power windows... quick and dirty

I found 4d civic with a set of power windows for a good price in a local junkyard. My front window winders need a overhaul bad so I was thinking about going power.
I found a writeup on doing a full swap. Way to much work, and I think the person that did the writeup even said that they wouldn't go through the trouble again.

I'd like to just do the two front windows. I don't really even care if I can't control the passanger window from the driver side (I'm tall... reaching across isn't a problem :D .
Could this be done easily enough. Is it as easy as just running power to each window, and then wiring the switches in?

If so I figure I'll just grab one of the control switches from the rear along with the passanger one.
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Comments

  • vtecn8ivevtecn8ive Senior Wagonist
    I did the write-up.

    If you are just doing the front two windows you should be able to do exactly what you are saying. I believe the front window has 5 wires going to the motor (2 are for auto-down I believe). So just leave those two wires alone on the motor. Then you'll just need to run 3-wires from each door, two fuses tapped into the power source and call it good. Easier route, but if I were going through the hassle I would do all 4, just because I'm not lazy :lol:

    To answer your question yes.
  • vtecn8ive wrote:
    I did the write-up.


    It was your writeup that made me think that mabey I didn't wanna mess with the swap :D .

    I'm going to grab the complete set-up out of the junkyard. And sooner or later I may do the full setup. I just really need to get the fronts working better for now. My 6yr old son is with me a lot. He has a lot of troubles with the worn out winder mechanisms!
  • picked up a set of front power window units.
    I grabbed the front handles and bezels. I think the built in switch is intended to run the power locks. Anybody know any reason why that switch wouldn't work to run the windows?
    Not interested in power locks. Would have got all four power window setups but one of the rears was missing.
  • vtecn8ivevtecn8ive Senior Wagonist
    Not sure what you are getting at.
  • power windows...

    with the ignition key in the "II" position and the main switch on,
    all the door windows can be operated by the switches.
    even if the main switch is off, the driver's window is operable alone...

    the driver's window keeps moving up or down by pushing the switch
    past the first stop...


    caution: always keep the main switch in the off position when children
    are in the car; injury may result from unintentional window operation...

    no?
    :mrgreen:
  • vtecn8ive wrote:
    Not sure what you are getting at.
    guess I wasn't very clear...

    In the car that I got the parts from the large switch that you can control all four windows with was gone. There were no individual switches for each window in the car either.
    So I got the front power units, the front door handles and matching bezels. The door handles have a lock switch built in. I figure it's a two way switch.
    I'm wondering if there is any reason why I can't just wire the lock switches to control the windows. That way i've got a nice clean simple install.
  • if you can do the work...
    do the job...

    i already ordered...
    maybe a pizza
    too this time...

    : )
  • oilspotoilspot Wagonist
    Been a while since i thought about this. But now I'm driving my wagon daily and having to roll the windows up and down. Holy crap my window regulators are shot! It's a royal pain to put the windows up and down.

    Ive got the power window units (driver and passenger) out of an 89 4 door. I'm going to use some universal switches something like this.
    http://www.customstreetdesigns.com/163-33040160.htm

    So i look at the wiring on both assemblies. The drivers has 4 wires, the passenger has 2.
    Am i right to assume that put power to one wire and the window goes up, power to the other and the window goes down? Does the whole assembly just ground through the bolts to the body (no actual ground wire).

    I also assume that the extra wires on the drivers are for auto (all the way up or down).

    If anybody has a good grasp on how these work let me know.


    Both windows will be wired separately, simply. I'm about 6'4" so reaching over to hit the button for the passenger is no problem.
    I don't sit in the back seat, and i don't feel bad leaving anybody back there to manually roll their window up or down. :D
  • MrLewayneMrLewayne Wagonist
    Just do the whole thing!
  • oilspotoilspot Wagonist
    MrLewayne wrote:
    Just do the whole thing!

    Don't have the rear window motors, switches, master switch.
    I read a how to. If i remember the writer even said if he had it to do all over again that it was a huge pain in the ass.
    I need to be able to throw the front windows up and down quick a few times a day. that's the reason I'm only gonna do them!
  • no gorillA grips for this job, that's for sure...

    :mrgreen:
  • oilspotoilspot Wagonist
    no gorillA grips for this job, that's for sure...

    :mrgreen:

    ?
  • 3rd4ce3rd4ce Council Member
    oilspot wrote:
    no gorillA grips for this job, that's for sure...

    :mrgreen:

    ?

    I dont get the gorilla either....

    have you started on your power window install..???
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    i got the gorilla lol..

    ..instead of doing PW, how about just replace the busted window regulators? when functioning properly, the go up and down super easy
  • oilspotoilspot Wagonist
    wagodizzle wrote:
    i got the gorilla lol..

    But why reply in some gibberish coded crap!
    It's got a hondatech flavor to it!!! If you don't like my idea, I don't mind if you say so, or just don't say anything at all!

