+++SiWagon TIP: Keep that Tranny.PLUS Tips & Specs.
SiWagon
Council Member
From time to time I may update this topic Check RED hi-lites for latest updates.Last update 5/12/11.
That tranny in the wagon is a Hi-po tranny.When I first bought my wagon.It pulled harder than my EF hatch.I thought it had a stronger motor. N:( T! It's actually geared better than the EF(civic) DX hatch,but not better than the CRX(ED) Si.It's about in the middle.The higher the #,the harder it pulls(& FASTER 1/4 mile ET's).
HF__________________________3.25(Calif,USDM) & 2.95(49-state)(for you hypermilers)
EF,CRX DX & ZC________________3.88 Final drive
EE(wagon)&EX(sdn)(thx.Davens)___4.058
CRX SI________________________4.25
Keep that Wagon tranny .It's a g
d compromise.If you want max power put in a Si(pulls better than a ZC) tranny.The wagon tranny can be installed in any 88-91 USDM Civic or CRX.
For MAX MPG:Put in the 88+ CRX HF tranny.It'll bump up the mileage as high as 10 more miles per gallon.Here's the funny part.You'll hit 50 MPH in 1st.236 MPH in 5th if you've got the power and no wind drag.,but your acceleration will suck big time. :roll:
4WD:A 3 MPG increase if in 2WD mode.That's like a EXTRA gallon(aprox. 4 litre) of petrol per tank for long highway road trips.
Tips apply to all.Some specs here refers to USDM Wagons.I don't have other country data,but will input them if some1 tells me.
Other tips & info:
Year of L3 tranny:Look at the input shaft.At the tip is a smaller diameter shaft(for the pilot brg.).Count the groove(s) around the shaft
(not splines that's the next paragraph).
Groove(s):
'88_____NONE
'89_____1
'90-91___2
Input shaft spline Count (all Wagons).
'88_____21
'89-'91__20
Flywheel & Pressure plate mm diameter:
'88-'89_____200
'90-91_____ 210
Axle Shafts:
2WD are the same axles as the following Civics:
DX('88-'91),Si('89-'91)&CRX Si('88-'89),CRX DX ('88-'91).
Spline Count____In_________Out
_______2WD___25(1.03")___26(1.06")
_______4WD___27(1.09")___26(1.06")
BallJoint:You're probably wondering why this is in here....'cuz....since the ball joints out.One more BIG TIP :get a plastic syringe (boat shop,hobby shop or hardware store).While the ball joints are out inject grease into the ball joints .Now I don't need to worry about it for the next 100k.
Oil:
2WD:Between 1.8-2 (litres or quarts).4WD:Between 2.3-2.54(litres or quarts).
Use Honda MTL 'cuz it shifts SMOOOoooTHER (than regular
oil) & is what Honda currently uses.
10w30(or40)SE or SF grade oil was recommended by Honda some 20 years ago. :roll:
Honda recommends replacing it every 30,000 miles.
LSD
A)OBX LSD.It's a well built LSD believe it or not,BUT you'll need a
'88-89 Si(orEX) tranny.And it's half the price of other LSD's.
B)4WD:There's a JDM LSD,but it's for the rear.Click:+++SiWagon FYI: '88-91('96)JDM Wagon Options & PARTS.
C) :!: Very Important!Make sure you upgrade your spare tire to the
same height as the front wheel unless you want to destroy the LSD.
The 2nd choice is when you get a flat.Put the spare on the
rear.Take the rear wheel & replace the bad tire in front.This will NOT work if your rear tire is NOT the same height as the front's.
Magnetic oil plug: Don't need it.There's already a magnet inside the tranny(aprox.19mmx38mm).
Shifter:Get Short shifter from Ebay(less than $20)It's aluminum too.I've even cut & rethread them for friends for a even faster shift.
TO bearing
'85-'91(3rd & 4th gen) 4WD Wgn are the same.Part# 22810-ph8-008
2WD are same as all EF Civic's(Si's & CRX's too) # 22810-PL3-005
AUTOMATIC GEARBOXES:
Honda( & most all A/T except American A/T)are not very strong from a performance standpoint.
Oil:
Dextron II.Make sure you change it every 30,000 miles(48,000km).if you want it to last.I'd recommend a race ATF(like B&M).They're formulated to shift firmer & run cooler.Some may not like the firmer shift.All you need is about 2.5 quarts(about 2.4 litres)
Oil Cooler:
Must have :!: 98% of A/T falures are heat related.
Oil Level:
Honda uses a different way of checking oil.Never go over the HI level or below the LOW level.Doing so will cause the A/T is shift wrong.Oil check steps:
1)level ground.Turn engine off.
