VSS help after swap, high idle speeds

USAFswagwag

So i just swapped a d15b2 i rebuilt for the time being :encouragement: (my d16a6 has a bad crank, valves, and all the good stuff after 350k miles on it :disturbed: ). High idle is really my biggest problem, its running like 1700k to 2000k, also my spedo is not reading anymore, im guessing the vss??? I know i have the timing right, turned back the dizzy, and the tps with no luck. Would realy appreciate some help from you guys. Searched this a few times but couldnt find anything helpful on or off the site.

USAFswagwag

Also, losened the throttle cabel till it was almost hanging there and bent the tab near the dash pot like manual says... nothing...

darktrickster

Check your idle air adjustment. If your DPFI, it will be on the left side of the throttle body if your facing the engine very close to where the throttle cable hooks up to the butterfly valves. If your MPFI, It should be to the left of where you hook up that red braided hose that goes from the charcoal canister to the throttle body if your facing the opening (I believe, easy to find either way ). Turn it while the car is idling and warm till you get the idle you want. If it starts hunting for an idle when you get to the correct idle then it is probably something else effecting your Idle. Also check for vacuum leaks. Also, the air control valves on these often go bad and need to be cleaned, but that usually results in the car "hunting" for a particular idle speed.

darktrickster

As far as the speedometer goes, I would start by making sure it's all the way in the transmission. Sometimes they like to catch right before they engage. Try pulling it out and spinning it some and see if it goes further in. If you can get someone to watch the gauge, you should be able to get the needle to move slightly by spinning the cable by hand if your fast enough. I sandwich it between my hands and rub them back and forth. That will tell you whether or not the cable is busted. Alternatively, if your not lazy like me you can pull the gauge cluster out and just look at the other side of the cable to see if it is spinning.

USAFswagwag

mmk, i checked that just now (by the eway im mpfi) but its still at 1500 without any change i have it twisted as far back as possible.

USAFswagwag

where exactly should i look for that on the rt4wd tranny?

darktrickster

the speedo cable is underneath the intake manifold directly to the right of the rear tranny mount looking at the engine from the front. In fact there should be a plastic clip holding the cable to the mount. Same place on all the 88-91 d-series trannies.

USAFswagwag

alright found that, looks like it got pretty dinged when i dropped the engine in ( oops ). any other ideas for the idle?

darktrickster

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=399207270143801&set=a.326163380781524.77793.100001635944447&type=3&theater
the speedo cable is to the right of the heater core inlet and outlet and is more or less in the same place it would be with the tranny installed. Hope that helps.

USAFswagwag

the idle on this thing is fine, if i push the throttle back it lowers and doesnt have any issues, but if i let go of it then its right back to 1500. pushing on it only gets me to like 1100 though.

darktrickster

sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

darktrickster

Can you show me a pic of your throttlebody? Also, try lubing up all the moving parts inside and out on the throttle body.

USAFswagwag

alright i finally threw a cel, number 17 which is my EACV. could that be causing all of this headache? its missing two wires, looks like the guy before me pulled them out for some reason.

darktrickster

yeah, that could be the problem for sure. It only has two wires going to it though. So it doesn't have any now right?

USAFswagwag

got spedo back in also, ill have to see when i take it on a test ride later

USAFswagwag

nope, theres the holes for them thats for sure, but they are removed. my pigtail was just hidden from view, must have missed it while wiring the thing up.

darktrickster

That'll do it! good luck, should work fine once you get them wired up. If you need to know what the colors are and which way they go let me know and I'll go look.

darktrickster

Oh yeah, you will probably have to readjust your idle screw after you fix it. Might not idle right off the bat if it is still adjusted all the way down.

USAFswagwag

awesome man, thanks for all the help!

darktrickster

No problem, Although looks like you would have figured it out just as fast without me. Sometimes it helps to just think out loud though.

USAFswagwag

Alright, so i fixed that. still idling super high. the only cel i have is coolent temp sensor for some reason (even though i have a new one, that works) how on earth is it doing this haha

darktrickster

Well, there are three coolant temperature sensors. I'm not positive which one the ecu reads, but if I were to guess I would think its the one that goes to the gauge. That one is located under the distributor in the head and is just one wire. Does your gauge work? Also, there are three or four plugs that all fit in each others locations, so you might want to do some research and make sure the right colors are going to the right sensors. All of the coolant temperature sensors (except the gauge one), the IAT, the EACV, and if you have one the tandem air bypass valve (I think it is called) are the sensors with the same plug. Also is the EACV the same one from the old motor or the one that came with the d15? It may be stuck or clogged.

darktrickster

Double check all the vacuum lines too, sounds a lot like a vacuum leak. maybe try removing non critical ones and blocking them off just to test, such as the brake booster, the fuel pressure regulator, the do hicky on the throttle body (not the map sensor) and see if the high idle corrects. Then you will know what line to replace if any.

USAFswagwag

allright ill get back to you in like ten min.

USAFswagwag

well i found two problems, one was the guy before me left a house tee'd and hanging under the fuel can thing, and the break booster had a leaked but i fixed it. buuuuttttt, it started right back after like 20 seconds... i can wiggle the vac line on the little sensors attached to the firewall and the idle will slow, but i think thats because they get pinched not so much a leak. got any other ideas? im gonna buy all new vac lines tonight anyways just to make sure though. i just wanna try everything before i start blowing tons of money

USAFswagwag

little more then ten min too sorry lol

USAFswagwag

by the way didnt see the post above the vac lines, nut yeah everything is wired now, including those three on the back of the throttle body. got rid of all my cel codes.

humorwvp

You know I had this same idle problem when I swapped my zc, after going through all the steps mentioned above and after checking and cleaning sensors this is what finally made this thing idle good. I highlited and copied part of the post from the zcr. Although your engine is not a zc I don't see why this wouldn't work, it's worth a try.



"I see this posted alot. Maybe this will help so we don't get so many double posts. This is general idle info from the Honda ZC Manual.
You will get check engine lights by doing this and have to reset your ecu. The EACV is located o the rear of the intake manifold and has 2 hoses running into the bottom. The plug for it on mine is green.

Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temp. When the car is under no load(i.e. no lights, no fans, no ac or heater, no power being pulled) disconnect the EACV plug. The car should drop to 650+ or-50 rpm. Adjust your idle adjustment screw(located on the throttle body) to dial this in. Plug the EACV plug back in.

Turn the engine off and reset the ecu(disconnect the hazard and ecu fuse for 10 sec.). Idle the engine for a minute under no load conditions your car should idle at 800+ or-50 rpm. Now idle for a min. with the lights and rear defoger on, the idle should stay within this 800+ or -50rpm range. Do the same thing with the heater on high."

USAFswagwag

ill give it a shot humorwvp, let me get back to you

humorwvp

Yea the idea here is to reset your ecu and clear that bad idle, then let the ecu relearn the good idle. It worked for my wagon and I've also had to do something similar to my escalade.

USAFswagwag

ok so i pulled the eacv plug and nothing happened with the idle :nightmare: the colors on the plug wires are blue and white, and black and yellow. is that correct?