Layspeed's $100 1990 DX - B18B1 - 100+ Good Photos =D

I just realized I don't have a thread for my $100 beater I bought in October of 2010. I searched for it and couldn't find it! It looks pretty much like the day I bought it. Haven't done a whole lot to it except drive the hell out of it. It had 387xxx KM on the clock when I bought it and it's at around 402xxx KM now. I've changed the oil 3 times during this period. It did have an oil leak and burns oil so really the oil was always semi fresh :lol: I finally got around to doing a major maintenance on it last winter.
I replaced the:
Timing belt
Water pump
Cam seal
Front crank seal
Valve cover gasket/spark plug tube seals/grommets
Spark Plugs
Fuel Filter
Distributor Cap/Rotor

It had rust, a busted out back window, warped rotors, missing the exhaust from the axle back, no stereo, noisy L/F wheel bearing (still does), seeping radiator (still does), faulty wiper arm linkages causing the wipers to smack against the cowl and the left side of the windshield at times, crack along the lower edge of the front windshield (still does!) when I first got it. Also the first day I brought it home, I noticed it rode a little funky and upon checking the front suspension, I found the R/F spring rusted and broken at the top! I was gonna take the suspension out and just cut the springs to level everything out for the meantime. Well, I started with the L/R strut and the lower shock bolt was seized to the LCA bushing. I snapped the head off the bolt and said "Fuck it!" I cut all four springs in the car. Took me about 2 hours with a million cuts with a die grinder :roll:

Three of the tires had leaks varying from 2 days to 2 weeks so I found a set of Pontiac Wave 15" alloys that had fairly new Goodyear snow tires and got a deal for $200. I eventually adapted the original chrome center caps to fit into the wheels to fake everyone out haha. Surprisingly, it drove fairly well through the little bit of snow we got here in BC the last two winters. This thing has been pretty awesome and I've always wanted one. It's got the typical Honda reliability I've become accustomed to and so far hasn't left me (or my wife) anywhere. Well once in front of our place when the rotor screw magically backed off.

I've got kids and am now spoiled with the luxury of power door locks in a few vehicles so I had to install 4 actuators and a generic switch on the dash to lock and unlock. My buddy Old Skool hooked me up with a Viper alarm/remote starter combo which is friggin' awesome in the winter! I also put in a Sony CD/mp3 deck with an Ipod cable he had laying around (which he thought DIDN'T work!) I think I put some different speakers in the front doors too that I found at the wreckers, can't remember now. Oh ya, since I couldn't find a back window for it locally, I drove down to damn near Seattle, Wa. to pick up a complete hatch assembly. It was a bonus that it was white also! We had to tweak the shit out of it to make it fit properly though because the car it came off of was it in one of the rear quarters.

I think that's about it...so I've been kicking the idea around lately to do a simple B18A1 swap from a 90-91 Acura Integra. I've found a pretty good deal on the swap package for the major parts. I know I can do the DPFI-->MPFI wiring myself. I've been scouring the web and forums for the past couple of days to find a definitive answer as to whether I absolutely need to buy an EF B-series swap mount kit or is there a some special combination of factory or oem Honda/Acura mounts that can work? I'm on a REALLY tight budget, as I'm pretty close to moving out of province for a job offer in the next few months. If anyone knows the answer to that one question I have, please let me know. Thanks. Now I guess on to the few photos I have of the $100 beater, most are from the first week I bought it.

#1
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#2
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#3
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#4
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#5
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#6
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#7
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#8
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#9
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#10 - Stupid Integra airbox with NO filter and no battery hold down!
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#11
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#12
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#13
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#14
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#15
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#16
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#17
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#18 - How it currently looks but before the Honda center caps were put on
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#19
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Comments

  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Very nice! Gotta love a hundred dollar car.

    I'm not positively sure about your question, but I think you need aftermarket mounts. I don't know of any combination of OE stuff to get you there.
  • bam-bam wrote:
    Very nice! Gotta love a hundred dollar car.

