Adjust the idle screw after you unplug the eacv to your prefered rpm. Then plug the eacv back in turn the engine off and reset your ecu by pulling the ecu and the hazard fuses. My idle didn't automatically drop down to 650 rpm like the post from the zcr said it would, I had to manually set it from the idle screw.
I would sharpen a flat head screwdriver to a sharp point, then with a hammer tap it lightly so that it diggs in a little. Then try turning it. It shouldn't be in there too tight, mine was really easy to turn.
I think we have covered most everything other than the throttle plate itself being stuck. Hopefully the new vacuum lines fix it. I would suggest getting a new idle air screw. not sure how to replace them but I'm sure you can find it with a search. If not a new throttle body should be easy to find. Good luck!
Trickster's right, what you're describing sounds like a big vacuum leak or a stuck EACV.
Test the EACV: take off the intake tube so you're looking at the throttle plate. There's a hole about1/2" diameter in the bore of the throttle body, in line with the eacv bolted to the rear of the manifold. Plug that hole with your finger and the idle should drop. What you're doing is defeating the eacv. If the speed remains high, it's something else.
My money is on a vacuum leak. Bear in mind that a vacuum leak is the same as opening the throttle as far as the ecu knows.
Hit up the junkyard, usually can find them easy enough. Clean the new one up (i usually get it all installed, then remove it from the intake manifold, pour some gas in it and cycle the ignition a couple times, then bolt it back up) and then do what humor posted and it should work like a charm. If you want I can mail you one or two I have floating around, not sure they will work but might be worth a try.
ill check my local yard this saturday, do you know what models have my EACV by chance? if i cant find any i might take you up on that offer. you never know what youll find lying around at u pull and pay haha
Just about everything from 88 to 95 civic or integra. There are two different ones that I'm aware of as far as bolting it to the intake manifold. So bring yours with you. The dual port injection ones will work, but its a little funky because the tubes come off at weird angles making it a tight fit. Not totally sure on the integra, but seem to remember some of those fitting too. Any 88-91 civic should have the right one especially if it is mpfi though. Good luck!
can i just block this stupid iac thing? when i plug the hole it runs great. but when its open it idles at 2k rpm... would it cause problems other then a cel.
I have a friend who did it and claims it works great. He just left it plugged in but blocked the holes on the intake with a plate. When I drove with one unplugged however, the deceleration was very choppy. The car wanted to jerk as it slowed down in gear. My suggestion is block off the bad one you have, but leave it plugged in and drive with it to see if it effects your drivability.
Maybe fill the holes in it with some JB weld, just make sure it doesnt interfere with the mating surface, and let it dry before bolting it back up just in case .
my plan is to take the extra piece of plexiglass i have and cut it like a tb gasket, then put it in the middle of two tb gaskets. think it will work? not cutting the hole either lol
Comments
Test the EACV: take off the intake tube so you're looking at the throttle plate. There's a hole about1/2" diameter in the bore of the throttle body, in line with the eacv bolted to the rear of the manifold. Plug that hole with your finger and the idle should drop. What you're doing is defeating the eacv. If the speed remains high, it's something else.
My money is on a vacuum leak. Bear in mind that a vacuum leak is the same as opening the throttle as far as the ecu knows.