Other audio enthusiasts... What do I do about my loud roof?

I put my subs in today. Very clean, very exact, safe, breakers (instead of fuses), etc... I was so happy when I got it all installed... Until I went out to tune my amp.

Not even half way up on the volume, my roof rattles like crazy.
My head liner is in mint condition... I guess it's vibrating against my headliner some how?

If I turn my volume way up, the vibrating is deafening. I mean, it's not a weak set up in any means... But I'd like to lessen the vibrating in some way or form (at least when I don't have it turned way up).

What would you do? Or what have you guys done?

(Figured I'd post here seeing how the vibrating is at cause of my electronics)

Comments

  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I've had to re-glue the roof skin to the roof bows on 3 different wagons, it's a common problem. I don't have big audio, but I would get the roof flexing and 'popping' at highway speeds. Since you have to remove the headliner to do this anyway, I would suggest gluing foam board (like cyanurate house sheathing) to the roof skin between the frame bows.

    Also: the headliner board just kind of lays up there. If it's the board itself rattling (i.e. not the sheetmetal) you might want to add some fasteners.
  • Old SkoolOld Skool Council Member
    Bam is correct :) in mine the roof will flex about 1/4" :( I need to pull the headliner and reglue the roof strips and then dynamat the inner skin..
  • chriswfchriswf Band Wagon
    bam-bam wrote:
    I've had to re-glue the roof skin to the roof bows on 3 different wagons, it's a common problem. I don't have big audio, but I would get the roof flexing and 'popping' at highway speeds. Since you have to remove the headliner to do this anyway, I would suggest gluing foam board (like cyanurate house sheathing) to the roof skin between the frame bows.

    Also: the headliner board just kind of lays up there. If it's the board itself rattling (i.e. not the sheetmetal) you might want to add some fasteners.

    Ohhhhhh... So it's roof, board, then the headliner its self?

    Okay, I'll take a look at it. Thanks!
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I'm sorry, by "board" I meant the headliner itself.
  • chriswfchriswf Band Wagon
    bam-bam wrote:
    I'm sorry, by "board" I meant the headliner itself.

    Oh okay, even better. Just 1 piece to worry about then :)

    I went to home depot today, I found some thin orange foam sheets... I might use those some how.

    Also today I was at work, and went to the dumpster and saw stacks of wood flooring. Tons of it. I wanted to get a wood steering wheel and I thought it'd be cool to match parts of my car with all of this laminate/hardwood flooring on the ground by the dumpster (sub box, trim, whatever I could make).

    It was brand new. Was still in closed boxes. It in perfect condition.
    It was also gone when I drove my wagon around back after work......

    Well thanks for the help, I might buy those foam sheets. Seems far more cost efficient than dynomat.
  • first off... breakers FTL, once they have been tripped a few times they are setting themselves up for failure...


    also, why not glue your roof bows back to the roof skin then actually use a real sound deadening material?


    there are a few affordable options, the best option for those on a budget is RAMMat IMO... its still butyl based but very cheap compared to the next best competitor
  • chriswfchriswf Band Wagon
    first off... breakers FTL, once they have been tripped a few times they are setting themselves up for failure...


    also, why not glue your roof bows back to the roof skin then actually use a real sound deadening material?


    there are a few affordable options, the best option for those on a budget is RAMMat IMO... its still butyl based but very cheap compared to the next best competitor

    7$ for the 200A breakers. I use the power one as a switch.

    Lol, and today I went to a shop in Garland and bought 1/4 Dynaliner. They swore by it. So I paid 25$ to have their guy install it (while I looked at other products) - at the guarantee it will work... He installed it on the roof and gave me what was left of the roll.
    Didn't work much.
    So I only paid for the product.

    The noise is coming from the roof metal wobbling - not so much vibration... As we found out.
    So it's still making noise at a semi decent volume.

