Cheap ebay camber kits

oxbeard

i got some of those cheap noname upper control arm camber kits on ebay. well... the name on the arm says BBP.
put them on today. the shits stick out too far and hit the edge of the frame on every bump at STOCK HEIGHT!

i wonder if i got the wrong part or if this brand just sucks that bad.
anyone have experience with these? ive seen some people with some that look like mine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-1991-HONDA-CIVIC-CRX-FRONT-UPPER-CAMBER-KIT-ARM-90-/160448873554?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255b7f8452#ht_3530wt_1165

on another note... i had to redo my power steering upgrade...
while turning the steering wheel with the car running to run the fluid through the system i noticed the wheels were spinning even without the car being in gear.
they would only stop when i pushed in the clutch.
Is this normal??

OH and one more thing... if you accidentally pull the cv joint out of socket is it fucked? lol
because i did this...

Alphaxomega

lol wierd i have some no brand aswell from a local jdm shop. on my lowered car they sit good. adjust them closer or father away?
you have camber on stock height? or why did you do this?

oxbeard

ah i am at stock height now. i plan on lowering later when i get new wheels. i went ahead and put these on because they came with ball joints, mine were bad.
if you look at the link, you can see in the picture that the metal sticks out the same no matter where the ball joint is.
i emailed the company about it but its past their return period...

nominous

CV should be fine. Inner yeah not outer?
The fricion of the oil between the gears will cause the wheels to move with no load. It's normal.

I suppose you have them fitted to the car now, but it would be extremely useful to see a stock one fliped upside down, on top of it and lots of pictures and measurements taken.
If it's hitting then it's too long and that's weird becasue it would have come out at the design stage (least you'd think so) unless the inside of a shuttle wing is much closer to the arm than a sedan, hatch or crx ??

oxbeard

yea it was inner cv. the right side barely moves at all in gear. but the entire shaft doesnt move. is this because theres no load on the wheels? the right side has a busted boot anyway.

good to know about the wheels moving with it out of gear. it didnt seem normal to me

i can get pictures of how the control arms sit now. and the scratches and dents in them already from driving once to work.

today on my way home from work one of the bolts came out from the sway bar mount... haha and it fell off.
i swear i tightened that thing down... o well

maybe i can take better pics when i fix that

oxbeard

here are some pics
left

right


you can see where its hitting the top with the damaged fender lining

Alphaxomega

mine hits the fender too but it cushions out after. not much of a problem for me.
i just hit it with a hammer you cant tell. idk why those dam things are so long. >:(

turbo_teg

so would u say buy them but yer gunna have to do some bangin and maybe some bendin....

nominous

Thanks for the pics. Really wierd that they've given you room to make the camber problem even worse!
The sliding plate ball joint must just come out quite far so they've had to extend it.
Makes you wonder WTF they tested these (assuming they did) on as a lad here is saying the same thing for a CRX fitment.

Skunk2 ones which are a very similar design do not have the problem.

There were some custom ones made here for a few sets which used a TRE style link you had to screw in and out to adjust, so no chance of it coming loose like these ones or skunk2's.

oxbeard

eh TRE? lol idk what that is?
<-n00b sry
i saw someone on here selling some rear lcas that were threaded for camber adjustment. seems to me thats the way to go. with the wheels im planning i dont want them sticking out more. id rather set the lcas in a little bit to correct it.

nominous

TRE = track rod end.
You probably call them something different over there no doubt.
The end of teh steering rack with the ball joint on it.
Please enlighten me. Another one to add to my US car vocabulary

hood = bonnet
truck = boot
rocker panels = sills
fender = wing
and so on!!

oxbeard

Tie rod end is what its called here... i guess i still should have gotten it. ha
i was thrown off. wasnt thinking in that area because it doesnt have to do with camber. but yea that style.

3rd4ce

ok guys ive been searching and got a migraine

i need some help ....
Scrappy is down ... i was searching ebay for parts and came back here to read up on different lower costing stuff ...

i sit higher not lower .....
this is a pick of my fenderwell


whats the chance it can hit the same spot on Scrappy as it did for OXBEARD..????
upper ball joint fell apart as it was removed i was told and the bushings r shot ... so buying an upper control arm with all is my best bet and probably cheaper

I think.....

but now its time for POSITIVE help....

No B.S. is wanted so keep all stupid comments to urselves

tracked wagon

If you ar'nt experiencing premature wear due to your care being taller I would just replace the ball joints with oe quality. With the miles of use your car has you can figure on it at some point. I've hade to replace several uppers and lowers over the years. Front wheel berrings can be an issue too! Be sure to give the wheel a good tug and feel for clunking. It just part of the civic game. If for some reason they don't last long after you replace them then I would start looking into why.

503Wagon

oxbeard wrote:

i saw someone on here selling some rear lcas that were threaded for camber adjustment. seems to me thats the way to go. with the wheels im planning i dont want them sticking out more. id rather set the lcas in a little bit to correct it.

THIS!!!!! where can i find a set of these?!?!?!?

as per chip's post....what are your cost differences between a set of skunk2 adjustable upper control arms and a blah set of non adjustable upper control arms? I'd say yours are just worn out due to the amount of miles on the chassis its self, not so much due to the lifting of the wagon. I have had my lift for like 5k in miles and i have not had an issue with my uppers yet, i've even had them apart numerous times doing several installs of other stuff.

Now my outer tierod ends are fucking hammered. both sides infact. I'm not sure if its due to the lift or due to the age of them....i plan on getting vatozone replacements and seeing how long they last...if they die again soon i'll look into something upgraded and or just make my own....

bam-bam

Chip, just buy the OE style replacement upper arms. You don't need camber adjustment (I don't think?).
With your lifted stance I don't see you hitting the inner fender, but if you put bigger tires on you may hit the inner sidewall. That's one of the factors I looked at when ordering my wheels and tires.

NOBLE0N3WAGON

there on the wrong side from what i can see my skunk 2 camber arms bow the opposite way

3rd4ce

ok gang seems most of the knowledgeable guys that have replied have me steering to simply replace:


lower inner bushing #8
lower outer bushing #11
stabilizer bushing #9
sway bar bushing #4
end link #14/15



upper ball joint
upper bushings #12
lower ball joint #9




outer tie rod end #19 &17
inner tie rod end #13

rbwdriven

Chip you are correct in your guessing.

Look at rockauto.

You might save some money.

3rd4ce

rbwdriven wrote:

Chip you are correct in your guessing.

Look at rockauto.

You might save some money.

rbwdriven..
u guys might not b all older than me but U all have much more knowledge ...
so im listening and learning ....
comparing prices so i can order this stuff and get Scrappy back on the road...