2)Within 1 minute pull the dipstik out.Wipe.Put it back in all the way.
3)Pull it back out.The fluid should be between the two marks.
SWAP:If you want to stay with a A/T.If possible swap in a Honda DelSol A/T.It's the BEST :twisted: A/T i've driven in the less than 200hp class.Drives like a stik.Down shifts NOW.Has a overdrive.
Tranny gear ratio calulator:
http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/revs.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
'88-'91 Civic Shop Manual:
http://hondatech.info/search/88/civic//manual/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Also maybe helpful 'cuz It contains Factory info on the 1.6 litre DOHC(D16a8&9).
:arrow: Factory schematics on the CRX power windows( for you peeps that are doing pwr window conversions),Heated Seats,Headlite warning systems,rear Foglite & Daytime Running Lites.
That tranny in the wagon is a Hi-po tranny.When I first bought my wagon.It pulled harder than my EF hatch.I thought it had a stronger motor. N:( T! It's actually geared better than the EF(civic) DX hatch,but not better than the CRX(ED) Si.It's about in the middle.The higher the #,the harder it pulls(& FASTER 1/4 mile ET's).
HF__________________________3.25(Calif,USDM) & 2.95(49-state)(for you hypermilers)
EF,CRX DX & ZC________________3.88 Final drive
EE(wagon)&EX(sdn)(thx.Davens)___4.058
CRX SI________________________4.25
Keep that Wagon tranny .It's a g
d compromise.If you want max power put in a Si(pulls better than a ZC) tranny.The wagon tranny can be installed in any 88-91 USDM Civic or CRX.For MAX MPG:Put in the 88+ CRX HF tranny.It'll bump up the mileage as high as 10 more miles per gallon.Here's the funny part.You'll hit 50 MPH in 1st.236 MPH in 5th if you've got the power and no wind drag.,but your acceleration will suck big time. :roll:
4WD:A 3 MPG increase if in 2WD mode.That's like a EXTRA gallon(aprox. 4 litre) of petrol per tank for long highway road trips.
Tips apply to all.Some specs here refers to USDM Wagons.I don't have other country data,but will input them if some1 tells me.
Other tips & info:
Year of L3 tranny:Look at the input shaft.At the tip is a smaller diameter shaft(for the pilot brg.).Count the groove(s) around the shaft
(not splines that's the next paragraph).
Groove(s):
'88_____NONE
'89_____1
'90-91___2
Input shaft spline Count (all Wagons).
'88_____21
'89-'91__20
Flywheel & Pressure plate mm diameter:
'88-'89_____200
'90-91_____ 210
Axle Shafts:
2WD are the same axles as the following Civics:
DX('88-'91),Si('89-'91)&CRX Si('88-'89),CRX DX ('88-'91).
Spline Count____In_________Out
_______2WD___25(1.03")___26(1.06")
_______4WD___27(1.09")___26(1.06")
BallJoint:You're probably wondering why this is in here....'cuz....since the ball joints out.One more BIG TIP :get a plastic syringe (boat shop,hobby shop or hardware store).While the ball joints are out inject grease into the ball joints .Now I don't need to worry about it for the next 100k.
Oil:
2WD:Between 1.8-2 (litres or quarts).4WD:Between 2.3-2.54(litres or quarts).
Use Honda MTL 'cuz it shifts SMOOOoooTHER (than regular
oil) & is what Honda currently uses.
10w30(or40)SE or SF grade oil was recommended by Honda some 20 years ago. :roll:
Honda recommends replacing it every 30,000 miles.
LSD
A)OBX LSD.It's a well built LSD believe it or not,BUT you'll need a
'88-89 Si(orEX) tranny.And it's half the price of other LSD's.
B)4WD:There's a JDM LSD,but it's for the rear.Click:+++SiWagon FYI: '88-91('96)JDM Wagon Options & PARTS.
C) :!: Very Important!Make sure you upgrade your spare tire to the
same height as the front wheel unless you want to destroy the LSD.
The 2nd choice is when you get a flat.Put the spare on the
rear.Take the rear wheel & replace the bad tire in front.This will NOT work if your rear tire is NOT the same height as the front's.
Magnetic oil plug: Don't need it.There's already a magnet inside the tranny(aprox.19mmx38mm).
Shifter:Get Short shifter from Ebay(less than $20)It's aluminum too.I've even cut & rethread them for friends for a even faster shift.
TO bearing
'85-'91(3rd & 4th gen) 4WD Wgn are the same.Part# 22810-ph8-008
2WD are same as all EF Civic's(Si's & CRX's too) # 22810-PL3-005
AUTOMATIC GEARBOXES:
Honda( & most all A/T except American A/T)are not very strong from a performance standpoint.