    I'm not positively sure about your question, but I think you need aftermarket mounts. I don't know of any combination of OE stuff to get you there.
    Thanks bam-bam,I kinda figured that. I've had my eye on the Innovative steel mounts. If I gather all my parts this week, the swap should start very soon.
  • for a hunny, the fenders are worth it!! good buy!
  • Mr GMr G Wagonist
    Hey that hatch looks familiar.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I bought a bs set off ebay once for 99 shipped. That Yonaka junk. I never used them, traded them off, so I don't know how they acted.
  • for a hunny, the fenders are worth it!! good buy!
    Yeah no kidding...I consider it a buy of a lifetime as far as cars go for me. I paid $150 for the new hatch with glass and I had to drive 3.5 hours to get it!
    Mr G wrote:
    Hey that hatch looks familiar.
    It should! I should've just swapped the glass over as now I've got two different shades of faded white.
    bam-bam wrote:
    I bought a bs set off ebay once for 99 shipped. That Yonaka junk. I never used them, traded them off, so I don't know how they acted.
    I saw those on ebay the other night. I can't trust them. One of the listings was saying if you made a video of you installing the mounts (a tutorial basically), you could get the mounts for free or some shit.

    These are the mounts I'm going to get. The aluminum mounts are too baller and shiny for me...
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/250858524811?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I prefer the black ones too, but I got the Hasports used on the cheap.
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    So it's been damn near a month, and I've been flip flopping between the swap. I'm so indecisive sometimes I annoy myself! The other swaps that come to mind: D16Z6, D16Y8 (converted to OBD1), B18B1, B16A2 (probably not though $). I just accepted a job offer in Alberta and once I get my paperwork, I'll be moving out there. It's looking like early to mid May right now and I don't trust the original D15 to drive me the 1000+ miles. I need to move some stuff so I need it to pull a small utility trailer also. Which is why I'm leaning towards the B18's for the extra torque. I don't even care really if it's faster, I just like my cars to be reliable. I gotta find some money in a hole in the ground to make this happen soon though, so stay tuned.
  • AaronAaron Wagonist
    Why cant i find these deals!
  • Mr GMr G Wagonist
    Layspeed wrote:
    So it's been damn near a month, and I've been flip flopping between the swap. I'm so indecisive sometimes I annoy myself! The other swaps that come to mind: D16Z6, D16Y8 (converted to OBD1), B18B1, B16A2 (probably not though $). I just accepted a job offer in Alberta and once I get my paperwork, I'll be moving out there. It's looking like early to mid May right now and I don't trust the original D15 to drive me the 1000+ miles. I need to move some stuff so I need it to pull a small utility trailer also. Which is why I'm leaning towards the B18's for the extra torque. I don't even care really if it's faster, I just like my cars to be reliable. I gotta find some money in a hole in the ground to make this happen soon though, so stay tuned.


    Lay just stuff a nice stock B20 in that bad boy. They were go enough to move a cr-v for the most part. It would be great in that wag.
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    Mr G, will the B20 clear the hood though? Also B20's are pretty rare around these parts no? If I went with the B20, I'd still need to get B18 manifolds and ecu anyways though. I'm really considering the '94-95 B18B1 though as they are still OBD1 and makes things a tiny bit simpler. If I didn't have to buy an aftermarket mount kit to bolt in a B-series this would probably have been started on already. That extra $250 for mounts buys lots of much needed maintenance parts/misc swap parts. I still need to think about improving the cut rusty spring suspension setup, seeping radiator, front brakes and I need a trailer hitch if I'm planning on towing anything I guess lol.
  • Mr GMr G Wagonist
    The B20 is the same height at the B18. And you dont absolutley have to change the intake manifold.The B20 uses a long runner to keep the torque down low as opposed to the B18 manifold.

    It really depends how you like to drive the car, do you want to keep the rpm's low and shift or rev it up a bit more like a regular honda with the B18.

    The B20's are very common on the valley, just have to ask around. Having said that the cost alone of the B20 might be close to the B18 and mounts. It depends on what deal is out there.

