Couple of issues with recent swap. FPR??

vtecn8ive

I have a 1990 Civic rt4wd wagon and I had swapped in the d15z1 motor from the 92-95 Civic Vx.

I am not getting any check engine lights, I did everything myself (conversion harness obdo-obd1). This is not even close to being my first swap but these are a few problems I am not too familiar with.

1:
First off is the oil pressure light staying on until for about 5-10 seconds after I have started the car (longer the usual thats for sure). But after I let the car run for a bit it goes away and never comes back. Something that I had caught my eye when I was doing the swap was the accumulation of oil near the oil pump (not fresh oil just old crusty oil thats been there for awhile).

Now before you immediately start saying bearings this and that, when I picked up the motor it didn't come with an oil pressure sensor on the back of the black so I put one in from the d16a6 (or one I had laying around). So maybe its just some of the gasket sealant is partially blocking it (or plumbers tape)??


2:
Second of all when I accelerate it seems to drive fine EXCEPT when I let off the gas (throttle) and it starts decelerating and then try to re-accelerate it will stutter a bit. It lead me to believe the ignition coil was going bad or it needed a tune up.. so I switched them both out, only to go from a major stutter to a minor stutter (helped some but not fully).

Is it possibly the fuel pressure regulator? I am running the stock d16a6 FPR.

3.
Lastly when I shut off the car after driving it for a bit and then try to restart it it (even if the Main Relay clicks correctly) it will start up and then die of slowly unless I give it some gas.

which leads me to think it could possibly be the fpr again.


On another note the fpr worked fine on the d16a6 motor.


And I know my wiring is good, I'm not a newb at wiring.

Thanks,
Shane

Haydz

Would look probably at igniter or something dizzy related for the stuttering issues. The thing on decelleration can sometimes by sticky throttle/cable.

Jaker

Is it possible that your O2 sensor wiring still isn't quite right? What ECU are you using? I've had similar stuttering issues and driveability problems with a lazy or non-functioning O2 sensor in the past.

dc231581

i think you should try another dizzy too

vtecn8ive

Well tomorrow I am suppose to be getting a new dizzy. I think I'll do some troubleshooting on the current dizzy just in case. I actually just picked up a spare 97 Civic Ex dizzy which has the same internals switched out the ignition coil and it helped a bit but still there (however I did do a tune up at the same time so not quite sure which was wrong)

either or I tested out the original ignition coil after I replaced it and it tested good.

So perhaps its the cylinder sensor or ignition module going bad


I'm pretty positive my o2 sensor wiring is solid. I went real slow when doing the conversion harness and double checked everything. I like to get things done right the first time so I always have a tendency to go slow with wiring!

Any suggestions on the oil sensor?

-shane

vtecn8ive

well different dizzy didn't appear to cure the issue . Its just really slight. Like when you decelerate and then try to re-accelerate it hesitates or when you let off and slowly let back on it just seems to stutter a bit.

I'm going to redo the timing belt since its a little off, and then I'll clean out the throttle body are (throttle cable was already cleaned after I did the swap). I MAY end up doing the headgasket I noticed there is a little bit of oil on the back near cylinder one and timing belt cover but I"m 99% sure its the valve cover gasket.

I kind of want to do the head gasket while I have as spare car so I can slightly rebuild the head (new seals, reseat valves) so it'll get the mpg even better. wouldn't mind cleaning out the egr ports either!

quarters

try re-setting the ECU just to be sure. that's the best i can come up with, generally if you don't get a code and you change the dizzy with no success, then i'm lost.

dc231581

what ecu are you running? also isnt that engine economy vtec so only eight valves open when driving and when vtec cracks it opens the other eight?

vtecn8ive

I'll make sure i resetted the ecu. Thought i did, but i'll do it again.

I'm running the 49 state vx ecu. p07.

I believe this motor only has 8 valves total, guess i'll double check when i fix the timing belt.

vtecn8ive

fixed the timing belt.

not the problem. Either clogged fuel filter, bad injector, or ecu jumper harness.

1RMDave

and you are using the wideband vx o2 sensor right?

vtecn8ive

yup using the L1H1, code free.

Haven't had time to mess with the car due to school and girlfriend visiting. But its on my agenda this week.