    I need to find a way to brace the roof good.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    As all three of us who responded have mentioned, you need to re-glue the roof skin to the bows.
  • FIND A WAY TO RE ATTACH THE OEM ROOF SUPPORTS!!!!


    and a breaker that will be tripped often is going to fail, this is common knowledge... they were not designed to be turned on and off all the time
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    and a breaker that will be tripped often is going to fail, this is common knowledge... they were not designed to be turned on and off all the time

    A properly designed circuit breaker will trip thousands of times without a single problem. I have no experience with 12v systems in that area. However i do know the shitty breakers you buy at auto stores which are not high grade ISO/IEEE certified fail very easily..
  • Haydz wrote:
    and a breaker that will be tripped often is going to fail, this is common knowledge... they were not designed to be turned on and off all the time

    A properly designed circuit breaker will trip thousands of times without a single problem. I have no experience with 12v systems in that area. However i do know the shitty breakers you buy at auto stores which are not high grade ISO/IEEE certified fail very easily..


    im aware of that... but find me a good ISO/IEE certified breaker for a mobile 12v application, and then show me the people who buy them ;)
  • bwagonbwagon Band Wagon
    I also had the noisy roof problem. I used a spray can of expanding foam sealant from Home Depot to fix it.
  • chriswfchriswf Band Wagon
    bwagon wrote:
    I also had the noisy roof problem. I used a spray can of expanding foam sealant from Home Depot to fix it.
    Yyeeessss :wink:
    I found another local wagonist, and we yapped on and on. He doesn't post in the forums, I invited him to... Don't know if he will or not. But he mentioned that's what he did (the foam trick).
    Used foam, then quickly put his liner back up. He said it's held over a year and a half. And he has a dark colored wagon (as do I) - so the heats not melting it away or anything.
    Just waiting for it to stop raining and get my tint problem fixed before I knock it out.

    As for the breaker deal - it hasn't tripped on me yet.
    200 amp fuses + 0 gauge kits meant to hold them run around 10-20$(inc. shipping). Replacement fuses can be pricey.
    The Stinger breakers were ~7$. Not a knockoff. From what I understand a true Stinger breaker is completely in line with the task it's given. Don't know much about the knockoffs though.
  • igorigor Band Wagon
    chriswf wrote:
    As for the breaker deal - it hasn't tripped on me yet.
    200 amp fuses + 0 gauge kits meant to hold them run around 10-20$(inc. shipping). Replacement fuses can be pricey.
    The Stinger breakers were ~7$. Not a knockoff. From what I understand a true Stinger breaker is completely in line with the task it's given. Don't know much about the knockoffs though.
    It's not that the breaker my nuisance trip, it's by using the breaker as a switch that will cause it to fail. The mechanisms in all the ones I've opened up have been very flimsy. ;)

    Have you done the foam thing yet? Did it work for you?
  • i need to know too my new sub is beating the crap out of my roof and back hatch and will bounce a soda bottle 3 inches of the roof.
  • chriswfchriswf Band Wagon
    igor wrote:
    chriswf wrote:
    As for the breaker deal - it hasn't tripped on me yet.
    200 amp fuses + 0 gauge kits meant to hold them run around 10-20$(inc. shipping). Replacement fuses can be pricey.
    The Stinger breakers were ~7$. Not a knockoff. From what I understand a true Stinger breaker is completely in line with the task it's given. Don't know much about the knockoffs though.
    It's not that the breaker my nuisance trip, it's by using the breaker as a switch that will cause it to fail. The mechanisms in all the ones I've opened up have been very flimsy. ;)

    Have you done the foam thing yet? Did it work for you?

    Yes, but there's still soo much vibration. Upon foaming my roof - I some how disabled my rear roof/dome light. Oh well though, I used it once I think...

    Anyway, now the quarter-panels between my doors vibrate against the roof. It's not near as bad though... Takes close to high on bass dial and high volume to get the most of the other parts to vibrate (I don't listen to it that loud, or not often at least).

    The sound on the outside is very solid now. I'm going to add a lid to my sub box, with 3 sides - with an opening pointing towards the front of the wagon, hopefully curving the air/sound towards me (and out my windows), and off my roof less.
    (ported box points up)

    But as far as the wobbly roof goes (and external unwanted noise), the foam trick worked.

    playingmilitary: I have no hatch noise. Maybe replace your rubber surrounding, or if your speakers are pointing towards the hatch, face them away.
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