    On my crv-vtec I used the B16 intake manifold over the type r manifold for the same reason honda made that long giraff looking manifold. To keep more torque down low. Down side the shorter runner manifold make more power up top and overall. But the torque curve get's shifted towards the top aswell.
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    Thanks for clearing that up. For some reason, I always thought the B20 deck height was slightly higher than the B18. And I thought the B20's intake manifold was too "tall" to clear under a Civic's hood. Torque anywhere would be ideal. I don't drive my cars fast anymore, just "granny shiftin', not double clutchin' like I should." I've budgeted $1000 all said and done. I'm thinking I might be pushing the upper limit of my budget as is going with a B18 and not a Z6 or Y8.

    Also, I have another question regarding the OBD0 TO OBD1 conversion. I have no problems doing the wiring myself, even it it takes me a while, but (in your opinion) be best to just hard wire the OBD1 ECU plugs to the OBD0 harness and add the necessary MPFI wiring or doing the MPFI conversion then get an ECU Jumper harness? I've been reading all kinds of different and sometimes contradicting threads on the web the last few days and I'm thoroughly confused on which route to take. I guess most of it comes down to personal preference or skill level or time/money. I know for a fact that if I convert to OBD1 I will not be going BACK to OBD0 so hard wiring the OBD1 ECU plugs makes sense to me in that regard. The MPFI conversion and distributor wiring seems pretty straight forward. I guess I'm more thinking out loud than asking now but feel free to add your 2cents anyone. And the price of a jumper harness ranges from ~$50-200! I've read threads about making your own and am tempted to give it a shot, but again my focus goes back to the "why not hard wire it?" Haha!

    Another quick question about fueling. I was thinking of changing the fuel pump with another new OE type replacement since the one in the car has over 400K Km on it! You think I should just upgrade at the same time? Anyone have personal experience with anything else other than the "walbro 255" that I see all the time? Thanks!
  • Mr GMr G Wagonist
    If you have the time and patience to do a ecu plug swap then by all means do it that way. That means there's less connectors to fail. Having said that I'm way to lazy and not to electricly inclined so I went the jumper harness route. The harness I got was about $115.

    Now that you mention about hood clearance, I haven't swaped a B20 in an 88-91 chassis so I couln't tell you for sure if it clear's the hood and fire wall. Or you can just put the B18B intake manifold on the B20.

    As far as the fuel pump I always upgraded to the walboro 255 because it was more cost effective over the oem one. But if you don't need or will never need that much fuel you're just going to be heating it up with that pump, so stick with a stock one.
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    Time, I have about a month and a half at the most. Patience, I've made myself do wiring many times without it haha! Yeah, I'm scratching B20 off the list. About the pump, what do you mean by "you're just going to be heating it up with that pump?" Turbo could be a remote possibility later down the road lol! Would it not just pump and the regulator would just release the unused fuel back to the tank anyway? I'll look into it more.
  • Mr GMr G Wagonist
    If you don't need 255lph you're just going to re-circulate the fuel, wich in turns heats the fuel up. It's not much but it does heat it up. Now if you do plan on boosting down the road well...
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    Finally pulled the trigger today on a used '94 Integra B18B1, a '91 Integra S1 transmission, got both styles of intermediate shafts, just in case, 2 flywheels, a decent looking clutch even! and a '97+ style valve cover. I will be ordering parts this week and get started on cleaning and prepping everything. Stay tuned. I might do a semi-half-assed-photo scattered tutorial. Of all things I forgot, it was the damn ECU LMAO!! I'll have to go back and get that along with a starter, alternator, and a rear engine mount "T" bracket since they didn't have ANY. WTF!?!? I'm excited.

    Also, I think I'm going to cancel the insurance on my '90 and put my '78 back on the road for a month so I don't have to rush and get this swap done in a weekend. I'd like to do it right and make it clean. No not a "tucked" kind of clean; just an OEM looking, no dirt kind of clean.

    Parts Ordered (NEW): Will add to this as I go
    1. Innovative EF B-series mounts - Black Steel with 60a bushings
    2. B18B1 Head Gasket Set - it was more cost effective than buying separate gaskets and seals
    3. '90-91 Integra Clutch Kit
    4. New EF '88-91 Civic Radiator
    5. Timing Belt, Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley, Waterpump, Front Crankshaft Seal, (2) Cam Seals
    6. Rear Crankshaft Seal
    7. Oil Pan Gasket
    8. Thermostat
    9. Distributor Cap
    10. Distributor Rotor
    11. PCV Valve
    12. Oxygen Sensor
    13. '90-93 Integra B18A1 Lower Radiator Hose
    14. '90-93 Integra B18A1 Upper Radiator Hose
    15. '90-93 Integra Transmission Axle Seals (2)
    16. NGK ZFR5FGP (STOCK #7098) Platinum Spark Plugs
    17. New Front Wheel Bearings

    Parts still need to purchase (NEW)
    1. Alternator Belt (maybe unless I can find a good used one)
    2. Engine Oil
    3. Coolant
    4. Misc. Coolant Hoses and clamps

    Parts still needed to get/find (USED):
    1. 90-93 Integra rear engine mount "T" bracket!
    2. Starter
    3. Alternator
    4. 94-95 Integra B18B1 OBD1 ECU

    I wanted to upgrade my front brakes a little bit and have been researching some. EX knuckles are pretty non-existent. I've read a few conflicting threads about the DA/90-93 Integra front spindles/knuckles fitting but giving a bit of positive(?) camber. Can someone either confirm or deny this fact? I have a bad left/front wheel bearing and figured it's easier for me to find a good set of knuckles so I can have some increased braking since I plan on towing some stuff during my move to Alberta in a few months....Any personal experiences is appreciated, thanks!
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    No one has a definitive answer for me to my DA knuckles question? Well, I've been trying to help Old Skool with his '79 wagon so mine is on the back burner for a few days/weeks. I might even have to work on another '89 wagon doing a power steering and A/C install, but who knows. I'm not really keen on doing it because of lack of time. Anyhow, I managed to snap some photos of the engine and some parts I got last weekend.

    #20 - '94 Integra B18B1
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    #21
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    #22
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    #23
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    #24
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    #25 - S1 Transmission
    530110_3048469929916_1208237187_2308669_541936352_n.jpg

    #26 - Clutch that was on the engine. Thought it looked decent, but I will most likely just get a new clutch kit.
    537852_3048470929941_1208237187_2308671_1543389630_n.jpg

    #27 - Intermediate shafts and axles, Integra clutch cable and throttle/accelerator cable
    541187_3048470769937_1208237187_2308670_908642535_n.jpg

    #28 - Good flywheel still can see the machining marks on it. It'll save me a little bit of $ not having to resurface it. Just needs a good cleaning
    532087_3048471289950_1208237187_2308672_182501164_n.jpg.

    #29 - Grabbed this newer looking brake master cylinder from a '92 Integra. Hoping to replace my slowly aging original that likes to cause the pedal to sink to the floor during the "summer" months. :lol:
    523356_3048471609958_1208237187_2308673_621762234_n.jpg
  • Mr GMr G Wagonist
    The DA knucles work, I have them and have no issues. I had them on my hatch with no issue's as well.

    So I say go for it. But get an alignment after of course. :D
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    Mr G wrote:
    The DA knucles work, I have them and have no issues. I had them on my hatch with no issue's as well.

    So I say go for it. But get an alignment after of course. :D
    Thanks G! I've read so many threads about it messing up steering axis inclination and raising roll centers and blah, blah, blah.. :lol: A few (people on other forums also) said they are physically about 1/2" taller than the Civic ones so that it pushes out the top of the tire (increasing camber). I could see that altering steering geometry since it would change the arc of the upper control arm relative to the lower control arm compared to the OE Civic knuckles. The difference is probably negligible at most though. If you've run them on two different EF's and haven't noticed anything significant, seems ok. I would get an alignment afterwards of course.

    Having said all that, I think I've just about ran out of budget after ordering a bunch of replacement maintenance parts today for my swap, so the DA knuckle swap might have to wait a while until I start working again. I still need to buy fluids and an alternator belt. I spent a bit over $500+ today on eBay and Rockauto.com

    I will update my parts ordered list in my first post.

