door hinge problems

Solscud007

is this a problem? cant I just remove this part? what does it do anyway? isnt it there just to stop my door from opening out too far?


Driverside
here is when I open the door. it pulls out.


and if i close the door a little it goes back in place. see the crappy welding?


Passengerside
this one works fine.

SiWagon

You got it right.It's not a prob it just makes a noise every time you close the door (I think).That's why they welded it.

ragenasian

HA HA I thought you had posted a picture of my car up there. Mine looks exactly the same way with the same terrible weld job. I just left it alone. It just makes noise.

Solscud007

thanks I might take it out when I swap out doors. found a decent front door and fender local.

Darthevo

Anyone have a part number for this or even a part name so that I can call my honda dealer up and ask em if they have it? Been trying to search the forums for how to replace this or how hard this is. Anyone with tips?

Jaker

I'm pretty sure that part is spot welded into the door jamb when they weld the unibody together. There's no physical way to access it without cutting the door jamb area open. Mine's busted too, and as well, I have the crappy attempted welding job which has now also broken. I'll be taking the door off shortly to re-paint it, and at that time, I'll clean up the bracket and the door jamb itself, and weld it properly.

Darthevo

Jaker wrote:

I'm pretty sure that part is spot welded into the door jamb when they weld the unibody together. There's no physical way to access it without cutting the door jamb area open. Mine's busted too, and as well, I have the crappy attempted welding job which has now also broken. I'll be taking the door off shortly to re-paint it, and at that time, I'll clean up the bracket and the door jamb itself, and weld it properly.

What's involved with this Jaker? Easy enough to figure out when I remove the fender? Removing the fender is trivial too right? Hopefully you've pics when you get this done

bam-bam

Darthevo wrote:

Jaker wrote:

I'm pretty sure that part is spot welded into the door jamb when they weld the unibody together. There's no physical way to access it without cutting the door jamb area open. Mine's busted too, and as well, I have the crappy attempted welding job which has now also broken. I'll be taking the door off shortly to re-paint it, and at that time, I'll clean up the bracket and the door jamb itself, and weld it properly.

What's involved with this Jaker? Easy enough to figure out when I remove the fender? Removing the fender is trivial too right? Hopefully you've pics when you get this done

What Jaker's saying is that " There's no physical way to access it without cutting the door jamb area open." !

I have seen three categories of driver door check straps:
Original, unbroken ones
broken ones
repaired and REbroken ones.

I'm not sure what lies inside that a-pillar, but it must exert more leverage than a weld at the face of the jamb can handle.

Jaker

I intend on welding it cleanly and properly once I've removed the door. I suspect that I'll manage to get things prepped sufficiently well that the weld will hold.

I just went through the whole body section of the Helms, and there is no mention anywhere of that piece inside the A pillar. If you were hell bent on doing it OEM, you'd need to steal that section of A pillar from another unibody at the wreckers, and cut open your A pillar to slide it inside, and then weld the whole works back together. Not worth my time and effort, not to mention the possible repercusions to the structural integrity of the unibody in that area.

Darthevo

Damnnns.... that's crazy... I guess this must be the only part of our Honda's that isn't easy to work on... Pooo.. was sooo loooking forward to fixing this... peh...

Right now mine is 'clicking' really bad. Not fully broken, but annoying...

nominous

I can also assure you that there is no way to get to this without stripping out your dash and the wiring in the area.

It seems to be a fault I've only ever seen on Shuttles.
Both the ones I had and Marc's have the same problem, but of course on the other door

bam-bam

Jaker wrote:

I intend on welding it cleanly and properly once I've removed the door. I suspect that I'll manage to get things prepped sufficiently well that the weld will hold.

I didn't mean to imply that you couldn't do it, I've seen your work and am impressed.

I'll have to cut into one sometime to see what's in there. It just feels like there's more leverage exerted than a weld that close to the pivot can hold.

WagonWhirled

this is how I fixed mine:

I used a stainless steel plate item # SH-0200 from here:

http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/tubing.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I cut and bent the ss plate to fit and used two 1/4" size rivets to mount it.

works great now..no noise, it moves just a tiny bit but I wedged 2 stainless steel screws in there to prevent that.


while I was at it I ordered stainless steel 6mm flanged bolts to replace everyone under the hood.

http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/metric/ ... c_hex.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

coleco

pretty smart fix.
I never thought of adding a piece to fix it.

I like the rivets.
if you made the stainless more of a wedge shape you could put 2 rivets top and bottom to avoid the movement.
You have inspired me to use the metal breaks at my old mans hvac shop to fix mine.
Thanks for posting that.

WagonWhirled

hey you're welcome

it was difficult drilling the rivet holes through the plate so I only made the 2 required holes to mount it with. perhaps I can still drill a hole and add another rivet to the bottom part as there is room for it. it just may be enough to prevent any movement without the screws.

thx for the tip!

ps I only wanted stainless steel to avoid any rust issues in the future. after scouring the web this plate was the best that I could come up with at a reasonable price and so had to work with it. I'm satisfied with the end result and it even looks somewhat of a clean fix!

Marc_EE9

i have exactly the same problem.
they hold the doors open and stop them swinging shut

it happens when you door is used excesively, or the door is pushed opened too far, too many times.

i may get mine just spot welded back on. they are welded to the inside skin

WagonWhirled

door hinge revisited:

I added another 1/4" rivet to the bottom piece and that was enough to stop the whole thing from moving completely!
it is rock solid now.

note that the bottom piece is mounted a bit crooked leaning to the right. that's on purpose to push the pin further to the right(towards inside of the car) restricting it's movement. I'm very pleased with it. I also dabbed a little silver por-15 on the surface rust that formed where I previously had the ss screws.

Marc_EE9

^ sorry but you wouldnt catch me doing that, just looks too messy for my liking.

good fix though 8)

judebert

Much cleaner than the screws. I like your solution.

noahrexion

So for you welders that is something that you can do very easily. This is something that plagues lots of this generation (2 older Si hatches had the same problem). Instead of making a bracket or rewelding what is already there (I tried that route first); you basically just dig into your scrap pile and yank a few pieces of filler to act as a base for the unibody and hinge portion that is inside. Both are very thin gauge and your welder better be able to weld thin stuff cause the mix of the thick plate and thin body don't mix well. Use a thin piece to fill and just weld a solid square a and spray a few coats of color on it, done.
10x more solid than the factory setup and no need to do anything else. You can even make it pretty before you paint so it doesn't make your eye squint every time you look at it.

Madwick

i've dealt with a few hondas in my day and most of the ef civics have this. sedan coupe hatchback and wagons! all have this problem on the driver door. it makes it quite inconvenient when trying to work on the car and the door wont stay open. now that i own one myself ill be attempting to fix this. ill try and do a write up on this after i gather some materials for the fix.

ommarc44

back from the dead! any updates on other options to remedy this?

WagonWhirled

just reuploaded pix..still going strong

mtbikerTi

When I bought mine it was like that, I wire brushed it and welded it back on. That was in 2007 and it's still fine with no cracking. It wasn't hard and didn't take long, but you've got to have a welder (or a friend with one).