D16A6... am I holding on too tight?

Dora LeeDora Lee Band Wagon
in Engine & Drivetrain
The saga continues....my 88 RT4WD needs a motor, block is warped. I really want to keep it stock with another D16a6 motor. I bought an 88 RT parts car. Mechanic says, "just put a B series into it, I can get you one tomorrow." What is wrong with me? I don't want a B series motor, I want a stock motor and I want my baby to stay as mod free/stock as possible. The D16A6 is hard to find. I can get a salvage one for $500. Still seems steep to me but is the cheapest one I can find. No mileage given. 90 day warranty.
Am I holding on too tight to my D series? :roll:

Comments

  • Tatty90EE4Tatty90EE4 Wagonist
    As soon as I get my swap done, when that will be I don't know, I'll have a D16a6 with 203k+ miles on it, but still runs strong.
  • Old SkoolOld Skool Council Member
    Hunt down a D series... might be time to find a new mechanic.. Sure he can get a B-series.. but what about all of the other parts to make it work.. mounts/wiring/transmission/shifter assy etc etc.. plus u loose your AWD.. you can always go with a D16z6... only minor mods.. or even a D15 and use your intake etc etc
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Sounds like you have 2 d16a6 cores, just rebuild one. You'll have a fresh stock OE engine that you KNOW is right.

    All the parts can be had for $500, including a reman head.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    If the current D16A6 block is warped then that will be the first d-series i have ever heard of that's actually warped the block and not the head.

    As has been said the b-series swap into an RT4WD wagon would not be as easy as your mechanic seems to think. You would need to acquire a CRV RT4WD tansmission and customise the driveshaft. I doubt you will want to go to this expense and trouble.

    Bam-bam is right on the money (as per), get your mechanic to check that the engine from the 'dud' RT4WD is suitable for a rebuild and go down the route. It will ensure many troublefree miles provided the work is done properly and the car is properly maintained.
  • The_HeadThe_Head familEE
    Ain't the SOHC ZC the JDM equivalent of the D16A6? Why not get one of those, they seem fairly cheap.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Sure but then you potentially run into the same problems with unknown engine condition. At least if you rebuild you know what the quality of the motor should be.
  • curtcurt Wagonist
    rebuild if you can or buy a jdm sohc zc like i did.
  • Dave-ODave-O Wagonist
    SOHC ZC - that's what I got my wagon with. It's curt's twin. :mrgreen:
  • debrisdebris Wagonist
    How much is it to recon your existing D16A6?
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    D16a6's aren't expensive to rebuild. I just rebuilt mine with p29 pistons and everything else stock for under $500 in parts. Everything runs like stock, but with the higher compression it has a little more pep. Plus now that my motor is completely new, I don't have to worry about it being a "used" one imported from japan and worry about the condition, etc etc. If you were closer I'd say bring it over and lets get it rebuilt. he he
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    stampern wrote:
    If you were closer I'd say bring it over and lets get it rebuilt. he he


    Me, too. Somebody in Portland help the lady out!
  • ragenasianragenasian Moderator
    Seems like you are in the wrong place :lol: because I too would help as I have a fully rebuilt D16A6 that isn't being used.

    I vote rebuild because the Japanese import motors are hit and miss.
  • Dora LeeDora Lee Band Wagon
    Ok. I tried to post last night but it didn't go up...Anyway, am pulling the parts car away from mechanic that wants me to put in a new/used d16b. He noted that the valve adjustment screws were tightened all the way down on those cylinders. That seemed odd to me, then he said adjusting them made no difference. Which also seemed odd.

    So, I looked over angie's list/car talk site and I found a guy who seems like he knows whats up. He says he can't believe the cylinder hole in original car is warped. He laughed about it saying it was pretty much impossible. I took the car to him for a look over and he thinks my original engine is probably fine (WTF!) but that the valves have been poorly adjusted and the timing may be off. He votes to rebuild if necessary but doesn't think it will be. Then he won me over by saying, "This is the best car Honda ever made! You are lucky to have it! It's worth keeping it nice!" Which is better than what other mechs have said which is, "Why bother? the car is 20 years old." Or "It should get you around another 10,000 miles or so." This whole deal is wearing my patience. I want one guy who really knows his job and the car he's looking at. Meanwhile, the parts car I bought looks like something some of you mid-westerners would be stoked to have and I'm planning to part it. Seems like a shame. Maybe it can be saved whole after all.
  • ragenasianragenasian Moderator
    Hopefully all goes well for you this time. it is hard sometimes to find good knowledgeable mechanics.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    The only time i've ever heard of Honda blocks being so called "warped" (and it's not even that) is when piston slap occurrs and the cylinder bores turn oval, i think that shit only happens when you push 400HP+ (or even much more, depends on build and parts quality). :o
  • theidealonetheidealone New Wagonist
    Glad you found a mechanic worth going to! I have been wanting to find the 6 speed conversion parts, so lemme know what you end up doing with that donor car! :)

    Good luck with your A6! I gotta find out whats wrong with mine now.
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    Ya, it sounds like you are probably just having valve issues from what you are describing on the donor motor. What symptoms are you seeing on your original motor?? Warped block will usually only blow head gaskets if you can get one to warp in the first place. Generally it's the head that warps from being over heated and you can find a decent head for under $100 easy. It sounds like your new mechanic knows a lot more about these cars than your first pick. Feel free to run stuff by us if you question it at all, we'll be more than willing to help.
  • BIOHAZARDBIOHAZARD Wagonist
    with the valves being improperly adjusted could cause the bad compression test. try readjusting them and do the compression test again to see what comes of it
    if you need the specs for the adjustment here they are, straight out of my haynes manual

    intake= 0.17-0.22 mm (.007-.009 inches)
    exhaust= 0.22-0.27mm (.009-.011 inches)
  • Tatty90EE4Tatty90EE4 Wagonist
    BIOHAZARD wrote:
    with the valves being improperly adjusted could cause the bad compression test. try readjusting them and do the compression test again to see what comes of it
    if you need the specs for the adjustment here they are, straight out of my haynes manual

    intake= 0.17-0.22 mm (.007-.009 inches)
    exhaust= 0.22-0.27mm (.009-.011 inches)

    thanks for those specs. I'm probably going to do this on my wagon. I've been having some ticking sounds from the top end!
  • JakerJaker familEE
    BIOHAZARD wrote:
    with the valves being improperly adjusted could cause the bad compression test. try readjusting them and do the compression test again to see what comes of it
    if you need the specs for the adjustment here they are, straight out of my haynes manual

    intake= 0.17-0.22 mm (.007-.009 inches)
    exhaust= 0.22-0.27mm (.009-.011 inches)

    Those numbers sound a little on the loose side. I'll check my Helms when I get home, but if memory serves me right, you should be shooting for .006" intake and .008" exhaust. I could be wrong though!
  • BIOHAZARDBIOHAZARD Wagonist
    oops... i said haynes manual, silly me i meant my helm manual.
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