Oil:
Dextron II.Make sure you change it every 30,000 miles(48,000km).if you want it to last.I'd recommend a race ATF(like B&M).They're formulated to shift firmer & run cooler.Some may not like the firmer shift.All you need is about 2.5 quarts(about 2.4 litres)
Oil Cooler:
Must have :!: 98% of A/T falures are heat related.
Oil Level:
Honda uses a different way of checking oil.Never go over the HI level or below the LOW level.Doing so will cause the A/T is shift wrong.Oil check steps:
1)level ground.Turn engine off.
2)Within 1 minute pull the dipstik out.Wipe.Put it back in all the way.
3)Pull it back out.The fluid should be between the two marks.
SWAP:If you want to stay with a A/T.If possible swap in a Honda DelSol A/T.It's the BEST :twisted: A/T i've driven in the less than 200hp class.Drives like a stik.Down shifts NOW.Has a overdrive.
Tranny gear ratio calulator:
http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/revs.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
'88-'91 Civic Shop Manual:
http://hondatech.info/search/88/civic//manual/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Also maybe helpful 'cuz It contains Factory info on the 1.6 litre DOHC(D16a8&9).
:arrow: Factory schematics on the CRX power windows( for you peeps that are doing pwr window conversions),Heated Seats,Headlite warning systems,rear Foglite & Daytime Running Lites.
Comments
I don't have a 88-91 wagon Helms to look it up, but I seem to recall this being the case.
And the 90-91 Civic EX Sedan is also a 4.05, if I'm not mistaken.
agreed, Davens had setup some hybrid zc 1-4 geared trannys with the 4.25 final drive, ala effin motor works?
I have the gear breakdowns some where...damn
good pickup Si wagon
We actually bought that because of the 4.4 final drive and intermediate shaft.
We hoped that the 4.4 could be paired with the ZC gears for a "Super" hybrid but it didn't fit.
We also were able to dispel some of the rumors that the wagon intermediate shaft was a direct replacement for the ZC int shaft. Close, but just off enough that it didn't work.
On the JDM model they are identical, i have one from an EF7 CRX (DOHC ZC) and one from an EF5 Shuttle RTi (SOHC ZC)...
Close, but the myth perpetuated on Honda-Tech et al was that the usdm wagon int shaft was 100% interchangeable with the jdm zc int shaft. This is not the case.
my dad was wondering if it was possible to swap in the entire ring and pinion of the Si final drive into a DX housing?
i hope this works out. i think if it does...i might be going manual! man this will be great. i've been wanting to drive standard since i got the wagon. now maybe i can hit up those autox events. only time i drive standard is when i drive my dad's car on the weekends.
:twisted: For Kick*SS AutoX times put in a LSD & 4.71 gears(I think that was the gearing.).The LSD will knock 1-2 Seconds off a 1minute run.The combo works for the 1320 too.I've built several AutoX National Champ cars.
I just swapped mine today. 100% identical and operational. Maybe the JDM EF5 uses the EF7 int shaft from factory? That would explain why mine is the same.
Drive slower
Atleast you found my old webpage.
BTW 1988 DX has a 3.722 FD, not 3.89.
i just bought the wagon and the guy said he replaced the clutch but i think he did something wrong
you were right on the money!!!! it couldnt be the clutch bracket since it seems somebody went at it with self tapping screws and a welding job, i adjusted the clutch cable but i cant seem to get it right if i tighten it too much the clutch isnt fully engaging and the rpms jump(kinda like having your foot still on the clutch while your already driving in gear) but if i give the cable just a little bit more slack it does the whole F U im not gunna go into gear today!
It still sounds to me like the pedal pivot is allowing a lot of flex, and not pushing the clutch sufficiently to disengage. That behaviour is exactly like what I was experiencing with my Wagon when I 1st got it. Once I changed the pedal assembly, it was perfect.
I agree. Try to look at the pivot while someone operates the clutch- maybe with a mirror? The total travel of the clutch cable isn't very long in ideal conditions, it doesn't take much deflection of the bracket to seriously affect clutch engagement.
1)Throttle cable is too short OR out of adjustment.
2)2nd clutch pack is bad.
Late shift could also be (Governor ,throttle A &/or modulator) valve stuck.
:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: Sorry that's for 2WD.Looks like yours might be a 4WD AT .
You might be in luck.There's a Self-diagnosis module that you can read the "blinks" like the ECU.Count the blinks.Read the chart.Know the prob.
:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: Your best investment is to buy a Helms Wagon shop manual that will cover the 2& 4WD trannies.