) Cam Seals
6. Rear Crankshaft Seal
7. Oil Pan Gasket
8. Thermostat
9. Distributor Cap
10. Distributor Rotor
11. PCV Valve
12. Oxygen Sensor
13. '90-93 Integra B18A1 Lower Radiator Hose
14. '90-93 Integra B18A1 Upper Radiator Hose
15. '90-93 Integra Transmission Axle Seals (2)
16. NGK ZFR5FGP (STOCK #7098) Platinum Spark Plugs
17. New Front Wheel Bearings
Parts still need to purchase (NEW)
1. Alternator Belt (maybe unless I can find a good used one)
2. Engine Oil
3. Coolant
4. Misc. Coolant Hoses and clamps
Parts still needed to get/find (USED):
1. 90-93 Integra rear engine mount "T" bracket!
2. Starter
3. Alternator
4. 94-95 Integra B18B1 OBD1 ECU
I wanted to upgrade my front brakes a little bit and have been researching some. EX knuckles are pretty non-existent. I've read a few conflicting threads about the DA/90-93 Integra front spindles/knuckles fitting but giving a bit of positive(?) camber. Can someone either confirm or deny this fact? I have a bad left/front wheel bearing and figured it's easier for me to find a good set of knuckles so I can have some increased braking since I plan on towing some stuff during my move to Alberta in a few months....Any personal experiences is appreciated, thanks!
#20 - '94 Integra B18B1
#21
#22
#23
#24
#25 - S1 Transmission
#26 - Clutch that was on the engine. Thought it looked decent, but I will most likely just get a new clutch kit.
#27 - Intermediate shafts and axles, Integra clutch cable and throttle/accelerator cable
#28 - Good flywheel still can see the machining marks on it. It'll save me a little bit of $ not having to resurface it. Just needs a good cleaning
#29 - Grabbed this newer looking brake master cylinder from a '92 Integra. Hoping to replace my slowly aging original that likes to cause the pedal to sink to the floor during the "summer" months.
So I say go for it. But get an alignment after of course.
Having said all that, I think I've just about ran out of budget after ordering a bunch of replacement maintenance parts today for my swap, so the DA knuckle swap might have to wait a while until I start working again. I still need to buy fluids and an alternator belt. I spent a bit over $500+ today on eBay and Rockauto.com
I will update my parts ordered list in my first post.
EDIT! Ahh...what the hell my buddy Old Skool just informed me my photos weren't working. Stupid skydrive folder. I uploaded them elsewhere and hope the links/photos are working now. Can someone please let me know that they are. Even though I can see them on my end doesn't mean everyone else can. Thanks!
Ya, that's kind of the story with everyone around here
But ya, get to it when you can. I know you've got a lot on your plate atm...
#30 - B18B1 engine harness, valve cover, misc axles
#31 - Valve cover, timing covers, intake and exhaust manifolds
#32 - Intake side of cylinder head
#33 - Valvetrain
#34 - As I left it today
#31 Cleaned off the block deck and tops of the pistons
#32 No more oily mess
#33
#34
#35
#36 Original honing/cross hatching still there
#37 Disassembled valvetrain
#38
#39 CRX front lip added a few months ago
#40 Ugly valves
#41 Clean valves
#42
#43 Clean head
#44
#45 Clean valve springs
One of my favorite motors your putting in the B18b is a beast!
I feel ya!
Trying...I still have about a month to get it to the point where I'll be confident driving it to Alberta. Even after I get the swap up and running, there's still little things that I want to take care of especially in the suspension department. But that I'm trying to do with little out of pocket expenses. I would have a lot more done except I'm in the process of moving this week. Next week will be crazy...keep watching this thread! :twisted: