Lightweight flywheel (7.5 lbs.)
judebert
familEE
The electric motor is out of my car, and I figure this is the time to replace the flywheel. I'd like the lightest thing I can get without paying more than $200 all told. Since I don't have a starter, I obviously don't need a starter ring.
I did some looking online, but I can't find much that says it's for the Wagon.
What kind of car has a direct replacement for the Wagon flywheel?
I did some looking online, but I can't find much that says it's for the Wagon.
What kind of car has a direct replacement for the Wagon flywheel?
Comments
Oh and i watched 'who killed the electric car' a few days ago and read your website.
you are an inspiration.
what year is your car? if it is a 90-91 you can use this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACT-Pro- ... 6560QQrdZ1
with that design... i bet you could easily take it to a machine shop and have them remove the starter ring and get it balanced. Plus it's way under your $200 budget.
can someone verifiy if the 88-89 flywheels are different/same as 90-91?
I'd suggest a stock 15 lbs CX flywheel, run 212mm clutch. Go NO lighter that 12 lbs, with such a heavy wagon, stock would be best.
I'm speaking from a DD/drag point of view.......Bisi and me gonna argue about this until he puts a stock flywheel back in the barbie mobile
I assume you're talking about the soccer babe pictures.
If it had taken me less than two years to actually get it to the point where I could blow up the motor, I'd actually be proud. For now, I'm just humble. If you're ever in Orlando, I'll give you a ride.
I can't believe I was stupid enough to omit this information, but:
It's an '88 wagon, just like Quarters said, with the split rear seat.
It was a 4WD (I don't know about the RT, sorry, Pacifier), but I removed the drive shaft and rear diff to get battery space and save weight. I replaced the engine with an electric motor; there's a big aluminum adaptor plate to make the motor face look like the original engine face, and there's a big hub on the output shaft providing the holes for the flywheel to mount to.
There's a bunch of other mods to support the electric conversion, but none of them affect the transmission or flywheel.
All in all, from where the flywheel attaches, all the way to the transfer case, it looks like the original '88.
Actually, there's a motorcycle machine shop down the street from me. I'm hoping they can balance the whole assembly as a unit once I get it attached; I'll be they can take off the starter ring at the same time.
Shifting is a little bit different in an EV.
The motor doesn't rotate when the car is stopped, so when I'm on the line waiting to accelerate, the clutch pedal is fully up. I just hit the accelerator and go. (Not that I do any racing, especially not with this lethargic controller.)
The only time I actually use the clutch is when I shift while moving. When I engage the clutch, the motor and flywheel start coasting; there's no resistance, and nothing to slow them down. When I release the clutch, the motor and flywheel need to slow down to the tranny speed, but there's still no resistance other than inertia. (I actually feel a tiny pulse of power when I release the clutch.) Finally, I hit the accelerator and start moving again.
I figured that in this situation, I'd want the smallest, lightest flywheel I could get, to minimize the inertia. The clutch never needs to be feathered, so it should last practically forever.
Am I incorrect? Would you still recommend the 15lb. w/ 212mm clutch?
Instead of changing the flywheel, which lighter would be best for you, is there anyway to put a regenative circuit to slow the motor when shifting?
Would only need a 2% load, beem ALONG TIME since I read up on EV's.
I stumbled upon this link http://www.metricmind.com/ac_honda/images/ while looking for a "8 valve HF" valve cover, since Bisi said they do exsist.
What tranny are you running? What rpm is the motor "happy"
Same with regen (regenerative braking). That needs to be implemented in the controller, and I can't find a decent controller that'll do it.
I could do "dynamic braking", which is just hooking up a big heater to the motor and switching the wires to run backwards when I hit the brakes. But they're big wires, which means really big switches, which means $150 each for two. I figure a lightweight flywheel will reduce weight (duh), but especially reduce my rotating mass. That might even get me a little extra range.
I'm using the stock six-speed '88 tranny. The motor is actually happiest from 0 to about 4000. (It generates max torque at 0 RPM. I start in third and stay there for most in-town trips. It's like having an automatic, but without the wussy factor or loss of power.)
It sounds like I could use a lightened flywheel for any '88-'89 Civic, and keep the stock clutch. If I didn't state this correctly, somebody stop me before I buy!
Some of the lightest flywheels I've seen go for pretty cheap on ebay.
That other site that Mista Bone found looks wild too. :shock:
I wonder how much your electric bill would be monthly if you had an electric car?
Plus, what are the effects on an electric car in below zero weather
In that case, what do I need to replace to get the larger setup? Will the new flywheel and clutch fit in the existing tranny? Will I need new throwout bearings?
My pack is only 7.5Kwh. Call it 10Kwh to make it easy. If I use the whole pack every day, at 7 cents per Kwh, that's 70 cents a day. Times 30 days is $21/month.
Install solar cells on your roof and you don't even need to worry about it. I'm working on that, too.
Depends on the batteries. Lithium and NiCad have no problems. NiMH takes a small hit. Standard lead (like mine) hurt bad, often down to half their capacity.
In those climates, EV drivers often insulate their battery boxes and install electric blankets in them. That keeps the batteries nice and warm, so no hit. And you'll often find plugs on the street; they look like parking meters, but they're actually to keep gas cars' radiators from freezing. They're great for charging your EV. Usually they're free, too.
Mine is insulated, just in case, even though I live in Orlando. I've even got a ceramic electric heater installed to provide cabin heat. It heats up instantly, unlike a radiator. Of course, it also uses a little electricity. There's always a tradeoff.
If there are other problems, like shape, I may have to settle with the original.
Here's a recap, for the late joiners and those who don't want to look through the entire thread:
Have: Stock '88 manual 6-speed 4WD tranny, with 200mm flywheel and matching clutch and throwout bearing.
Want: Lightest possible flywheel. About $200 all told. Used parts acceptable. The regular gasoline-powered constraints do not apply: the electric motor needs no starter, never stalls, and is connected to the wheels practically all the time, even at stoplights.
Obstacle: There seem to be no performance parts for the '88-89 200mm setup.
Candidate solution: There are plenty for the '90-'91, which has a 212mm setup.
Question:
Will a 212mm '90-'91 flywheel fit in my '88 4WD tranny? I plan to remove the starter ring, if that's the big difference. Will I need to replace my '88 clutch and throwout bearing at the same time?
Thanks again
I appreciate the help. E-Bay, here I come.
It doesn't fit.
The flywheel looks like it'll fit with little trouble. It might scrape the inside of the case, but that'll stop when I take the starter ring off.
The pressure plate might fit. The hole in the center looks the same, but there are fewer springs than the original pressure plate. I'm still working on that.
The friction disk doesn't fit over the transmission shaft. The splines are different; it looks like they're off by ONE FARKING TOOTH. It's possible I can use the old friction disk, but I'm still checking into it.
And finally, although the throwout bearing looks identical, the pilot bearing is too small to fit over the shaft. More on that as it develops, too.
So, anybody know someone who wants a brand-new flywheel and clutch kit for his '90-'91 CRX, $225? And what *will* fit in my '88 RT4WD?
So, get those splines counted and measure the clutch diametre - once you have done that you need to acquire an RT4WD pilot bearing... then you are away laughing.
Read my last sentence. :? You DON'T need to sell the CRX Flywhl or pressure plate.Just get the clutch,pilot brg & TO brg for a '88 Wgn 4WD.
I think they sent you the WR :evil: NG pilot brg.All Wgn &CRX use the same pilot brg.
:arrow: :!: Do not use the CRX TO brg.The 4WD Wgn TO brg is 4WD specific. :!: :!: :!:
Thanks, I read it (again). Lots of information here, and clutch parts are particularly inconsistently named. In particular, "clutch" often means "pressure plate and friction disk" when I hear it.
As reported earlier, it looks like the flywheel might just barely fit; the pressure plate will just barely fit; and the friction disk will not fit at all. I assume, then that by "Just get the clutch..." you were referring to only the friction disk? It looks like the OEM friction disk will fit the friction surface of the flywheel, although the new pressure plate's friction surface doesn't contact the entire inside diameter of the friction disk, and slightly overlaps the outside diameter.
I'll report back after I give everything a non-destructive try on Friday.
Thanks again for all the help.
Pressure Plate Overlap isn't a prob.There is a Honda JDM friction disk(clutch) that is larger.A aftermrkt (like Exedy) 'CRX clutch will probably be better(though they most likely didn't make one 'cuz it was only a 1 year run). :x
FLywheel shouldn't be a prob unless Honda went to a larger trans case(which I doubt).In '90-91 Honda decided the Civic needed a larger flywhl.I quess the engineers went the MAX.All the Civic s use the larger 210mm flywhl.
The friction disk is slightly different, and not just in the transmission shaft teeth: the wagon disk is slightly smaller (both about the same width, but the wagon has a smaller inside diameter). Therefore the pressure plate will be pressing on less area. This is not a problem in my application, but it may be for yours.
The pressure plate is bigger, but not deeper. It should fit with no problem.
The pilot bearing -- according to my brother, the ex-mechanic -- is specific to the flywheel.
Finally, we'll be using the original throwout bearing, since it's practically new.
All told, the only parts I won't use from the upgrade kit are the friction disk and the throwout bearing.
Thanks to everyone for their input. I'm ready to advance my project!
Your brother is right,but in the Wgn's case all 88-91(-'96 other countries) Civic's Wgn,CRX,Sdn,HB &92-93 Del SOl's all use the same pilot brg.
When you said the TO brg was almost NEW.Was there a recent friction disk replacement?
Yes, before he installed the motor he replaced the clutch. So I've got a practically-new OEM pressure plate laying on the floor of my garage. It's a sacrifice I'm willing to make.