    It's that kinda shit that makes a person not wanna come back!
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    damn whats with these people these days. do i need to explain it? Gorilla grip = a powerful grip needed to roll up a window with a busted regulator. there, code decoded :roll:

    and i have no problem with your idea, you do what you want. it just seems, to me, that if you are going through all this work just for one or two windows, you may as well just replace the one broken one with the same thing. thats all, there were no judgmental motives behind me saying anything.. certainly not what you took as this:
    oilspot wrote:
    It's that kinda shit that makes a person not wanna come back!

    peeps just need to chill :mrgreen:
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I figured Gorilla Grips+ Vise-Grip (pliers)...?

    oilspot: In my experience the 2 main wires on a window motor are just reversed in polarity to change the direction of the motor. I haven't messed with Honda power windows, though.
  • oilspotoilspot Wagonist
    wagodizzle wrote:

    peeps just need to chill :mrgreen:

    I prob do. maybe I just took that wrong.

    sorry about that! This has been one of the most mature best flowing forums that I've found.
  • 3rd4ce3rd4ce Council Member
    bam-bam wrote:
    oilspot: In my experience the 2 main wires on a window motor are just reversed in polarity to change the direction of the motor. I haven't messed with Honda power windows, though.
    Yes sir reverse polarity it is .. 264.jpg
    im hoping someone can tell me what the other wires are on the drivers door & how they should be wired.. 265.jpg
  • Old SkoolOld Skool Council Member
    The other 2 wires are for the built in limit switches for the auto mode.. if your not using a original switch, no need to connect them to anything.
  • 3rd4ce3rd4ce Council Member
    Thanx Old School for that info..
    my problem is Im attempting to find a way i could mod up some relays to make the auto up work for "oilspot" without having the motors n hand to test my work..
    Wondering if they would be kinda reverse polarity but with a timer or stop @ top or bottom sensor... :?:

    :idea: I plan on getting the locks and window motors and switches all out of the same car if possible so mine should just be kinda plug`n`play after i add juice to the drivers door..
    but i need time :roll: to get out to the Honda\Acura junk yard over in Maryland....
  • Old SkoolOld Skool Council Member
    Ya much easier with oem switches.. I hit the wrecker and got oem motors and switches from a 89 sedan and I'm going to put them in the 89 rt when I have a chance, the only downside is that the switch and covers are brown and the rt is gray :( There was somebody on here selling a complete setup.. you should look into that..
  • oilspotoilspot Wagonist
    3rd4ce wrote:

    the Honda\Acura junk yard over in Maryland....

    That must be nice!!! I'm clibing over ford aerostars to find the little bits of honda stuff that the wreckers have around here.

    thanks for the hand with this stuff!!! I've been reading around over on the12volt.com. Lots of good shit there for sure.
  • 3rd4ce3rd4ce Council Member
    man ive been on that site for years....
    :idea: but ive also been doing my own wiring and relays for about 25 years also... :!:
    getting shocked is the fun part :lol:
  • oilspot wrote:
    wagodizzle wrote:
    i got the gorilla lol..

    But why reply in some gibberish coded crap!
    It's got a hondatech flavor to it!!! If you don't like my idea, I don't mind if you say so, or just don't say anything at all!

    It's that kinda shit that makes a person not wanna come back!

    This is an INTERNATIONAL forum remember? Not EVERYBODY is from the USA, maybe type in all caps "I ONLY SPEAK ENGLISH," like most Americans do over here in Europe. I also have met the guy and he has never once had anything bad to say on this forum.
  • So for anyone still a little confused as to how this is done I did this on my 2000 civic the dirty way last summer. Used two double pole double throw switches from home depot some wire and two junk yard power window regulators. Reversing polarity is correct for how to control the window modules. Heres what I did for wiring:
    1) figure out a good spot to put your switches. I went with on the dash to the left of the steering wheel where there was two open slots. Only problem is passenger has to request to have their window opened.
    2) find a good 12v power source you like. I used the battery power source off the fuse box and then just put a fuse holder in line so I didn't fry motors or wire and could run the windows even if the keys weren't in the ignition
    3) run power and ground to one side of your dpdt switches
    4) make jumper wires and cross your power and ground across the switches. So outside terminals will both be powered but opposite eachother.
    5) connect your wires for your window to the center of the switch and run out to the regulators
    6) splice the wires from the switch into the two wires off the regulator. Not sure what the color scheme is used for the 4 wire motor but find a schematic and figure out which two are power and ground and use those and ignore the other two.
    7)if you used momentary switches hold them up to go up down to go down (unless you got your wires backwards than flip your switch over or reverser your wires on the back). If you couldn't find momentary and use on/off/on switches like me switch them on til the hit the top/bottom but don't forget to turn them off or you risk frying your motors or a dead battery at the very least. And don't let anyone else drive your car...they are guaranteed to leave the switches in the up or down position and drain your battery...

    It's definitely not the pretty way to do it but I needed my window fixed and fast and all I could find was power regulators in the yards. It's a beater dd car anyways...
  • Radio shack sells a DPDT momentary switch. I used four of theses to fix the window controls on my buddy's Rodeo. They'd work great for one of these quick and dirty deals.

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062530
  • yeah...that would definitely be the good way to go. I started with the non momentary switch because thats what home depot had and radio shack wasn't open. I intended to switch them out down the road but I kinda liked having the auto up and auto down feature so I never did.
  • sorry for what might be a noob Q (and it's been a while since I was on here), but on my '88 I found an online source for new OEM power window motor assemblies @ $80 each. since I currently only have manual window regulators, will the bolt holes for the power motor assembly line up with the six OEM hand crank regulator bolt holes?

    from what I read on this post and a couple of others, I'm pretty sure I can handle the wiring, fusing arangement and all, just needed to know if it will all fit w/o any hassle of re-engineering sh*t inside the door.

    any advice is helpful...

    thanks,
    ...jm.
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    bolts and everything should (and will, if done correctly) line up. these cars were available with Power options in other markets, afterall =)
    if and when you do the wirin, PLEASE do a detailed write up so electrical dumbies like me can do it as well :mrgreen:
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