    EDIT! Ahh...what the hell my buddy Old Skool just informed me my photos weren't working. Stupid skydrive folder. I uploaded them elsewhere and hope the links/photos are working now. Can someone please let me know that they are. Even though I can see them on my end doesn't mean everyone else can. Thanks!
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    They're working now :)
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    Charb1618 wrote:
    They're working now :)
    Thanks Charb! And I haven't forgotten about you...just been super busy and waiting for the damn sun to come out!
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Layspeed wrote:
    Charb1618 wrote:
    They're working now :)
    Thanks Charb! And I haven't forgotten about you...just been super busy and waiting for the damn sun to come out!


    Ya, that's kind of the story with everyone around here :(

    But ya, get to it when you can. I know you've got a lot on your plate atm...
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    I had about a couple of hours today so I decided to disassemble the engine. I removed the engine harness first, then the exhaust manifold, intake manifold, power steering pump and bracket, A/C bracket, alternator brackets, intake manifold, crank pulley, valve cover, timing covers and stopped there for the day. Underneath the valve cover and in the head looks very good...not full of sludge and caked on oil residue. The intake ports on the head were fairly clean too. The water pump looks like an OEM Honda and too clean for it's age. It was probably replaced once, as does the timing belt itself. It makes no difference because they're both getting changed anyhow. Just dropping off some more photos. I'm going to edit my previous posts and keep the numbering of the photos in a continuous sequence that way if anyone has a question/comment regarding something, it will be easier to reference. Good idea right?!

    #30 - B18B1 engine harness, valve cover, misc axles
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    #31 - Valve cover, timing covers, intake and exhaust manifolds
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    #32 - Intake side of cylinder head
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    #33 - Valvetrain
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    #34 - As I left it today
    536942_3053951386949_1208237187_2311585_1079442148_n.jpg
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    Finally got a few hours in on the swap. I've been able to scrub and clean the block, head, intake manifold, and transmission. I pulled the head and replaced the valve seals, lapped all the valves, and tonight reinstalled the valves and torqued the cylinder head down. Pics to follow when I get a chance. This weekend is a busy one. I also got a bunch of parts ordered and most of them showed up. Still waiting on a few things next week. I still need to find time to hit the wreckers to get a '90-93 Integra rear mount "T" bracket or else the swap can't even get started...
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    Just photos for today...

    #31 Cleaned off the block deck and tops of the pistons
    578689_3111504225734_1208237187_2341929_1556809371_n.jpg

    #32 No more oily mess
    555660_3111504865750_1208237187_2341930_710488271_n.jpg

    #33
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    #34
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    #35
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    #36 Original honing/cross hatching still there
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    #37 Disassembled valvetrain
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    #38
    523372_3111760112131_1208237187_2342015_597943460_n.jpg

    #39 CRX front lip added a few months ago
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    #40 Ugly valves
    522156_3111760672145_1208237187_2342017_1272907423_n.jpg

    #41 Clean valves
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    #42
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    #43 Clean head
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    #44
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    #45 Clean valve springs
    574569_3111767072305_1208237187_2342036_904541335_n.jpg
  • spede18spede18 Wagonist
    Nice job on the motor so far going to have 1 mean wagon thats for sure.
    One of my favorite motors your putting in the B18b is a beast!
  • MattKoMattKo Wagonist
    Looks good! If I were to grab a 2wd wagon, I'm sure I'd be doing the same thing.
  • Mr GMr G Wagonist
    Looking good Lay you're making good proggress on this thing.
  • LayspeedLayspeed Wagonist
    spede18 wrote:
    Nice job on the motor so far going to have 1 mean wagon thats for sure.
    One of my favorite motors your putting in the B18b is a beast!
    Thanks! I like the Integra LS motors a lot. VTEC is cool and all but not necessary for me. I don't know about mean...but the way it looks, it'll probably be a little bit of a sleeper that's for sure.
    MattKo wrote:
    Looks good! If I were to grab a 2wd wagon, I'm sure I'd be doing the same thing.
    I feel ya!
    Mr G wrote:
    Looking good Lay you're making good proggress on this thing.
    Trying...I still have about a month to get it to the point where I'll be confident driving it to Alberta. Even after I get the swap up and running, there's still little things that I want to take care of especially in the suspension department. But that I'm trying to do with little out of pocket expenses. I would have a lot more done except I'm in the process of moving this week. Next week will be crazy...keep watching this thread! :twisted:
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